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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Morning number 2 and there was definitely some behavior. I saw the younger male/female trying the T-Pose and seemingly trying to get things going. It's that sense of "there's something in the water". I checked on the tank when I got back and everyone is calm with no activity. The storm lands in about an hour. Dropping food in and we'll go from there!
  2. Correct. For rimmed aquariums yes. They also discuss this in the store build video
  3. Oxygenating the water comes in a few methods, one of them is similar to what you see in waterfalls where you have the white bubbles in the water that dissolve and churn. The other (main) method is going to be surface movement. If you're not seeing ripples or waves on the surface of the water then I would recommend adding an air stone or consider removing the baffle. There are a few different designs available too, so maybe there is a different style baffle that works well for the tank. If you have an undersized filter, I can see the baffle cut back some much needed oxygenation. (20g rated hob on a 20g tank for instance often isn't high enough flow)
  4. , There is all kinds of methods. Sometimes it's days after a water change or the days leading up to/after a big storm. The ones I have are a bit funky that way. I am hoping to get to generation 2 in my water and then I can really determine what is possible in my water with these corydoras. Common things to trigger that I have found that works for the black Cory: -GH change (I believe this was mentioned by secret history in your aquarium) -feeding/conditioning -random weather systems -flow and places to lay said eggs. (Changed co2 diffuser and the equipment location and they spawned) For the pandas: -add water. -oxygenated water (water changes) I really wish I could find an updated version of this talk. Nothing so far. Sometimes you'll just see behavior for weeks and nothing else. Having the big ball of suss and seeing them playing in it is extremely encouraging. One of the best triggers honestly is having a known surface or material they like to use and it's almost like they just know.
  5. @Khole new fish I think it bugged out. No photo! 😞
  6. It's really awesome to hear that the journey in the film was enjoyable. I'll dive into my thoughts on a rewatch here shortly, but I just wanted to express how happy I am that so far everyone has enjoyed it! 🙂
  7. I think those are usually in tanks as a "set it forever" type of thing/ The UGF things MST has I mean, but it's a bit of a blessing you discovered it because there's a high chance some get stuck in there I would think. Unfortunately, good to know this won't work. I was considering something similar.
  8. It almost looks like equipment damage or smashed into the lid potentially. For corydoras you can't really fill the tank to the brim. Is there any other fish in the tank apart from corydoras or decor that may have caused an issue?
  9. A bit of promising activity thismorning. Meal #2.5 of the day so far. I'll feed em once more before bed.
  10. Take a picture with a scale / ruler. let's see what we see
  11. I didn't even know there was such a thing. Here's a spec sheet.
  12. Might be an Australian strain of amano type of shrimp. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caridina_typus
  13. That definitely looks really, really bad. If you're not wanting to Euthanize the fish I would immediately run a few things. 1. Maracyn (Erythromycin) 2. Aquarium Salt 3. Ich-X (malachite green for anti-fungal) 4. Catappa leaves (anti bacteria and anti fungal) 5. Add oxygenation via airstone If you don't see any improvement, I really would euthanize to limit suffering. The main concern is making sure the fish can eat and function properly. Whatever caused the injury needs to be fixed in the original tank.
  14. For some reason I heard jaws music. 😂
  15. ADA has some new lights being released with an app you might be interested in as well, just a note. Filtration is tough because it's difficult to say what would work for the size of the tank. I wonder if/what filtration UNS has designed for that specific tank in question. https://ultumnaturesystems.com/delta-aquarium-canister-filter/
  16. Oh really! That's interesting. I do have swordtails in the big tank. The tank they are in now is designed to have some as well. They are going under meds right now in QT.
  17. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh So I think the confusion here is PH specifically isn't the real concern. What matters, in my experience, is KH and GH. PH is treated similar to TDS as sort of a number without real meaning for me. If water is stagnant (no oxygenation) the PH can shift based on that parameter. If water is full of co2, low oxygen, that also can shift the PH. Once you have that in your tank and you have the oxygenation adequate you will (and should) see the PH shift. Part of this is the process of off-gassing. So even though your tap is PH of whatever number, KH is actually a bit more informative as to what the normal PH value would be. In my case I have a PH from the tap around 6.8-7.0, KH is around 3 degrees. I can boost my KH up to ~4 degrees and things remain stable for me and hold that PH. As mentioned in the ACO blog article, KH is a bit tied into the organic matter in the tank. Organics will use up that KH and drop your PH as a result. I apologize if all of that seems very complex, but I just wanted to clarify that what you really should be concerned with is the KH range that is acceptable for the fish as well as your KH in your aquarium/tap. The most common way to lower PH/KH for harder water is to use active substrate, aquarium soil, which will absorb KH and then drop that KH value. The plants can use those ions and then you have a more acidic water parameter for the tank than when you started. Over time this stabilizes as the soil itself "fills up" with all the KH/GH ions. You replenish them via water changes. This is a common technique used for keeping caridina species and wild caught fish that need those lowered parameters. The issue long term is that in order to keep the KH/PH low you need to find a way of reducing it long term from the tap. RO or Distilled water is the main method people use and then they add the KH they need back in with buffering powders. I think another real world example is something cory outlines in this video. It's a bit of a longer explanation, but I promise you the video is extremely informative and you will learn from the discussion on the topic of keeping tetra fish and their sourcing. As mentioned above, stability is absolutely the key. That being said KH/PH does matter in some circumstances. My amano shrimp don't like to go above 7.6 or they turn bright red and have issues. Same with my corydoras. I've seen it happen. I've seen softwater fish have issues in hard water because I just did not understand enough when purchasing them. Acclimation methods, tank stability, it's all related and leads to a healthy fish, long term. We're all hear to help and we all have our own experiences and knowledge to bring to the conversation. It's a great community and it's so awesome to be able to have interesting conversation like this about the animals we care for!
  18. Hey Everyone. I've been conditioning these guys to breed because we've been having storms on and off for about 3 weeks now. Lighting, rain, off and on here and there. Well, the big one is coming this weekend and I would like to hopefully do some good out of that. I am posting just to ask what I need to do, verify everything, and make sure I don't leave anything out. Conditioning = feeding 2x as much food as normal, heavy protein being favored. Tank setup 1 - they've laid eggs in before, 2-3 spawns so far, the last one was not viable as it was a new female. The first spawns were back to back, so one triggered the next. They laid on wood, glass, etc. There isn't a ton of plant cover, but flow is good in this tank. Maybe I should add more or air? Tank setup 2 - air powered, very high flow, wood, glass as spawning materials as well as a gigantic ball of susswassertang they can use. This is the tank the adults are in right now because if they spawn I can move them to the main tank and raise the fry without issue. I can use ice to drop temp, i can do water changes with this method to drop temp as well. I have GH and KH buffers so if I need to raise PH or raise GH I can do so. I can lift the lids to get more "atmosphere" in the tank and open the window in the room as a means to allow the sound or humidity to better get into the room. Beyond that I am at a loss if there's anything in particular I need to do. Is there anything I missed?
  19. Storm on Saturday - Sunday. We'll see what happens. My sheer hope is to see spawning activity. Today they were hiding pretty hard. I moved the adults to the 29G and there's ~17 fry in the big tank. If they don't spawn off this... it isn't cause of storms and I'm back to GH/KH interactions.
  20. my co-op ones I broke just being a bit weird. I went to rest them on the edge of a specimen container and the weld opened up. They work fine, just held together with a rubber band. My Fluval ones, like I said, I honestly just think it's a material thing. Trying to use them without the rubber tips means they need to be precise, these arent at all. One side is slightly longer than the other. They just make a V because of how they were designed. Really weird. I just need to find a proper pair. I have "gone through the motions" with all of these to just try to really understand if it's me or the tool. So far I just need to find something with materials I prefer that hold up the way I think they should. I have been eyeing the UNS / Aquavitro ones, but I need to sell some shrimp first. This is how I hold the plant.
  21. Awesome! Welcome to the forums.
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