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ChefConfit

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  1. ChefConfit
    I inherited one with my 29 Hex and immediately threw it away. My hex is dirted so that would probably not have gone well. My 2 concerns with using an ugf in a planted tank would both take months or years to become a problem. 1 plant roots clogging the filter. If you only have a few plants this probably won't happen, but I like to plant very heavy and from seeing how thick the roots get when I've broken down a tank I know it's a possibility. The other would be if using an aquarium soil it will eventually break down, get sucked in and then the uplift tube starts spewing mud everywhere. The second is easily prevented by using only gravel, but a lot of planted tank people like their planted substrates.
  2. ChefConfit
    When I was 5 I think. I won 2 goldfish in at the fair. They were fantails. One was Calico the other was a solid gold body with white fins. They were beautiful. Unfortunately I was 5 and my parents knew nothing about fish. We had them in like a 2 gallon bowl. The Calico lasted maybe 6 months the other lived 8 or 9 years. Then I had a betta in the same bowl for maybe 2 years and then a common goldfish in a 5 gallon that died while I was away at college. All those fish were won at the same fair stand. I learned about proper fish keeping shortly after I got the last goldfish because I went to a highschool that specialized in marine biology but my parents refused to let me buy a larger tank. After that I didn't have fish again until about 2 years ago when we got a 5 gallon for my daughters room. Now I'm planning out a rack of 7-8 tanks for the basement, a new tank for my daughter (she's been asking for a betta) and changing out my 29hex display tank for a 36 bowfront (the hex is very hard to aquascape)
  3. ChefConfit
    About a week ago. I've had detritus worms before and these are nowhere as big as them. These are 2 maybe 3 millimeters long max.
  4. ChefConfit
    Anyone know what these are, if they are dangerous to my shrimp and or plants, and how to get rid of them. They're way smaller than any detritus worms I've had in the past and seem to stick close together almost in a cloud, but it could just be that they are staying in a low flow area. I sucked as many as I could out during a water change a few days ago and now you can't even tell I did.
  5. ChefConfit
    Removing plants/leaves that are beyond saving then spot treating with h2o2 is the most effective way. Either by removing the plant for treatment or dropping the water level low enough. Same with hardscape and any other areas. Treating the entire aquarium is also possible but it's hit or miss and is stressful for fish or finicky plants.
  6. ChefConfit
    I've been trying out different ones. My favorites so far are omega one super color and Bug Bites Color Enhancing. Next on my list to try is extreme krill flake and spirulina flake.
  7. ChefConfit
    Sorry for your hard intro the the hobby but glad to hear you're sticking with it. Not sure if it's been mentioned but don't forget to treat for worms again in a couple weeks to get any new baby's that hatch. The medication can't get them until they hatch so if there's eggs and you only treat once they will come back.
  8. ChefConfit
    What are you keeping that needs such high pH? Most plants and fish in the hobby prefer close to neutral.
  9. ChefConfit
    E
  10. ChefConfit
    Filled a small container 25% peroxide 75% water then left the plants submerged except for their roots for awhile. Most instructions online say 15-20 minutes. Not sure how long I did as I was rescaping my tank and just left them in until I was ready for them. Then I rinsed them in clean water as I put them back in the tank. I however made the mistake of stopping there. You should still treat the tank as if there's a minor outbreak for awhile after getting rid of all visible BBA or it will come back. Frequent large water changes reduced light and tightly controlled nutrients.
  11. ChefConfit
    Very sorry to hear that. My thoughts are with them and I hope sassy is alright.
  12. ChefConfit
    No longer showing up on the channel either.
  13. ChefConfit
    I've removed stems and treated with h2o2 with pretty good success without loosing a lot of plants. I've also found spot treating with h2o2 works better for me than excel.
  14. ChefConfit
    It's a toss up between the of the change in parameters and lack of nutrients near the roots or a combination of the 2. I'd add some root tabs every few months under the crypts. Your crypts will bounce back as long as their roots are healthy. You may also want to consider using something to boost your kh. Tanks with very little or no kh can be at risk for swings in pH.
  15. ChefConfit
    You've gotten very good advice so far, but I'll add a few more tidbit I'd follow if it were my tank. 1 manually remove as much algae as possible. The green hair algae should come off almost completely by just pulling it off. 2 do a few large water changes to cut nitrates to below 20ppm. 3 dose easy green daily rather than weekly. 1 pump daily (none on water change day) will help keep your nutrient level more stable. Algae out competes plants when nutrient levels fluctuate because it adapts more readily. 4 increase the size of water changes until plants establish then gradually reduce to 20% weekly. Recently started doing this because I've been struggling with BBA since I redid my hex and it seems to be helping. Got the tip from listening to the George Farmer podcast. He recommends large frequent water changes in the begining stages of a planted tank to give you more control over the available nutrients in order to control algae until the plants can outcompete it. That's how I'd handle it
  16. ChefConfit
    The rhizome isn't looking so hot. Are the brown patches soft and squishy?
  17. ChefConfit
    Iirc the coop only sells floating plants in store not online. A lot of floating plants will melt if the above water part of the plant is wet for prolonged periods which means they really don't ship well, because the underwater part needs to stay wet or it dies. Discussing the coops competition is not allowed since it is their forum so I'll suggest looking for them on aquabid or I see them a lot on reddit.
  18. ChefConfit
    They shouldn't melt from a blackout. Growth will stop and some red plants may lose some color but everything should bounce right back when lights and ferts come back
  19. ChefConfit
    For the cyanobacteria do a blackout for a week. Turn off the lights and cover the tank with a thick blanket for a week. No w feedings either. Your fish and plants will be fine. Green dust just regular maintenance. Diatom and slime, otos and snails, I really like ramshorns they seem to outcompete my pest snails to keep them under control, but populations stay more reasonable.
  20. ChefConfit
    Just so you know there's a section of the forum for non aquarium/fish related posts https://forum.aquariumcoop.com/forum/15-off-topic-general/ There's also a very similar post in that section I replied there awhile back with my other interests if you're interested
  21. ChefConfit
    @Daniel is this experiment still going? This is one of my favorite threads on the forum. I had 2 predictions when you said you were going to do this experiment. 1 was that the dirted tank would have the early advantage and be the first to show signs of growth/have the fastest growth early on. 2 was that long term the dirted and nerm tanks would be roughly equal. My first prediction was wrong, but if the experiment is still running I'd be interested to see if my second prediction held up. I will say though at first I didn't realize only the nerm tank would be getting ferts dosed in the water column which I think gives the nerm tank a big advantage.
  22. ChefConfit
    @Streetwise is the organic soil expert here but I'll give my advice as well. I've done soil layers ranging from 1 inch to about 6 in the back of my hex. Sand layers between half an inch and an inch. My biggest piece of advice is plant heavy at the start and use fast growing and or floating plants to soak up the nutrient leach in the begining. My second biggest piece of advice is to poke into the substrate to release gasses before water changes until the your plants are really well established. This will help release the gasses that can build up in anaerobic soil. Once the plants all have established root systems them will oxygenate the soil and prevent it on their own. I use a metal skewer in my hex but a metal chopstick worked in my 5g. Just got straight down then back up to avoid an eruption.
  23. ChefConfit
    I'd recommend the citric acid and baking soda method. Kits with solenoids can be found on Amazon or ebay pretty cheap. The nice thing about that style tank is once the solenoid cut off the co2 flow to the tank the reaction in the bottles stops too which mean the bottle can't explode from pressure buildup. The citric acid setups are generally considered more reliable/stable and last longer as well.
  24. ChefConfit
    As stated by others it's probably a bacterial bloom. Either due to the antibacterial killing off your BB or the added bioload from new fish triggering one, or a combination of the two. It'll probably clear up before the week is up, but if not do large water changes a few days in a row to remove the meds and the cloudiness should go with it.
  25. ChefConfit
    Unless I was worried about pollution or some known issue in the area I collected it from I wouldn't worry. I rinse and scrub lightly with just water to remove debris/sediment stuck to it and sometimes do a vinegar test to check if a rock will impact my water parameters. Oh and I either soak or boil wood but that's just to make it sink not because I'm worried about contamination. As @Daniel and @Brandy said I would never buy hardscape for most of my tanks. I'm considering setting up a tank to do aquascaping for competitions and that's the only thing I would consider buying hardscape for, because I'd want specific types of rock or wood I couldn't find out in the woods here.
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