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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Can we do a quick sanity check..... What meds (if any) are in the tank? Can you pull one of those white things into a small container out of the tank and photo it? What is your parameters for the tank, temperature, and has anything else changed recently? When was the last filter cleaning, is all the equipment functioning? M/F Ratio seems ok (based on what you last said) and you have fish with fin nipping issues which could lead to secondary issues.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I would start here. Figuratively by measuring and literally by checking heaters or certain equipment.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Anything bottom-mid dwelling for me would typically "do better" in a 20L vs. a 20H simply because it makes it easier to create more cover for them. In general, I think fish want swimming space across an area. Tall helps to create division, but it might not (maybe never) create the environment where you have fish preferring to swim up or down as apposed to back and forth. Physcially I think this is just due to pressure, lateral line readings. Similar to how we perceive a fish that is at the wrong spot in the water or laying on the ground as having an issue, if one was swimming up/down a lot we would view it as stressed. I've only ever come across one instance where I wasn't happy with a tank selection for a fish, the 55G with the RTBS. My issue was that while the fish could swim across, there wasn't enough space front to back to let the fish swim and turn around easily. Even when she was going up/down the glass it was just this weird situation where I wanted her to have "more room". Hopefully that helps. I think you're on the right path with the 20L and the above recommendations.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I don't think you need to use both equilibrium and GH/KH+. If you were using equilibrium and KH+ only that might be useful, but both equilibrium and GH/KH would impact your GH. This might not be a bad thing, but just something to note.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Right. Root tabs. That's what I need. 😂 Totally wanted to let the jar settle for a week before I added any.
  6. nabokovfan87
    No not at all. I had two tanks. I had a 75G and a 29G. We moved. Everything went into tubs. Black corydoras in one, pandas in the other. When winter came I was able/allowed to setup a 10G I had for pandas on a dresser and then have the 29G for the black corydoras (this journal). The dresser wilted and started to buckle, so that 10 moved to a desk while I got another 20L or 20G for them. Because I had a RTBS I wanted her to have the bigger space so I got the 29. Then I had family issues both tanks went to my room for the sake of sanitation and the fish having a safe and comfortable environment. The pandas were always in the family tank, the black corydoras were my own. So.... When I moved that tank to my room I tried to move the existing 29G. Too heavy and I have too much water. The only way to move it was to drain it and empty it. The buckets already had fish, so that wasn't going to happen. I currently have QT / plant tank. Plant jar and 2 29Gs. Only two of those 4 are meant for livestock. The rest is literally just for me to grow plants and enjoy green life in my room. Because I am trying to get shrimp going everything needs to go back to one tank. My own personal 29G is going to be for shrimp (my other journal) which means that I don't want to cross the black and panda corydoras. I have been trying to re-home them since I had moved and everything was in tubs before fish started freezing to death. I know it seems like a lot, but it's basically two tanks, then one, then two, now we are going back to the original two but just with a lot of movement. I use 4-5 buckets. 1-2 for fish, one for plants, one for rocks/wood.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Version 2.0 I wonder if I can actually get some hairgrass to grow this way.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Yeah that Rhizome doesn't look healthy. 😞 I would keep a close eye on it, maybe move it to a jar. Some people say the rot spreads in disease form, it could just be a section that went through some trauma.
  9. nabokovfan87
    What is volvox? I've never heard of it. Is this one you have a culture of on your journal? Most of that stuff is food, not necessarily. Once green water is cleared up you will see them crash, so you'd want to be aware of a ammonia spike or something maybe.
  10. nabokovfan87
    I have to move the pandas and the panda tank, move the swords, then move that tank, then I can work on moving things over in the black corydoras tank. It's going to be a process and there's a few moving parts. Replacing the 2 29s with the 75 and then that should give me slightly more room. Need to arrange some things around and see if/what will fit before I do anything. Today was just to see if I can even use that tank still.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. Working on some things. Felt good to see it again.
  12. nabokovfan87
    If you look at something on Amazon from companies like aukey/Anker they color code their ports based on certain things. Blue is often the normal, standard USB 3.0 and the "normal one".
  13. nabokovfan87
    Honestly. Take a week, two weeks and just let the tank run and settle. Go to the shop but force yourself not to get anything. Research, etc. Let us give you ideas!!!! 😂 I'm glad you and those around you are feeling better. I'd go with all tetra or all rasboras just because of temps. What do you think of something like the silvertip tetras or the green rasboras/CPDs? Needle valve issue and too many bubbles per second or do you think the solenoid was the issue? I apologize if you already mentioned what specifically happened.
  14. nabokovfan87
    This is the only trouble spots I could find... It looks like it's the rim, not the interior. The ground doesn't show signs of seeping. It is also very annoying that even the ground outside isn't flat.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Screaming for a piece of manzanita/ghost wood or specifically pacific driftwood. The first two come in a large variety of decor ranges where some are more like branches and others are a bit larger and bulky. I get the feeling of a sunken log amongst the ocean/river floor. For nano fish, they like to swim through and around, so taller thinner branch shapes is best. Tumbleweed or desert bush style. (Look up an actual manzanita in it's natural habitat, like that) I really like what you have so far! Sidenote, wrong tag tag because it was a quote tag but you get the idea! My apologies. If it wasn't on mobile, I'd totally fix it. Hygro pinnatifida bushes! Microsword (or DHG) on the surface. They do have some stuff like crispus and Pogo Erectus that is a nice addition to the background texture as well. Short up front, very short stuff on the rocks like nana/petite or small buce and then just one or two striking things in the back.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Blue dream vs. blue rili you'd see the black on the tail. Take a carbon rili + Blue dream to make the blue rili. You'll have some culls, so some may not have any rili pattern on the tail. The body being a darker tone is often normal, thicker than the tail so it often looks like a rili. The more consistent the color, the higher the grade of each type. One of the big indicators people use is leg patterns.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Posted in that section. Yeah, for sure. The uh... vinyl stuff you can add/remove as you see fit. It is tight against the glass, spritz some water and it's back on the glass. It's an adjustment at first, but 3-sided tanks are actually nice to have for QT or just for a sensitive fish. Even something like noise pollution, vibration, that could be at play here too.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Try putting posterboard or cardstock on the sides of the tank. You can easily remove it when you need to and that might be enough to remove the issue of reflections. If you notice him upset with the snail, move the snail and maybe try otos or something for algae. Some bettas are just very, very feisty. Geppetto often is making a nest and so maybe he's just hyper sensitive to everything around. Heck, maybe the reflection is causing him to make more nests? (I just don't know enough about bettas to say if it's healthy or not) Some cases of fin rot are purely caused by stress and so fixing stress is a way to approach it. If all else fails and you're really unsure what to do. Remove the fish and snail, plants, turn it into saltwater. RR the plants and then go and QT the livestock and monitor. Let the salt run in the tank and use that as your antibacterial to remove any remaining gram negative stuff that's lingering. You'd dose it to be saltwater at a high enough dose and just run it like you would carbon or something for a few weeks. Then reset the tank. You might be able to go a bit heavier on the botanicals, keep the water a bit darker and that might help with stress (lower the reflections, lower the light intensity, etc.
  19. nabokovfan87
    After: Little guy in the middle there. Probably is about 3/8" o so now. Growing strong!
  20. nabokovfan87
    That vinyl film, apply that to the sides. Or the black paint or something. It helps to reduce reflections. For a lot of QT or Betta setups it's common to have the back and sides blocked. 😞 I'll check out the disease section! 😂 See.... This is why I have more than just Corydoras now. In the 29 wormageddon tank. Very cool.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Luigi is getting some food in his cave.
  22. nabokovfan87
    The plan was to have some susswassertang and moss growing. Right now it's just a jar with some S. Repens trimmings
  23. nabokovfan87
    Ah. That makes sense. Condensation and stuff maybe did a number? Definitely a bizarre situation. The tank has a glass lid on it between the light and the water?
  24. nabokovfan87
    Yep. Cory eggs. 🙂 Let them do their thing. Honestly. More eggs will come. The tank they are in has plenty of food for them. When you feed with the fish, you can add in some smaller powders and let them eat or graze on it. I've raised a lot of fry with just repashy, add in a bit extra water to make it softer, and just let that be available to them at night. This was before I knew you could feed repashy powder. They will hide and graze on the plants and rocks and eat things off that way, good for their gut to be in an established tank.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Verify things with a second test method. That's where I'd start. Alright. If I was in your shoes there's a few things I would do. This is specifically what I recommend for any tank that has ANY cycling issues. Full Reset..... A. Siphon the graven well, drain the water in the tank. Rinse everything in the filter, clean it thoroughly. Your filter SHOULD NOT be simply a cartridge. There's more on this later. B. Fill the tank with water and add dechlor and an air stone. Let it run while you figure the rest out. This is the bare minimum of what you need to cycle a tank. C. Every few days add some food or ammonia. After one or two weeks, change water like you normally would. Keep adding food, keep changing water. Once a week, test things to see how the filtration is doing. .... Filtration. Please send full details and photos of how it's setup. This is very likely exactly what's wrong and why you have had cycle issues, apart from time. The water is very likely brown from phosphates and rotting plant matter, food, and wood. Tannins are perfectly fine and healthy. The real question is about PH, KH, and GH. Are they good for the fish you're interested in?
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