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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    I definitely only use total length. Very weird but I understand why SL exists (long fin species make things weird)
  2. nabokovfan87
    Any chance he jumped at the lid or something?
  3. nabokovfan87
    Feed them repashy before you go or a good dose of algae wafers and shrimp sticks. I wouldn't sweat it. They'll do well. Clean the tank before you go. No worries at all.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I imagine something along the lines of "a thingamabob that" but let's try to keep this going. What is something you specifically wish you could have to use in your aquarium keeping? For me.... Give me a spirulina version of vibrates and call them corydoras bites. If I can't get my old onip spirulina tabs, I need those to exist.
  5. nabokovfan87
    She looks as big as mine! That overhang both the rock, what sn awesome way to house that fish. I bet she loves it. Does yours patrol the tank at night and do a path around? (Usually a lap out and back into the cave, always facing the same way)
  6. nabokovfan87
    Very cool. I totally understand. Make due with what you can.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry about that. Next time you see her... I use a specimen container and cup my hand over em. Open one side and coax them into the container, then move them. Maybe that'll help you!? 🙂
  8. nabokovfan87
    40B / 75G with a ton of them is the best. I want to get a 60G lowboy, 12" tall and just have a 100 of them. Something real fun. Get a big pond style setup for corydoras. ONE DAY!
  9. nabokovfan87
    I found this, relevant to the question I had. I would enjoy setting this test up or understanding the science (math) behind it. Super interesting engineering problem so to speak. Especially if the target was 20C over ambient!
  10. nabokovfan87
    you can, there really shouldn't be a need to. If you have anything else to put the fish in you'll thank yourself. Maracyn especially is an intensive one and you're daily dosing for 5 days. 😞 I know I went through a lot of packets when I had my tank to treat. Maybe there is a sharp bit of gravel? the rocks seem ok. The wood should be ok. I had mine on sand, but I can't think that gravel is much of an issue because they'll be on the glass / rocks typically. Is there any chance a piece of glass got into the tank somehow? (I had a thermometer crack on me and a lid chip a piece before)
  11. nabokovfan87
    I encourage giant hordes of species only tanks of corydoras! Especially when you get to.... 30+ or around there they just really behave really well and have such interesting behaviors. 20-30+ of the same corydoras, one species in a tank, very fun tank.
  12. nabokovfan87
    "back in my day" LOL.... Parent's always know best, right? Needless to say, well done, you're doing everything right and it's cool to see the attention to detail and tracking you're doing. Welcome to the forums. Best of luck with amazing success in your tank!
  13. nabokovfan87
    Maybe something got caught on the skin at that spot when netting them? I've never seen that. I would try to move them to a specimen container and examine super close to see what you can see. This is about the "best" clear photo I can find. I'll try to find one with better focus on the nose section to see what we can see.
  14. nabokovfan87
    They sell mats for exercise equipment. Those would work as well underneath anything sharp / metal.
  15. nabokovfan87
    what does the rest of the tank look like? It's something where you'd likely want to move the fish to QT and treat with erythromycin (maracyn). You want to keep an eye out for a secondary fungal infection as well. The fish probably was climbing on a surface and got knicked or something.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Very unfortunate. Tetras would do better at that temp. I can't recall a bunch off the top of my head, but there are a majority of groups of other species that will do better at the 78-80 degrees. Rams especially (not with a betta) do well there. Is the tank you have running now with the heater or is that ambient air temp? I just wanted to clarify. Sometimes you buy a heater and it's set to 78 degrees. The tolerance on them can be 78+2 which puts you at 80-81 degrees. Some people use an external controller (heater plugs into it, secondary thermometer probe goes into the tank to read the temp with a bit better accuracy)
  17. nabokovfan87
    Pickle jars also work well 😉
  18. nabokovfan87
    Specimen container with an airstone? Reminds me to go feed the fry. 😂
  19. nabokovfan87
    The betta wants high temps (80) and the other fish would want a lower temp generally. That could be causing some stress on those species, which could be leading to the losses. I'm not saying this is the cause, but just a note and that this could be a factor here. Higher temps would reduce lifespan on those species long term, generally speaking. I would keep them at 74-76 and keep the betta at 80 degrees. Cherry barb: https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/cherry-barb/ Albino Corydoras: https://www.planetcatfish.com/common/species.php?species_id=51 Betta: https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/betta-fish-care-guide upload it to youtube, mark it as unlisted, then paste the link here. First, welcome to the forums, and hopefully we can help you sort this out and have a better experience with the hobby! Whenever you see corydoras struggling, the first thing I often do is check equipment and verify everything is working. Second thing I do is add an extra airstone. They generally like highly oxygenated water and that usually helps them with any stress situations. Especially in QT, that might be a good thing to do! Otocinclus are similar as well. Your testing results look fine. I think this is purely a temperature thing, maybe a meds dosage thing, or it could just be acclimation stress causing issues.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Minimum for me was 2 treatments of kanaplex Aquarium Salt is also helpful, not sure if you have that around. 1/2 cup per 10G is the dose I use. Right now, I would be doing a big water change today (no meds in the tank) and then repeat daily 50% WCs until you see nitrates low consistently (5 ppm or lower, then monitor them daily). If you're seeing nitrates spike +10 or +20 ppm PER DAY then there's a bigger issue at play here. That's what needs to be figured out. The fish shouldn't have issues from clean water and fresh water, increased water changes. It will help them recover, and help you determine if this is all due to overstocking issues, overfeeding issues, potentially a dead fish somewhere, or something else releasing ammonia and causing the constant high nitrates.
  21. nabokovfan87
    yes Either one is fine. I treated mine with Methylene blue. I also have Ich-X. You can also do baths depending on where the eggs are. Move the eggs to a specimen container and then add 1-2 drops of the chemical. When they hatch, then you'd want to remove the chemicals within 24-48 hours. They both have Methylene blue. The main issue with methylene blue is the health issues long term if you overdose it. Stick to the directions and you should be fine.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Definitely true. My experience with CO2 art was awesome as well. Either one I highly recommend! (Co2 art is the one ACO used to bring into the US)
  23. nabokovfan87
    Here's the article I use to share the guidance. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh In the example you mentioned. I am guessing.... GH: Equilibrium and wondershell increased it KH: Crushed coral (potentially also wondershell) increased it
  24. nabokovfan87
    share a pic of the strip next time you have one and then I'll run it through. Essentially "which one" meaning which filter depends on the color and your eyes to try to discern what you're seeing. https://www.color-blindness.com/coblis-color-blindness-simulator/ I tend to use these columns.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Very cool that you got everything working again. The only thing I would suggest @Godzilla68 is next time don't disassemble anything. Email support (for any brand's product that you just bought new) and just make sure things get troubleshooted. It's so hard sometimes when you're trying to help someone and then you hear the "well I did this, then I tried this, etc." It's a new product, you just received it, so I always err of the side of trying to get help. With my regulator (old one purchased from ACO) I had an issue for about 2 years and I didn't try to fix it until we'd moved and tanks were setup. Come to find out I turned one thing the exact wrong way and it was leaking on top of everything else. It happens. Arrows on turning knobs help. LOL. Oh well. It is unfortunate and DOAs do happen, but I wanted to share my experience with support (in general) and hopefully that helps in future if you do run into issues on a new purchase! I think 9/10 times it's almost always a bad seal or a leak somewhere with regulator issues. It always happens and often easily remedied with the soap test.
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