quikv6

If there's any way to isolate the guppy, and treat with some aquarium salt, that can really help. Perhaps a small plastic tub as a makeshift hospital tank?

Are you sure the tank has filly cycled with 0 Nitrates? Have you ever seen Nitrates?

Absolutely brilliant information. This will be a great resource for us all. Thank you!

Any level of Nitrites greater than zero would be a bit worrisome. Aside from that, I don't think any of the other parameters would indicate any problem. Perhaps all those meds, especially the Maracyn 2 interfered with the biofilter?? I have never had a betta, but have had some fin rot issues. In my case, they were always caused by overfeeding. Good clean water and some aquarium salt did the trick to heal and spark new growth, but it's important to try and pinpoint the problem so It doesn't reoccur. When you mention you change the water once or twice a week, are you talking about a 100% water change each time? That could be very stressful, if so.

That's a great suggestion. I have a nice sized pyrex measuring cup with a handle. I think that may work great, provided the fish are distracted with some food. The young platies can be really quick, so I'd have to sneak up on them, but Id have to do that with the net regardless.

Great advice...thanks to all. I had remembered watching that video in the past, but I don't recall it touching on the multiple fish scenario. I'm really glad that it should be okay to do so. That'll make it a tad easier, although it never seems easy moving fish and tanks around! Thanks again.

Quick question.....Is it safe to net multiple small fish together all at once? I am going to be upgrading tanks, and the new tank (125 gal) will go where the current tank (75 gal) is now. I probably have 70-80 fish that I'll have to net out. Most are juvenile mollies and platies. Netting them individually takes forever, plus I can see it being stressful for the fish. I was thinking of just sticking an algae wafer to the glass and netting a bunch at once during their frenzy. Any thoughts on best approach? Thanks in advance.

Being you have had this tank for 4 years, I am assuming this is not your first cartridge change. If my assumption is correct, and you didn't do anything different this time compared to the previous times, then I think you should look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Water parameters would be a first step. Also, it may be worth it to test your tap water to see if it has changed, as sometimes municipalities change additives, which can have an effect on parameters.

Kamika How about the other parameters, such as Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, GH/KH? Perhaps one of those parameters can give some clues as to what may be the root of the problem.

Sandra, Have you ever seen nitrates in the tank to indicate it has been cycled? I noticed you had 0 nitrates. Perhaps there was an ammonia spike after adding the fish and increasing the bioload of an uncycled tank. Just an idea of a possibility.

What is the GH and PH specifically?

To me, that looks like no nitrates. Perhaps your cycle was lost, but its good that there does not seem to be ammonia or nitrite. As for PH of 8.2, I don't see it in that pic, but I would not try to artificially lower that. I think that will be fine for livebearers. They tend to like a higher PH and harder water. Speaking of which, do you have a way to test the GH? I like the Tetra strips, because they have GH and KH on them. Being livebearers generally thrive in harder water with good mineral content, perhaps your GH is very low, and part of the problem.

In addition to what Colu said, I think the water test kit should be the absolute first thing you do. Perhaps one of the parameters would stand out as a potential problem. Dropsy is more of a symptom of a bigger problem (possibly a bacterial or parasitic infection), so you want to do your best to find and address what that problem could be, to protect the other fish. In the meantime, try to minimize light, and other environmental factors that can increase stress. As for treating the fish with dropsy, that is a tough one. I recently fought that battle, and lost. I did try my absolute best though. I used Furan 2 along with Kanaplex, in addition to Epsom salt in the hospital tank. The fish went 6 days on this treatment. He didn't show improvement, though he didn't get worse, either. At the advice of a forum member, I ordered a med called Ciproflaxin. Within an hour of the first treatment of Cipro, the fish died. It must've been some strong stuff, or perhaps the fish was so weakened from the 6 days of treatment up until that point. I felt terrible, but ultimately I know that I tried my best to fight the good fight, and that gave me some peace of mind. Good luck.

tekjunkie...when you say hardness, I'm guessing you are referring to GH. But it's the low KH that would contribute to PH swings/dropping PH.

Livebearers generally like harder water. If you tested the GH and it was low, that could certainly have been a contributing factor for their fate, unfortunately. Also, like WIll Billy mentioned, low KH can result in PH swings, which could also be a contributing factor.

The Nitrate test is also the same as ammonia (except 10 drops of each instead of 8). Both need to be used together in the same vial. Be sure to vigorously shake bottle #2. It would be helpful to determine if you have some small level of Nitrates in the tank, as that would indicate that it is cycled. Also, in regards to livebearers like Guppies, they tend to thrive in harder water. (Higher GH). GH and KH parameters would also be very helpful. That would be an additional test, not in the API kit, but very worth purchasing. The Tetra strips are great for those.

I lift the airline very slowly with a steady hand. Minimal gunk gets released. For me, the zip lock bag isn't really a necessity. I prefer the bucket method. I do have a related question though: When should the co-op sponge filters be cleaned? I literally never notice any diminution in air flow from them. I have cleaned them, but can't really articulate if it was necessary or not. Is there any harm in just letting them "build-up" if the flow doesn't diminish?

If using baking soda, use it carefully. Test your measurements in a 5 gallon bucket first, to determine what effect X amount of baking soda has on your PH, given 5 gallons of water. Use an accurate measuring spoon. For me, 1/2 teaspoon in 5 gallons brings my PH from 7.0 to approx 7.6-7.8. Your mileage may vary, given your initial water parameters.

I think the salt is a good idea. Most plants can tolerate a little. Erythromycin also should help. Additionally, don't underestimate the importance of good, clean water. Fin rot can be triggered by poor water conditions, which could be the result of overfeeding, poor parameters, etc. It's important to find the root of what triggered the problem in the first place.

I believe Maracyn (not Maracyn 2) may be a more appropriate treatment for the fin rot....in addition to the salt.

I think you should double check the temperature with another thermometer. Also, a bucket wouldn't be ideal to observe the fish under the meds/quarantine...there may be signs of what's actually wrong, but you just can't see them in a colored bucket.

What are your water parameters? Did you completely cycle the tank before adding the fish?

Did you notice anything funny with the water parameters? Usually if a fish is acting a bit off, testing the water would be a primary step to take. What are your water parameters? Also, if you did a complete 100% water change, that could be very stressful on the fish, especially if the parameters of the old water don't match the new ones.

Just a side question Evan....did you have any issues with your cycle? I just started Paracleanse, and am a bit concerned about harming beneficial bacteria. Thanks. I often have plenty of fish with really long feces (livebearers), and I don't think the length is necessarily related to the presence of parasites.

Great info. Thank you Cory and Brandy. The tank is pretty well established. My plan was to do the Trio separately, and do each like suggested for a preventative dose. (One day full treatment, let marinate for 7 days). I was avoiding the trio all at once because there's a good amount of young fry and juveniles in the tank. After the Maracyn, my plan is to go right to the Paracleanse. I also have prazipro on hand as well. Thanks guys!