quikv6
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Everything posted by quikv6
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That PH of 6.4 seems a tad low for livebearers. Is your PH normally at that level? I have found that a PH change during a waterchange can cause mild flashing behavior. Although I don't think this is the case, a drastic change in salinity can affect their behavior. Being you only changed 5 gallons without salt, I don't think that would be an issue. You can try adding a small amount of salt back in (to replace the salt that they were use to, and see if there is any change in behavior. I am assuming you declorinated at the last waterchange. If not, that could cause issues.
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- livebearer
- guppies
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I agree with Hobbit and Colu. You did everything you could've, with the best intentions. Many Bettas that make it to the Pet Store may not make it out, and you gave Fred a home with love and care. If you get the urge to get another, I would go for it....and offer that one a good, loving home as well.
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Hey Stephen, I don't have very much insight to add, but I do own a Seapora 40 long, and it was my favorite looking tank. I also have a Marineland, Aqueon, and TopFin, but the Seapora always seemed to be a bit "cleaner" with greater attention to detail. From the black silicone to the frame and pane fitment, it just looked more professional. I can't speak to the scratch resistance, though. Sorry.
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it could also have an internal parasite. Salt would be a good first start. General Cure would be a good med to treat internal parasites. Also...what are you specific water parameters, including GH/KH/PH?
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A 20 long is a great tank. I understand the urge. I started with a 20 high, with 3 mollies and shortly thereafter added 3 platies. After the first batch of fry...I immediately knew I needed a bigger tank. Then came the 40 long. (Also a great size, that isn't often spoken about) Then came a few more batches of fry, and the 75 gallon tank they are all currently in. Enter the PetSmart Black Friday sale on a 125 combo. It's currently sitting, patiently waiting to be swapped out with the 75. I am dreading the swap, and the work involved, but I know it will be worth it when it's done. Short story: I hear ya!
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I'd also raise the temp permanantely if the betta has been kept at room temp. Just be sure to do it slowly and incrementally.
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Colu knows his stuff for sure, and has offered great advice. I think adding a lesser concentration of salt full time to the tank may be beneficial.. (Instead of a bath.) Going from no salt to 1 TBSP/gallon in a bath can really be shocking. I think 1 TBSP per 5 gallons would be okay for the tank for the time being. You can still do the bath at a slightly higher concentration...but I think moving and cathing the fish can ultimately result in more stress for it.
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I think that is a solid plan. For me, I knew I wanted the mollies, so I made the choice to alter the water pretty shortly after getting them. I should add....out of the tap, I had lower PH/KH as well, so their initial lethargy could've been a combination of that too. (I altered that w/ a bit of baking soda and crushed coral.) It was only then that I really saw the thriving behavior that I was missing. Best of luck...sounds like you'll have a great tank. Keep us posted!
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If I may add....I couldn't be happier with choosing mollies. It's a great choice, and they have A TON of personality. What I have noticed it that there are more personal characteristics to them, as opposed to the platies, which seem to have more broad species characteristics. Mollies are definitely fun, and quite goofy at times....which is even more fun. 🙂
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When I was starting up my tank, I chose mollies to be my first fish of choice. I have soft water (roughly 40-50 ppm GH), but made the mistake of not knowing that at the time. Rookie mistake. Did they survive....yes. Were they happy....I don't think so. I didn't really fully recognize the difference until I doctored my water a bit, with Wondershell and Replenish/Equilibrium. Once I did that, they went from a bit of the shimmies and overall lethargic behavior, to zipping around the tank, mating, and overall just being way more active and playful. Right now I boost my GH up to around 200ppm, and the 75 gallon tank will of Mollies and Platies seem to really appreciate that. Just my .02. I really wanted the fish to thrive, and give them as close to a preferable environment as I could. In return, they really seemed to thrive, which is rewarding, and makes for more enjoyment.
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Hey Laritheloud, It can definitely be overwhelming and discouraging when a fish gets ill, especially for someone who is brand new to the hobby. Try not to get discouraged. Every experience, good or bad, is something you can learn from, ultimately making you a better fishkeeper in the future. And that will allow for even more enjoyment in the future! Colu is very helpful here, and I would try to take his advice. Granted you have a planted tank, so even though that doesn't rule out a little salt, it may rule out an amount that would cure the fungus. While a hospital tank may be "ideal", you may be able to work around it. (Though I would add a minimal amount of salt to the tank regardless...perhaps 1 teaspoon per/5 gallons). You can try salt baths for 15-20 minutes at a time. I have had luck with a very juvenile molly who had a some small cottony growths on his head. I took a cup of tank water, added a small amount of salt (1/2 tsp, approx), and also very little bit of API fungus cure to the cup. (It'll turn the water green...totally normal). Then I let the molly swim in it for around 20 mins, a few times daily. Thankfully, it seemed to work after a few days. He also has a small amount of salt in his tank full-time. If you go the above route, just be sure to monitor the fish in the salt the whole time. Too much can have a pretty instant adverse reaction, in which case you would put him back in the tank immediately. Start with a very small amount. You end up developing a feel for how much to use. Good luck!
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Aquarium salt. I don't think the tank size is a factor, but I think a PH crash may have been the source of stress. I would focus on rectifying the cause of the 0 KH/PH crash, along with adding aquarium salt.
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Salt would be a good option, sooner than later. In addition to clean, clean water.
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My experience with dropsy is very limited (and unfortunately unsuccessful), but I do remember using a combo of Furan 2 and Kanaplex. I also used Epsom salt full time in a hospital tank, rather than do the baths. If your Betta is eating, I believe medicated food may be a good route to take as well. I think I used Seachem Focus to bind meds (Either Metroplex or Kanaplex) to the food. In my case, I believe I did 6-7 days of treatment total. The fish did not get better, but did not at all get worse either. He also kept his appetite throughout. I received some advice to try a med called Ciproflaxin. I figured Dropsy was an "all in" type treatment, so I ordered it. It came the next day. and within 30 minutes of the first treatment of Cipro, the fish passed. Perhaps the dose was too strong, or perhaps it was just too much after the previous 7 days of treatment. I ultimately came to terms with the fact that I gave it my best shot. Leo is beautiful, and I hope he pulls through.
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I believe the issue wasn't the PH per se, but the fact that there was 0 KH, and the appearance that the PH has dropped measurably, and possibly continuing to drop, as a result.
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Hey Sandra....I am someone who artificially buffers soft water for the livebearers I have. I have very low KH and GH out of the tap, with a 6.8 PH, roughly. I do use wondershells as well. In my limited experience, they really don't seem to boost KH at all, though they do boost my GH. I don't think they would help too much for you specifically, as you said you already have harder water. It sounds like the small waterchanges would be a solution to bring back some KH. (PH should follow.) The baking soda method is what I use, and that would work too. If you are going to go that route, please be cautious, as mentioned above....especially since you are working with a very small amount of water to begin with. Don't add it directly to the tank, until you see what a given amount (say, 1/8th of a teaspoon) does to a gallon of tap water. (Or better yet...a gallon removed from your tank).
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Yes...salt, especially if you have no other options. I would continue with the Erythromycin, as sometimes that can take some time to see a rebound.
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Thanks Dwayne...I've tried that, with some success, but ultimately the other fish are just much faster, and the molly mentioned ends up getting wrapped up in frenzy somehow. The platys can fly around the tank at lightning speed. I appreciate it, though.
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So I have a Balloon Molly that seems to be aging. I've had her a year, and she was a fully grown adult fish when I got her. In the last 3 months, she has gradually aged, for lack of a better term. She doesn't swim as fast, has lost some color, and gets out-competed for food, and sometimes picked on and pushed away. When she does grab a bite, she isn't nearly as voracious as she was. She has lost quite a bit of size. Being it happened gradually, I didn't really notice, but now looking at older pictures, it is quite evident. Short of a "retirement" tank, is there anything I can do to help? I have been trying to load up brine shrimp/etc in a pipette, and shoot it to her specifically. It works, but it also causes the other 60-70 Mollies and Platys to dart right towards her in a feeding frenzy. I thought about putting her in a breeding box while feeding, but worry that might stress her even more. I just want her to be more comfortable and stress-free, but don't know what to do, if anything. All advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Livebearers should certainly like the parameters out of your tap as-is. I think the advice above is great...bring them back slowly to your tap water with small, frequent water changes. Dechlorinate, of course.
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Okay...being you have mollies and other livebearers, I am a tad concerned from the test strip. It looks like you have very low PH, and 0 KH, which may indicate a PH crash. The stress from that could definitely spark an outbreak of something else. I think crushed coral would really benefit your tank. It should raise the KH some, and prevent a PH crash. It should also slightly raise the PH to a range that the mollies would prefer.
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Thanks. I failed to mention that he's in with some salt, as he's always been. I generally use a teaspoon per 5 gallons, though I moved him to a grow-out tank, which is closer to a tablespoon per 5 gallons. He can swim fine.....he just doesn't. The lack of interest in food is really most worrisome. Something's wrong...just have no idea what.
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I have a platy who is about 7 months old, and acting very strange. He either sits on the bottom gravel, or up top at water line, and really doesn't swim much at all, though he certainly can. I know something is wrong because he isn't interested in food. But aside from the behavior, there are no visible signs to point me toward a problem. The platy has good color, fins are upright and not clamped, and I see no signs of fungal/bacterial issues. Visually, he looks great. No flashing either. Normally, I'd say possibly parasitic, but his community tank has been through 2 precautionary Paracleanse treatments within the last month or two. It has also been through a Maracyn treatment. He was the only fish acting this way in the tank, and there's probably 40-50 other platys. There have been no outside fish added to the tank...all were born in the tank. **Parameters: Ammonia - 0, Nitrite - 0, Nitrate 15-25, GH - 200, KH - 100, PH - 7.6-7.8 Any ideas? I'll try to upload a picture...but visually, I am clueless, as he looks great. Thanks in advance.
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PH/GH issues can cause flashing. Determining parameters can be a necessary step 1.
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I had a fish with a prolapse before. I did 4 baths a day, for 15 minutes each, with Epsom salt. (Specifically Epsom salt). Within a few days, the prolapse was reabsorbed into the body and the fish was fine. I also fasted the fish during that period. Good luck, and keep us posted.
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