john2436753

I got the puffer about 5 days ago. He is about 5 inches. Up to this point, he has only eaten a few earthworms. The last few days, he has been sluggish. Yesterday, I added Expel-P. Today, he was very active along the front glass. He did not seem interested in earthworms today. I have also tried shrimp, krill, bloodworms, and clams on the half-shell. When I got my Mbu 2 years ago, he was eating within the first day. Once he ate for the first time, he was a voracious eater. It seems odd to me that after 5 days, the Cross River puffer still is not eating well. Am I overreacting?

I'm 100% with you except for the issue that I would need at the bare minimum a 400-gallon container to cycle the amonia out with the amount of water that I go through.

Recently, there has been a large increase in ammonia in my tap water. I am accustomed to doing large water changes because of the stocking of my tanks. I always double dose Prime declorinator. Long story short, I did back-to-back water changes of 35% each day to lower my nitrates. Two days later many of my fish were dying and I could figure out what the issue was since the tank was so mature. The only parameter that was high in my tank was nitrite. While there were no traces of nitrite in my water, I did find that there was 1 ppm of ammonia in the tap water. It seems to me that the prime did not allow enough time to allow for the full conversion of the large amount of ammonia. I guess what I am wondering is how could I continue doing large water changes without the high concentration of amonia. I really don't want to do RODI just because of the amount of water that I change between all of my fish tanks. Also, my water is already hard which seems to work well for my Mbu puffer and various rainbow fish. Recommendations on a good flow-through system that can handle 500-700 gallons per week would be very helpful. Thank you!

The supplier got back to me and informed me that they are Corydoras Gossei. Thank you so much for the help, I did not expect them ID it for me.

Recently, I ordered 20 Scleromystax barbatus, however, one of the corys that came with the group appears to not be a Scleromystax barbatus. I would like to find out what the other species of cory is so that I can get more, or give the one I have to someone with the same species.

My Flowerhorn has not eaten for 3 weeks now. He will attempt to eat the food only to spit it back out. I have attempted many different foods. It does not appear that he has anything lodged in his throat. I have attempted to medicate both with salt and prazi pro. This began when I located him to a new tank in the fish room. The new tank is the exact same size and temperature (81). The water quality has been stable with ammonia of 0, nitrite of 0, and nitrate of 5 ppm. I can see that he is getting skinnier, however, there are no real signs of any infection or other issue, just general health deterioration.

Isn’t epistylis found in patches where while my fish have it all over the body.

Thank you. Also the gills are very red.

Some people have told me that this is ich. I have dealt with ich many times. This just doesn’t seem like it because of the tenacity in which it is attacking the fish with the medication‘s I’m using. This is a picture from earlier today to show how much worse it has gotten over one night even with the use of ich x and salt.

I was hoping for you to help me clarify that it is velvet and to see if you agree with my treatment method. Currently, I have added Ich X and 2 tablespoons of salt per gallon of water. Additionally, the water temperature is at 84. Sadly, they have only gotten worse.

Hi, I am currently transitioning my 320 gallon aquarium from a very low tech tank ,that only uses a shop light, to a high tech tank. I have ordered two fluval 3.0 48 inch lights and all the necessary CO2 equipment. I was wondering how many bubbles per minute of CO2 I should do for the tank. Thank you!