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Found 7 results

  1. I’ve got a new fish coming, and I just now learned the fish may* be coming from a 6.5 pH, and my tap water is a 7.5. The fish is already in transit. Any advice? *per strips. Liquid test will be done on source water tomorrow to confirm. My tank: Amm 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 5 PH 7.5 gH 150 kH 180
  2. 1. Cory mention a certain substrate in a recent YouTube Video and I just caught part of it so am not sure what he said. He was talking about breeding Crystals and I have an interest in doing that so I would like to know what he used to be successful. 2. My RO water also come out as 7.0 with a TDS of 0 and I know the PH is high for Crystals but I dislike using API PH down as it uses Sulphuric Acid to accomplish it. I just find it creepy to use Sulphuric Acid for anything let alone what animals will swim in. Does anyone use anything else to lower their PH? If so can you make suggestions.
  3. I use lake water for my fish tank. There is a lot of lime stone in them there hills in the finger lakes, so the PH if up in the ideal for Marine water, not fresh water. I see a lot of product for raising PH. What do you recommend for lowering PH? I also started with a bare bottom tank and sponge filters that were in use. I figure between the used sponge filters and the natural bacteria in the lake water, the tank would cycle quickly, no such luck. I am doing a lot of water changes, cutting the fish population in half, and adding "Fritz Aquatics 80210 FritzZyme 7 Nitrifying Bacteria for Fresh Water Aquariums" and wonder if I should also add "API AMMO-LOCK Ammonia detoxifier" at the same time?
  4. Hello, I live in the Midwest and my water is more alkaline. I have plants, American cichlids, and angel fish in my 125 gallon. Ph is normally around 8.2. I desperately want it at a 7.8 to create a thriving environment for fish and plants. I used the lower ph chemical first and it worked for 24 hrs or less. Did some more research and tried a big mesh bag of peat granules in my canister filter. That didn’t do the trick so I bought large catappa almond leaves crumbled them in a mesh bag and put in canister with peat. So, it works well but the tannin colored water is not my favorite look for my tank. I was wondering if I used a product like carbon or clearmax to clear up the tank and remove the tannins, will I also be taking away the ph lowering benefits of these products? Is it the tannins themselves that lower ph? Smart ones, please help.
  5. I'm in the Seattle area and have very soft water. I'm using an aquasoil substrate with some driftwood in the hardscape. My pH is has been running 5.5 -6.0. I have a dKH of 2. My ammonia/ammonium is stuck around 3 ppm. Will these conditions make the cycle time take even longer?
  6. I've generally tried to do as much as I can in tap water to avoid the extra maintenance and difficulties that can come with trying to 'chase pH', and have had relative success despite liquid rock coming out of my tap (pH 8.7 after 24 hrs, GH and KH 20). I'd really like to venture out into some species that require softer, more acidic water though, especially for breeding. I've been experimenting in empty tanks and seem to be able to achieve my target values when first dosing, but can't keep those values stable. My approach so far has been: Create 0 TDS water with an RODI system. Add Alkaline buffer to reach target KH. Add Acid buffer to reach target pH. Add Equilibrium to reach target GH. For my initial test, I targeted pH of 7.0, GH and KH of 5-6. On day 0 (i.e. shortly after mixing), my tests showed that I'd hit each target within the accuracy of the test. I continued testing pH on subsequent days though and saw a steady rise for about a week before finally stabilizing at ~8.2. This is a new tank with literally nothing in it except RODI water with the above additives. Is gas exchange somehow causing that significant of a shift? Is there some latent interaction with the buffers, or some other cause I'm overlooking? In recommendations for how to edit my process so the resultant water has a more stable pH? I'm not as concerned with the exact number as long as it's stable and somewhere in the slightly acidic to neutral range (maybe 6.2-7.2).
  7. Hi everyone! Love the channel and have been following AC and Corey for the past year. I've tried googling this issue and it seems to be a strange one? My tap water has a pH over 8 (tested with API pH dropper test, but not with the higher pH tests), but my GH is 6 dGH (KH is 4 dKH). My googled research tells me my GH is too high and my pH is too low for a planted dwarf puffer tank. My setup: Tall 16 gallon, Aquaclear 20 hang-on-back filter, submersible heater, 2 air stones (1 small and 1 med) Fluval stratum with Fluval root tabs Plants: anubias nana, bacopa caroliniana, carpet tiny clovers Plants/hang-on-back filter/substrate migrated from a 5 gallon, the 5 gallon had been up and running for 7 months before migration. (added extra substrate, pogos, echinodorus parviflorus, buce thea red, ludwigia red hybrid) Added a new medium-size rock, a medium-size piece of driftwood and a smattering of almond catappa leaves. The plants have been continuously shrinking and melting despite having Fluval stratum with Fluval root tabs. My 5 gallon had an algae problem but the 16 gallon seems better so far. I keep my tank lights on for 8 hours per day, while also getting sunlight during the day from a west/south facing window about 10 ft away. The only plants that are thriving are my tiny clovers, I started them from seed while setting up the 16 gallon. My dwarf puffer died the day before I was going to transfer her to the new tank (RIP Booger), most likely due to parasites (she was doing fine for the first 5 months, but suddenly took a turn and got very skinny despite being fed until full once a day. I live in Canada so I couldn't get Paracleanse in time). My snails' shells are thin and sad and I had 4 out of 7 pumpkin shrimp die in a week. TLDR; my tank is out of whack and my dwarf puffer died and my plants are melting! Help! - Hillary
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