Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'lighting'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • Introductions & Greetings
    • General Discussion
    • Photos, Videos & Journals
    • Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
    • Fish Breeding
    • Diseases
    • Aquarium Co-Op's Local Announcements
    • Aquarium Co-Op Events
    • Forum Announcements
  • Off Topic
    • Off Topic General


  • Daniel's Fishroom Blog
  • Music
  • Music for Fish


There are no results to display.

Product Groups

There are no results to display.

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me

  1. I noticed there is a topic for fluval planted 3.0 settings. I snagged a fluval aquasky 2.0 for like 50$, so I got it. I love the features and the PAR lighting on my plants. Just wanted to share my daylight settings for those that might have this light. It has a cool morning, 5.5 hours of full sun to feed my plants, and a warm sunset. I have been using this for my 30g foe almost 2 months, and getting great growth on all my plants.
  2. The Fluval Plant 3.0 lights are really nice, especially for the scheduling and light-level programming available thru the FluvalSmart app. I have ten of the Plant Nanos, several of the 15"-24" models, and one 24"-34" unit. I have spent a lot of time in the app to get things right for my tanks so that I can grow plants, keep algae under control, and get to enjoy my tanks when I am around. I will post my own details in a follow-up message, but I have some general tips to share before that. 1. Firmware Updates: When you do firmware updates, it might look like a two-step process, but you just have to be patient since the bootloader is updated first, and then the firmware, so don't interrupt the process or click what looks like an extra prompt. I have not done a firmware update for a while, so be aware that the user experience might change. If you mess up, or need to do the upgrade again, swipe left on your light in the FluvalSmart app for the option to Upgrade or Remove. 2. Copying Programs: You can copy programs between lights, but not between the Plant Nano and the larger models. So I can use the same program on various Nanos, but for my 15"-24" units, I have to create a new program, which I can then share between those units. The way to do this is to "Save as" your program on one configured light, and then go into the matching target light, and choose "Export", and pick the program. I would expect the option to be labelled "Import", but it is not at the time of this post. 3. Power and Timer: These lights do not seem to have any internal batteries to maintain the time. If you have a power outage or interruption, they will assume the power-on time is 00:00 (midnight), and count from there until you access the light via the FluvalSmart app, which will sync the time. 4. Naming and Password: When editing a light, you can use the three dots to Find, Rename, Set password, and Remove password. I recommend naming your lights, especially if you get more than one. You can even sort them by name or type in the light list, so think about the names in context with your room layout. Password might be useful with too-clever kids, or in a professional environment, like a retail store. 5. Modes: For each light, you have three modes, Manual, Automatic, and Professional. Manual gives you Off, or On, with a custom light level and no scheduling. This is the perfect mode to use for photography, showing your aquariums on off-hours, or if you need to make some darkness so you can sleep in, or film other tanks in the same room. Automatic is an easy scheduling mode with presets for Tropical River, Lake Malawi, and Planted, and you can modify or create your own. It only includes seven set points, so you get a ramp up, a sustained period, a ramp down, an evening low-light period (often just a little blue), and a full night period. Professional mode gives you ten set points, which allows you do do a lot more custom lighting choices, including simulating the sky of a certain region, running a siesta (low or no-light midday period, simulating cloud and tree cover), or even dual siestas, which is what I use. I will add more on this later, once I collect my app screenshots. 6. Plant Nano Tips: The mount only fits on rimless tanks without modification. The metal L-bracket can be used backwards for more height and less reach, which is great for emergent plants and hardscape. If you have an odd size tank, you can also add felt feet and run the Plant Nanos right on a clear hood or glass. I donated a Nano to someone to figure out a 3D-printed rimmed mount, and he designed an adapter. Here is the 3D print file from @AquariumThoughts for the rimmed mount for the Plant 3.0 Nano. You will also need an m8-1.25 nut. Fluval Nano Light Rimmed Tank Adapter by AquariumThouhhououghts - Thingiverse WWW.THINGIVERSE.COM From @PlaneFishGuy: "Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0" More quotes are forthcoming. Please share your own Fluval Plant 3.0 programs. On iOS, the Overview tab shows the lighting program as a graph and a table. Our host, Aquarium Co-Op, carries these lights: Fluval Plant 3.0 LED NANO WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year... Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light WWW.AQUARIUMCOOP.COM 3 Year Warranty Programmable App Highly Water Resistant The Fluval 3.0 is the best planted aquarium light on the market in regards to functionality to cost ratio. Not only does this perform well, but it's backed by a 3 year...
  3. When reading about planted tanks, I hear the terms "New Tank" and "Established Tank" a lot. Or, sometimes, "new" and "established" referring to an individual plant. Are these term well defined at all? I read or hear things like: "Algae growth is normal in a new tank but will subside when the plants are established." "Reduce the intensity of the lighting in when plants are new and increase it when they are established" How can you tell if a tank or individual plant is established? And, are there more phases or stages to planted tank growth than these two?
  4. My 20g long has a Finnex Stingray on for 6 hours per day. The tank sits on a bar between two rooms and there are three incandescent pendant lights hanging over the bar. These pendants are on all day for reasons unrelated to my tank. When plant shopping, should I consider this a medium or high light setup? (I'm assuming it's not low light because that's what I considered the incandescents alone when they were growing my betta's plants.)
  5. We have our 7 tanks on timers to turn on 15 minutes before my husband needs to leave for work. (6:30 a. m.). They are set to go off when we turn off all electric entertainment,(6:00 p.m.). We are getting a bunch of algae growth and even with the clean up crew some of the tanks are unsightly. I like to have the lighting on while Ray is home and awake obviously. Is it ok for the fish if I set the timer to go off for a few hours during the middle of the day. They are in well lit rooms. But I know I have heard Cory say that the algae growth could be from too much light. I would like to have them come on at 6:30 a.m. -8:00 a.m. and 12:00-6:00. Could that stop the algae invasion (at least slow it) with putting my fish in a scary (for them) situation? Thanks for any help.
  6. Ok, so I have a single Nicrew light on my 40 breeder that houses my featherfin catfish. Recently I rescaped her tank and removed all of the duckweed, and thus MUCH more light is getting in there now, and so now I'm getting spot algae on the anubias and hair algae on the bolbitis. I raised the light up on the little stands that came with it, but it didn't make much difference. I'm not interested in buying a dimmable light at this moment in time, not until this Nicrew bites the dust, so I've been playing with ways to dim the light using other methods. I found that I really like the look of this red scarf I have; it almost looks like a blackwater tank with the colored effect, and the dimness adds to the mysterious look I'm going for (plus the girl in me loves the little flowers on the edge of the scarf). Also I think the catfish probably appreciates the darker environment. My question is, would the red color of the light make the algae worse? Should I just look for some of that sticky window tint stuff to apply to the light, or onto the glass top? Do you have any other suggestions on how to dim the light? My light schedule currently is 5 hrs on, 4 hrs off, 5 hrs on, which works great for all my other tanks (that contain duckweed, lol!).
  7. Hey all, I saw some trasparent on my sword, so at first I thought it was maybe a iron defency. I added root tabs and added some of the tropica premuim fertilizer. All though nothing seems to be working. So I have been doing some research and on other forums some say its a lighting issue. But swords are fairly low light plants, right? It is very low light, I have some really cheap LEDs that came with a tank a few years back. I'm using them until my Fluval 3.0 Nano comes in the mail. What should I do? is it a iron defency? lighting issue? other issue...? Just an FYI i live in Canada so I cant get the easy iron, etc.
  8. Hi Everyone, I need to have a good light for my 35 gallon tank while all the available lights in my country are using white LEDs, so I am going to a DIY light and was wondering which LEDs should I use, should I go for White + Warm (Yellow) + Blue or White + Red + Blue + Green or should I use some other combination? Thanks
  9. So this tank would be considered High tech I suppose, as the title says dual Aquasky LEDs along with Pressurized Co2 everythings on a timer. Im struggling with the lights situation tho. Im growing tons of Hair Algae and im pretty sure its due to tje massive amounts of light coming from the two screaming Aquasky LEDs. I ended up getting duck weed this tank and with Stratum, Easy tabs. and easy green its growing like crazy! And it got thick enough its blocked out atleast half the light and my algae problem started fixing itself. So my question is has anyone had this issue and if so could I possibly mimic their settings cause I have no idea what each particular color does? Ill add a pic of my current settings. Also my current times all is Co2 kicks on at 5am lights on at 6am than co2 off at 4pm than ligjts off and aerator on at 5pm and aerator shuts off at 4am when Co2 comes on. All my plants look good and like I said my Algae is dying off but I feel as if the plants could do better if I knew what colors should be more prominent than others.Tank is Full of Guppies and Taiwan Bee's. I know the internet says you cant keep shrimp in a Pressurized Co2 system but Im kinda fond of @Cory way of doing things. and doing my own research and so far all my shrimp are doing great. Co2 id about 1 to 2 BPS
  10. I have a ten gallon tank with a sponge filter, glass lid, and a Finnex Stingray 2. Inhabitants are a bunch of cherry shrimp and 7 chili rasboras. It's pretty well planted with a variety of different plants, including several types of floating plants. I currently do not dose any fertilizers or any co2, aside from root tabs. When I set it up initially I did add just a bit of fertilizer weekly, but then I got hair algae (I think) that went out of control. I did a blackout for about a week and that killed it, so I stopped dosing ferts and reduced the photoperiod to about 4 hours. Now my photo period is 5 on, 2 off, 5 on so that there's a little siesta during the day. I'm noticing that especially at the bottom, the algae is beginning to return. My thought is that my light is just too bright, and after seeing Girl Talks Fish video comparing Stingray 1 and 2, part of me is considering getting the Stingray 1 so that the light will essentially be cut in half. The reason I have so many floating plants was to reduce the light, which I suppose helps, but didn't solve the problem. Just curious if it is the light, or if there could be another cause. Also while I don't want to purchase a new light for the tank if it means a possible solution I would be happy to, as I am not sure how to appropriately reduce the light otherwise (dimmer switch? electrical tape over some of the diodes?).
  11. I was watching a replay of yesterday's livestream and heard cory talking about reducing the blue light in the fluval lights to reduce algae growth .I'm currently running a low tech, lightly planted 29 gallon with a finnex stingray 2 light that I've covered some white LEDs on to reduce intensity as I had that light on a previous identical setup that it provided too much light for on a 6hr photo period and am wondering if I should cover some of the blue LEDs also in that light to help with algae?
  12. In various livestreams Corey mentioned that he used to have a tank in his bedroom which he would look at to drift off to sleep. But I wonder that when we light such aquariums, a good amount of blue light is used, which should trouble us in having to sleep. So can we gather any tips or resources that can help us get a failure free attempt on night time tanks. Thanks Please let me know if this thread is inappropriate, I shall delete it immediately. I have genuine curiosity and I don't want to cross any boundaries.
  13. Hi everyone, Just checking in with a request for any thoughts on balancing light and nutrients for our lightly planted tank to control algae. We have a 16 gallon tank with a handful of "easy" slow growing plants, and a small company of fish and snails. We've had the tank for about 10 months now. We've been trying to manage cyanobacteria and a few types of algae (lately green water and some fine, long green hairs) - with a UV sterilizer, Maracyn, cleaning the substrate and plants by hand a few times a week and water changes once weekly - usually 20%, but 40% every fourth week. We've cut back further in the past month on light to help fight the algae (still 12 hours, but at peak of 30%), and moved from a norm of <5ppm nitrates to a norm of >40ppm nitrates. We used to fertilize with Easy Green up to 20ppm nitrate, but with nitrates at >40ppm, we've switched to a single round of root tabs (5 or 6) and SeaChem Equilibrium instead of Easy Green. The tests we have (all API) show pH 7.2, ammonia 0ppm, nitrite 0ppm, nitrate 40ppm, phosphates 1ppm, KH 5 and GH 6. Any thoughts on what direction to go next? Should we keep cutting back on light in hopes that the algae will come under control, and increase water changes to deal with the nitrates? If so, should we target a specific nitrate ppm in our changes? Should we look to get below 20ppm so we can go back to adding Easy Green? Any additional tests we should be running to see whether a lack of a specific nutrient could be holding back plant growth that could consume those nitrates and maybe dent the algae? Should we be aiming for higher KH/GH figures? Planting more? The tank is in a room that gets a lot of light in the morning and is often lit at night. We cover the sides of the tank when its light is off, but a partial exposure on the top lets light in. Any thoughts on whether we should be more aggressive in blacking out the tank at night while still allowing oxygen exchange? Thanks!
  14. One of our tanks is a 46G bow, and it is struggling to keep the plants alive. The current light on it is the Finnex HLC 24/7 set to the default 24/7 profile. I believe the problem is inadequate lighting as other parameters are good (good chems, root tabs used, appropriate Easy Green ferts, etc.) Would the better solution be adding a second light or replacing the light with a higher PAR light to overcome the tank depth? Perhaps some other potential cause? I have the same model light (30" vice 36") on a 29G that is only 1.5" shallower, and the plants in that are growing very well.
  15. How do you put a fluval plant nano on a rimmed 40 breeder?
  16. I put a plug in timer on my flex but it will only start in storm mode. Any idea? I tried putting it in white mode and unplugging and plugging back in but no luck
  17. So I know the Fluval 3.0 is a fav among aquarists, but it is far too expensive to buy in Canada ($300 on Amazon). I can't justify that for a low-tech tank. Finnex isn't as widely available here either so I'm really looking at Nicrew. Specifically, I am looking at the NICREW SkyLED Plus Aquarium. It seems pretty similar to the Nicrew ClassicLED plus. It does have increased red spectrum light than some of their other models. I am doing low-medium light plants in a 33 gal (36 long x 18 deep x 12 wide). Of course I have I few inches of substrate so don't need it to travel the full 18 inches. The most demanding plants I would like is Scarlet Temple and maybe some type of carpeting plant. SkyLED plus : ClassicLED plus he RGB Plus: Thoughts?
  18. Hi everyone, I have been looking around for a Led light for my 75 gallon aquarium. The 75 gallon would be a heavily planted community aquarium with discus, rainbows, pearl gouramis, denison barbs, cherry barbs, congo tetras, ropefish etc. A couple light models that are at the top of my list are the Aquaillumination AI PRIME, chihiros rgb, and the Fluval Plant 3.0 and Aquasky. I would perfer something that is raised above the aquarium lid to give an extra water effect but I am open to anything. Under are a few examples are something that I am looking for. Is this something you have? What aquarium light do you use in your larger aquariums? Thanks for any ideas!
  19. I bought the LED grow lights for my outdoor garden seedlings. The lights came yesterday but my first seeds wont be here until Monday (or so.) I typically start my seeds under T-8 6500 K fluorescent bulbs, but I had an empty shelf on my plant starting stand and I found four of the LED red/blue grow lights with really good reviews at a pretty good price. Since I have the lights and lots of aquatic plants also, I've put a small dish under the lights and one of each of my common floaters in it to see how they do. The lights are horrible for fish watching, or plant watching for that matter, but we'll see how the floaters (red root floater, salvinia minima, dwarf water lettuce, and frogbit) do under it. It might help them grow faster than they already do. I definitely wouldn't recommend the lights for viewing plants/fish, but it could be a good way to multiply your plant stock.
  20. Happy Thursday All! I have a 10g Tetra brand tank. Right now I'm just using the LED lighted top the kit came with. Should I upgrade to a top with better lighting since I have so many plants in my tank? If so, what should I get that is reasonably priced?
  21. I had a fun thought, and wanted to share it here. I feel like there could be negative sides to changing the environment so drastically. But I also wonder if anyone has tried. The general idea is to light a tank from the clear bottom, instead of the top. Light coming in from the bottom glass would be the brightest light. Duckweed or some other short rooted floating plant would work to give the illusion of a substrate, and I imagine would look complete with shrimp running across it upsidedown. Plants i think would naturally try to grow towards the light. There is a whole world of 'upside down gardening'. In my head, floated from a string attached to the real bottom. I have seen 'floating rock' setups like this, but these plants would grow on the real bottom of the floating rocks, where the light shines from underneath. For fish, not sure if this was about fish or not. LOL Upside down catfish and some kind of goofy loach maybe. What do we think?
  22. Hello, I was looking to upgrade my light for my 45 gallon tall tank. I currently have a NICREW ClassicLED Gen 2 Aquarium Light that is 5200 LUX@12" air 78 PAR@12" in air and 25 W @ 1910lm. Would it be safe to move this over to my 20Long as its new light? Also what would be a good new Higher Par light for my 45 (36.3 in L x 12.6 in W x 23.8 in H) or atleast give a good amount of light to the bottom of my tank? Should I go with the Fluval for the 40 gallon that is recommended or should I look for another one? Also is there a Par in air to Par in Water calculator? OR should I keep the 45 the same and get a new light for the 20L (which is really the one that needs a new light because its running a NICREW ClassicLED Gen 2 Aquarium Light thats 4100 lux in air, 70 par in air, and 15W @ 1160LM that was made for a 10 gallon tank In the 45 Gallon I run CO2 and have a hodge podge of plants ranging from stemmed moneywort to crypts to amazon swords to monteCarlo and some annubis (always need more annubis though)
  23. Hi their! Need some help setting up a basic schedule. Fluval planted nano on a 3 gallon tank. Depth is 8 inches from water surface to dwarf hair grass (which is my only plant). Do you have a recomened intensity? Want to make sure its strong enough, but won't fry the grass. Thanks!
  24. LED Lighting Recommendation for a large tank? 180, so 72”x24x24. I've been looking at the new Current USA Serene series since they offer a 72” LED which I like aesthetically. If I went with Fluval or Finnex I”d have to have mount 36” side by side so unless much better for the plants or visual effect, I'd prefer a single 72” bat. I'm new to serious planting - just anubius, swords and Val in past - so your input much appreciated.
  25. the sun hits my tank for about an hour every morning when the sun rises and it’s my favorite time to watch the fish. they seem to glow in the sunlight. my snakeskin gourami pair was looking extra good this morning snacking on krill flakes. my goldfish look good too share your natural sunlit tanks, i think fish look best in sunlight.
  • Create New...