Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,094

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    You'll definitely have some ammonia spikes. All the fish you mentioned like a lot of air. Do what you have to do and try to care for the situation as best you can. If you're having an issue with the tank you're going to clean, I don't know if you plan to rinse or replace things like the media in the filter. I would put half the fish in the small tank, half the fish in a bucket / tub with air and the ceramic media at the base of that bucket. That will help to keep the media cycled after you rinse it.... or start the cycle on the new media.
  2. nabokovfan87
    That face! 😂 Zoey is all white and I see that face all day long. It's so cool to see the expression on pups faces when they are trying to communicate with you. The big question is who was in the chair first! Pups are awesome. Pets are awesome. Little bits of joy.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Whatever setup you're using is pretty well dialed in. You have a skill for fish photography.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I'm not sure of the nutrition compared to the BBS. I would imagine you could feed the shrimp to preload them with vitamins the same way they do with bugs for reptiles. Spirulina brine. Etc. Interesting, but just depends on the shrimp colony.
  5. nabokovfan87
    My only advice here is to verify things against your desired temp range and your desired water parameters. If you're keeping neos, try to establish the Colony before adding fish. The swords will basically terrorize the shrimp if they feel like it. Mine sure do. I ran into a little bit of an issue when I had cooler fish (like your CPD) which usually want a 7.0 pH and a certain temp and I added other fish that wanted a slightly higher PH and temp. There is a balance there and it can work. It's just the type of thing to keep a check on and to verify. Your stocking seems fine with an * on the neocaridina and the CPDs. I would recommend swapping them for Amano shrimp and another type of tetra.
  6. nabokovfan87
    What is the substrate here? Based on this, it would be beneficial to have a liquid GH and KH test kit. The only reason I say this is to have a verification of what the strip is telling you. If your GH is too low the plants will suffer and melt. If it is too high, you can also run into some issues.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Have you ever tried small shrimp for the puffers? Especially neocaridina shrimplets are so small it might be a really good food for them. I'm not sure if you've ever kept shrimp? Really interesting to watch them do their thing.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Looks great! Nice work. 🙂
  9. nabokovfan87
    That's the thing.... Some foods are recommended. I'd have to research it all again. I believe the #1 food was rotifers. They feed on the green water, then the zoes feed on the rotifers and you're able to get good nutrition into them. It's one of those things.... Get a tank for GW, set that up, then figure out the rotifer culture, which involves saltwater care, and then figure out the maintenance of a tank with these thousands of things in there getting swirled around. I've never seen fish go after them, but you figure they would. The shrimp just ignore them for now. Yep! That's the plan. I don't think it'll do much of anything, but it's more for the fun of watching them than anything else. I admire them. Something I will breed eventually, but just not this time. 🤔 Apparently new got radium or some crazy uranium stuff in the water tests here. 😂 Entirely normal and a lot more common than people think, but yeah.... The tank has copepods and has some other critters in there. They are likely going to eat on the zoes more than anything. It's why I've been so fascinated with all of the cultures that Modified Lung has going on. It's such an interesting skill that I have no idea when I'll have that in my toolbox. One day! They sell the colonies online like everything else. Just a matter of space and all that. Having things that make it easy to manage.
  10. nabokovfan87
    A lot of cool stuff you have going on. Looks great! I imagine a lot of the fry you sell to LFS?
  11. nabokovfan87
    They have to have live food. It has to basically hit them in the mouth or they starve.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Noooooo! I would have to get them to eat. Pretty awesome read. ^^
  13. nabokovfan87
    I have been doing this for a few weeks now. I'm honestly surprised how well they do with one another. I will be excited to see how things they change. If I had to "guess" a size correlation: -Neocaridina / Caridina = Great White Shark -Amano shrimp = Megaladon I don't know if that is 5x the size, length I think they are 2-3x as big. Not quite this dramatic of a size difference, but it's quite entertaining sometimes.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Woot Woot!
  15. nabokovfan87
    If the pump isn't seated right you could have the impeller not able to fully engage and spin. If there is some sort of pump maintenance, I would imagine it would be another item on the list to check and verify. If a chunk of debris got in there, then it would also impact things. I'll see if I can find a video on the topic.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Adding the equilibrium will make things a bit hazy. It could be all you're seeing, but I can't say that with certainty. I would simply soak it with a white vinegar dilution when everything is empty and try to clean it that way. I cant guarantee it will work for certain, but the vinegar should dissolve any water hardness residue.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Everything here seems to be fine. I don't see any issues. The advice from @Sarina is wonderful and it's a great place to start. Normal when it's something we don't know what on earth is going on, the best thing to do is to run aquarium salt for any external issues. This does a variety of things. Second to that is adding botanicals like alder cones or catappa leaves to help add some anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties to the water. When I looked at the fish I saw what could be the start of fin rot. This is just something to monitor and the salt should be adequate to clear those things up. You can see the white edges on the fin, this is normal for fins that are repairing themselves. On the tail you can see softened edges and a bit of fraying, which is either indicative of fin nipping or fin rot. The whiteness on the middle of the fish could just be swelling, which is unfortunately not very clear as to any particular cause. It could be a bacterial infection, internally, excess fluid, or the start of something called dropsy. It could also just be a pregnant female who is showing signs of pregnancy. Based on the above eyes of @Colu the recommendation here is for a gram negative bacterial treatment. Either meds would be Maracyn 2 or Kanaplex. The fin rot (if that's what we're seeing) is also indicative of needing a gram negative bacterial treatment. I would encourage you to remove whatever plants or snails that need be removed and add in salt as well. Dose for me is 1/3-cup per 10G which is also the "level 2" treatment from the aquarium co-op blog article which is 1 TBSP per 2 Gallons of water. Whatever isn't in the tank, if it's only plants can go into a bucket / tote with an airstone during that time. Ich-X, Salt, botanicals, can all be used as a "soak method, but the bacterial medication treatment is going to be most effective with repeated doses as @Colu mentions above. You're treating for an "active infection" and that means soak isn't really viable for a bacterial treatment at that point. The fish won't get enough medication to fight off the disease and it could do more damage without that full dose.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Those bug ones... oooof.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Marks shrimp tanks! Please use him as a resource for any an all shrimp questions! He's got every species and a guide for everything. Select the type, watch the playlist. Saluwesi, cardinals, and neo shrimp need to be in tanks by themselves and need to be acclimated a certain way. They also need to be in different PH water and slightly different care requirements. Not entirely true. Keep water changes to about two weeks. Weekly is too often. Volume is 30%. I try to keep nitrates as low as possible. Below 10 is optimal and this is excluding any nitrate from fertilizer. That is not the same chemically as nitrate from waste.
  20. nabokovfan87
    But I don't wear those!!!! The maintenance thing is just the salt concentration. If I change water, salt goes down. Good for neos, bad for amanos...... This just leads to a rabbithole where I want more amanos. Which.... Guilty as charged.
  21. nabokovfan87
    It happens. No worries at all @JChristophersAdventures It's always cool to see what channels and videos people are checking out.
  22. nabokovfan87
    It seems we have a bit of a hatch this time around! Thousands of little zoes released. The tank does have some salt in there, but I highly doubt it's "enough". The zoes are going to be around for at least a week and maybe a little longer. Typically they will be in this state for about 5 days or so. It would be totally awesome if this tank got a random green water spike, but we can't have everything work flawlessly for us! ......alright so here's the dilemma. The amano shrimp female, gojira, released her zoes and now they are "in the way" so to speak if I want to do a water change. Salt went in on the 9th and we are at about day 5 in terms of treatment. I would not be against leaving the salt in there, but I do know that it's better for the Neocaridina if I remove that salt. They need the clean water and if they sit in salt for a bit too long there is a compounding affect. I did lose one adolescent shrimp this morning. this was the first shrimp that I had lost for this round of treatment. This doesn't say much for the sake of this dosage on the shrimp because again, we have the compounding of the earlier treatment, the length of that salt treatment, and then we have this treatment a little bit of time later. There has been a lot of water changes prior to this second treatment, but I have kept things stable for longer and have not done a water change for at least two weeks now. I've been pulling molts and my hope is we are done with the treatment. Letting this salt sit for as long as possible would ensure this! The amano shrimp zoes may have a bit of a higher survival rate, very unlikely, but even if they do not they would sink to the bottom and be a pretty awesome bit of neocaridina calcium supplements! I guess this is a good reason for having some amano shrimp and a clown pleco with your caridina or neocaridina shrimp because there is a bit of symbiosis there. I will likely end up checking the tank tonight, check for more deaths or stress signs, and then try to leave the salt in there until the normal Wednesday water changes. What would you do!?
  23. nabokovfan87
    @Guppysnail any chance we can move this to the right section? Pretty please!!!!
  24. nabokovfan87
    That's awesome. As always huge props to Streetwise for all his efforts!
  25. nabokovfan87
×
×
  • Create New...