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Dr.rex

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About Dr.rex

  • Birthday 09/21/1997

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  1. Like I said I'm using full size water lettuce with very hard water, so this may be very different in another glass box, for this tank at least, that's what I've noticed they like to feed on the most. witch to spark even more discussion I am currently running research on using a fish tank as a "water reservoir" of some sort in cultivating adult stuff, cuz those type of plants and other terrestrial plants like pothos tend to feed so much more the normal aquatic plants. I've done one round and I have a buddy that's done it his whole life and so far I think everyone everywhere should be using waste aquarium water to water everything regardless of what plants they are, its seriously some magical stuff.
  2. Plants typically consume nitrates first then ammonia and then nitrides, there's a whole host of micro nutrients in their but they just prefer the easy to use nutrients first hence why I have zero nitrates then low ammonia and then quite high nitrites at least my water lettuce which is a very heavy water column feeder doesn't really like to suck out nitrites, but it basically strips the water of all the nitrates and ammonia, which I'm guessing it's causing a bacterial imbalance in my bio filter of some kind, because as this blooming and crashing cycle is going on I'm now staying at or near zero nitrates and lil ammonia even with the amount I'm feeding, but atm I'm having to change water for nitrites more then anything witch ain't a bad thing because I'm out to rebreed the 70s guppies you can't kill, hopefully
  3. See I have been very sketchy of using off label fertilizers because this is a breeding tank, but if it's safe I'm not opposed to it it's just I don't know enough to really try any of that, I used Miracle-Gro tomato fertilizer on a 10 gallon tank, long ago, I put a teaspoon in with no fish and no plants and let it sit just to see what it would do and it became so green I couldn't shine a spotlight through it legit million candle spotlight wouldn't go through this 10 gallon tank it was that green, pic of the same tank 6 months later after adding 3 silver mollies just to see if anything would live in it, cuz this was my first green water ever and didn't know what it was.
  4. Oh guess I should add that I'm feeding eight tablespoons of prepared repache food and there are okay tablespoon, not quite a full one and there's a feeding dish in back y'all can't really see that I drop it in
  5. Okay y'all, I know I'm over feeding and yes all the food is being consumed fully, I have checked this multiple times thinking that the foods the issue, I use aquarium co-op ammonia and multi test strips so I trust um and use them as directed, as fair as light levels, I'm using full size not dwarf water lettuce with duckweed that grows in between, at the surface, I would say extreme light, under surface, I would say low to very low, I realize this issue can very easily be solved by removing plants frequently and reducing feeding while halfing the light, I'm looking for out of the box ideas here, this is a breeding tank for guppies, plecos and mystery snails, if I'm having serious overgrowth and not able to literally put enough food in the tank to sustain it and having a major die back which throws my water to the moon causing another Bloom cycle, instead of doing the normal remove, reduce, reassess. What could I add, what could I change, what would it do, i love my glass boxes because each one's its own experiment, come on dig your brains y'all, out of the box wacky ideas, what would possibly work in this scenario and there are no wrong answers here
  6. So idk much about lighting, but I got my 55gl running 2 25$ shop lights, (50w 6k lumen, color 5k, each) water Is 79°, A 0, ni 0, na 0, gh 300+ kh 40-0 pH 7.8-8.2, I'm having the issue of the water being to clean, like no amount I feed will shift the water and my plants (water lettuce and duckweed) are going the cycle of massive growth in couple days then massive die off just as fast, blasting my water to, A 1, ni 4, na 0, then swinging it back to 0,0,0 in a 6-8 day cycle, is there any way to stabilize this cycle, cuz I'm feeding 4 tbl spoons of repashy community Plus twice daily and it's just barley keeping it stable but it keeps going out of whack, anyone know what to do or any ideas, no easy green but I am using easy carbon 6 pump per day
  7. Funny thing is that green picture is after 4days of complete back out, and a 8w uv had lil effect during the 4 days as well, that's kind of the reason I'm on here asking nothing seems to work atm, and because my flag fish are breeding I don't want to contaminate their food chain since they're primarily algae eaters, but I would also like to see my fish lol
  8. Agreed, I have a 55gl runing at 82° a0 ni0 na 50-100 pH 7.6ish, super heavy floating plant stock,(water lettuce and duckweed running under 2 50w shop lights), I've got stupid hard water with no buffer so I use aragonite and they really do seem to prefer a tank with it in it to not, and they kind of like heat when they breed 78°-84° but other than that that's the only two things I found outside of what he said, well I feed the hakari fancy guppy food mainly with repashy community plus every other day that may increase there cycle, but mine tend to give birth to about 30 to 45 fry every 22ish days, witch about oh about 30% ish live atm, heavy on the ish, too many to actually count anymore
  9. Astronomical Sunrise to sunset for my area, so about 6am - 8:30ish atm, all my tanks run them same light schedule
  10. So this 20L is unplanted ish, heavily planted with sculpted hair algae, water is 72° A 0 Ni 0 NA 0 gh 300+ kh 240, stock is 2 breeding American flag fish, 36 sunset sword tail fry and snails (mts,rams,pond) with a couple of shrimp mixed in, my question is, what can I treat with so I can at least see them without putting any chemicals in there because I'd like to avoid any possible contamination of their diet, pics are before and after green, Amazon sword has since been moved
  11. Okay this is like my 8 or 9th Time trying to hatch these, I have about five pairs and it's either the eggs drop off the walls and into the tank or they do this or nothing at all, am I missing something here because I've tried multiple different tanks, multiple setups and for some reason I just can't do it
  12. I'm experimenting with undergravel filters and the one thing I do know, get you a good air stone, cuz I've tried so many and the ones that come with it are junk, but in personal experience so far, run two never clog air stones on fine bubbles with a 10 or 20gl air pump running each stone, mine is covered in aragonite with a 60 gallon air pump, "2 outlets spilt into 4" running 2 10gal under gravels. Pic of early setup, 1 air stone running off a single 10 gal air pump and stock air stone, worked okay, but never clogs running fine bubbles with alot of air works so much better, the flow starts resembling hang on The backs then
  13. I've never encountered snails getting like fungus but when it comes to their shells if they have shell erosion they will not repair it you can only stop the damage and feed them good food and what shell they grow will be good but the shell that's already grown we'll stay bad sadly, my personal advice, keep your water at, temp 80ish, pH 7.6ish, gh as high as you can keep it "use Wonder shells", kh above 40ish, 120-150 is better, A 0, Ni 0, NA 50 or less, and make sure they have algae preferably Green spot algae but algae wafers or rapashi foods and etc will all work nicely, so far that set up did not repair the damage that was done but they're perfectly happy for over a year now, granted they have a line in their shell from when they came into my care but all the shell they've grown since is nice
  14. I agree, looks like a Malaysian trumpet snail with a pretty pattern, picture of confirmed Malaysian trumpets for comparison, but I'm 95% sure that's a Malaysian trumpet snail of some kind
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