ChefConfit

I have crypt undulata red, red flame sword, dwarf lily, some form of AR and a red variety of rotala all doing well in tanks without co2. Some are not fully red in my setups though. My crypts are more bronze and rotala is inly red in my shrimp tank which is much shorter so the plants get stronger lighting.

Yea those are probably nerite eggs. Cory eggs are perfectly round and not nearly as opaque. Here's a Pic from when mine were spawning.

@Tetra Guy I use the new easy multi test strips(they're awesome) , but whatever test kit/strips you like to use will work well enough. @Irene made a great video about how to find you're tanks proper dosing awhile back, but I'm not sure which chanel it was on (she has her own chanel plus videos on both of the coops channels) It's been awhile since I watched that video but I think my method is very similar. First do a big water change. Then test the water and record the nitrate. Next add easy green until the nitrates increase by 20ppm. Record the new nitrate level and the number of pumps it took to get there. Then test everyday at the same time that you dosed ferts on the first day and record the nitrate level. When nitrates come back down to the level they were at before dosing you know how many days it takes to consume a certain number of pumps of fert and can calculate how much fert your tank consumes per day. For example if your tank is at 10ppm nitrate before ferts and it takes 4 pumps of easy green to get to 30ppm nitrates then takes 8 days to return to 10ppm nitrates then you know you tank consumes 1 pump of easy green every 2 days.

What @KBOzzie59 said. I break my dosing up throughout the week for this reason. My tank consumes about 1 pump every 2 days so that's what I put in. I should probably do my testing again to get a new dosage amount though because plant mass has more than doubled since I tested.

Basically take an aquaclear and add space for a heater and airstone and make the output direction adjustable ( both both vertical and horizontal) oh and enough room between the intake and glass so a prefilter sponge fits properly.

I mostly like that it doesn't follow the same plot that it has followed for every generation since the begining. Rather than just Ash traveling from gym to gym collecting badges to compete in the pokemon league he is helping Goh learn about being a pokemon trainer while he tries to catch one of every Pokemon and Ash competing in a world wide pokemon tournament. And as for new pokemon idk how much you've watched but they've visited Galar several times so far.

As said several times already there aren really any plants you can't grow in gravel. However anything regarded as a heavy root feeder (swords and crypts) will probably need root tabs to provide nutrients. Easy green root tabs are a great option an are what I currently use, but I've also had success in the past with diy tabs. Stem(total, bacopa ect...) and epiphyte(buce, java fern, anubias) plants however can pull all the nutrients they need from the water and only need a liquid fertilizer such as easy green. Some java fern, anubias, moss and a couple of stems is a great start to get into planted aquariums without needing much specialized care.

Of course begining with indigo league. And journeys is the best the show has been in years imo. I felt like the show started going down hill quickly after battle frontier, and only began to improve during sun and moon.

Gundam wing was my intro as a kid so I've always had a soft spot for any mech anime. I also love sword art online. I've recently been rewatching pokemon with my daughter from the begining.

Just another thought. A lot of t3dechlorinators do more than just dechlorinate. I know several detoxify ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and bind heavy metals. Could any of those reactions consume O2?

@Dirtydavenot necessarily I have the same in my display tank. If I fill it so the water coming out of the hob shoots straight across the surface of the water rather than a waterfall going into my tank than it whips around all floaters and slowly kills them duckweed included. If I drop the water even a 1/4 in then it reduces flow at the surface enough that the floaters can gather at the other end of the tank and stay out of the outflow keeping the tops of the leaves dry. Keeping the surface flow really fast to slow/prevent growth and removing what I could by hand let me eliminate duckweed from the tank in about 2 weeks. It hasn't had any in about 6 months now.

My guess is calcium deficiency. You could add crushed coral to boost calcium in the water, or feed them a tums every once in awhile.

I like ramshorn snails. I think they look better than pond snails and don't take over a tank as fast, but the do reproduce fast enough that some can get picked off and the colony will survive.

Guppys don't go to town on it like goldfish and carp but I've seen mine eat it once in awhile, also some cichlids are known to eat it iirc. But with that stocking list I'd say it's just the flow preventing it from growing

Yes and no. They are shipped in water and the empty space in the bag is filled with pure O2. The O2 only enters the water through normal surface gas exchange so O2 saturation can never exceed 100%. Pumping pure O2 through an airstone could force enough O2 into the water to supersaturate it, just like putting too much CO2 through a diffuser could. It's an unlikely scenario, but could happen. Actively pumping pure O2 into an aquarium through an air stone and filling the dead space in a fish bag with pure O2 are definitely not the same thing.

First off that is a beautiful tank! I noticed that the parameters you posted here are the same as you posted in a thread yesterday. Are those from after the issue started? Nothing seems off about your parameters. If they did get gassed it could take some time for them to recover. I'd recommend an air stone for your tank as well. Keeping your O2 levels high with an air stone will help protect them from accidental CO2 dumps. Dumping a whole tank of CO2 will still gas your fish, but they will have some protection.

@d6veteran yea I love the idea of having a beautifully scaped high tech tank, but I know I would have the time it takes to maintain one. You should check out George Farmer on YouTube and his podcast too. He is a very highly regarded aquascape, but he advocates using easy to grow plants and easier to maintain systems. His scrapes are just as beautiful as any you'd see from the other top aquascapers, but in theory could be maintained by any aquarist with moderate experience with plants.

20-30ppm might be 10x the normal CO2 saturation of aquarium water, but it isn't 10x the maximum saturation. Gas bubble disease occurs when the limit of total dissolved gasses is passed and there is more dissolved gas in the water than it can hold. CO2 poisoning to my knowledge is actually just asphyxiation and can be avoided by adequate levels of O2 in the water. So high levels of CO2 is safe provided there are also high levels of O2, which can be from photosynthesis or an air stone.

Running an air stone is a great idea, but I wouldn't run pure O2 through it. A small usb air pump will be sufficient to keep O2 saturation close to 100% iirc. Using your O2 tank would just be wasting money not to mention something you depend on for your health. But your thoughts that extra O2 would be beneficial to your tank especially at night is correct especially in a heavily planted tank. At night when there is no light for photosynthesis plants actually consume O2 and release CO2 so very heavily planted tanks can run into problems with low O2 saturation if they are not running an air stone. Also O2 poisoning is a thing. It's rare that hobbyists run into it but it does happen. I've heard horror stories of people basically giving their fish the bends because they used very cold water (which can be super saturated with O2) during a water change.

Haha I'm in the same boat! I want a new display tank, but I'm already working on my summer tub and my daughter has been asking for a betta.

Yea you can start it right away. In the new tank you might wat a prefilter sponge so that no fry get sucked in as well. I run them on all my HOBs as my course filtration

Here's what I'd do. First set up the new tank fill it then dechlorinate(or fill with water from the parents tank) then transfer 1 sponge filter and the hob. Then add the fry a day or 2 later. The sponge and other surfaces in your tank will house more than enough BB to maintain your cycle.

Hey just thought I'd chime in with my take on your situation. It's not that the advice you're getting is wrong it's just that IMO it's unnecessarily complicated. Both for someone just getting back into the hobby and for the plants you have. There are as many ways of keeping fish as there are fish keepers, but I tend to prefer the methods that give me more time to enjoy my tank and less time doing (necessary) maintenance. The only plants that you listed are java fern and buce. Both are slow growing plants that do well in low tech setups. That's not to say they don't also do well in high tech setups like yours, just that they don't need them. If you do want a high tech setup I'd the simplified version of EI dosing George Farmer uses. He has a pretty good podcast where he talks about it(you shod give it a listen) , but essentially I'd start with one pump of fert per day for that size tank (I'm assuming you're using easy green since you live so close to the coop). I wouldn't dose any iron, the plants you currently have aren't known to consume a ton of iron so the amount in Easy Green should suffice (overdosing iron or any nutrient can contribute to algae growth). Then you should do one 50% water change per week. As for making sure you are dosing Co2 properly I'd recommend a drop checker. It a glass vial that stays in your aquarium filled with a solution that changes color based on the amount of co2 in the water. They are pretty accurate but lag behind the true co2 level by about half an hour because co2 has to get into the air in the vial via gas exchange then into the solution before it changes color. As for preventing algae growth while promoting plant growth the best advice I can give you is add fast growing plants. The plants you have right now are very slow growing, so even when growing as fast as possible in a perfect high tech setup it is easy for algae to outcompete them for nutrients. Some stems and or floating plants will grow much faster and outcompete the algae. Once again the other advice you've received could work for you, I'm just offering a simpler solution.

The Lowes version is a great deal as well. That's what I am planning on using. It was the only one I could find that was 4ft wide 2ft deep and rated over 400lb per shelf. Keep in mind a good estimate for tank weight is 10+lbs per gallon.

So I recently purchased a large plastic barrel planter to turn into a patio pond. I'm planing on making a shelf and getting some of the fabric pond planting pots in order to add some bog/marginal plants, but I've never had any pond plants and could use suggestions. I know I want verigated water celery. I would also like something tall such as a grass or Reed and something that will trail out and hang down over the side of the container. I was thinking either sweet flag, blue-eyed grass or dwarf cattails for some thing tall. For the trailing plant I'm at a loss. Can pothos be grown as a marginal plant? I was also wondering if I should go with an aquarium lily/tiger lotus or if I should get a smaller variety of pond lily. I've also got dwarf water lettuce and Frogbit to use as floating plants. As for submerged plants I'll probably just do a mix of everything I've got in my tanks and see what does well. Here's a Pic of the container. Somewhere between 23 and 24 gallons, so I figure after adding substrate and planters I'll have about 20 gallons of water for fish. The pond planters I'm looking at are 7in cubes if that's important.