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andieb's Achievements


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  1. She was just swimming frantically at the surface, and was really uncoordinated, and now she's lying on her side at the bottom and her gills aren't moving anymore so I think maybe it was too late for her 😞
  2. Thanks so much @Colu for identifying what it is. I quarantined the fish in a large Tupperware with water from the main tank, sand substrate and an extra sponge filter from a cycled tank. Unfortunately the fish store was closing so I had to make a decision before I got to read your response, so my apologies for seeming to not take your advice, I definitely would have if I could have. They didn't have much available and nothing with kanamycin. I ended up getting methyl blue and I did a 10 second dip at 50 ppm then returned the fish to the QT. If he's still alive tomorrow morning, should I do another dip? Thank you for your help @Colu and sorry again for not being able to take your advice, I hate to ask for advice and then not take it.
  3. My fish's face seems to have a really bad injury or fungal infection and I'm not sure how to treat her, any advice would be really appreciated! It's a Corydoras habrosus, I've had her for ~6 months I think. I had them on a mix of CaribSea Super Naturals Sunset Gold and Moonlight sand in part of the tank and Fluval Stratum in the back half of the tank. But I had switched the sand to Quickrete play sand maybe 3 months ago, then noticed some of my corys' barbels were waring so about 2 months ago, thinking it was the substrate change, I switched back to straight CaribSea Super Naturals Moonlight. I can go to the aquarium store tonight to pick up what ever treatment you guys have had luck with. I live in Canada though so some treatments are not available here so it would be really helpful if you could let me know any medical ingredients that work, so I can look for meds that are available here that have the same medical ingredient. I've heard that Aquarium Salt works well but I've also heard that corydoras are sensitive to it. I have Pimafix but I hate that stuff, but if others have had good luck with it with a similar infection, I'll give it another try. I set up a Tupperware tub with sand and some plant cover and a bubbler that I could move the fish into to treat her, if you guys think that's the right thing to do. Water Parameters: pH: 7.2 Nitrates: Almost 0 Hardness: Hard - Very Hard (150) Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 KH/Buffer: 80 ppm Water Temperature: 77.5 F Thank you for any and all help/advice you can offer!!
  4. Thanks so much guys, Just wanted to make sure, but got a good laugh too.
  5. Hi there! Happy Friday! I was just wondering if this level of plumpness is healthy... This is one of my female honey gouramis: And this is a female corydoras habrosus: Both fish are acting completely normal and have been this level of plump for about 2 months for the gourami and about 4 months for the cory. I just want to make sure everything ok to prevent things from going south. Am I feeding too much? Or could it be a disease? I feed about a pinch of food twice a day. Most common things I feed are Spirulina Bug Bites or Bottom Feeder Formula. I also feed Omega shrimp pellets, algea wafers once or twice a week, and ~once a week or two weeks I feed tubefex worms, and once a month I feed frozen baby brine shrimp. Thank you!
  6. Hi @Breezy! To clarify, do you have corydoras pygmaeus or corydoras habrosus? I ended up losing 4 habrosus total to fungus and lethargy, so I only have 4 left but they've been healthy since. I have 2 females, which are very large and round, and two males, which are small and slender, almost half the size of the females. All are similar colour, however the turn pail when they're stressed. When ever they're pail, I try to figure out what could be causing it. I never found out for sure what caused the first 4 to die or why the remaining 4 survived, but I made some changes to my set up to try to stop the deaths. These are the changes I made: - I added a small sponge filter to help cycle the water down near the substrate - Gravel vac the substrate really carefully every week - Turned the temp down to 76 C since fungus grows more at higher temps - Added aragonite to my filter to stabilize the pH Ultimately tho, my theory for what happened was that this species is just really delicate and sensitive to changes in water parameters. If you also have habrosus, it's possible that the smaller ones are males and the bigger ones are females, but my males and females are the same colour. I'm not sure why yours might be dying but here are some thoughts. Check their barbels to make sure they aren't worn down. If the barbels are worn down, it could interfere with feeding and might explain why some of yours are small and maybe the one died from not getting enough food. Do you have swings in your parameters? Like for example, does your pH change gradually between water changes? When you do a water change does your pH change? What is your KH? How much do your nitrates increase between water changes? I suggest trying 2-3 tsp of aragonite in your filter if your KH is low and your pH is swinging. If you're nitrates go above 10-20 between water changes I would say, either do more frequent water changes or try adding seachem stability, water lettuce or other plants that are known for taking up a lot of nitrates.
  7. Thanks for your replies and for all the pics of your honey gouramis, they are the absolute cutest. It's so nice to meet some of the other honey gourami people on here! @Hobbit Literally everything you described your fish doing, down to the female being the one who's aggressive over food, is the same as my fish. MAJOR UPDATE. I think you were correct, that she possibly ate the nest. Because today: He built a new bubble nest!!! This was not here yesterday when I fed dinner. He's trying to coax her towards it right now, but she's very cautious to follow him into his side of the tank and keeps turning back. Thanks for your recommendation, I'll follow your advice and do a bit of rescapement before the next spawn 😎 I also will ask my sister to come every day next time I'm away so the fish don't get so hungry. 55 gal is my dream set up, I'd have all the same tiny fish as now but just with so much more room. And I agree 100% that honey gouramis are insanely smart. That's actually why I chose them. In videos, you can see them inspecting things and thinking. Plus where my other fish are skittish around me, the gouramis learned super quickly that I feed them and I'm no harm. They're not scared at all, even when I'm gravel vaccing they chase the bits of debris going up the vac tube. I adore them. Here they are back in the day when they *mostly* got along:
  8. Yes, I'd love to get a second opinion... obviously would be thrilled if the solution was to get another female... but gotta be responsible. This is just a thought I had about honey gourami aggression... Wild-Type females are pail yellow/silver to grey/brown, with a fairly solid brown stripe down their side. According to wikipedia the two colour varieties "sunset" and "gold" are selectively bred, not occurring in nature. I was sold the "gold" variety. Here are pics of my female and male, and a pic of a wild-type female honey grouami. The biggest difference between the wild-type and "gold" variety is in the female in my opinion. She's way more bright yellow/gold then the wild-type female and brown stripe is faint, and usually completely disappears when she's not stressed or interacting with the male. Anyways, I specialized in animal behaviour in my undergrad and one of the studies we read about was in sticklebacks, where mature males develop bright red underparts. Anyways, a behaviourist was keeping sticklebacks and noticed that every morning they'd all go nuts at the side of the tank facing the window. He realized that the fish were seeing the mail truck outside, which was red. He tested them with other red objects and found that the colour red triggered aggression in the male sticklebacks. The theory is that male sticklebacks evolved to associate red with rival males. When I first got my fish, I found it really hard to sex them. As they've gotten older the male developed black underparts, but the female looks largely the same and kind of looks like a juvenile male wild-type honey grouami. Maybe male honey gouramis use the brown line and lack of yellow to distinguish females from rival males. At least to me, she looks more like a male than the females he's evolved to recognize. He might be mistaking her for a male and her manish good looks are making him angry? Has anyone observed more male->female aggression in gold honey gouramis compared to wild-types? Sorry for the long post... I just find this stuff cool.
  9. Thanks for your reply. There are a lot of floating plants, red root floaters and water lettuce. Maybe I'll try to find some other plants, like purple camboba that might break up the line of sight in the tank a bit better. The only other thing in the tank is 4 corydoras habrosus (I will get more, just Covid-19 is causing stock from South American to be limited at least there I live). Would adding a third gourami be a bad idea?
  10. Hm I have a 20 gal long, could I fit another female honey gourami and would the tank still be nice and spacious for them? Do you think that would decrease the aggression? Why/how does adding another female decreases the aggression? Sorry so many questions, just a little a lot worried for her!
  11. Hi guys, I'm so sad. I have a male and female pair of honey gouramis. The male has always chased the female around but he's never hurt her before and he'd usually stop once she got over to "her side of the tank". I was having to feed them on opposite sides of the tank though because they can get territorial over food and the male started to "patrol" the place where I was feeding them before. However, most the time they co-existed together peacefully and they were doing spawning behaviour almost every day. I don't think they ever actually spawned though since they're still growing up. I went to my cottage this past weekend from Thursday night - Sunday night and had my sister come feed the fish on Saturday afternoon. When I got home, right away I noticed that everyone in the tank was very pail, even the male gourami, and the female gourami had injuries. I tried to include the best pictures I could take to show you the injuries. They don't appear to be life threatening, but a second opinion would be good cause I'm inexperienced. She has what looks like bruising or missing scales around her eye and missing scales on her back. Now that I've fed them 3 times since getting back, everyone is back to their normal colours. The female seems ok, but she's been hiding a lot. Because the male was never violent before, could it just be that maybe the stress of going hungry might have caused him to be more aggressive? I checked carefully and he doesn't have a bubble nest that I can see. Should I wait and see if things calm down or should I remove the female as soon as possible? I can move her to a 10 gal tank that just contains apple snails and plecos right now, but I'd rather do that only as a last resort because the gouramis bite the apple snail's antenna and the tank has higher current than is ideal for gouramis. Thanks for you input!
  12. I like the tetra idea. Another option for a centre piece fish is a group of pearl gourmis. They might be too small though... but if I had a bigger tank, that's what I'd want. I love putting smaller fish in a big tank, especially things like gourmis cause I love seeing them explore every part of the tank. An option for the corys is corydoras julii, I think they're so cute and pretty. Your theme could be spots maybe lol
  13. Thanks so much! Sorry to hear about your losses but glad to hear that your newest additions are doing well. That's interesting to hear that maybe the instability was the problem, and that would make sense in my case because my pH kept steadily decreasing between water changes but now that I added the aragonite the pH has been dead-on. I also added water lettuce which has kept nitrates consistently super low. I'm planning to add more habrosus, and this time I'll try adding them straight to my established tank and see how they do. Thanks again!
  14. I agree with the comments above that I think your snail would benefit from more calcium. I don't have any experience with supplimenting snail diet, but I've heard they make calcium rich foods that you could try. I do have experience with changing water chemistry to better suit snails though. Your water is soft and slightly acidic, and your KH is on the lower side. This has two consequences: 1. Low KH means that dissolved calcium in the water is probably low and 2. KH buffers/stabilizes pH, so it's possible that your pH might dip down even lower at times. Those conditions might be causing his new shell growth to be thinner than the old growth and it might be causing those little white dots on his shell, which look like pits where his shell has been dissolved slightly because of low pH. I had similar issue in my tank with low KH and unstable/low pH with apple snails. I tried a couple things, 1. cuttlebone - would not recommend, it stunk like dead fish if it wasn't completely submerged but that was hard cause they float but many people recommend it and say that snails will actually eat it. 2. Aragonite or crushed coral (basically straight calcium carbonate) - I'm using aragonite right now to increase my KH and stabilize the pH, it hasn't really increased the pH but it's increased the KH from 0 to 60 ppm KH (which is still considered low) and my pH is much more stable now. In my snail tank, I just put a sprinkling of aragonite on the substrate (no more than a couple teaspoons at first since adding too much can increase pH too much. An even better way is to add the aragonite in a filter bag to your filter that way you can remove it if it's increasing you pH too much for your other tank inhabitants. I add a little more as it dissolves and as I can gauge how much it's increasing the KH/pH. Hope that helps! Apple snails are honestly the best.
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