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Found 12 results

  1. I’ve searched the internet for hours trying to find an answer as to whether or not is is safe/typical to mix Paracleanse with expelP at the same time. I do not know what type of worms my fish have, as I’ve never encountered this before. All I know is they are expelling white stringy pop, refusing food, and I’ve had them for about 6 days. I’m aware of the dangers of dosing meds in general, but I would like to know if this is typically okay to mix these meds, also, can I dose the meds with salt? Thanks
  2. I am on my second round of quarantining fish. My rough idea that I am trying to do is 1 week of the med trio. Then letting them sit for a total of 4 weeks to get the second treatment of Paracleanse in at week 3. After the Med Trio and 3 daily 40% water changes, I start adding filter floss from my established tank and putting it into the quarantine tank box filter every 5 days or so. I have also put one serving of the Fritz bacteria in as well only to see nothing developing. I am assuming that Maracyn is the main issue that hurts that bacteria, but I don't comprehend for how long. Tank parameter are 70 degrees temp, 14 degrees GH, 7 degrees KH, 8.2 PH, 10 Nitrate, 0.25 ammonia, 0 nitrite, tap water does not read chlorine on the test strip but I treat with Prime. I am mainly having issues with getting a cycle started so I do not have to water change while the second round of Paraclense is in. How long after a Med trio treatment is it reasonable to expect a cycle to develop?
  3. So, one of my tanks (classic guppies/snails/shrimp tank) had some clear parasite issues so I medicated it with paracleanse according to Aquarium Coop's directions and that is going very well. However I decided to medicate another tank I have because I have been using the same nets back and forth and some of the mollies there had clamped fins and another fish there had recently got half her tail bitten off so I figured the antibacterial and anti fungal wouldn't hurt so I hit it with the full classic trio, Marycin, ich-x and paracleanse. The morning after, the tank is super cloudy, fish gasping for air and my salvini male starts showing some extreme dying behaviour (sinking to the bottom, smashing into the substrate and decor, floating upside down, etc...). So I did a 80% waterchange and added an airstone but meanwhile the salvini male died. Has anyone had a similar experience with those meds? I think they might have maybe killed a lot of beneficial bacteria and/or depleted the water of oxygen.
  4. I have a planted 40 gallon breeder community tank which is going on 4 months old and currently includes: 12 Neon Tetra 6 Bronze Corys 5 Amano Shrimp *6 Dwarf Chain Loaches (just added two days ago after quarantine) Crypts - green and lucens Vallisneria Amazon Sword Anubias Java Fern Temp 76; pH has dropped a little below 7, it's around 6.8 and is probably due to the driftwood and I need to add a bit more crushed coral; Ammonia 0; Nitrites 0; Nitrates around 40ppm (can add GH/KH numbers if it will be helpful). I may be paranoid, but one of my Dwarf Chain Loaches has been kicking up the sand, and I noticed one of the corys rubbing on the sword leaves. I don't SEE any white ich spots or anything else at the moment, and no one else in the tank seems to be bothered. I've never had dwarf chain loaches before and have heard that they are prone to ich because they are scaleless, so maybe I'm just over-reacting and they're ok, just settling in as they've only been in the big tank for a few days... I have the med trio which I've used for quarantining (I also have three other tanks: 20 gal guppy tank, 10 gallon betta tank, 10 gallon pea puffer tank) However, if it does wind up being ich or something similar and I do need to treat the tank, will adding salt completely nuke my plants? I understand it dehydrates them, and if I really need to I could probably just pull them all and replant after treatment. Aside from using salt... is there anything for ich that works as well as Ich-X that won't stain the tank? Comments/suggestions/insights are greatly appreciated ❤️
  5. Hey there! Semi new to the aquarium hobby. Wondering if I could get everyone's routine when they're quarantining with meds? I understand the reasoning and concept, however when I'm looking at the instructions for the meds, nothing seems to line up. Each has a different time period before water change and different amount of water changed. Whenever I've ready or watched people talking about quarantining fish it seems like water changing is hardly mentioned? Thanks in advance for the help Grant
  6. Hey! I need some help please, I have 2 kuhli loaches with weird white spots. I’ve had ick before however this doesn’t look like ick. It’s flat and just weird looking. I know ick goes for fins first but there fins are fine it’s only on their body. They scratch on things so I thought it was ick but everyone else in the tank is ok. I have 3 dojo loaches,2 kuhli loaches, 2 hillstream loaches, 9 neons, and a beta. My newest fish I added was a loach a little over a week ago. My tank is 3 years old and it’s a 55 gallon. My water temp is around 78 degrees. All the water levels are fine and normal. I had ick maybe 2 years ago and everyone passed except my one of dojos who lived. It got really bad but I took care of it. Now I’m not sure if this is ick because of how strange it looks. I’ll add some pictures to show you guys. I’m not sure if it matters but I have a bamboo and Anubias plant and everything else is fake. Please help me!!
  7. Long story short, I ended up with camallanus worms in at least two tanks. Since my fish were no longer eating, I opted to dose twith levamisole. Per the instructions from Select Aquatics, I dosed twice over two days (25% water change + 1 dose, 25% water change + 1 dose.) I used the 15 gallon spoon for my 20 gallon long (it holds ~16.5 gallons of water after substrate, hardscape etc.) so I'm reasonably certain I didn't overdose. No inverts were impacted, and my remaining fish have been passing worms like crazy. Since then all my tank's inhabitants have been acting normally, albeit with reduced appetites. However, since the levamisole treatment I've been able to detect ammonia in my tank. It's been cycled and running for close to a year with no issues and the only change I've made in the last several months is the application of the de-wormer. I've been monitoring it over 4 days now, and I'm consistently seeing detectable and rising ammonia levels in the water. I vacuumed the substrate thoroughly for each water change to help remove any dead worms, and to remove rotting organic matter in general. I would be very surprised if built up organics were the cause of the current ammonia spikes. The tank is very lightly stocked, thanks to the worms, but there's clearly not enough of a working bio filter to keep up. I've tried bringing media and filters from other cycled tanks in to help things catch up, but that's been no help. My concern is that the levamisole has wiped out my bio filter and since it's still in the water, is wiping out any new bacteria I introduce. I'm at a bit of a loss in terms of ways to remove the medication from the water. I had some carbon on hand, and I've added that to my HOB, but I'm not sure if there's more I could be doing. Other than carbon and water changing, is there anything I can do to speed up the process of clearing the levamisole from the tank? It seems like its presence is wiping out any beneficial bacteria I introduce. I'm also not able to find anyone whose experience with levamisole mirrors my own. Most people seem really happy with the treatment and don't experience a cycle crash. Any thoughts on what might've caused my treatment to go haywire? Thanks in advance for any advice! Battling these worms has had me bummed out for weeks now. I felt like I finally had the upper hand once I managed a diagnosis and treatment, but it's gone all pear-shaped on me.
  8. So I bumped into a couple of Jack Dempseys, lovely little mating pair. I had to have them, impulse buy. Got home and realized I'm all out of Quarantine Trio. I head back to big Al's to find out Maracyn, Para Cleanse, and most all meds are no longer allowed to be sold to consumers in Canada. The only way to get them is from a vet prescription, which honestly I can't seem to afford or find a vet locally willing to prescribe meds for fish without being them in and stressing them out. Long story short, I was only given a small selection of available meds from the local pet store, and all the tank mates for the Jack's have now passed away. What would be the recommended alternative to the Quarantine Trio, but available to Canadian consumers without a prescription? Help is much appreciated, I lost many fish from my impulse buy, but let's be honest it will likely happen again one day, but I need a plan in place for medication. Peas and Tanks!!!
  9. Hi everyone, so i saw a lot of people from Europe asking where to get med trio or what to use in Europe etc. So i will write here some medicine list that i have experience with and many other aquarists use it as well. 1.Esha 2000 - is used for Finrot, fungal infections, bacterial infections 2.Esha Exit - is used for ich and velvet (and more rear spot disease's) 3.Esha gdex - is used for gill flukes, skin flukes and tape worm This 3 meds can be used in same time, dosage is simple and they doesn't effect invertebrates. Those 3 meds will affect wide range of disease that are most common in aquarium hobby. There are some more specific diseases that will not be treated with those meds but they are not as common. You can get it in online shops as well on Amazon. Other very good products are from JBL company but the trick is they treat specific types of disease's so you need to be sure that is right med for right disease.
  10. Hi guys. My kiddo has a planted tank, 10g. It is cycled, about 3 months old, running a sponge filter, ammonia, nitrates and nitrites all at 0-- nitrates are mostly waay low in this tank, we don't really fertilize it, the plants are duck weed, java moss, and left over val runners cast off from other tanks. pH is 7.6-ish, and the heater is a bit sketch, got up to 81, but is meant to be set at 78. I have a secondary thermometer in there and am eyeballing it several times a day. Water is soft. The tank has has a couple of losses. fish were medicated with the trio on the way in. We lost a betta to emaciation twice now. And now 2 of the danios are not eating and emaciated too. I am suspecting internal parasites of some kind, due to the slow sporadic attrition. The tank also contains khuli loaches and random snails. I have on hand the med trio, and levamisole. What would you recommend here?
  11. Quick question regarding a quarantine tank and the med-trio. I have a batch of fish ready to go into their permanent tank (QT period is over) and a new batch fresh from the LFS ready to go into the QT tank. Can I put the new fish in the QT tank (along with a new dose of the med trio) or should I do a complete water change first, then add new meds, then add the fish? Thanks,
  12. I stand by the quarantine med trio and it has worked beautifully to treat issues for which it was designed. However, I have run into a couple of instances of fish ailments that weren't covered by the trio that didn't really show up during quarantine. (Usually 5 or 6 weeks, for me, give or take a day or two.) From my research (online and books), these don't seem like super everyday common issues and don't generally present symptoms right away or are harder to spot. So far, some of my fish have presented (after quarantine): Camallanus Worms - Treated with Safeguard Goat Drench (Fenbendazole) while waiting for Levamisole to arrive (3 weeks later). Now I am the crazy paranoid fish lady that periodically checks my fish's vents for worms. (Never thought that would be my jam. 🙂 Anchor Worms - Treated with Microbe-Lift Lice and Anchor Worm (Cyromazine) and Cyropro (different tanks, not at the same time). I finally received the Dimilin I ordered (one month later) so I am ready if it pops up again. No flashing for weeks, no lethargy, no nothing. All seemed well until an ulcer on one of my fish showed up. I assumed it had gotten into something and hurt itself. A couple of days later, all of the fish in the tank seemed to have a small ulcer and were flashing. Started general salt treatment (low level), until I could figure out what it actually was. The next day I could finally see the little buggers. Gross. As much fun as it was to treat each of my established tanks after I added in the fish that had "completed" quarantine, I would rather not play those games again. Given the overall world situation, I couldn't go to my LFS to inspect the fish before I received them. At this point, I don't even want to order fish online anymore, not that it would have mattered to see them first as I obviously would not have caught either of the two. I would like to know if anyone can add insight to the following questions so we can all learn something and maybe avoid these types of shenanigans in the future. My questions: 1. Are there any other not so obvious fish issues that can be hard to spot during a quarantine period? (i.e. Not the usual suspects like Ick, Velvet, Flukes, DOA, etc. Lol!) 2. If so, what are the tricks and tips to spot them early (if any)? 3. Are there any good treatments every fish keeper should probably have on hand as they are hard to come by or generally have longer shipping wait times? (i.e. Levamisole, Dimilin, Malachite Green, Potassium Permanganate, etc.)
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