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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Marks shrimp tanks is a really good resource for shrimp care. Essentially, you want an active substrate. Aqua soils is what you're looking for. I would suggest contrasoil or something like Amazonia. Fluval stratum should work as well but is very light and was not my favorite choice. That is the job of the active substrate. It absorbs minerals. You can also run an off-gas test to try to verify what your PH is after 24 hours and the water has stabilized. (Just run it in a container with an air stone then test) As a final option, seachem makes a product called alkaline buffer. Second to that botanicals and peat moss balls are available.
  2. Likely air trapped. I had similar issues with other pumps in that style. Try running it without anything attached, just submerged and rotate it around to purge air.
  3. They spit food out normally. It's their way of chewing. You can use repashy powder (just use it like any powder food) as well as something like sera micron. All of those should work fine.
  4. Yeah this was another reason I am deciding to just take it back, I'd have to spend more money just to get it to hopefully not be too strong in the tank. Once my friend said she had a filter I could borrow for a day or two it gave me more wiggle room. I was seriously not prepared for how giant this fx4 is!!! They have the same spraybar kit for the x07 series, just a heads up if you decide to try it out. The FX series is definitely gigantic and I am not a huge fan of the tray design. 😞 Hopefully the 07 it works well for you and the tank is doing good!
  5. Just a note of caution. I had my rams at the same temp and it froze on me. After 2 days of very low activity he passed. If you see the ram acting really strange and not active I would try to move em to a warmer setup. Most or all of the other fish won't have any issues.
  6. Out of curiosity, what temp is the tank at?
  7. Welcome to the forums! Bentley Pascoe is a huge fan of the BBQ method with CO2. Low and slow... He has a few videos on the topic as well as one specifically about setting up the ACO regulator. It's got a little bit more detail and might give you the answers to a few questions. Green Aqua, Jurijs Jutjajevs, and George Farmer also would be good resources to check into. That being said, lets dive in! 1. When I went off CO2 all of my plants crashed on me. It wasn't easy. The more you add and if you have an underlying imbalance issue, then it might result in similar circumstances. Ultimately, it shouldn't crash the tank, but in my experience, I had a very difficult time dialing the plants back into and growing them normally. 2. Yes there definitely is. I can't say what the light % should be because it's all going to be based on plant selection, planting location, and what those variables dictate. I would encourage you to not be afraid of trimming. That's just future plant sales 🙂 . If you do have a plant that is "too crazy" you can always sub it out for something that doesn't grow as crazy. I had an issue with Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus because it grows so fast and is a gigantic plant compared to others. It happens....
  8. My gut tells me it's tied to the overall max size of the fish.
  9. @Goldie Blue There is an FX spraybar kit for that filter. Start there.... This will tame the output a little bit and give you much better circulation across the 55G. Let me break it down... For me I am often in the range of 6-10x turnover. Pump rating is 450 GPH and as @Colu mentioned you can lower the flow. This is on the fluval website, but should be detailed in the manual. 450GPH ---> 8x turnover. I don't think it will be too strong. Especially with the distributed output of the spraybar. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Aquarium-Filter-Aeration-Accessory/dp/B09WJGBKBY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fx+spray+bar+kit&qid=1685427286&sr=8-1 Marineland or the ACO Prefilters would be my choice. Below I will link the larger of the two Marineland ones. Just let me know the DIA of the tube you need it for and I can verify it'll work for you. https://www.amazon.com/MarineLand-PGUIN-Foam-Filter-Model/dp/B07ZV64V5R/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=marineland+prefilter&qid=1685427412&sprefix=marineland+prefil%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-1
  10. Ah ok. That's unfortunate you've been having issues with the group. Hopefully someone can chime in with a better idea of what we're looking at. Not being fuzzy would indicate treating for a bacterial issue. Salt and maracyn would be the place to start there. Given the plants in the tank, it's best to move the fish to QT as well. It would be advantageous to treat both with the med and salt.
  11. Do you have a QT tub or tank to move this fish to? Is it swimming normally?
  12. This is my setup, also a 29G. I opt for very high oxygenation. Shrimp are a river species and do well in similar situations as white clouds, Cyprinidae species, and cooler water species. The cooler the water, the more it can hold oxygenation. I keep my tanks, optimally when it isn't summer, at 72-74 degrees. 2 large sponge filters, one extra air stone just because the pump I have on the tank is very strong. Just give it time. It's likely something that will clear up. If you don't have it clear up any time soon, my suggestion would be to increase filtration, specifically your biological (i.e. ceramic) media. You have rocks in the tank already, so I would think you're fine there. Given that the ACO filters are very course sponge does explain why it is taking a little bit for the water to clarify. With water changes as well it will clear up. I have seachem clarity as a cloudiness tool, but either way it should clear up in time. The clarity product requires fine filtration like polyfilter to work properly for cloudy water. Also, a GH test kit, liquid, is a very useful tool for shrimp keeping. Keep an eye on where you're at. It's something I specifically had some deaths due to the GH getting slightly low on me.
  13. Best of luck with it. I just went through moving a bunch of tanks too. 🙂
  14. I'm very sorry for your loss. Hoping things can recover for you.
  15. The last fish I had with a fin issue took about 2 weeks to really recover. I can't say anything specific, but it's something you'd monitor. I wouldn't be surprised to give the fish 4-6 weeks to recover, personally.
  16. It simply means that if it gets wet it will deteriorate very, very quickly. It's a very absorbent material. I'm sure there are some engineering tolerances there in that value. I can't speak to what that actual value is. Simply put, I would not be surprised to see a failure over time with that setup. How long? I have no clue. I was referring to move the desk (relocate it) so you have room for a rack or dual stand on the wall.
  17. Not impossible. Definitely complex. So you want a 24/7-365 mode. 😂
  18. Best I could do. This is the TopFin one and what the center brace looks like.
  19. Feel better, I hope everything is ok.
  20. ORD That's really cool. It's always so nice to see native habitat and to see the fish from those habitats. The setup looks great!
  21. So a funny thing happened today..... It's magnetic. So I was right way back when on my first use. It is powder coated steel!! I had to laugh when the magfloat stuck to it. I apologize for all of the confusion and the back and forth. Can confirm, 10000000% sure, it's metal and steel rod.
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