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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Add an air stone to the main tank maybe? The setup you had seems fine. The only thing I would suggest is add one airstone on either side (sponge on one side, airstone on the other) if you can. If not, just center the sponge filter. I would use moss or something instead of a cave so you can see the fish a bit easier. Maybe a small piece of wood. If you're worried about water differences, you can fill it with a % of water from the main tank. Usually, the best thing is often fresh, new water, unless you're talking an OTS issue.
  2. nabokovfan87
    When you cleaned it did you remove the impeller itself? The impeller shaft? (Toothbrush or Qtip would work well). The noise you're hearing is starting the pump dry, need to purge air out before turning it on. Then you may need to shake it back and forth to dislodge any air bubbles that get stuck when it first turns on. Gently of course but just so they can be shot out of the canister. Good to hear. Best of luck with it. The real unfortunate thing is that EHeim doesn't want to be in the US market much anymore. They aren't stocked in a lot of places anymore.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Thank you @JJenna ! Update on today's events, the Amano shrimp are finally back to clean the lawn. Update 2: Black Corydoras look like they are getting their full colors in. They kind of look like they have little black helmets on right now, very adorable. I added in some shrimp sticks to give them some calcium. Did a spot dose on the problem spot. I went ahead and did a ~40% WC as well which is now completed and finished up. Not sure how I feel about the tidal right now, but as always the testing continues. Water Test Results: Temp: 72.3 Phosphate: no test Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 10 KH: 60 GH: 200-300 PH: Either it's 6.5-6.7 or it's 7.0-7.2 I can't tell.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Makes sense. Maybe people who have had issues with bloat in their fish are more conservative about feeding?
  5. nabokovfan87
    You probably just need to clean the impeller. Give it a chance, see if that fixes it.
  6. nabokovfan87
    A couple photos cleaning things out today. Edit: I count 23.
  7. nabokovfan87
    They'll do better in there. How were you feeling them? That's awesome. Congratulations
  8. nabokovfan87
    Add an air stone?
  9. nabokovfan87
    We're all here to help! Hopefully things improve for you and you start to see the tank stabilize. Aquarium salt for me, I dose 1/2 cup per 10G Doesn't change and sensitive species tend to do ok with it too.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Check behind the tank in the floor. Around the openings on the lid. Very sorry for your loss. Do you know what happened to the school?
  11. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, exactly. Yeah, probably. Lower temps also mean more oxygen in the water, win win. Yeah, which you already have. And you have the water sprite. Just needs to grow into a big enough mass. 12-20 stems in a small area type of thing. Try feeding them after dark or something where they might be more comfortable being exposed. You can also try floating flakes/pellets to directly feed them. The Xtreme stuff floats pretty well. Depending on layout, adding a rock pile, more caves, more wood, you'd expect to see them go for more of the aufwuchs on the other surfaces. I used to stack a series of pleco caves or ceramics to try to help mine have places to go. The corydoras took over them, ironically.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Whatever I try next I have to order in. I'm leaning towards neoplex and jungle fizz tabs. I'll try to track down some other stuff too and check active ingredients. All of, or most of the seachem stuff treats gram negative issues. We'll see what I can find. Hopefully tomorrow I can make it to a few shops and check things out.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Minimum I would do is 15-30%, larger volume, once a week. I can't say it for certain, but next time you get strips I would opt for the tetra ones. For whatever reason, on some of the tests, API strips can have some issues. Alright..... well. hopefully we can figure out a bit about what's going on. I think the only thing I can see as an issue is the volume of WC, potential OTS setting in, but it's part of new shrimp in a new tank. Long term acclimation. I would increase feeding so that you see the shrimp themselves running around with pellets, sticks, or other things. Specifically making sure they get shrimp based (calcium added) foods to help with any molting or mineral issues.
  14. nabokovfan87
    It's definitely difficult when things are that small, translucent, and just difficult to see on top of it all. A flashlight comes in extremely handy for me because I can light the sides and see shadows or shapes in that method. I recommend a clear (not opaque) as possible rubbermaid tupperware container or something like that if you're having really bad issues right now. https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Brilliance-Storage-Container-Medium/dp/B07X3XTCHW?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1 I light it from the sides, underneath, etc. Specimen container works as well, but might not be big enough to manage all the mulm you have going on when trying to siphon. If I was in your shoes my method would be... 1. Siphon like normal, let things settle in the bucket. 2. Use a light and a net (or baster) to suck out the shrimplettes into a specimen container. 3. Add them back into the tank, then fill things back up. At some point you're going to have more than enough so you don't need to worry as much. Right now I understand it's a critical process and a new one, and that in itself is stressful. I understand not wanting to lose any haphazardly as well. Do what you can, but try not to kill yourself worrying about every fine detail. Your eyes will get used to it and you'll get the method down.
  15. nabokovfan87
    They should be light sensitive. So common method is to siphon whatever, turkey baster, etc. and then you go ahead and set a light and they'll swim towards it. Then you siphon that out. You're looking for this: These are amanos. I would assume that the other Caradina's are similar, but I'll double check. Further reasearch, you'd be looking for something more like this. Prior to this stage I don't know if there is a stage similar to amanos shown above. It looks like they have less planktonic stages for neo / caradina shrimp, but again... very hard to find full information. This is the smallest I can reliably find apart from this chart. https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Amphidromous-life-cycle-in-caridean-shrimps-adults-live-and-breed-upstream-in-fresh_fig1_269799282 https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Caridina-pseudodenticulata-1st-larval-stage-A-lateral-view-B-dorsal-view-C_fig1_288115773
  16. nabokovfan87
    I think she actually is releasing eggs here. This is usually the behavior after the eggs are released and she's making sure there isn't any left. The video earlier today was the "cleaning" behavior I've seen them do.
  17. nabokovfan87
    How many did you start with!? Hopefully you have 2 females in those three! Let me know if there's anything I can do to help 🙂
  18. nabokovfan87
    Thanks. Shrimp stuff starts on page 26 in the thread.
  19. nabokovfan87
    They definitely will be. It's a lot more space and they get to "stretch their fins" so to speak.
  20. nabokovfan87
    I can't confirm, but this looks bacterial to me. Let me grab the link. https://aquariumbreeder.com/understanding-dwarf-shrimp-diseases-and-parasites/ How long have they been in the tank? Sometimes, especially when first added to a tank before the colony really gets going you can have some deaths the first 3 months. It's normal acclimation so to speak. Very difficult to say what the cause is. The white blotches is what concerns me and points towards something specific, but I just don't have the knowledge as to what. All I can think is something bacterial. As long as you're not seeing anything like what that website describes, I think you're ok and you just try to focus on good water parameters (consistent ones) with well oxygenated water. @Minanora On your colored up shrimp, do you see white patches like this sometimes? for my amanos it's harder to tell because it's a translucent shell. I do see it sometimes, but stress type of deaths for me are usually reddish or off-colors. Kind of always looks like they've been overheated / cooked when I see an amano die. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea I think if you have enough of a "bioload" in the tank I would up your feeding. Stick to 30-40% Water changes with fresh water and hopefully that keeps things consistent but handles any stress issues that might happen. Obviously, you mentioned that you have had issues using new water. Would it make sense to run an off-gas test? All I can think is to get them healthy is to increase feeding slightly and then try to let them acclimate a bit.
  21. nabokovfan87
    solidgold aquatics has a lot of good content on goldfish, and about an hour long or so video talking about genetic issues. I can't speak to what is or isn't going on with the genetics, but someone who has a lot of experience, this might be one to look at and think over the conversation from this hobbyist.
  22. nabokovfan87
    That's SUPER weird. Usually shrimp want the fresh / oxygenated water. You're running two air driven filters in the tank. The only thing I can think is temp. I'm sorry you're running into issues. I'll try to catch up on whatever I missed and see what I can see. She is moving her egg legs. Swimerettes (spelled terribly I'm guessing) So that behavior is normal and it's what you'll see when she's got eggs or is just generally eating. They keep that area clean so they extend them out and the they go ahead and fan them, so to speak. Sitting on flow is normal too. She was just grazing and eating, not releasing yet.
  23. nabokovfan87
    So there's a few things going on. Step 1. Is the tank actually cycled? Meaning, you got the tank, then weeks later went back and got bacteria and fish. Did the tank get a chance to run before adding fish? Did you test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrates at all? Let's take a giant step back and try to set things up for success. Initially, from the above and the way it's described, my assumption is you didn't start "cycling" fully until you added the fish. Cloudy water 99.9% of the time is bacterial bloom, which means you're starting to get the bacteria growing in volume large enough to handle the fish load. Then you added more fish, which again triggers a higher demand for bacteria in the tank. It's not a lost cause or anything like that, but based on what your explaining, that's probably what happened. You can always buy and use the bottled bacteria whenever you need to. Even a seasoned tank can have a cycle crash and you might need to dose some in. I have some in the fridge right now because I had a tank that has been running for ~9-12 months with 25+ fish and I changed things. The tank had 3 filters, I removed one that was used for water polishing which resulted in the bacteria load dropping on the tank, cloudy water. After 5-6 weeks of clouds water, I added the bacteria in a bottle stuff to help get things finally cleared up. It happens. It's not a good / bad thing to use and if you're having cycling issues, bad water parameters, cloudy water, and fish stress, then it wouldn't hurt at all to add that stuff in. A big dose on day 1. then the normal dose on days 2-7.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Are you currently running an in-line diffuser or one that is in the tank? @Minanora The two go-to is usually the NilocG or the CO2Art https://nilocg.com/products/atomic-intense-inline-co2-atomizer https://www.co2art.us/products/new-co2art-inline-co2-aquarium-atomizer-diffuser-system I believe for the X07 series you're looking at 12mm tubing fitment.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Adding the 2 adult corydoras is perfectly fine. Even if you have JUST an airstone. There is enough water volume where they won't do anything but help the tank cycle. That being said, make sure you've dosed prime for the volume of the tank prior to adding any fish and wait ~5-15 minutes.
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