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Daniel

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Everything posted by Daniel

  1. The bigger piece looks like a scary arm with a scary hand!
  2. Adding some additional floating plants (like hornwort) would give additional refuge to the female and the fry.
  3. I think you are good in the 82°F to 84°F range . Heaters and thermometers have a lot of variation in accuracy. If I put three thermometers in a tank, I am almost certain to get 3 slightly different readings. Likely the average of the 3 is more accurate than any one. So heating in the range your thermometer indicates even with the ups and downs will help disrupt the ich lifecycle.
  4. I have been waiting for this green hair algae to grow in. So often I read, oh no, I have algae or I have tannins or mulm. Most of these are found in the waters where our fish come from, so why do these displease us? It probably come down to tidiness or a sense of order. We want that tidy perfectly manicured lawn with mat grasses from Asia and Africa. But a native meadow has both chaos and beauty. There are more niches and more interactions when we loosen our grip slightly and enjoy nature as she paints with a more subtle hand. Sometimes we act as heavy-handed maladroit deities of our aquatic worlds with only casual curiosity of the biological dance playing out before us. Should something new and natural appear our first impulse is to destroy it. Our tanks should be beautiful to us. That is why we have them. But beauty is eye of the beholder and there is beauty in algae and tannin and mulm.
  5. Any mortality on the Black Neon Tetra fry?
  6. I don't think it really matters. Both work just fine. The most important thing is to get healthy well conditioned fish. And I agree with everyone one above on not chasing water parameters.
  7. I use 3 Kessil a360X Tuna Sun LED lights with the narrow reflector lenses to get good depth penetration These also give a good amount of shimmer with pronounced caustic lines (like you would see on the bottom of a swimming pool). The Kessils are similar to the metal halides I used to run over this tank, except that they are quieter, cooler, and use far less electricity. Their form factor is very small, the spectrum is plant friendly, and they are designed to be mounted over head. I haven't finished with my wire management yet, but nobody else seems to notice. You can daisy chain them together to function as a group and control them from a phone app
  8. My wife has her Peloton upstairs and the connection has been dropping. The bathroom at the other end of the house drifts in and out of connectivity. So your post above was timely. I just ordered these and look forward to being the hero who solved the connectivity problem!
  9. My recommendation for a stand alone controller is the JBJ True Temp Digital Controller. I have used these in the past with excellent success. But because I have a Neptune Apex controller system that is what I am using now. I wouldn't recommend this because it is very expensive. I purchased the Apex a while back to control pH in a discus tank, but it can control just about anything including heaters.
  10. As I read this I think, everyone knows that heaters are going to fail. Yep, 100% the heater will fail. I guess some people...oh wait..dang! I have 2 cheap heaters in aquariums right now. Are they hooked to a heater controller? No. I just removed them. Its probably better to have 74°F water than 90°F water. So much for any shred of smugness I may have had. This is a good reminder to stay humble. Live and learn.
  11. Great video! And thanks again to @Bill Smith for his useful invention!
  12. These are the live foods I use: Blackworms - 1/4 cup per day - I buy these from Eastern Aquatics 2 lbs per shipment - no work, but most expensive of all at $45 per pound Mosquito larva - about 3 tablespoons per day - I grow these in 10 five gallon buckets behind the garage Daphnia - about 1 tablespoon per day - Naturally occurring in a ditch in front of my house, I run the garden hose in the ditch to keep it from drying up if necessary. Whiteworms - about 1 tablespoon per day - purchased cultures on Aquabid and raise in Tupperware in a minifridge - much more maintenance than the above foods Baby brine shrimp - about 1 teaspoon per day - raise in 3 Imhoff cones - not much work, more than mosquito larva or Daphnia, but less than whiteworms
  13. Don't you just love surface tension? 🙂
  14. Very nicely aquascaped tank. I love bettas!
  15. I am too lazy to change candles and too risk adverse to run a bunsen burner under my aquarium. The tank moves between 72°F and 78°F each day which is a very, very good temperature range. My biggest problem now is what to do with a big hole in the bottom of my fish tank. I think the solution will be a big rubber stopper. I will just put substrate over the top of it so it won't be visible.
  16. The answer is that you would make a little dam of putty or clay and then pour in molten metal to make a mushroom like cap that could be used to transfer the heat from the flame of a bunsen burner.
  17. Sounds like chlorine. Like @HenryC I age my water first because 'raw' water is just that, raw. It is good to let the new water settle and let gas exchange happen before it goes into an aquarium. I know this feels hard right now especially if it is not clear that anything has been learned yet, but learning always seems hard (painful). The communication of your experience helps everyone in the long run.
  18. As you can see from this quote, a greenhouse or a warm room were common methods of heating an aquarium. Apparently so were closed loops heated by gas flame.
  19. Unfortunately, I have sign off for the night but I will post a diagram of the answer tomorrow.
  20. It involves actual fire! On a side note, Cory is working with the devs to fix the topic posting problem.
  21. Haha, yes. But how would this hole be part of heating the tank? It’s not like they could (or did) just shove a modern heater up through it?
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