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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Just for sanity check. Verify temp.
  2. nabokovfan87
    i want to, not throwing shade but spooky (my ram) is better than snoopy im not breaking the tie, because its the final round It appears that question was just answered. 😂 Alright we need ONE VOTE.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Alright, so 40G tank, you'd want an AC70 size filter. Basically what you could be experiencing is just the undersized pump. There is a few things going on and there's some questions still. It seems like a fluval/aqua clear filter and those are notorious for the pumps not starting up right. Please just verify the waterfall is working and the impeller in the pump is working. Sometimes people have to turn into and use a small poker to get it to start to spin. Don't damage the pump of course just something to start it spinning if it isn't. Second, the circulation fan placement. Please provide some more photos or maybe video of the situation so we can visually see the strength of each. Here is a quick video of another thing to check.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Safe travels, have fun!
  5. nabokovfan87
    What is the size of the tank? The reason I ask is just because they might be sitting in certain flow spots while they acclimate or do shrimpy things. Here's one of mine today cleaning itself to get ready for eggs. They should acclimate in about a week or two. Usually it's a few days for them until you see them really get active. Also, keep in mind that a lot of shrimp are very active at night and will be at other spots of the tank once they feel safe in the lower light conditions. If you still have any concerns in a week or two please feel free to reach out. Awesome choice, you'll love the amanos!
  6. nabokovfan87
    Awesome, this will be a fun one to solve! Can you please share what equipment is on the tank so I can get a better idea of how to help with the setup. What filters? What air pump? What size tank is this?
  7. nabokovfan87
    Can you post a photo?
  8. nabokovfan87
    If you can fit a HOB I usually manage to get it on there. I use the front glass to measure then get it on there as best I can. It works! But yeah, there's a few ways to solve the puzzle, as always 🙂 .
  9. nabokovfan87
    I wanted to share this as a means of looking at how to setup your light. The above photo shows a bit of the difference and the layout when it comes to the LED channels on this light. You can see the pink, blue, and warm white channels pretty easily. There are also Cool blue and pure white LEDs. When it comes to the spectrum of the light we have the following chart. We have a very strong spike at the 450nm spectrum, but we do see a generally good spread across all of the color ranges. Pushing red on this light (pinks and reds) would help to increase the 680nm range and above. The goal being to understand what colors and channels the plants you have want, to turn those to the appropriate levels, and to set correctly the channels that might not be contributing as much, causing algae growth as an example. This is where the amount of LEDs on the light comes into play. How many LEDs are there on each channel? When we set pure white LEDs to 75%, how much of this is the % of the total par? This is something we saw in Cory's videos where he turned the par meter on for each channel. It's an interesting topic and it's something to keep in mind when you are trying to optimize a certain color range for your tank. Maybe you're trying to highlight the red for a specific fish/plant, or perhaps you're wanting to highlight cooler hues. That is entirely a topic in itself. What I wanted to share the image for above was simply to put into perspective the layout of the color channels. Of course the channel with the most LEDs will be the pure white. On the 48" light we have the following breadown of LEDs. Pure white: 182 LEDs (54.2%) Warm white: 70 LEDs (20.8%) Cool white: 28 LEDs (8.3%) Pink: 14 LEDs (4.2%) Blue: 42 LEDs (12.5%) We do see this on the light itself as well. Blue: Pink: Cool White: Warm White: Pure White: Secondly, here is an older chart from fluval talking about each channel individually on an older light advertisement. Essentially, you might be trying to highlight a certain channel, but based on the setup of that channel it's prudent to be aware with how many LEDs are involved and the strength of those LEDs to impact your plants. This may also shed light into some setups and how different settings impact algae growth.
  10. nabokovfan87
    I use Velimax window tint. Comes in a roll and you just need to measure the height of the glass to find the size you need, They offer a variety of styles. The one I use has a 100% darkness and works very well. https://www.amazon.com/Velimax-Blackout-Stickers-Blocking-Darkening/dp/B073TVRQ5D
  11. nabokovfan87
    This one was recommended on the forums to me elsewhere. Just wanted to share it as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083Q7YRBM/ref=twister_B08YP92RF4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
  12. nabokovfan87
    This tank has been moved to the 75G which is now moving to this jornal. A massive thank you to everyone who followed along and helped me along the way. I genuinely appreciate it, learned a lot, and I'm very thankful for that journey we took.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Grace the shark, sharkie, as she is affectionately called is my Red-Tailed Black Shark (sharkminnow to be precise). I couldn't tell you how long she's been cruising around in my tanks, but she is indeed part of the family as it were. She sticks her head out to say hello when I check on her each morning. She is protective of her fry, well her panda and corydoras pals. She likes cover, she enjoys caves, but hopefully she is happy with my efforts right now. I've spent a lot of time interacting with her, the family has, and it's one of the most cherished fish I own. Expected lifespan is 6-10 years and I do think we are on the other side of 6 right now. She's older now and I do want her to be comfortable and to have a setup where she isn't stressed in the slightest. The entire reason for the tank to be purchased was for her. She was in it for a few years prior to the move, but it's been sitting in the hallway for a little while. Thankfully it is indeed back up and running. This was years ago... I had picked out a nice piece of wood, ordered it and waited excitedly for it to arrive. The box never showed up, USPS lost it. Around here it is something that happens too often. The owner sent out a replacement, which wasn't what I had picked out, but I was really happy with the results. That initial piece of wood, years ago, was purchased with the intent to go into this tank in some form as we have the setup below. Being able to put that piece into place, to see how it looks and play around with the orientation a little bit has been something I have waited for. I do with it had a bit of a cave for her. Some more Seiryu stone or something that she can use as a tunnel. I am waiting on some plants to make it and I'm really hoping that I can get them to grow! I am planning to cover some walls on the tank with more of this moss and I do plan to get some of my slower growing plants going as well that are in tanks elsewhere. There are some plants to improve things for her, but.... I am basically working with limited/no budget for this. As such, there are some breeding projects in the works. Black Schultzei Corydoras and the Neocaridina shrimp being the big two. Plants being the third. The goal of getting things going happened in the prior tank. First, get the corydoras to spawn and learn how to get them to spawn. Second being, getting plants to grow again and feeling a bit more confident in working with plants. I learned a lot in that ~2 years with the tank and it's been the type of experience where it's been compounded by meeting much smarter hobbyists here on the forums who can offer their insight. I hope by the end of this journal I have a tank I am satisfied with. That's the mission statement here. Below I'll attach some shots from the tank and things that caught my eye today trying to get a tank shot. I find myself always admiring these little things. Stuck staring and admiring the beauty when they do find their way into my perspective. For @A3M0N here is the revised / updated spraybar install. One full pipe length, one marineland prefilter (cut to size) and one 'typical' pumphead shooting across the length of the tank. Let's get to it..... Edit: Previous Journal
  14. nabokovfan87
    This is a terrific video.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Yes, I had a pretty similar experience. Those things being +/- 2 degrees is pretty normal. That being said, I had one peg on and I highly recommend using a controller if you can find one for that specific heater in question. Alright, as far as what's going on, let me break things down for you. 1. you need to have good circulation to keep them from overheating and damaging themselves. Place it near flow and try to keep it as vertical as you can. In my 75 I tend to run 2 HoBs and 2 heaters. Heater goes right next to the input and right under the HoB itself. 2. Calibrating a high wattage heater in a lower wattage volume won't work as well as you thing, but it's a good idea. For the heater required on a 75G volume I would imagine you're in the 200W+ range and I wouldn't put that in something smaller than a 40B tank. 3. Thankfully the heaters are a breeze to calibrate, but you do need to follow a few steps and keep an eye on it from cooking the tank. A. Turn the heater on to the desired temp in the tank you want to use it in. B. Place it so the flow works to the advantage of the heater C. Test the temperature of the water every 30 minutes with a thermometer, preferably 2 different ones. This gives you a value to base your heater on. D. Once the heat has "settled" and is no longer trying to heat the tank, record that temperature. E. Set the offset on the heater so that you can adjust the internal thermistor up / down the degrees you need to. This is a red sliding dial on the top of the heater itself.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I found this. Very experienced user of UGFs and he discusses his methods for cleaning and care. Nice video!
  17. nabokovfan87
    Red gills, stress signs like gasping, something like otos, plecos, loaches you'll see it on them first because they are against the glass normally. This is a super fun look at just how much water height impacts your tank. More movement, surface exchange = more oxygenation for the tank.
  18. nabokovfan87
    The end of this video is also a good visual to show you what's going on underneath the plates. That "gunk" is basically going to go everywhere and having a mechanical filtration method would help to resolve some of the issues you're experiencing.
  19. nabokovfan87
    What an adorable little loach. That face!
  20. nabokovfan87
    I don't think there is sand involved here, but I very well could have missed that in the above. I think the gravel is dirty, that particulate (or air... microbubbles) from the junk in the pumps isn't allowed to be cleaned. Adding a prefilter gives you some form of mechanical filtration, it can be done on UGFs. Second to that, maintain the substrate and the filtration (including pumps) as a whole to allow them to function as you desire. An UGF is NOT a "set it and forget it" system. You still need to do maintenance. Having the pump on the system (two of them) turns the volume to 11 so to speak. Meaning, it's much easier, more critical, for that maintenance to happen.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Very beautiful background, what a noble pup!
  22. nabokovfan87
    How are you gonna NOT choose Snoopy. LOL. RAMs for the win!
  23. nabokovfan87
    What you need is called crushed coral. Your KH is 0. Which affects / causes the PH to be lower. This is bad for shrimp / snails when it gets too low. It leads to erosion because there's not enough calcium in the water for them. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh
  24. nabokovfan87
    you don't need to feed a fish every day. Having some days off is actually healthy and helps the fish to expel any waste that might be causing discomfort. For a short trip 2-3 days, not really that big of an issue. Feed the fish when you go, when you get back home. You would always want to run the equipment (heater, filter, air pump, lights) as normal. The light is for the plants and for the fish behavior. The filter and heat is your life support to keep the fish alive and reduce stress. Correct! If you don't have a timer to control the on/off on the light, highly recommended to purchase one, but do leave the lights off in that case.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Definitely slows flow and can spread some contaminants. For me it's that algae. This is one of the over the counter products they have for it. It's pretty common once a year or so to do it for canisters. STOOL! 🙂 I can't imagine doing any work on a tank without my 2-step.
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