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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Put a cup or jar of marbles in the tank and maybe the eggs will fall below? Just a bit of insight. I've had barbs and rasbora that get like this and you search the internet and go ah well that's dropsy and pull the fish from the tank. Unfortunately, there's so little clarity when it comes to abdomen swelling and to internal issues. Everything is sort of lumped into a big bucket and sometimes it's just a female fish waiting to breed or who has bred and is developing fry. As a beginner trying to learn the hobby, that's one of the things l look back on today and realize how misguided I was by the "beginner advice". For the sake of it, I would make sure you have some Epsom salt on hand for use, if you need to.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I love using the green. (Aquasky light) Between the two, the pink/red makes things in the tank look a bit weird. Because of that, I tend to use blue if I use that light. It would be nice to have the choice of what that color is, but just limitations of this version of the light and their LED choice. I've red research papers on how fish eyes work. They can see all the colors. Keep in mind they are basically designed to be able to see in lowlight conditions.
  3. nabokovfan87
    This is one I am excitedly looking forward to. Here is a video on it. There is an hour or so conversation I will try to find it as well and post below. Essentially, showing where the fish come from, issues they face in the wild, discussing a style of tank simulating nature. It's an interesting journey and I like the approach! New one from the author's channel
  4. nabokovfan87
    Here is a part one in a series on the process. It gives great detail on the how. Enjoy!
  5. nabokovfan87
    Many thanks. Yeah we "just got news" so to speak about PVC causing issues, so I am sure there is going to be more going on below the surface. It may not be something you see long term or ever, but there may be something there that does find its way into the water. The biggest concern is what the fish do. Cory had his tank where he painted some pipes black and the fish grazed on the paint until it was gone. I've had the above mentioned concern with "complex" adhesives just from my experience with them on the manufacturing side. Having to write manuals, review MSDS sheets, and the general information. There is a lot of times where "we don't know" and that is used on the sheets as well. Forever chemicals, all of this is a highly debated topic and something we are just beginning to understand the impacts, longer term, on some products. Filtration is key... and it might not just be something for the fish, but ourselves as well. Again, I am simply saying "I don't know", but the concern I would have for the above use is that it's very easy for fish to access that and possibly digest it.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Best I could do.... I did see some "miracle" stuff, but it was a different name, probably who purchased them out or something. This is a very similar design from likely the same time frame.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Rachel O'Leary is the go to....
  8. nabokovfan87
    Beautiful Betta! Congratulations. Any significance of the name?
  9. nabokovfan87
    They can get through some surprisingly small holes at times. Unfortunately. Hopefully you can figure out what is going on! I am sorry for the struggles. Maybe sand from flashing?
  10. nabokovfan87
    Epoxy would be even more risky than the glue. It's a complex material and a chemical reaction. That being said, Gorilla has a lot of information on their website including the MSDS for all their products as well as the statement that you saw on the other forum. On saltwater forums I see thread reporting issues. It would take some investigation and full clarity on the situation before I'd personally risk it. I keep a lot of bottom feeding fish that would accidentally graze on a bottom surface and potentially damage themselves. Leeching is one thing. Is it toxic? Maybe.
  11. nabokovfan87
    The one I just made for mine is ~35 minutes or so. She was being awesome. I'm excited! Thank you so much. 100%. Grace definitely doesn't hang out with SAEs like that!
  12. nabokovfan87
    Well. It's been "long enough" they didn't have any food and just did their thing. 😕 I love seeing them, I hate seeing them go.
  13. nabokovfan87
    What kind of shrimp? Amano shrimp yes, neo shrimp and caridina shrimp it's something where they are going to be more sensitive to higher doses. It's hard to explain but, trying to get a full week with salt (basically one treatment) you either have a lower dose for safety of sensitive animals or you just do what you need to do to have a strong enough dose to be effective. If that means moving certain things, then it's unfortunate. A lot of times it's a risk to plants and so it's just a matter of how severe is the situation and how much salt do you need. You can always use 1 TBSP per 5G and be ok with neo shrimp and sensitive species.
  14. nabokovfan87
    It's difficult to say. I haven't heard that it's safe or unsafe. It's one of those situations where it might be ok in one situation, but if a very sensitive species comes along and it's leeching anything or a chunk breaks off then you have an issue. I've seen something similar on aqua scaping videos, but I can't recall which source or which bottle was used. Searching online I see conflicting information.
  15. nabokovfan87
    very much so! The wood shrimp is more commonly called a bamboo shrimp. Maybe that will help out with videos and stuff on the research side of things. They eat stuff off the water column, so having a food that stays suspended and multiple feedings is very helpful to keep them thriving. They will find a spot and basically be there most of the day trying to get food. Here is a very good, trusted source for me, regarding vampire shrimp care. I hope this helps! https://aquariumbreeder.com/vampire-shrimp-detailed-guide-care-diet-and-breeding/
  16. nabokovfan87
    I'd recommend making a separate thread for the disease on this fish. It may or may not be related to the nitrite issue. For now, it's all one thread, so that's absolutely fine and I'll chime in here regarding the fish side of things. 3G is pretty small for a fish, so I don't know if there was any sort of added stress by being in that size of tank. Some nano tanks can be quite tall, which would put more pressure on the swim bladder of a fish. Internal issues (commonly labelled "swim bladder disease" are often a result of something like poor maintenance or poor water quality. This would directly link those nitrite issues with something like internal organ issues, excess fluid, or immune system stress. The fish is basically having to recover from illness while under high stress, leading to more stress. It's a very tough situation. My focus and best advice would be water changes, daily, 50% water changes. I would not do more/less than that because it will be too much stress. The daily (no more than once per 24 hours) use of prime will help detoxify things and let the filtration handle the nitrite, processing it into nitrate. Fixing the biological filtration, technique, or tank setup to adequately work for the fish is the key to fixing everything. I need more detail here as to what is *really* going on. What size is the tank and what is your stocking? What is the filtration? (and please share full details and photos regarding it's setup) What is your normal maintenance routine? How long has the tank been setup and established for and were there any recent changes? It won't detoxify anything. It helps to reduce or alleviate symptoms from nitrite and ammonia burn on the fish.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Lots of snails!
  18. nabokovfan87
    1000% I had this happen with known good fish that I ran meds through weeks before shipping. One small stress, a hot day, a slight delay, a dropped box, it can stress the fish so much and that does some very stressfull things to the fish. I have also had fish that went through QT, then had issues right after they were done. It happens in all forms. The longer you can observe them, let the plants and tank do what need be, the better.
  19. nabokovfan87
    You can feed them. Keep to light feeding and keep in mind that you definitely don't want to overfeed. I would feed every other day or every 3 days. Your 10G can act as your QT tank. You can use something else to hold plants while you need to, if you need to.
  20. nabokovfan87
    One of the best ways is to precondition the water. Using a "brute" trashcan from rubbermaid, which they do sell wheels for, you can fill that up with a good amount of water. At the base of the can you'd fill it with lava rock or other media and use an airstone to circulate the water. You fill that up and let it cycle. Normally you can off-gas ammonia in ~1-2 days. Size that up to ~700 gallons and you're looking at a much larger storage container, but the principle is the same. Cory has videos in his old fishroom showing how he set his up.
  21. nabokovfan87
    It reminds me of a tropical reef. That is.... all I can say to try to describe it. Beautiful tank.
  22. nabokovfan87
    The salt went in on the 9th and we are now well past the "7 days" I had planned for the soak treatment. This was the originally specified 1 TBSP per 5 Gallons dose that is often recommended. Ultimately, this dose works fine and I did lose 2-3 shrimp over the treatment. Given the amount of water changes, stress, pulling molts, I am not surprised at this. Ultimately, I feel safe doing this in future and it's a lot lower dose than I normally would do for the sake of fish treatments. Today was the second water change of the week. I did the first one on Monday to gently lower the salt dose, pull 5G and then replaced it. Today I did another 5G pull and replaced it with normal tap water. I will probably do one more and then go ahead and add back in the plants. I feel like they are all going to be mush at this point, but it's difficult to say until we see it. By all accounts the colony is doing well and my hope is that the worst of the parasite is dealt with. I have a lot more information through this experience regarding treatment of the SJ and it's not something where, given the common "tips", that I feel are adequate at all. We know you need to salt dip to remove them as one method. The other thing we know is that you need ~14 days for the eggs to hatch for a second treatment. Following that is another ~14 days of monitoring for signs that you need to start all over again. So at minimum you're look at a 30 day QT for any new shrimp. I was doing the cleaning, checking for molts, and I found this female shrimp. She is by far the best coloration I have and highest quality compared to the shrimp around her and so I had to try to snap a photo! Please excuse it if the photo doesn't look perfect or is blurry. I also had my first cull check on this tank. These are some of the blue/red Rili genes I am seeing and it results in slow coloration and a weird discoloration in some of the adult shrimp. I will try to keep an eye on more of these, but I think the female that died recently was the one that had these genes. Based on what I saw I am due for 2-3 more hatches of shrimp and I did watch one female releasing more baby shrimp today. I will keep an eye on the tank, one more cull if I need to prior to adding the wood back. Following that I can do the water change and proceed to get things "settled" again. I am certain they are looking forward to having the plants back!
  23. nabokovfan87
    Unfortunately this isn't uncommon and entirely common for small things like shrimp. There are "shrimp versions" of the same aquarium you have to cover the intake as well as items on etsy that can be easily added. I would encourage you to look into that latter option as a means to try and prevent issues long term. Another thing you can do is quilting mesh glued into place over the grate so that things cannot spill over into the rear chamber. Secondary to the above, I would also recommend adding aquarium salt and an air stone. This helps with oxygenation while the meds are in the water as well as the salt. You would essentially.... 1. Pull the plants into a bucket for 1 week, they will be fine. You can add an airstone to keep the water better quality for them. 2. Dose in your salt dose, 1 tbsp per 2 Gallons (which is 1/3 cup per 10 Gallons). Start your treatment of Kanaplex, follow the directions on the package of Kanaplex as directed above. This will dilute the salt over time, but have the desired impact of the salt treatment.
  24. nabokovfan87
    That seriously does look like a bit of deformity. I feel bad for the fish, because if this is true it didn't grow up properly due to genes or developmental issues. 😞 I can see the two mouths and two "chins" and what you'll usually see in the case of a deformity is one of the "mouths" being the dominant one. I don't know if it's something on video (in person) where you see both of the "mouths" trying to eat or chewing or anything like that. Welcome to the forums though, happy to have you here! Perhaps the store will replace it for you?
  25. nabokovfan87
    Well... I follow what is on the bottle itself. It's a tried and true method and it's pretty straightforward in my view. 1. Before dosing any meds, clean the tank, minimum 30% water change. 2. Remove carbon, skimmer, or UV. 3. SHAKE VIGIROUSLY. (way more than you think you should) 4. Dose into a high flow section, 5 mL per 20G of water. 5. Calculate the volume of water appropriately by measuring to exclude substrate. (top of substrate to the waterline) 6. Do no overdose. 1 Treatment is 5-7 days, do not use it any more often than every 3 days. Meaning, the minimum you should be doing is 5 days per dose, followed by a 30% water change.
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