nabokovfan87

If you haven't... be sure to check out "Chasing Coral" Nice work.

I think this is probably a great place to start. I looked. Can't find it. Joel and Cory did a tank for these guys. It's unlisted so now the search tools don't work or I just can't figure out the right words. I was trying to recommend the Schoutedenti Puffer.

Can you add a photo of the second test with the scale? By the first photo, it looks to be more than 25, but that could just be a timing thing.

From SeriouslyFish: This is very similar to the tub/basket method shown in the video as well.

Can you point to the markings on the photo you're talking about just so we have a clarity?

I think this is probably a great place to start. I looked. Can't find it. Joel and Cory did a tank for these guys. It's unlisted so now the search tools don't work or I just can't figure out the right words. I was trying to recommend the Schoutedenti Puffer.

Cc @Cinnebuns Do you think ( @Guppysnail) that having one species in there makes it a lot easier to see the breeding colors and that behavior?

If you have a few million of these.... Oh man. I'm excited for this. Edit. This may be helpful too.

The leaf on the middle left of the frame I would pull. If you see the fern seeds developing, let the leaf do its thing.

Nano USB pumps (for me) were literally only strong enough for one device. I generally only prefer them to operate an air stone as I tend to run more air than they could provide to a single sponge filter. Keep in mind there are variations from pump to pump, I've only owned one.

They can be extremely difficult not control. Especially when baby snails are the size of a grain of sand. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've heard plenty of "well it's time to take down the tank" stories and I did that myself due to a snail infestation. They were started for puffers and I had no way to control them, pretty quickly.

Add a handful of them to the base of the tub. Keep the filter with foam.

I think you're much better off running an air filter or a small corner filter for the QT setup. The one you listed is basically just a device to move water and does not support much (if any,) bacteria. Some nano pumps come with a little block of foam on the intake. This is basically that same thing but with a spraybar output. I would opt for something like this....

Should be fine to add the other 3.

From Aqueon. They don't have all of the correct talking points, but it is indeed surprising and welcomed to see this sort of an impact in the hobby. https://www.aqueon.com/nutrinsect Here is the ingredients list from the tropical version of the food mentioned.

@Cinnebuns can you also attach that video of the filtration showing the surface movement you took when we were discussing it. Maybe it was two weeks ago?

I had some in a 29G. They did not do well. The issue for me was that they did not have enough line of sight breaks. I would recommend a heavily planted (to the waterline) aquascape. Something with swim-throughs and breaks that give the fish a place to call their own zone as well as escape to. During feeding, aggression will be at it's worst and that's where some of the key issues show up. It's not the type of fish, in my experience, where they do well with just tossing food in and calling it good. Learning to feed them using pinsettes or getting them to actually eat snails is critical. They can be very picky. You will need patience, and a sort of "backup plan" if food option A or B don't work out. In another section we were talking about using cull shrimp as a food option, especially shrimplets, Given your setup, that may be something to try too.

Makes sense. It's going to look different based on the screen of the person viewing too, so there's always a bit of subjectivity. If the sag ever bugs you too much or causes an issue, there is a technique we had to add some rigidity in my last job. I don't think I can divulge how or why, but let's just say it was a high stress load. Tube, inside of a tube, inside of a tube. Often this was 3-4 tubes cut to varying lengths held in place with hardware. Something for this application might be adding a secondary tube to reduce the sag and then adding corner braces. You could also support the middle section via the wall, but not sure if you wish to do that. The sketches by Odd_Duck showed the wall mount methodology and looked pretty awesome.

A bit of a clarification here.... If you're treating for Parasites (internal or external) I would highly recommend @Odd Duck's technique for using both meds simultaneously to cover your basis. The normal methodology for parasites is a minimum of ~3 treatments with 4-6 being a preferred range. Day 1: Clean the tank with a heavy gravel vac and water change, Dose in expel-P (Levamisole) and blackout the tank for 24 hours. This is because levamisole is light sensitive. Day 2-6: Water change, heavy siphon and proceed with use of either paracleanse or prazipro per the directions on the package. These are similar medications with a slight variation on their active ingredients. Repeat this for a total of 4-6 treatments in a severe case. I will try to find one of Odd_Duck's posts which clarifies if this is to be done weekly or bi-weekly. Here is Odd_Duck's Directions: Levamisole (Expel-P): Weekly Prazipro/Paracleanse: Bi-weekly

Hello All! I have been seeing a few things on videos online and I've seen things over the years from pretty much every youtuber that covers the hobby on this topic. I was reflecting on Zenzo's video in my head while watching a random video this week and it let me to a conclusion. Snails might not be a beginner friendly option for new hobbyists. Let me explain. If we think about this logically there should be some snails that you'd want to avoid just to make your life easier. Some snails might be better suited for a beginner hobbyist, while others should be avoided. Beginner Friendly Snail Traits: 1. This snail would help eat algae and leftover food 2. This snail would breed slowly or not be able to reproduce in freshwater as a means to limit bioload impact 3. This snail would not damage equipment easily 4. This snail would not harm anything in the tank, such as other fish 5. This snail would not cause exceed "need" (more on this later) In the wild, there are a lot of different methods of survival. One of the main methods for creatures lower on the food chain is to simply propel the population forward using a sheer number of offspring. One amano shrimp female can have hundreds or thousands of zoes per spawn. some fish can do the same thing. Certain snails also use this tactic in some fashion. If you put that methodology into an enclosed ecosystem and you don't have a way to control that population boom, then logically it is going to be a perpetual issue over time. For clarity, I do not know enough to say "avoid these snail species", but I have ran into this issue in the past. Maybe this becomes an issue in a few weeks or even months, but it is often an issue and something that beginner hobbyists very well could struggle to overcome. The most often beginner advice is to recognize the tank as an ecosystem and understand that snails can play a key role in that ecosystem, but as Dean mentions in the video above, there are some issues when it comes to how much of a bioload the snails can impart. Along the same line of thinking, how snails reproduce can compound this issue. Someone sees this "beehive" looking structure in their tank and it instantly freaks them out. Honestly, it would freak me out too if I just happened upon the tank and I saw a big snail clutch. Nerites pepper hardscape and plants with egg casings which can be very difficult to remove for some hobbyist. Some snails use cloning and don't require a male and female to reproduce. There is a lot of methods of reproduction and if I was a beginner hobbyist trying to understand what is going on in my tank easily, I would really struggle at times to fully grasp all of the things to look out for in terms of keeping snails. Worst case scenario, someone goes to the pet store to buy a single mystery snail. Once they get home the snail lays a clutch that is fertile and they don't notice the clutch under the hood on their tank. After a bit of time one snail is now hundreds, in a 10G tank that isn't meant to have that load. I can see how an experience like this would push someone to avoid the hobby if that was their first experience. This also extends pretty heavily into pest snails (pond or bladder snails) hitchhiking onto a plant. FInally, the last point on the list above and trying to avoid a snail that would put too much "need" on a tank. We do know snails can use up the minerals in the water. Whether this is done via food or done via mineral absorption, there are going to be some circumstances where someone might run into GH/KH issues in their water and that could lead to a PH crash, shrimp deaths, fish not having the correct water parameters, and a lot of what I am getting at here is some pretty complex issues that aren't immediately intuitive for someone who is just trying to get their hands wet in this hobby. Especially a younger hobbyist, a true beginner, I can only imagine how slippery the slope can be when it comes to something like this. (and this is something we have seen on the forums!) Ultimately, I don't really know what my beginner recommendation would be for a snail. I think using amano shrimp might be easier for most beginner tanks, but that is just my own perspective. I have ran into issues keeping snails and I was that beginner hobbyist at the time. I have learned a lot more about them since and I do plan to have snails eventually. What do you think? What would your best "beginner friendly" snail be and why?

Try somethine like panacure-C or No Planaria

Much better photo than the previous one. Color and contrast is good. There is some tuning, but it's night and day better. If that photo isn't in your signature soon....... or on your profile somewhere....!

Congratulations on your tetra. I had no idea how to breed fish like tetra and barbs when I had them. I miss them.... I am hoping that one day soon I have some barbs and I can encourage them to breed. It seems to be my way. Not have enough to purchase the full 20+ shoals, but to breed them and end up with a good amount.

Nope. I would just let it do its thing. How many rasbora in total do you have to add to the tank? You might end up seeing 0-0 and then seeing nitrates. Not seeing ammonia or nitrite isn't a good or bad thing. It's just a sign of water being safe for the fish. Seeing the nitrate means you know it's processing the ammonia from the fish.

No. It's a weird issue where the food basically has to hit them in the face. They can't move until they progress a little.