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About Me

  1. I've been lurking around a while and have become a bit more active in the forum lately. I currently reside here in South Korea, and here's a picture of the tank (17gal) in our living room. It is in the process of "conversion" from a goldfish tank. After failing to save our goldfish (Loppy) and dojo loach (Jojo Dojo) from ich (long story), I had to break the news to my kid. Little Man (4yo) was really, REALLY saddened by the loss. He was trying so hard to swallow his tears, but he got so happy when I showed him old videos of Loppy and company. People that say, "It's just a fish" can...(keeping it G-rated) go kick rocks. We had a burial and everything. "Bye fishies! I'll see you again, someday!" I decided to change things up to a nice community tank of smaller fish. I've dubbed it "The Boys" tank since all the livebearers are male. Not all have names yet. The Boys kicked BBA butt (shared that story here), and I'm REALLY enjoying being able to keep a wider variety of plants. The fish and inverts all get along peacefully, and the corydoras get targeted feeding if I see their bellies aren't filling up after a feeding. Currently inside: 1 gold dust molly (tentative: B.B.Asaurus-Rex) 1 variatus platy (Blimpy Major) 1 teacup platy (Blimpy Minor) 1 yellow cobra guppy 1 green fancy guppy with a giant black tale 1 otocinclus (Otto Von Bismarck II) 1 mystery snail 3 cherry shrimp 3 Amano shrimp 4 bronze corydoras (Cory Corporation) 6 zebra danios ("The Jets") -Big Bertha (largest, striped with a giant spot) -2 with striped patterns -2 with spot patterns -The Grey (semi-albino/lighter striped) 1 Army of mini-ramshorn snails Plants: Crushed Coral Substrate Water Sprite (in substrate) Water Sprite (floating) Dwarf Water lettuce (floating forest) Cabomba (planted) Anubias petite (on rock) Anubias barteri (on rock) Java fern (on rock) Pennywort (in substrate) Pests: Black Beard Algae (dying a slow death) A bit of a long intro...but being verbose is my modus operandi. If you're curious about anything, I'm happy to share what worked and didn't work for me, but I'm no expert...just an enthusiast on the journey.
  2. Here are two pictures showing before and after for the dreaded Black Beard Algae! Before After The long story is below...TL;DR provided at the end. The BBA probably developed as a result of a major amount of aquarium light and sunlight. My goldfish and dojo coach also added their own particulates to the water. However, I must add the observation that the BBA did not start to take hold until after the addition of the dojo coach. Due to some unfortunate circumstances involving a rosy barb, the goldfish and dojo loach passed away. A story for another time, perhaps... Tank Set Up A 17 gallon tank (rather odd number, right?) when I mathed it out...it has this large built-in, hang-on-back filter. I have a sizeable coarse sponge on the intake, and 110 cubic inches of space for filter material which I filled up with more coarse sponge sheet that was cut to size. The substrate is crushed coral, pH 7.7ish, hard(er) water, and low nitrate (gotta be up on those water changes). The Fight Begins Now, I was stuck with a fishless tank and lots of BBA. Channeling Barney Stinson, “Challenge, accepted!” I began with decontamination of the “ichy” tank and the addition of 3 amano shrimp and 3 cherry shrimp (my kid was really bummed about the goldfish, Loppy, and dojo loach, Jojo Dojo), and watching shrimp scurry everywhere made him happy. I had read that shrimp are unaffected by ich, and the meds were shrimp-safe. They did a little bit of BBA nomming, but I didn’t expect such a small number to make a noticeable dent. Plant Reinforcements!!! The live plants in the aquarium were annubias petite (not nana petite), and some java fern. For those who are unfamiliar with them, these plants don’t grow fast. However, they did quite well with the goldfish. Irene (Girl Talks Fish) had once mentioned in a video that one of the best defenses against algae was a massive amount of healthy live plants in the aquarium. So, I brought in some cuttings of cabomba, some penny wort, and miniature water lettuce from my tanks at work. Without the loach and goldfish, I could now experiment in this tank with a wider variety of plants that wouldn’t get uprooted and/or eaten. I also bought some water sprite. All but one would NOT stay rooted, so now they just float and grow like the happy weeds they are...you do you, plants. Enter the Fish Mawn Lowers Before I continue, I should echo some great advice I once got, “Don’t get fish JUST to do your job of tank maintenance for you. Get fish that you genuinely want to keep.” I started by rewatching old Aquarium Co Op videos and decided on a bunch of colorful livebearers - a trio of male guppies, a male teacup platy, a male variatus platy, and male gold dust molly. A tank full of baby fish kind of freaks out my wife, so we went with “The Boys” tank. There is also a lone, but VERY well-fed otocinclus named Otto von Bismarck II. A quartet of bronze corydoras later joined the mix. The Turning of the Tide The fish were introduced after quarantining and treatment (reminder: ALWAYS quarantine and treat). And I figured the filtration and plants (just the anubias and java fern) were enough for a fully-grown fancy goldfish (5.5" from nose to peduncle) and a dojo loach (relatively small, like a board marker size). The new fish should be perfectly fine with the added plants. The new little fish even eat less. The new plants flourished once they got settled. The two cabomba, like hydras, grew an extra stem each. The water sprite shot out new growth almost within a day or two. The water lettuce grew from occupying ~15% of the surface area to ~35%. All of this within less than a month. There would be no extra nutrients for the BBA army. Assault on Fortress BBA The BBA growth had been halted. Now, now was the time to attack! And the long-oppressed citizens of the tank, the mini-ramshorn snails could finally grow to full-sized adults without becoming goldfish or dojo-loach food. Small green clearings appeared on the annubias leaves each with a snail shell 1-2mm in diameter slowly moving about. It was not until the third week when the molly had had enough of the yellow cobra guppy's constant displays that the inner dragon was unleashed. It began to rip and tear the BBA off of the anubias leaves, the pots, and the lava rocks. It removed around 85% of the BBA in the "before" picture at this time...I'm not sure who ate it (my guess is the variatus platy, he has grown easily 25-30% bigger in the last month while the others progress normally). The cobra guppy stopped displaying...for like 2 days, and then it was business as usual. The grand BBA army is routed, and the remnants are used to make more snails or get the cobra guppy to back off for an hour or two. The Current State The fish and plants are currently all doing well. One of the bronze corydoras I was worried about due to barbel erosion has since grown faint barbels back and is on its way to becoming a chunky monkey. The amano shrimp have also increased an uncanny amount. I was genuinely worried because of all the molts I saw and thought it might have been my adding fertilizer or doing a water change. But they just keep getting bigger. Three zebra danios were added and succeeded as the right dither fish for the shy corydoras. The BBA exists in small patches and on the edges of leaves. But on the hardscape, it is almost completely eradicated. TL;DR. My goldfish and dojo died, the tank was covered in BBA, fast-growing plants were added to halt growth, livebearers were introduced to nom, and only the molly and mini-ramshorn snails really ripped it apart FTW. Pardon the long story. I wish you all the best in your BBA wars.
  3. In case anyone has been considering Rosy Barbs, I just wanted to share some of my anecdotal experience in keeping them so that maybe others will have a few things to consider before trying them out. Looks First off, they are really pretty fish, especially the long-fin (hyphenated?) variety. The males color up and exhibit some amazing colors, and even the females are a wonderful, bright yellow. The single male I kept in my goldfish tank for a couple years was a wonderful bright orange red. He became even more striking when I started feeding the tank krill flakes. Behavior They will DEFINITELY pick on, nibble at, and help keep black beard algae in check. In my case, it was utter extermination with the single male I had in my tank. I later added a group of females and another male, and they utterly stripped that tank clean of any and all traces of BBA and string algae (which I suspect came from my Marimo moss ball). They are supposed to be relatively peaceful fish, but I think that is very much on a fish-by-fish basis. The single male I had for a LONG time with my goldfish never once picked at or nipped her long, flowy fins. The new group of females and male were a rabid bunch of fin nippers. As such, I had to re-home them and kept my super docile male, who at this time was about 3.5" from nose to peduncle (longer if you count the long, flowy fins he had). This male, unfortunately, died when I was moving. I'm not sure how or why. I had a battery-operated air pump and air stone in a good-sized cooler with clean water. I think it may have been the stress; he stayed with us a little while after the tank got set up (same day as the move), but he never seemed to recover. I really liked that fish. I didn't get a replacement rosy barb for a while, and BBA came creeping back and invaded in force. I caved and bought a new male, long-fin rosy barb. When he was introduced to the tank, that BBA went from looking fluffy to looking mowed down seemingly overnight. The new tank savior also suddenly tore into the goldfish after living peacefully together for more almost a month. It was just as fast and brutal as the BBA, only instead of "seemingly overnight" it all happened in one "literal night." Conclusion These are excellent fish, and they look absolutely phenomenal. They didn't seem to give any of the fast-swimming fish any trouble, nor did they give the dojo loach any trouble, and he just sat at the bottom hiding under plants a lot of the time. But it just seems like a real coin toss whether you will get one with a violent tank boss personality or one that is a zen master and hair algae mowing machine. Be careful and watch them closely if you have any fish you may have concerns about. I wish you the best of luck in keeping them if you choose to have them in a community tank. Final note: The goldfish tank I kept mine in was a cold water tank and had no heater. My wife keeps the house about the same temperature year-round, so it was just "room heating/cooling."
  4. So I’ve gotten some easy carbon, but I was wondering how to use it to treat my black beard algae on my plants, Zoe’s bio filter, etc.
  5. Hello, Need help identifying this algae and opinion on solution. I am 5 months into my 20 long low tech and I believe I am very close to having the tank balanced. I am autodosing 2mls of easy green 3x/week and keeping my nitrates at 25ppm which is primarily from fertilizer as my plants consume all my nitrates very quickly. I seem to be struggling with what I believe to be BBA on the edges of my plants and most of the algae affects leaves that are closer towards the top of my tank. Bottom plants don’t seem to be as affected. I am unsure what lever to adjust next to reduce the amount of BBA. I am running my fluval 3.0 at 30% for 7.5 hours every day and have a good mix of fast/slow growing plants. I have 3 Amano shrimp and a full blown infestation of cherry shrimp. Wondering if I should increase lighting, increase ferts, decrease both or a combo. My primary concern is that if I don’t figure out eventually i will have to keep trimming off the affected leaves that I’ve worked so hard to grow out. Thoughts?
  6. Hello friends, I have been struggling with BBA proliferating in my tank after previously battling green string algae. Currently, BBA is the predominate algae out of control but hair algae is also making a comeback. I will list a number of my tank parameters below and hope that someone has any ideas on how to modify my tank care to stop helping BBA (and hair algae for the matter) grow. I'm feel pretty defeated as of late and am contemplating getting out of the "high tech" tank territory since it has been quite problematic for the past number of months with algae. Background Story Some background, in August, I decided to switch to using Aquarium Co-Op's Easy Green (EG) from Seachem Excel in addition to Easy Iron (mistake). The reason I added Easy Iron (EI) was to try and support mini Alternanthera Reineckii and thought I should add some more iron to help contribute to the vibrant red color. I was dosing 2 pumps, twice a week with EI and EG. That's when the BBA started. After doing that for 2 weeks, I stopped using EI altogether thinking that was the cause. Perhaps foolishly, I also thought that I could "out compete" the BBA by starting to now dose EG daily (following George Farmer's fertilizing method) since I am running a high tech setup. I started dosing EG daily for 5 weeks with weekly 50% water changes and the BBA remained steady or got slightly worse. Presently, I switched back to dosing EG only twice a week still w/ weekly water changes. With every water change, I'm having to remove a lot of BBA including bleach dipping my C02 diffuser and cutting the top of all the Monte Carlo Carpet each time, trimming plants and replanting stems, etc. The BBA may have gotten slightly worse tbh after I stopped dosing fertilizers daily and switched to twice a week. I don't know what the main cause is. Perhaps my lights are too intense. Perhaps I need to use a different fertilizer. Perhaps by C02 is not dialed in. What I do know is that BBA is thriving now in this tank ever since I started dosing EI and it won't go away. Before I had BBA issues, I had hair algae issues. This has made it almost impossible to keep flame moss (or any kind of moss) b/c algae will inevitably grow on it. Water Solution Testing I took these measurements yesterday (10/25) before performing a 50% water change on my 22 gallon long tank. I should mention that the water I use is remineralized reverse osmosis water (RO) using Salty Shrimp "Shrimp Mineral" GH/KH+. I take RO water and remineralize to about 200-220 total dissolved solids (TDS). I follow this method from Flip Aquatics. pH = 6.8 Ammonia = 0ppm Nitrite = 0ppm Nitrate = 5ppm I still don't fully understand how interpret the GH/KH measurements but below are the number of drops it took to change the color of the GH/KH solution, respectively. GH = 13 drops KH = 6 drops Plants Monte Carlo carpet Rotala Macrandra Mini = x9 stems Rotala Indica = x6 stems Flame moss - used to be on the rocks seen pictured but got too covered in BBA and hair algae and now treating in sperate bucket with Seachem Excel and Hydrogen Peroxide. You can see some of it in the one "nice" picture of my tank I included. 3 Buce = there are 2 bigger buce you will see in the "nice" picture and 1 very small one elsewhere in the tank. I also removed the 2 big buce to treat separately with excel and H202 to kill BBA Hydrocotyle Tripartita "Japan" = a few "clumps" Cryptocoryne wendtii Bronze = 3 Critters Celestial Pearl Danios = approx. 12 Galaxy Rasboras = approx. 4 Chili Rasboras = approx. 18 Phoenix Rasboras = 4 Pgymy Corydoras = approx. 8 Otto Catfish = approx. 6 Red Cherry Shrimp = approx. 8 Amano Shrimp = 3 Used to have 1 female betta - R.I.P Lighting / Ferts / Filter / Water Temp / C02 / Type of Water / Substrate / Misc I attached the screenshot of my Fluval Plant 3.0 light. Looking at another post on this forum, I'm wondering if my lights are too high. You will see that the light cycle starts at 12pm and ramps up to 100% at 12:30pm and goes till 6pm (6 hours total) . I just changed that today to reduce my lighting time in hopes that would slow down BBA growth. However, for the past number of months (6 or so), my light was starting at 11am and ramping to 100% at 11:30am and turning off at 6pm (7 hour total). Filter - Oase Biomaster Thermo 350 w/ Seachem Matrix media, Seachem Purigen and filter wool Water Temp - set to 74 degrees fahrenheit w/ heater that is apart of the Oase filter Fertilizers - as mentioned above, I currently only use Easy Green Lighting - Fluval Plant 3.0. It is handing about 1.5 feet above water. C02 - 5 lbs. tank. Gets to 30ppm about an hour after the lights turn on. The C02 turns on 2 hours before lights turn on. I take RO water and remineralize with Salty Shrimp "Shrimp Mineral" GH/KH+ to 200-220 TDS. Tank size = 22 gallons (long) My tank is in a basement that has a pretty consistent temp, however, I heat my tank as mentioned above. The tank is located next to a window sill so it does get a bit of indirect sunlight every day and it goes with the season. I live in the midwest US. I started injecting oxygen into the tank for about 3 weeks now after I gave up for now on using water skimmers. I suffered to many fish deaths from my nano fish being sucked into water skimmers to their death. (See my other post - I have yet to follow up on it). Substrate - ADA Aquasoil 2.0 with ADA Aquasoil Powder type on top. Finally....I typed as much info as I knew to provide. If you have any questions, I'm happy to answer. Like I said, all this has made me want to get out of the high tech space for aquariums b/c of how many hours I have spent deep cleaning my tank and trying to diagnose the root cause of algae unsuccessfully. After being in the hobby for almost 2 years now, I still feel very much like a n00b and am humbled and frustrated! Thank you for reading and your help!
  7. Hey everyone, I have been fighting a localized algae bloom in my Spec V for months, and I can't figure it out. It's a super puffy, billowy gray algae that is easy to remove, but it ALWAYS comes back. The weird thing is that it is only on one branch in my tank, and absolutely nowhere else. The pictures below are of the branch 1 week after plucking everything off with aquascaping tweezers. I do this routine weekly, and it always comes back in force over the following week. I have no other algae in the tank (AT ALL) and have never had issues, even on the buce that I have. I currently have cherry shrimp in the tank, and they won't touch the stuff. I have no nitrites and ammonia, and I keep the nitrates <20 ppm. Ph is around 7.5, temperature is around 76F, light is on for 9 hours a day, which I gradually raised from 6 hours in the beginning with no issues. I'm starting to dose Easy Carbon to see if that does anything, but this algae is so tough that I have low expectations. Anyone have any advice? At the very least, can someone positively identify this algae for me? Thanks!
  8. I have this very small patch (half of a dime roughly) of black beard algae that's been growing in my tank. Theres also like 5 hairs on the Anubias next to it. I kind of like the look of it but I dont want it to spread all over the anubias and wood. I have a place and guppies that constantly pick at the surface of everything in the tank but they dont pick at this because they either dont like it or because its in a hard to reach area (under fishing wire to hold the plant down). So what are your thoughts? Should I get rid of it?
  9. Does anybody know what this black stuff is? Initially I only saw it on the tips of my cyperus helferi and thought maybe it was just a normal process for the plant (like how Java ferns will make baby Java ferns on their leaves)... but yesterday I had a major die off of my cherry shrimp (after several months of smooth sailing with this planted/Walstad method shrimp jar.) I did a big water change and noticed some of the black things growing in the anubias and buce too. Now I’m concerned maybe it is some kind of parasite? I treated with Paraguard out of caution but can’t speak to whether or not it’s changed anything yet. Of note, I do NOT believe it to be black hair algae. I’ve had plenty of that in other tanks and it doesn’t look the same. Thanks in advance for any help!
  10. Hello, i have this issue where all of my plants have some black algae. My Java fern and specially cryps are getting affected quite a lot in my planted 50 gal. Im pretty sure it’s due to being located in my living room where there’s a lot of natural light and the way that the frames of the windows are set up, I can’t get any solid curtains to block out the light over night. does anyone have a fix to this? Suggestions? I really think the tank is set up super nice, however the algae takes away from it soo much. all replies will be appreciated, thank you!
  11. I’ve been struggling with BBA in my planted community tank. I am trying to balance the tank, but I ended up treating the plants with Hydrogen Peroxide in the meantime. All of the BBA is now red, which means it’s dying, correct? Do I need to do anything else at this point? Will it just die off? I have some Amano shrimp, but they haven’t touched it. Also, is it true that blue lighting promotes algae? Thanks for your help!
  12. I have developed black beard algae on my intake sponge for my HOB. I have a moderately planted tank with different plants including vals. I know you can spot treat with hydrogen peroxide, but was wondering if anyone has done something like an Easy Carbon dip? I would like to avoid adding Easy Carbon to the tank to prevent damage to the vals. Was thinking along the lines of removing the intake sponge and letting it sit in a bath of diluted Easy Carbon, rinsing it out really well with old tank water, then replacing it in the tank. Has anyone tried this?
  13. A while back i purchased some bacopa from my lfs and didnt quarantine them. Sure enough i did in fact have a small BBA outbreak that spread from the bacopa to my anubias and java fern. I had successfully removed the BBA then a few weeks later i noticed it coming back only on my java fern. At least i think it came back. It has reappeared around the tiny plantlets that are sprouting from the leaves. Is this in fact BBA, or are my sprouts developing roots? Here are a couple of pictures.
  14. I am dealing with an outbreak of black beard hair algae in my tank. This has been going on for a while, but has recently gotten worse due to me upgrading my aquarium light. Recently I noticed my Oto eating the algae though, which is strange because I didn’t think that they eat this type of algae. If anyone has any suggestions on how to deal with this type of algae, please feel free to let me know. But, it’s not as bad as I thought if my Oto is willing to eat some of it. Maybe all I need to do is buy another
  15. Hello I'm sure this is a common topic and have searched numerous forums including all social media .... How to get rid of it. Yes I have Siemese Algea eater (SAE), with no success, also tried hydrogen peroxide on the decorations. Is there anything that can eliminate it from plants and surfaces in the tank. Much appreciated Bryan
  16. I have a horrible algae problem that is wiping out most of my plants and grows several inches long off my hob that started a few months back when I was running the beamworks light an average of 12-16 hours per day and only using flourish micro but it was pretty minor and not widespread and I actually liked the look, I have since put my lights on an 8 hour timer and started using easy green and easy iron because my nitrates were staying at zero, and I added co2 a month or so back I have removed the vast majority of my val because cutting it back almost to the ground well below any algae I saw didn't stop it, I've dipped everything in straight peroxide hoping that would for sure do it and even if I killed the leaves the stems would survive but that also failed because even though there is new growth from the stems of the plants that mostly died the algae came back to them and I'm lost. I'm sorry I cant organize my thoughts into proper sentences without spending the next hour and a half editing this but I'd be very grateful for the advice if anyone can help me save my little buddies.
  17. Hi guys... I cleaned my tank yesterday and wiped the front glass with an algae scrubber, this morning I noticed a couple tiny spots with this... any thoughts on what it is? Almost looks like mold or fungus to me but how? I just wiped the glass! (I had to put my hand up to get the camera to focus on the glass.)
  18. Hi guys I posted another topic about my bba and stag horn issue. So I did some research (aquarium co-op videos lol) about balancing nutrients and lighting so I did my weekly water change yesterday but for I did it I tested the nitrates they were at 40 ppm but I dosed the tank with easy green the day prior.then like I said I did my water change and dosed with easy green and this morning I tested the nitrates and they were at 20 ppm.now my actual question is are my light times and power levels to high still. I have been gradually decreasing time and levels every two weeks. Now I know Corey said nitrates should stay around 40 so I wonder if I need to dim the lights and lessen the time or just add more ferts? I also have root tabs in under the sword as well.so that this is so long and all over the place. And here’s a photo on what exactly my light is on and the tank it’s self. Thanks everyone
  19. I have some Ammannia Gracilis that has beard algae problems. They are they only plants in my tank to have a problem with beard algae. Seriously- it affects no other plants. It's pain because I keep having to trim off chunks of the plant to fight the evil badness. Y'all reckon that I am better off just ripping the plants out and buying new ones? I'd gladly pay a few bucks not to have to deal with it.
  20. The top of my decor and front and back aquarium glass had what was either black algae or black mold on it. My water levels are on point, the best it’s ever been and my temp is right where it should be. It’s a 50 gallon tank. I do 15 to 20% water changes every week cause my zombie fish is a dirty gold fish. Today I took all the decor out cleaned it, did a 50% water change. Why would this be growing in my tank that bad? It was black. The tank is by a couple windows but no direct sunlight to the tank and at night I do turn the light on for a couple hours. The light is a fluorescent bulb, could this cause it and if so what is the best light to use or does it not need light? Thank you for any help! kelly
  21. Hi everyone! I've been battling BBA for the last month or so and got to thinking about temperature fluctuation. I'll share my setup below, but my question is more general (I know what kicked off my BBA hahaha). Will a few degrees of temperature fluctuation in a high-tech tank cause CO2 levels to fluctuate enough to cause algae? I've got a 90g tank with an Eheim 200W thermostat connected to an external controller. The target temperature is 73-75 fahrenheit and the controller will only power the thermostat to get the tank back up to 75 if it falls below 73. I think it takes about 2 hours to go from 73 to 75, but I haven't timed it (I'm sure it's over an hour). Me and the fish have been happy with the gentile rise and fall of the temps and reduced wear and tear on the thermostat, but I'm not sure if I'm making things harder on myself with the fluctuations.
  22. What fish is good for eating black beard algae? I have a ton growing in my 20 gallon community tank
  23. So starting like 5 months ago I had a medium plant load in the aquarium using an old florescent tank light and the marineland advanced LED light on my 40 breeder, and both were on a timer. I was dosing 4 pumps as directed of easy green a week and weekly water changes. I started noticing black spots on the hardscape and didn't think much of it. fast forwarding 4 months BBA and BGA have now infested my tank and my tank is also heavily planted. Now after christmas this year I got a fluval 3.0 and set it to the day cycle as provided by Bently Pascoe, and my marine land goes on for 4 hours when the fluval is at it's peak of strongest light for my Montecarlo and pearlweed. I know that with the consistent dosing and lighting there really is one variable which is the plant growth itself, causing deficiency on nutrients in the water column. I've been trying to bomb the tank with nutrients the last two days with 10 pumps of easy green. I still can't even get to 5ppm of N. I don't know what to do and I am getting tired of fighting algae Plants: Monte Carlo, over a dozen crypts, Red pearl Amazon sword, mult. stems of pearlweed, Italian and leopard Val, Bolbitis, 4 bunches of Anubias nana petite, 2 Normal anubias nana, 2 fist fulls of Golden Loydellia, Dwarf Sag. and finally one smaller clump of Java Fern. Fish: 7 inch Poly teug. (will be moving to 210 once the tank is set up) 4 inch Poly Ornate (will be moving to 210 once the tank is set up) 2x 3 Inch Angels (breeding pair) 1 SAE and a mating pair of Kribensis
  24. I have a 50 gallon freshwater aquarium that has been established for 15 years and recently decided to move from the plastic plants to live plants. I bought several Java and Anubias from the Aquarium Coop along with a bottle of the Easy Green. The plants have been in the aquarium for 6-8 weeks and the plants appear to be doing pretty well. The fish seem to really enjoy swimming through the live plants especially the Java Ferns. The Java Fern Windelov has started to show signs of hair algae on the ends of the plants. The fish have been nibbling at it and I cut back the length of the lights from 14 hours to around 10 hours and that seems to be keeping it at bay. It has not shown up on the other plants either. I checked for nitrates and they were running between 25 and 50 with 0 Nitrites. I use a Fluval filter with biological treatment and filtration and have not lost a fish in over a year. What should the nitrates be running when I am also adding 5 pumps of Easy Green per week for my 50 gallon aquarium? Should I add less Easy Green to reduce the nitrates? Appreciate any advice for this newby.
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