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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Every dimension has a tolerance no matter what. That's just part of making something. Let me try to find a video discussing the topic of controlling tolerances. 🙂
  2. nabokovfan87
    More cleaning of their little home for now. Got a picture of them being very upset with me but trying to hide under the moss. I move it to one side and try to get them away from my cleaning agitation. Not quite fully colored up but close. You can still see some stripes and stuff if you get a clear look.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Yes. You would. Just clean the existing seachem foams out really good and let them dry, they'll be just fine. To start, I would try just the blue/black. Then decide how it performs as far as fines. Potentially you want cleaner water or something and then would add the green. Make sure you wash/rinse all the sponges before you use them, they weren't rinsed here and fresh from the package so you speak. On the 35 you're going to have the extra piece to cover the window in the basket. In the 55 you might not have that piece but can make one it you need to. (On the 55 I closed mine off with silicone, on the 35 it's slightly easier to just use the sponge to cover it and usually performs just fine)
  4. nabokovfan87
    In the video at the end what you're seeing is a piece of sponge I use to cover the window cutout and how the water was flowing over the basket by the chute. When I removed the sponge, released some of the opening where the window cutout is, that means it no longer goes up the chute area but goes out the window in the left side corner of the basket. Bypassing all of the sponge underneath and you can see how strong the flow is through the window. I add the sponge back, forcing the water to be filtered through the Sponge, which then we see water come out of the chute again over the sides of the basket. Bypassing.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Bypass just means that instead of the water going through the filter, it's going around everything (path of least resistance) and that results in the water not being cleaned. The gunk goes back into the tank, etc. In the videos you commonly see the water going through other paths and through things in the filter not intended. Most commonly is the "window cut" which is a big cutout on the side of the media basket, it's just a big opening, bypassing all of the sponge. Second to that, you have the back or top edge of the basket where the water is flowing so strongly that it goes into the hang on back, past the basket, and then over the sides. Turning down flow can reduce this issues, but over time it is unavoidable with this design. So the cutouts in the bottom of the basket are to improve flow. This is done without using any silicone on anything and just removing part of the grille on the basket. Because the other paths of the filter are easier (path of least resistance) this means that water wants to ignore the opening in the bottom of the basket and then continue up towards the window cut and over the sides of the basket. Opening up the grille on the bottom of the basket means that the water has a better chance of going into the sponge and the filter media.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Yay it arrived undamaged. 😂 I run blue / black in that order. The green is there if you ever want to play with them. Additionally if you want more flow you can run blue blue. Blue = course Black = med Green = fine (polish water)
  7. nabokovfan87
    I might be able to find a video but the way to view it is two ways. 1. Cost and quality increase when you have higher tolerances (dimensions are more common, less variability) 2. Some manufacturing methods have better tolerances than other. 3. The way you want things to fit is WHY you control tolerances. So let's take your example. Dimension shown is .5 Tolerance on the drawing is +/-.040 Dimensions should be .460-.540 Or.... If you list the dimension as .500 (more decimal places) The tolerance is typically +/-.010 Dimensions expected are .490-.510 They can change per part or per drawing, as well as major companies that change them based on the part materials/manufacturing process. 100% Specifically find a format you want to use. Then follow that. If you're in the EU, we can find common tolerances for those engineering terms and in the US your looking for something like "NASA Engineering Manual" (yep it exists, totally awesome) or specifically ANSI / SAE tolerance documents.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Yay Roy! Nicely done 🙂 You've done an awesome job helping all the fish recover through that disease. Such an awesome day for you when this happens after so long treating them.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Not weird at all! I had mine lay on ACO tubing. All I could think was to make some sort of mop out of that material. Yeah. 100%. One of the talks from the corydoras breeder in 2017 I think said that if you don't have the proper flow some species just will refuse to lay eggs. Sounds similar to what @Chick-In-Of-TheSeawwas experiencing with her Betta! That's awesome. I really enjoy how different and fun these fish seem to be. That's awesome.
  10. nabokovfan87
    From what I was researching when I had eggs drop some species take 3 days and others take up to 7 days to hatch. 🙂 That's awesome. Very excited for you!
  11. nabokovfan87
    Lol, it was just on the glass but the photo made it look like it was on the Moss. 😂
  12. nabokovfan87
    That's awesome! Consider me very jealous 🙂 . Otos is one of those fish I always want to breed. @Minanora question... about the eggs I found today. (photos in my journal) would you pull them and put them in like a specimen container or just leave them considering I'm already holding fry right now?
  13. nabokovfan87
    yeah, based on the specs, looks like it's not thin wood should be fully supported. The rack does come in a variety of sizes. 12" deep, 14-18" deep, etc.
  14. nabokovfan87
    That's awesome, congrats. The corydoras will really like having some more friends. 🙂
  15. nabokovfan87
    The hole is on the intake here. The intake tube is partially obstructed, which is why it needed to be opened up to allow flow into the pump. Essentially. 1. Plug skimmer OPTIONAL... 2. Plug middle input grate (that is the grille shown in the photo above, blue knob removed as well 3. Open up the intake tube on both ends (the hole above, and the base of the strainer itself) 4. add a pre-filter sponge to the intake. Hopefully that makes sense. If not, please feel free to quote / tag me on the other thread to break down something specific related to modding the tidal.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I found some more eggs when the lid was opened and doing my cleanings. I also found some pretty alarming (?) water changes yet again when testing. Might have to try to make a fish mop out of airline tubing.... 🤔 Because of those eggs there I did not want to drop waterline. again, not all of those eggs are fertile, but I do think some are. Test Results: Temperature - 72.7 Phosphate - 3.0 ppm Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - 15 ppm PH - 6.8 KH - 80 (AWESOME) GH - 150 (Could be 100, but that's way less than usual, ~400 ppm) Ever since September and October I've seen my GH slowly drop from the tap. It was 400, then 250, then 150, now we're in the 75-100 range. Maybe this is just due to the tank itself using up the minerals in the water, but changing large volumes of water isn't keeping things stable. Fluctuations aren't good, and the instability out of my hand is pretty frustrating to say the least. I'll keep an eye on the shrimp, but they seem ok. Of note... -High phosphates does mean this algae is doing more damage and growing (not good) -Nitrates are higher than normal just because I am feeding a lot, not really an issue. -Moss falling off in the S. Repens and things all over the substrate lead to more phosphates too. -Seachem Tidal stuff I think is "wrapped up" and I need to formulate some final results. Not sure where to go with that.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Definitely not something I've ever seen before. Hopefully someone can chime in and help out!
  18. nabokovfan87
    They look good. Kind of remind me of this guy.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Looks good. I would just try to make sure the tanks are resting on the metal and not the wood. Corners on the metal I mean. I'd have to check dimensions or I would suggest just having a board cut by the store to fit the shelves. That one shown might not be fully supported? Looks legit. Weight Capacity (per shelf) (lbs.) 800
  20. nabokovfan87
    eeeesh, get rid of the bba! Tank looks great. Do you want to leave the val long like that or do you plan to trim it?
  21. nabokovfan87
    I think the "best" is probably going to be moss or a moss ball. They don't need much and it's easy to propogate without doing damage. One of the things I watched recently had discussed this topic and in my mind I'm thinking anubias all day long because it's so easy. Well, the creator had a good point. Sometimes these "beginner plants" are just too slow growing to out compete the algae. Something like Bacopa Caroliniana, water sprite, or Pogostemon sellatus octopus would be where I send someone because of that if they were trying to find a "first plant" to try. The big difference though is needed a light (some tanks just don't have them) and needing some sort of root tab or fertilizer regime.
  22. nabokovfan87
    weird. What brand is this lid? could be some sort of saltwater crazing residue on the glass?
  23. nabokovfan87
    I found this... @Scaperoot #7 is a really good answer for your question here. Thought you might enjoy the vid.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Saltwater always looks awesome, even when it's just rocks. 😂 Hopefully the family is doing better, feel better kiddos!
  25. nabokovfan87
    This is my guide and method for how to do it. I've been running it fully modded for about 6+ months. Skimmer closed off is easy, just seems intimidating. I also modded the intake so it actually goes through the intake tube itself. If you do those mods I would recommend having an intake pre-filter sponge. I used basically just silicone and QTips with the ends cut off (or toothpicks) to give mine a cleaner look.
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