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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. If you look up flip aquatics filters, you can mod the sponge that they use and not have to add in any glass. 2" sponge or 1-1/2" sponge works well to be a wall of sorts. You can glue foam together, but that might not be the best solution given the chemicals. You can also get something like a hot knife to cut the foam and that would make it easier to get.the shape you need. Starting with a thicker piece and just "butterfly it" so to speak so you can mold it a bit. Matalla mats and foam is also another option.
  2. Check out Coldwater aquatics on YouTube. Things like NANF species would be better fits for that setup, but it does depend on what the temps are in the summer too. I don't run heaters for a few months out of the year and you can get quality heaters as opposed to ones that tend to be prone to failure. Check out the fluval E-series and start there. Cory has a video on them from when the co-op sold them and I highly, highly recommend them. I use them as a floor because air temps can be in the 50s during the winter for me here. Cc @Fish Folk has a lot of NANF information and keeps some of those fish as well. A great resource if you're interested.
  3. I broke mine the first time I tried to clean the sponge. It "still worked" because of the magnets, but it didn't work for too long. They (Sicce) basically obsoleted this design and moved towards the newer one that looks boxy. I would start there and ignore the egg looking one. That being said, internal hang on aqueon filters have a ton of options as well to look into. Given that you want to have Corydoras with a Betta please keep in mind the temps and lean towards something like a sterbai or false Julii corydoras species.
  4. PH for me is near 7. KH is 60-80 and GH is as high as you can make it. They were perfectly fine in those conditions for a really long time. With any invertebrates, it's highly recommended to get a liquid GH and KH test kit.
  5. I've had some similar species pretty low, but not that low. I think in winter on a cold water change, I've had things at mid-high 60's, but pushing below 68 you can see some behavior where certain fish will start to go dormant and just sort of shut down. (speaking specifically of minnows, barbs, rasbora, etc.... cypranidae species)
  6. It must be Wednesday because I spent a bit of time with the shrimp. I took a bunch of photos, then I realized I should just do a video. I got that done and just sat to monitor for culling and check on the shrimplets and how the tank was really doing. I also wanted to show the moss wall and the shrimp being a bit nuts on it already. I think apart from a feeding dish, might be the one thing I really recommend for shrimp in a community tank setup. They get some cover and places to graze where fish just don't really interact with. Also some fun watching Riddick go a bit nuts this morning and just cruising around. Music will get there when youtube decides to hit the go button.
  7. Yes. It also can add stress which would lead to some immunity issues potentially happening. Sort of like a nagging cough would be the analogy. Maybe you'll check on them and not see any issues, but then they might be bloated or something one day. It's tough to say. I am sure they are more adaptable to a range, likely hobbyist bred and not wild caught, but it's just something to consider. What does the tank look like? From my limited experience barbs like to swim to/through something. They like to have a direction to go and have a place to travel around. Longer tanks tend to be best because it gives direction and distance for them to explore. Things like hardscape, wood, and plants really help to give them that. In the 75 it's a bit tougher because of the height, but letting the plants grow tall won't be a bad idea. In a different tank, same thing. When my tank got ich I lost a lot of my barbs. It was a tough disease because it was tough to hold the heat up for the extended period and let the medication treat the cysts. That being said, I would limit it to 76 as best you can. 78+ is really pushing it. Anything above that I just don't really recommend. Co-op care guide mentions 82 as a max temp. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/tiger-barb
  8. Most cypranidae will enjoy cooler, highly oxygenated water. So if you ever increase temps on them, then you'd want to add air to help out keep that oxygenation high. As temps rise, oxygenation falls. Temporarily, like during a summer heatwave, most of the times they can handle a bit of a temperature boost. You might see them stay towards the bottom of the tank where the temperature is cooler or you might see them sit in the high flow spots. If we say 78 is "normal" range for things like tetras and "normal" range is 72-74 for something like barbs, 76 is generally advised as the medium there. Given the stocking, I think most everything in there works at the 74 range except for the kuhli loaches. Clowns, if you get them too cold then you end up with things like ich showing up. It's a scaleless fish and so that all plays a factor in the stress factors and care requirements. I would lean towards removing the kuhli and replacing them with a species of corydoras or something else that fits the range you're looking at keeping. Range from the co-op on kuhli gives 74 as a minimum. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/care-guide-for-kuhli-loaches
  9. It may not be worth it. This is a big media bag with the zeolite and you can see the cost. The bag I got was something like $2-3 with a very good quality media bag and I got it literally just for the media bag. Just something to consider, check out the sales and prices, especially this line where it comes in the bag already. No idea at all if it can be recharged, but just another option. Seachem Laboratories 6515 375 ml 110 Tidal Zeolite Filter https://a.co/d/iWMwSGW
  10. They sell it for the hobby too. That video is of a pond style of zeolite. I have some of this on hand: There's stuff sold under the term of De-nitrite too:
  11. You should follow the directions on the box. The directions Irene gave is based on the QT Trio from Aquarium Co-Op. That is for what is called preventative treatment. This isn't preventative as we know the fish is actively undergoing something and you're *actively* trying to cure them. Bacterial meds are treated over several days and take time to build up to a certain level. So the repeated doses is pretty critical in circumstances like this.
  12. Dan has a lot of cool fish, very interesting selections AND an amazing livestream. If you're curious, it's worth the watch just to have that knowledge shared. I'm sure some people will make their way there. I cannot imagine a better partnership in the fishy industry than Co-Op and Dan.
  13. Given the source, yeah. I got my pandas from the big box store as well and meds is generally a good idea given the fish care. You're showed signs of issues, so it's does make sense for me to just go ahead and give them the best chance moving forward. Maracyn especially is pretty easy and mild in terms of treatment.
  14. For some of the resins I've heard of using salt solution, that goes into the pellets, then the salt is replaced with minerals and that softens your water. It could just be for that particular application of the resin beads. I've never heard of being able to recharge zeolite. Ironically, first google search goes to an amazon page and just says: To reuse zeolite pellets, you must “recharge” them. To do this, add 1/4 cup of kosher salt per gallon of warm water. Dissolve the salt. Pick out and dispose of fecal matter and pour used pellets into saline solution.
  15. The standout line in the film for me, "I'm working for generations after me." It's kind of crazy to think a bit big picture on this one and to think of all the damage done during certain decades and how we are still trying to understand and recover some of those species (and their habitats). The 1960's was specifically mentioned here, and I'm sure it's not the only basin or environment with the story. One of the cool things is to see the generational work and the pride in that work for doing what feels like good work. One year they have 5 return, the next near 130. It's a big of a miracle how useful 4 tubs of water can be and a simple setup in the middle of a desert and it was really cool to see the impact of their setup. Hopefully there is some sort of a follow up piece in the future or further videos like this that we share as a part of this effort. I really enjoy stories like this and it's helpful to share what went wrong and the recovery efforts for those issues.
  16. I believe it's one of the main 3 that George Farmer uses in his main tank. Maybe it is a sword plant and not a crypt? Here is the full list for this tank:
  17. You can test with vinegar yes. I'm going to say 90% likelihood that it would impact GH and/or KH in the water.
  18. They used to have this available. It seems like it's much less available these days.
  19. Zeolite is a thing they use for removing ammonia or nitrite/nitrates in tanks. Zeolite can also be found in some cat litters. As far as absorbing ammonia, maybe that's the thing that is used? Purigen is a resin bead used in things like wastewater treatment. Small, spherical resin beads are packed in a “bed” inside the tank of a water softener. The resin beads hold a negative charge that will attract any positively charged ions. Edit: I checked the catbox thing. I saw a video of someone talking about the product refer to them as zeolite pellets. Maybe that is closer to what they are as opposed to purigen.
  20. They really should apply backgrounds for the contest or do something like rate it from both sides? That first photo, I can't imagine the color that the background would be, but having it without peoples legs would greatly improve the visual aesthetic! I love the idea of using watercolor as the background (or oil paintings). What a visually striking and really impactful piece of the design.
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