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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Such a beautiful building, what an amazing vacation spot. Please have such a wonderful time. Take lots of photos for us!
  2. nabokovfan87
    Here is Colu's post regarding betta treatment for Dropsy:
  3. nabokovfan87
    This might be of some help here. The black area on the head is about the only symptom for what this person dealt with.
  4. nabokovfan87
    The flow may just be too much for the fish. Hopefully things improve though. As mentioned it's a really tough one. If you have any, be sure to start by adding a catappa leaf.
  5. nabokovfan87
    It's hard to say. Just as a general help when you're trying to ID something, the vertical video makes it really hard to see what is going on because it sends out a really low resolution. What I see in the video is just a really stressed out fish. It might be trying to stay on the substrate, but the more active fish may be freaking it out. The color on the fish looks a little pale or bland and I do see something hanging from the anus, but it's hard to see the details. I don't have a ton of experience with gourami and their behavior. I am unsure if they are salt sensitive or which course of action is best for this. To start, hold back food for at least ~5 days to see if the fish can clear whatever internally is going on. If you can, I would move him to QT with a sponge filter and a little easier flow and see how the behavior of the fish is. I would start with aquarium salt, if safe, and catappa leaves. By the time that is going, hopefully someone can chime in as to what you're dealing with or indications on how to move forward as well as if the salt is a good idea. Water parameters and the setup seem fine, so it's difficult to say what is going on.
  6. nabokovfan87
    It looks like waterspots on the outside of the glass.... if I had to guess. I honestly don't know what that is. The pattern is weird for it to be algae or hard water.
  7. nabokovfan87
    This is why the common advice is to get the "next size up" when you get your filtration. The goal is to have adjustability on the flow side or at least a method where you can temper the output flow if you need to. Eheim is supposed to have info on their website that pondguru is always referencing for stocking recommendations on the filter. When it comes to certification of products it's kind of a joke that they don't test with a complete unit and the industry really should require better for itself. Maybe there is a pump / size equivalent you can use off a reference with their data to sanity check the setup.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Email the manufacturer of the diffuser as well. Show them what's going on. It very well could be a defect, but the goal there is to make sure you're able to get proper support from their side. Looks like a CO2Art one and they have amazing support too. This.... Make sure it's on the right line. Verify per the install videos or paperwork that every little thing is setup right.
  9. nabokovfan87
    I nominate @Chick-In-Of-TheSea's ladder for water changes too.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Looks awesome. Nice work!
  11. nabokovfan87
    Try sending it to YouTube then linking it. (I see you got it up there so that's cool) If you're talking something contagious yes, but I don't know that this would be something that is. It could be anything from bacterial issues internally all the way to internal worms. The usual comment here about QT and the meds that aquarium coop recommends in addition to salt can be used to full effect. The video what I can see is just a barb sitting in flow but it might be too much flow and stressing her out a little. You can pretty much dump in as much aeration as you feel like in this tank and the barbs would be happy as they can with it. So if you can, turn the flow down slightly, but also add an air stone just for the sake of this fish sitting in the oxygenated water. If you feel like you've already got enough bubbles going into the tank, I understand. That's just what I see. If you need to isolate this fish and proceed with treatment. I would start with the salt, air, catappa leaf if possible, and the maracyn. It may do nothing, but at least you'll be able to proceed towards something like internal worm treatments (paracleanse) with a little bit of confidence of the thorough job. If you opt for an Epsom salt bath for this fish, just avoid using aquarium salt right now. Focus on the aeration and clean water when doing the epsom baths.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Hopefully it's ok. Corydoras can do the same thing with their noses and being a bit too aggressive. Usually some salt+air and it clears up a lot of things. Happy to hear and see the better visuals today, despite and graffiti on the ferns in the back. 😂
  13. nabokovfan87
    1. Level the stand, find a good location. 2. Add the tank, check again. 3. Add in the substrate, some of the decor and work on that aspect. 4. Add some water, check again. (1/3 full, 1/2 full, then when full) 5. Add in air or filtration, something to move water. 6. Wait a few days, get rid of all the bubbles on the glass. 7. Add in bacteria or just wait. Do a water change, add in plants when the tank is drained. 8. Fill it up and let it run a bit more. 9. Add in some food to start cycling the plant, add the background, check light settings. 10. Check the water parameters, add in some food every few days. If I look at the tank and visually see food then I assume filtration is not adequate. 11. Patience, wait, monitor. 12. Add in a single or a very small amount of fish. Keep testing over the next week, daily.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Plus wood. There's a lot at play and it may all just balance out in the end!
  15. nabokovfan87
    Mountain stone. Elephant skin stone. Rhino stone. Seiryu stone, grey aquascaping stone, etc. They all could be the exact same stone depending on what you're talking and from who. They come in different shapes, get called one thing, etc. It's not like we are saying this is "granite" but everything is under some form of marketing terminology or Japanese word translated poorly. So... All that to say, yes they all would or COULD impact water parameters. If I drop a pebble in the ocean it won't do much. If I add a cup of water to a gallon of stone it will definitely be a bit calcium rich. Ultimately, pick something you enjoy visually and then get the tank going. see what exactly is going on with the water after cycling and then we can talk fish. Some species enjoy 6.8-7.4 while another family of fish might do best at 7.0-8.0. It's not going to be something where you can say 6-8 for PH alright cool. There is always a range of things that fit. The goal is to make the Hobby enjoyable, fun, relaxing, and something where you want to wake up every day and be in awe of your tank. Whether that takes one amazing stone or 100 of them is all relative. This is my tank this morning. Not a ton of stone. But I'm finally happy with how that stuff on the right looks. I might move it, but at least it's better than it was.
  16. nabokovfan87
    My tanks don't get water dripped back in and I do 50% changes. Definitely don't do what I do. I share it simply to encourage that there is a lot we still don't understand about shrimp care. The 30% comes from MSTs videos. I'm sure you could fit more anubiad in there! 😉 I also like java ferns and bolbitus heteroclita with plant weights at the base. All of those you can get from the big box store. My plant weights I got from aquarium Coop
  17. nabokovfan87
    Depending on what you're dealing with specifically you shouldn't ever need any sort of a PH buffer. Again, KH buffer has some use case, PH buffer is just a premixed KH buffer. I wouldn't use anything. I would control stuff via water changes. Do your normal maintenance and see what the tank parameters are.
  18. nabokovfan87
    From the planet catfish page: The species description notes the Tapajós and Jamanxim are clear water rivers and the specimens were collected in moderate to fast flowing waters, over a rocky bottom. The fish is commonly found in surprisingly still water usually over rocks. Maybe it's just a matter of oxygenation. Hopefully a positive update today.
  19. nabokovfan87
    The PH is a factor of waste and KH. More waste, uses the KH, which causes the PH to drop. If the KH is lessened slightly using the buffer mentioned, that lets you control that KH level a lot easier. The nice thing about the acid buffer is that you can control it by 1 degree very easily. What Newbie mentions is very true and the important thing here. Focus on KH as a means to evaluate your PH.
  20. nabokovfan87
    More plants over time will definitely help. I would recommend a minimum of 30% water changes every time you change water. Keep the floaters thinned out to encourage the growth of the plants inside the tank at depth. This was a tip from Filipe and one I think a lot of us overlook. Entirely normal and a very good sign she was able to molt. This means she didn't hold the eggs at the cost of herself, which will get her back on pace for the next time she's berried. A lot of times the shrimp will force themselves to wait too long. That is awesome and very exciting. Very exciting to see more of the setups and how it changes over time. 🙂
  21. nabokovfan87
    If the container of food has been open for 2 months you'll likely want to replace it. Feeding expired food can result in bacterial disease for the fish. Typically you'd only want to feed for ~30 days. I can't say what the longest timeline would be in terms of safety for the fish. Let's assume worst case scenario and it wasn't kept properly and the food is off.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Very difficult to see anything. Yet of course, I'm pretty sure I got those same things jumping around my tank too. Maybe this is what it is?
  23. nabokovfan87
    You always add the dechlorinator per size of the tank when you are adding the water directly to the tank itself. If your setting up a "mixing station" then you'd add the dechlorinator per size of water holding container. As for the bacteria products, the smaller size bottle I will just add it daily until the bottle is empty. If you have the larger size with the intention of having some on hand, follow the treatment for 7 days and then monitor the tank parameters. If they are consistently poor, then you need to fix filtration and run it for an additional 7 days.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I use a "hallway table" as a side table to the side of the tank for tools or plants (or jars) and it has a little elevated base. Some of the stands have a shelf. You can also use a box or something. If the floor gets wet though, the box will hold that moisture unfortunately. Towel with cardboard on it. Or a piece of rubber mat.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Aqueon's have the pump in the tank and it goes up into that section, then left to right. It should be perfectly fine to use the space (or put it in the chamber on the right) as long as you keep an eye out for something like detritus building up and raising the water level. As long as it doesn't splash, displace too much water in the chamber, or clog --> flood then you're ok.
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