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  1. Hello. I’m looking for some suggestions for lights for my 29 gallon. It’s heavenly planted and I’m currently using the aqueon hood fluorescent bulb. Seems to work just fine but it’s a pain to work with since I have to take the light off to work in the tank and where I have the tank is not very well lit. I’m looking for something full spectrum that offers lighting cycles as I go out f town a lot for work. The stingray doesn’t seem strong enough and I’ve heard to many bad things about the fluval one coop sells because of the app being garbage. I’ve considered a timer plug but I have everything plugged into a surge protector so the spacing would suck and I still want a light I can leave on my tank when I take the lid off due to poor lighting in the area. Plants Frog bit x12 Red root floater x 6 Anubius x10 Lobelia Cardinalis x3 Narrow leaf Chain Sword x2 Spiralis x2 Java moss x2 Anacharis x2 Normal Amazon Sword Flame Amazon Sword Red Melon Sword Bronze Wendtii Green Wendtii Red Wendtii Banana plant Duck weed Fish Cardinal Tetras x14 Harlequin Rasbora x5 Pygmy Corries x8 Khuli loaches x6 Betta Snails
  2. Im having a lighting debockel, and trying to decide. I have a water box 10 long. I was wondering the tank is heavily planted, and I am in college I've heard great reviews about the fluval nano. And how it grows plants well does anyone have any opinions. Also does the light have a humming noise because it is in my bedroom so I would have to choose another light if it did it.
  3. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have ten of the Plant Nanos, several of the 15"-24" models, and one 24"-34" unit. I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, and he designed an adapter. Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano. You will also need an m8-1.25 nut. Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM From @PlaneFishGuy: "Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0" More quotes are forthcoming. Please share your own Fluval Plant 3.0 programs. On iOS, the Overview tab shows the lighting program as a graph and a table. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...
  4. I have been asked to start a thread on modern lighting techniques for reef tanks. So here we go... I will start with discussing the various lighting technologies that are frequently used in reef tanks. 1. LED: Pros: Small form factor Little heat emitted No need to change bulbs Controllability Availability Cons: Too much controllability (this will be discussed further below) Lose efficiency after about 5 years Can be expensive 2. T5 Fluorescent: Pros: Proven technology Many choices for bulbs and bulb combos Great spread More affordable Cons: Need to change bulbs every 8-14 months Little controllability Losing popularity Decreasing availability 3. Metal Halide: Pros: Proven technology Great spread Full spectrum Cons: Produce a lot of heat Need to change bulbs every 9-12 months Little controllability Losing popularity Decreasing availability Consider these pros and cons when choosing a lighting technology to go with. Know that the vast majority of reef keepers are using LED lighting, although many still have success with T5 and metal halides. Let's discuss the most important aspects of reef tank lighting. I would say that there are three main aspects of lighting that are the most important: spread, spectrum, and intensity. Spread: I would argue that of the three, spread is the most important. You can have correct spectrum and intensity, but it is a moot point if you do not have the spread to deliver that light to the coral. This is an area where T5 and metal halide really shine (pun intended). T5 does it by being a light source that is as big as the aquarium, thus delivering light to nearly every corner of the tank. Metal halides accomplish this by using large reflectors that send the light to every corner of the tank. There are two common ways that LED light manufacturers address spread: using a wide-angle lens, or using a flat panel style light. Wide angle lens: Panel style: The pros of the wide angle design is that it gives a natural shimmer look to the tank that many people love. This comes at a cost however. Using a point source light with a wide-angle lens creates shadows in the aquarium, thus limiting the possible areas of the tank where you can plant corals. The pros of the panel design, is that it does a great job of limiting shadows in the aquarium, much like a T5. It does come at a cost of the shimmer, creating a much more flat look to the aquarium. Panel style lights have been much more prevalent in the hobby recently and are gaining popularity. Spectrum: The spectrum of the light that is emitted is also a very important factor. The coral animal contains a symbiotic dinoflagellate called zooxanthellae that performs photosynthesis which gives energy to the coral. This graph shows the wavelengths of light, or spectrum, that are most important for coral photosynthesis: You will notice that most of the peaks of absorption occur within the blue spectrum. This is why most reef keepers agree that having a light that produces a wide spectral band in the 410-470 nm range is important. This is where the controllability of LEDs can be a con. It gives the user the ability to manipulate the spectrum, which can be detrimental to your corals. What looks good to the user, is not necessarily what is good for the corals. The spectrum produced by many metal halide bulbs is considered full spectrum. It is closest of all of these technologies, to the light produced by the sun. It includes wavelengths of light in the UV, far red, and IR spectrums. There is considerable debate as to the effects of these spectrums on coral growth, so I will not go into it too much. Intensity: The intensity of the light is also an important consideration. We usually measure the intensity of lighting using PAR, or Photosynthetically Active Radiation. This is measured using a PAR meter. The PAR needs of your corals depend greatly on the species of coral you are lighting. Generally, soft corals like lower light (50-100 PAR), LPS (Large Polyp Stony) like medium light (75-150 PAR), and SPS (Small Polyp Stony) like high light (200-300 PAR). These are generalizations and vary greatly depending on the specific species. The best way to make sure that you are meeting the PAR needs of your corals is to buy or borrow a PAR meter. You can use this to tune your lights so that they are meeting the demands of your corals. Under-lighting your corals usually corresponds to lessened color and growth. You also do not want to over-light your corals, this can cause bleaching. Popular Reef Lighting Brands: These are some of the most popular lighting brands that have produced considerable success in many people's tanks. Ecotech Radions Kessil Aqua Illumination Primes and Hydras Red Sea Philips Coral Care ATI GHL Maxspect Orphek Reef Breeders If you decide to go with lights from any one of these manufacturers, you know that there are many people who have used these and had success, and are also willing to assist you with any questions you might have. There are also many "budget" friendly options available. However, there is usually little information about them online, so getting help with them can be tough, which is why I generally do not recommend them to beginners. That being said, it is very possible to have great success at growing corals with budget options, such as "black box" LED fixtures from Amazon Conclusion: In conclusion, there are many factors that go into mastering lighting for your reef tank. None of this matters though if you have not already gotten the hang of keeping good and stable water chemistry. Likewise, it is possible to have a great looking reef tank with sub-par lighting, if you already have good water chemistry. Feel free to offer critiques or if you have any questions, feel free to ask them below. *Do not quote this post so edits can be made later.
  5. Hi All! I'm battling staghorn in my puffer tank and based on the info I've collected from you incredible people, I've decided to try to tackle my lighting first but I'm not entirely sure that's right. I have Java fern, anubias, crypt parva, susswassertang and various swords in the tank. All the plants are doing very well! Thank you @Guppysnail@Torrey for recently describing the siesta period! The tank gets some indirect natural light in the late afternoon so I have my timer set for two hours in the morning and four hours at night when we're more active -- we're bakers so we're pretty nocturnal and view the tank more at night. But the lighting adjustment was just done yesterday so not enough time yet to know if that'll help. Nitrates tend to be on the high side because of the messy puffers so I do a ~40 percent water change once a week and don't use liquid fertilizer, just root tabs for the swords. So, long story longer, is six hours enough for now? Am I going in the right direction?
  6. Anyone have the Fluval plant 3.0 light? I am looking for information about how good it really is. Setting up a 75, no CO2 would this be a good light for this tank? Due to the divided rim, I am considering getting a 48” since 2 24” cost more. TIA!
  7. Any suggestions on a good light for a heavily planted 65 gal tank.24 inches deep I believe. I have a finnex 24/7 that I run on full intensity and a nicrew planted plus on full but I don't think I'm getting the penetration I need.How about the 36 inch fluval 3.0 ? Or any other light.
  8. Looking for a DIY backlight solution. I really like the look of the Current USA Serene lighting kit but don’t want the overhead light. Specifically looking for something to use as a backlight that is programmable. I was thinking led light strip with a remote/controller. Is there anything out there like that? It would need to have a timer built in. The end goal is to having lighting that simulates sunrise to sunset colors. So maybe a warm orange in morning that brightens over time, white light mid day and fading to red In evening. It looks like the serene overhead light does that but the backlight can only do static colors and color fades would be going back and forth between 2 colors all day (not very realistic). The frosted film I can get from Lowe’s or Amazon. Luminal has a programmable rgb bulb but not to sure it can do what I want and would prefer something that doesn’t require account setup. I really appreciate any suggestions!
  9. I have (2) 55g and (1) 40g 3ft that over the next 6 months I will be setting up, 2 Tanganyika and Tropical community that I am gonna make my daughters first aquarium. I plan on having all 3 planted and I want to try 3 differient lights. My choices right now is the 2 brands from the COOP fluval and the finnex but I also want to use the orphek plant light strip and I want to know if anyone on here has used a orphek, in the reef community orphek has gotten high marks as a company and I wanted to know if anyone on here has actually used them? I would be putting the fluval on the tropical tank bc that will have the most diverse plants given tangs parameters.
  10. I'm putting together a 46 gallon bow front tank & I need to get lighting. It will be a planted tank. I like clip on lights because they are out of the way & not resting on glass top. Do you think I could get two smaller clip on lights for the tank? My budget is tight & I can't get the $100+ lights at this time.
  11. Converted a large reef tank to FW and have opted to keep the lights for now rather than drop hundreds on more. Any recommended light settings with the spectrum I have?
  12. Hi, I need to replace my light for my 20 long tank. I fad the Finnex 24/7 and it died on me Within a year. I will not buy anything from Finnex Again. Then I had some spare lights that I’ve been using and now they just died on me also. So now I’m trying to research and find out what would be the best light for me for my 20 gallon long tank that is automatic timer built-in and it is also a planted tank. Any ideas?
  13. I noticed there is a topic for fluval planted 3.0 settings. I snagged a fluval aquasky 2.0 for like 50$, so I got it. I love the features and the PAR lighting on my plants. Just wanted to share my daylight settings for those that might have this light. It has a cool morning, 5.5 hours of full sun to feed my plants, and a warm sunset. I have been using this for my 30g foe almost 2 months, and getting great growth on all my plants.
  14. If you don't care about lights with all the 'bells and whistles'...like your lights gradually coming off and on, red-green-blue lights, etc. What characteristics do you look for, in LEDs for your tank?
  15. When reading about planted tanks, I hear the terms "New Tank" and "Established Tank" a lot. Or, sometimes, "new" and "established" referring to an individual plant. Are these term well defined at all? I read or hear things like: "Algae growth is normal in a new tank but will subside when the plants are established." "Reduce the intensity of the lighting in when plants are new and increase it when they are established" How can you tell if a tank or individual plant is established? And, are there more phases or stages to planted tank growth than these two?
  16. My 20g long has a Finnex Stingray on for 6 hours per day. The tank sits on a bar between two rooms and there are three incandescent pendant lights hanging over the bar. These pendants are on all day for reasons unrelated to my tank. When plant shopping, should I consider this a medium or high light setup? (I'm assuming it's not low light because that's what I considered the incandescents alone when they were growing my betta's plants.)
  17. We have our 7 tanks on timers to turn on 15 minutes before my husband needs to leave for work. (6:30 a. m.). They are set to go off when we turn off all electric entertainment,(6:00 p.m.). We are getting a bunch of algae growth and even with the clean up crew some of the tanks are unsightly. I like to have the lighting on while Ray is home and awake obviously. Is it ok for the fish if I set the timer to go off for a few hours during the middle of the day. They are in well lit rooms. But I know I have heard Cory say that the algae growth could be from too much light. I would like to have them come on at 6:30 a.m. -8:00 a.m. and 12:00-6:00. Could that stop the algae invasion (at least slow it) with putting my fish in a scary (for them) situation? Thanks for any help.
  18. Ok, so I have a single Nicrew light on my 40 breeder that houses my featherfin catfish. Recently I rescaped her tank and removed all of the duckweed, and thus MUCH more light is getting in there now, and so now I'm getting spot algae on the anubias and hair algae on the bolbitis. I raised the light up on the little stands that came with it, but it didn't make much difference. I'm not interested in buying a dimmable light at this moment in time, not until this Nicrew bites the dust, so I've been playing with ways to dim the light using other methods. I found that I really like the look of this red scarf I have; it almost looks like a blackwater tank with the colored effect, and the dimness adds to the mysterious look I'm going for (plus the girl in me loves the little flowers on the edge of the scarf). Also I think the catfish probably appreciates the darker environment. My question is, would the red color of the light make the algae worse? Should I just look for some of that sticky window tint stuff to apply to the light, or onto the glass top? Do you have any other suggestions on how to dim the light? My light schedule currently is 5 hrs on, 4 hrs off, 5 hrs on, which works great for all my other tanks (that contain duckweed, lol!).
  19. Hey all, I saw some trasparent on my sword, so at first I thought it was maybe a iron defency. I added root tabs and added some of the tropica premuim fertilizer. All though nothing seems to be working. So I have been doing some research and on other forums some say its a lighting issue. But swords are fairly low light plants, right? It is very low light, I have some really cheap LEDs that came with a tank a few years back. I'm using them until my Fluval 3.0 Nano comes in the mail. What should I do? is it a iron defency? lighting issue? other issue...? Just an FYI i live in Canada so I cant get the easy iron, etc.
  20. Hi Everyone, I need to have a good light for my 35 gallon tank while all the available lights in my country are using white LEDs, so I am going to a DIY light and was wondering which LEDs should I use, should I go for White + Warm (Yellow) + Blue or White + Red + Blue + Green or should I use some other combination? Thanks
  21. So this tank would be considered High tech I suppose, as the title says dual Aquasky LEDs along with Pressurized Co2 everythings on a timer. Im struggling with the lights situation tho. Im growing tons of Hair Algae and im pretty sure its due to tje massive amounts of light coming from the two screaming Aquasky LEDs. I ended up getting duck weed this tank and with Stratum, Easy tabs. and easy green its growing like crazy! And it got thick enough its blocked out atleast half the light and my algae problem started fixing itself. So my question is has anyone had this issue and if so could I possibly mimic their settings cause I have no idea what each particular color does? Ill add a pic of my current settings. Also my current times all is Co2 kicks on at 5am lights on at 6am than co2 off at 4pm than ligjts off and aerator on at 5pm and aerator shuts off at 4am when Co2 comes on. All my plants look good and like I said my Algae is dying off but I feel as if the plants could do better if I knew what colors should be more prominent than others.Tank is Full of Guppies and Taiwan Bee's. I know the internet says you cant keep shrimp in a Pressurized Co2 system but Im kinda fond of @Cory way of doing things. and doing my own research and so far all my shrimp are doing great. Co2 id about 1 to 2 BPS
  22. I have a ten gallon tank with a sponge filter, glass lid, and a Finnex Stingray 2. Inhabitants are a bunch of cherry shrimp and 7 chili rasboras. It's pretty well planted with a variety of different plants, including several types of floating plants. I currently do not dose any fertilizers or any co2, aside from root tabs. When I set it up initially I did add just a bit of fertilizer weekly, but then I got hair algae (I think) that went out of control. I did a blackout for about a week and that killed it, so I stopped dosing ferts and reduced the photoperiod to about 4 hours. Now my photo period is 5 on, 2 off, 5 on so that there's a little siesta during the day. I'm noticing that especially at the bottom, the algae is beginning to return. My thought is that my light is just too bright, and after seeing Girl Talks Fish video comparing Stingray 1 and 2, part of me is considering getting the Stingray 1 so that the light will essentially be cut in half. The reason I have so many floating plants was to reduce the light, which I suppose helps, but didn't solve the problem. Just curious if it is the light, or if there could be another cause. Also while I don't want to purchase a new light for the tank if it means a possible solution I would be happy to, as I am not sure how to appropriately reduce the light otherwise (dimmer switch? electrical tape over some of the diodes?).
  23. I was watching a replay of yesterday's livestream and heard cory talking about reducing the blue light in the fluval lights to reduce algae growth .I'm currently running a low tech, lightly planted 29 gallon with a finnex stingray 2 light that I've covered some white LEDs on to reduce intensity as I had that light on a previous identical setup that it provided too much light for on a 6hr photo period and am wondering if I should cover some of the blue LEDs also in that light to help with algae?
  24. In various livestreams Corey mentioned that he used to have a tank in his bedroom which he would look at to drift off to sleep. But I wonder that when we light such aquariums, a good amount of blue light is used, which should trouble us in having to sleep. So can we gather any tips or resources that can help us get a failure free attempt on night time tanks. Thanks Please let me know if this thread is inappropriate, I shall delete it immediately. I have genuine curiosity and I don't want to cross any boundaries.
  25. Hi everyone, Just checking in with a request for any thoughts on balancing light and nutrients for our lightly planted tank to control algae. We have a 16 gallon tank with a handful of "easy" slow growing plants, and a small company of fish and snails. We've had the tank for about 10 months now. We've been trying to manage cyanobacteria and a few types of algae (lately green water and some fine, long green hairs) - with a UV sterilizer, Maracyn, cleaning the substrate and plants by hand a few times a week and water changes once weekly - usually 20%, but 40% every fourth week. We've cut back further in the past month on light to help fight the algae (still 12 hours, but at peak of 30%), and moved from a norm of <5ppm nitrates to a norm of >40ppm nitrates. We used to fertilize with Easy Green up to 20ppm nitrate, but with nitrates at >40ppm, we've switched to a single round of root tabs (5 or 6) and SeaChem Equilibrium instead of Easy Green. The tests we have (all API) show pH 7.2, ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 40ppm, phosphates 1ppm, KH 5 and GH 6. Any thoughts on what direction to go next? Should we keep cutting back on light in hopes that the algae will come under control, and increase water changes to deal with the nitrates? If so, should we target a specific nitrate ppm in our changes? Should we look to get below 20ppm so we can go back to adding Easy Green? Any additional tests we should be running to see whether a lack of a specific nutrient could be holding back plant growth that could consume those nitrates and maybe dent the algae? Should we be aiming for higher KH/GH figures? Planting more? The tank is in a room that gets a lot of light in the morning and is often lit at night. We cover the sides of the tank when its light is off, but a partial exposure on the top lets light in. Any thoughts on whether we should be more aggressive in blacking out the tank at night while still allowing oxygen exchange? Thanks!
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