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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    I see fin rot here on this corydoras, potentially body rot. Aeration (air stone) + Aquarium salt (1/3-cup per 10G or 1 TBSP per 2G) and either Kanaplex or Neoplex would be the treatment for this guy. You'd be treating the tank as much as the fish, just something to keep in mind. It will very likely take 2 rounds of kanaplex. Something like Catappa leaves would help as well with any secondary fungal issues if they crop up. I will try to find / link a relevant thread for this issue. @AllFishNoBrakes had a similar issue with their pleco and may be able to advise as well! Digging in some of the other threads, it looks like the same dose of salt is recommended for the cyst on the pleco as well.
  2. nabokovfan87
    This might be a bit confusing, but let's give it a shot. P = primary stones S = secondary stones A = accent stones I believe he discuses the method in this video below, I'll try to triple check it's there, but I will try to elaborate a bit as well with a quote as well as a sort of visual sketch. I've tried to "queue up" every video so it starts right when the rocks are placed. Example of placement of the "primary stone" (basically 1:3 or slightly off-center is the common "placement" used) Now...... I am not going to say "follow these rules!" or anything like that. It's just a note about visually what is the most interesting stone for me and placement of the "primary stone" in the tank, then building around that. You can see videos by Tomas / Filipe about placing that first stone (primary stone) and then how everything flows off of that in the layout. I would try a layout just to see what it looks like where you place that primary stone in "the right spot" in a direction you enjoy seeing it. Then I would take those two secondary stones and see if there is a place for them that looks good. Then try the accent stones. You can see all of the remaining ones as "detail stones" and as pieces you may or may not end up using. Here' another example in various hardscapes of Filipe's work. Another.... Primary stone in place Primary stone in location / secure: Secondary stones in place: Detail stones added: Detail stones / final adjustments Planted: I love that too. I wish it was more of a focal visually from sitting in front of the tank!
  3. nabokovfan87
    That is awesome. Wonderful to hear! Be sure to keep an eye on your water test results!
  4. nabokovfan87
    @tillimon welcome. Is it possible to upload the full size images? These ones seem to be very small and low resolution. If the growth is smooth and not "fluffy" like a cotton ball you're likely dealing with a bacterial issue or cyst of some kind.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Is there farmland nearby that could contribute to pesticides in your water change? Yes there is carbon canisters in the filtration, but potentially something leaked through or the canister is expired?
  6. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for your struggles and loss @JohnNYC. It is an unfortunately common experience and sometimes we the hobbyist just feel at a loss. I have been in the same situation before and had to go through the anguish of that choice. It isn't ever going to be an easy one, but the suffering on the fish's part is no more, thankfully. It's a tough hobby at times. Hopefully we can get you on the side of enjoyment in future. Chin up.... try to stay positive.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Must be the fiber! Very weird. 😂
  8. nabokovfan87
    adding any meds and or salt, you want to always add an airstone. Let us know how it goes.
  9. nabokovfan87
    One thing to note here is your PH. I cannot say it caused any issues and some corydoras are kept in higher PH. However, if the PH is too high and causing stress you'll see redness on the body and this is something I did notice on my own corydoras panda as well as amano shrimp. This also could've been an isolated incident because the KH/PH swung way too hard in my tank too quickly. Secondarily, given the first photo, what is your substrate that you're using in this tank with these corydoras? Please let us know your KH, GH, and temperature as well if possible.
  10. nabokovfan87
    ^^ So the fuzzy thing looks like a fungal infection on the wound. (Salt+ich-x for that) The tail rot issue and general fin stuff you should be able to get away with a decent dose of salt to clear that, but it's extremely likely....if things get any worse.... That you'd be reaching for a gram negative antibacterial medication like kanaplex or neoplex. I mention this only in the case you need to order some in. I like @Beardedbillygoat1975 guideline of using the meds above plus oxygenation! For a non-medicated dose, if that is something you want to start with, you can try catappa leaves (or alder cones) with salt (1/3-cup per 10G) and see if that cures anything. Reminder that some plants don't like salt! Given the fuzz and the fins I think doing a round with the above 2 items as well as ich-x, paracleanse, and your bacterial medication. There should be no real issues with doing those at the same time apart from the directions discrepancy between paracleanse and/or the bacterial medication. You might need to water change on one day when the other days not to, etc.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Have you done any salt treatment? Is there any chance you can move the fish out of the tank, even into a tub or bucket? Or a tote?
  12. nabokovfan87
    I had to do the same. I didn't realize I was out until I went to add the big dose to the shrimp initially. I also might have to modify / work on directions based on weight and not based on volume. Salt is salt until it's not the same salt and then you're arguing semantics of how "rounded" the spoon is and it's just not a fun time. Given that we both know shrimp (neos) can be very sensitive to this stuff, yeah.... Kind of need some precision!
  13. nabokovfan87
    Less is more and I could say it a million different ways. Make life easier on yourself..... Nothing under 15G, 20G preferred, just for the sake of having dilution and room to work. Something where you can easily change water on multiple tanks at once and fill them easily is best! If you can have a rack or a section with 2-3 stands, then by all means that is "optimal" in my view. It would be so much easier for you if you had certain tools, if you had the ability to have a single 40B for instance, but I understand that just isn't in the cards. I would highly encourage you to reduce tanks or work within what is already optional. Get your rainbow or choice going and fight every single urge to add more tanks. There's nothing that says you can't have rainbows+corydoras breeding in the same tank. There's honestly too much going on in this tank for me. I think it's hard for species to thrive and behavior to be normal when you have so many species in such a tight space. That sword takes up a lot of real estate, could be thinned out, but the main thing is to just figure out if it's a gourami tank, a rainbow tank, or a community setup and not meant as a breeding for profit.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Cc @Fish Folk Aquascape I am unsure. I don't see any issues with the planned stocking. It sounds like a wonderful setup.
  15. nabokovfan87
    If you put it down all the way, does she lay in the sink?
  16. nabokovfan87
    Honestly, don't make it too difficult on yourself. Find a single piece of hardscape that you like or find some variety of rocks that you enjoy and purchase some. This could be a single lava rock or 2-3. Just find something you enjoy. When you add it to the tank, don't overthink it.... just do what seems appealing and adds interest. I've had many tanks with just a chunk of mopani and a lava rock and I love the way it looks. Ultimately, it's your tank and your slice of the hobby to enjoy it. I promise you, it isn't as difficult as you think to get something that looks "nice".
  17. nabokovfan87
    IDK how you got the sheet on without the cat getting underneath. We both know that cat will be there for hours and very happy with itself.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I'll let you know how round #2 goes for me. I would try to do the 1 tbsp / 5G in a bucket if you can (or tub) just for the sake of seeing what that dose does to SJ. If anything, for science so we know if it's feasible at all. I dosed in more salt this morning. I am HOPING that it's all preventative at this point and I've done well enough removing molts. I need to get more salt, thankfully I had enough on hand this time around.
  19. nabokovfan87
    The fish almost looks like it has a damaged spine. I don't see any harm in continuing treatment @MrGrieves
  20. nabokovfan87
    You can add fish food as an ammonia source. That's awesome though, watch it! Wonderful video.... ask many questions. 🙂
  21. nabokovfan87
    We can't share competitor links and such on the forums, but yes there is a place I can send your way. I'll get you a DM.
  22. nabokovfan87
    MSDS from Gorilla: "Gorilla Super Glue" "Gorilla Super Glue Brush" "Gorilla Super Glue Gel" It looks like everything under the Gorilla brand termed "super glue" is CA glue (i.e. cyanoacrylate)
  23. nabokovfan87
    @GisheryGoodness how long has the tanks in question been setup? What is the substrate specifically being questioned here? Any chance we can get a photo to see if it's really broken down soil? An example of soil I would not try to reuse:
  24. nabokovfan87
    Sending you a DM @CatherineD
  25. nabokovfan87
    You can have a tank made for fry (in your case), but your setup is such a way that you don't need the parents to care for the fry. You can pull the rock to a tank that's ready to go and then they will hatch. You're the parents at that point. There are hang-on breeder boxes and egg tumblers. I would opt for just moving the rock as opposed to moving the eggs off the rock into the tumbler. This is where having those tanks ready to go, barebottom with some wood or potted plants is going to be a successful tool that you have access to. Give the parents another try, play with things like having a night light vs. leaving the lights on and see if there's anything that helps. Each pair may have different needs and it's pretty common to need to give fish a few chances to raise the fry. When they are guarding, give them time and give them low stress. Avoid shadows across the tank that look like predators swimming across the tank.
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