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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Injection molding they make molds to form the parts. That's the ultimate expense apart from production time at the manufacturing facility. This gives you an idea of how it works. Plastic pellets are heated into a liquid, inserted into the mold, then the part is formed and trimmed as need be. If you've ever seen little model kids for making a model car, those are all injection molded parts too and sometimes you'll get an extra glob of plastic. That's normal, usually trimmed off when need be. Design is usually completed internally, reviewed using something like a 3d printer or animations, FMEA tools and other methods. Once everything looks good, then you're moving into production phase of the project. That means the model is "finished" and you're going to add draft and other methods as need be to form the part using that process. This has to do with ease or editing the model in the future and the chain of commands used to create the parts. Yeah. Mobile website issues. Sorry about that. Should read, "The draft starting at the base and cutting into the part, making the top dimension narrower."
  2. nabokovfan87
    Essentially it's likely to be an "easy" value. It's not common to have random numbers for thicknesses of things. 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, etc would all be a long some sort of "common" scheme used for design. I can't say with certainty because I don't normally use mm for designs and I haven't had injection molded parts designed in mm. That being said, the way the draft stuff works is that you're usually going to have a "normal" dimension and that's your model. Everything is reviewed and then you go back and add draft. Then that model is reviewed by manufacturing (injection molding is the tool maker) and they break down any issues that could come up. Common things being part thickness inconsistency which results In flow issues. When you add draft, assuming everything is 2mm to start with. At the top of the lips/ribs you would have an angle of typically 0.5 degrees. Sometimes higher. For a small piece like that you can get away with a steeper angle pretty easily. So on the lower height you'd have either... The draft starting acuttingt the base and cutting into the part making the top dimension narrower Or The draft starts at the top surface and extends outward, adding material to the base of the rib. That is why you're seeing the discrepancy on dimensions between the ribs. One of them has a different height, but they likely started with the same thickness and just have variation due to draft angles being applied.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Your water is probably gaining PH because of added oxygenation after the WC. Pythons are great and work well. For a 29G tank I currently use two buckets to drain and then fill up with a python when it makes sense. It's not a gigantic tank, so having something not diffuse the flow is useful. There is some stuff on Etsy, but that's highly recommended on the 29G. As far as when to add dechlorinator. Add it to the tank prior to adding any water.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Most often it's a salt dip at a certain concentration.
  5. nabokovfan87
    That might be rust disease. Let me grab a link https://aquariumbreeder.com/understanding-dwarf-shrimp-diseases-and-parasites/ I can't be sure because I don't know if it would discolor an entire plate on the shrimp. Here is a breakdown of what you're looking for. Yeah exactly. The shell might've been weakened. Depending on what dip was used could indicate more issues. What was in the parasite dip used?
  6. nabokovfan87
    I don't think siphon caused any issues. Like Modified Lung mentioned, it's probably the water change itself that modified parameters. Honestly though, between 6.8-7.0 that's fine for parameters. The tank is cycling and you're having a bacterial bloom (or it's cloudy from the coral) and will just take time to finish up cycling. Let the filters work. It'll get there. Just do your normal maintenance and normal procedures for cleaning and keep an eye on parameters. Usually I use the test strips. So that's PH, KH, GH, Nitrite, Nitrates on my daily or weekly testing when I have issues. Cory has a very good video on OTS that is worth a look. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have after watching it. Ignoring the siphon definitely doesn't help, leads to phosphate buildup and algae issues. So try to make sure that happens week to week. You likely don't even need to do a WC given the volume of water changed by the siphon itself. Shrimp generally will do better with a stable environment, so the goal here is to just have consistency. Weekly cleaning, try to change the same amount of water whenever you do, etc. The plants will also do better as a result of that methodical approach too. If you're trying to diagnose OTS the main thing will be to compare the tank to what's going on with your tap water. Based on KH and GH being where they are, I can't say that it's OTS. Might just be something else entirely going on, but you're on the right track by adding the coral and adjusting things that way. Positioning the bags closer to flow will help, but using CC means it's a slower release and more stable long term, which is good. If you do, I'd recommend a 20Long aquarium if that fits where you have the tank. You'll get there. Pecktec does a lot of small tanks and he has some techniques he uses that might make things easier on you. Example, he uses a toothbrush to clean things off and uses a gallon jug as his bucket for water changes, using the handle of the jug to hold the siphon tube in place. Definitely attributes to more waste in the tank, which affects KH as well.
  7. nabokovfan87
    They look like pest snail eggs of some kind.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Keep in mind that you have draft on both ribs. 2.X on the shorter height and 1.6 on the taller one. Drawing them straight, your dimension for the ribs is very likely 2.0mm or 2.5mm and then draft was added. Use either one of those and that is likely fine for your model. The channel gap, just make it make sense on an even value so 4mm is what I would use. If you're seeing a major size difference on the ribs. Make the smaller one 2.0 and the bigger one 2.5mm. gap stays at 4mm in either case. I think big/small might be referring to height, unsure.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Sorry about that. Typo. If you see gaps now. Then add more silicone now. I see @TeeJayis keeping me in suspense on whether or not my tidal 35 fix is legitimately good or not 🙂 . Needless to say, I'm excited to get another perspective and to have another analysis of the "version 1" fix where no adhesive or cutting is done to improve the filter. Take your time, let me know when you have some thoughts on the setup.
  10. nabokovfan87
    It's really difficult to understand that document of measurements without any context. Can you label the dimensions on a sketch? If you have multiple then just list all the numbers applicable.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Yes, let it cure fully then add more. If you see gaps now add more now. I let mine cure so the lines were parallel to the table to try to reduce it falling into the cavity. Like this.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Don't want to deform anything. Just enough to get a good reading. You can also get a reading, tighten them down and then they won't move and you can verify it that way. (Remeasure without the jaws moving)
  13. nabokovfan87
    Yep. That's basically water. Just let it dry fully. You're going to need a bit more than you think to cover the gap but not difficult at all.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I literally glue my plants while standing over the tank, hold them in place and count to 10 or so and then I dip it in the water to harden the glue. If you're really brave, you add the glue to the plant and glue it underwater. Just make sure you know where it's going.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Clean it as best you can. isopropyl works. If you don't have either of those, just use water. Make sure it's clean, let it dry, then apply the silicone.
  16. nabokovfan87
    No. it simply changes where the water comes in from. Right now, the majority of the water input is in the skimmer. As opposed to the intake tube or mid-skimmer around the pump. All it is going to do is add some more "ooomph" to the ability of the pump to filter the water column as opposed to the surface. And no.... you won't have surface scum issues.
  17. nabokovfan87
    You're fine to remove it. Most people do. 🙂 It's a little difficult to read the strips. After they sit for a little bit they dry out or overdevelop and the results aren't accurate as well. It might be easier if you test one, take a photo, record the values, then repeat that as you need to. What you have is fine, I think there's more to the story as far as your cycling issues if the test is accurate that you're showing us. The top strip, from the tap, shows pink for nitrite and nitrates, right?
  18. nabokovfan87
    Very unfortunate, sorry about your loss.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Correct. Yes. Hang on back is just the type of filter. Hang on back filter. The basket, white one, is the media basket for this specific filter. That is the "window cut" that I refer to. It's one of the main locations for bypass on this filter. If you can, I'd recommend filling it. If you can't, then cover it with sponge to make sure the water flowing through there goes through sponge at least. Essentially it works a lot better. Can you do them, yeah, would I recommend all of them, yeah. I am not done testing, but I do need to concisely state my recommendations for modding the filter. In your case, your main issue is the skimmer. Just fill that and leave the rest for right now. Of you want to start by modding the basket that's a good choice.
  20. nabokovfan87
    You're fine. I realized after the fact that you had sterbai. I think the tetra and the Cory will do just fine at 78.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Agreed. Give the poor guy some wood or something to feel safe. The fish can't relax because there's nothing for it to rest on or hide around. A rock and some wood would really help. Something with shrimp or krill. Bug bites works too. Xtreme nano might work but it floats on me too much. Hikari has some. Depends what you have available around you. Try discus gold if you can, just verify the pellet is small enough.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Officially colored up now. Size difference is pretty interesting to see. Some are about 1/4 the length of others. Too young to determine anything, but an interesting note.
  23. nabokovfan87
    That might just be the fish version of chewing. Try pellets or brine shrimp and you might have better results. Bala sharks are awesome. That guy is definitely stressed out and hopefully doing ok. Just verify temp and that you have good oxygen and hopefully the little shark calms down a bit.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, the shrimp are small but the intakes should help keep them out. Weird.
  25. nabokovfan87
    That's really warm for corydoras. I would check planet catfish for temp ranges on your particular species that you have. I think the highest within range is 76, sometimes 78 but not a constant temp. Unless you're talking very specific species. Just something to check. Sterbai should be fine at 78. Likely the drop in temp was the result. Their way of saying thank you. 🙂 Keep an eye out, especially at night for fry.
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