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StephenP2003

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Everything posted by StephenP2003

  1. StephenP2003
    The medium one is perfect. Honestly, I use the medium one for all of my AquaClears -- 30, 50, 70, and 110. The large one is... large. I use it for my FX6 intake.
  2. StephenP2003
    I did not even think about this. I use instant ocean for my brine shrimp.
  3. StephenP2003
    I was on the chat fairly often and pretty much always catch the live streams. The chat was nice but the forum style is definitely better for this hobby.
  4. StephenP2003
    My fert regimen has been working very well, and I am the same as you -- all of my tanks are heavily stocked and do a great job of making their own nitrates. For those tanks, I dose potassium on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and I dose trace minerals on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I do water changes every weekend. In some of the tanks with red plants, I also dose Iron on the trace mineral days. In my betta tank and quarantine tank that houses plants, I just use easy green and trace. I was using seachem potassium and trace, but recently switched to Brightwell brand. Higher concentration, similar price. Seachem sure does sell a lot of water. Eventually I'm going to get into the dry-fert mixing to save money (dosing 7 tanks is costly). If the co-op sold a nitrogen-free easy green, I'd be all over that just for the convenience. Also of note, I had intended to dose phosphate alongside the potassium, but I got a test kit and realized my phosphate levels were almost 2ppm out of the tap.
  5. StephenP2003
    I actually just got one for my brine shrimp hatchery, different brand. I keep my house cold so it takes too long to hatch at room temp, and the heaters I have tend to fluctuate the temp too much in that small volume of water. I like it so much that I am tempted to get 7 more for my tanks, just for the safety benefit.
  6. StephenP2003
    Easy one -- popping open that fluval fx6 canister and rinsing all the media.
  7. StephenP2003
    For a time, I was using the nifty drip-acclimation product off Amazon that allows you to drip directly into the bag while it floats -- the big fish-shipping retailers even recommend lengthy acclimation periods-- but one day on whim I decided to test the bag water, and I now agree with others that it's probably better to just get the fish into clean water. I really focused on slow acclimating the sensitive species, when it was those that probably needed plop and drop the most. I still drip LFS fish.
  8. StephenP2003
    This is exactly my approach. Bedroom, living room, dining room, and one each in my two kids' rooms. I bounce from hobby to hobby, so I keep the aquarium hobby integral to daily life. If I had a "fish room," it would need to fit one of two extremes: Either very hands-on requiring lots of attention, or self-sufficient enough to withstand long, inconsistent periods of neglect.
  9. StephenP2003
    I'm guessing you just leave it in the tank unless you're replacing pads. I would injure myself day one on that thing. My thickest glass is half inch, and the medium flipper does a passable job on it, only because of the scraper. The small one was a regrettable purchase. Too weak, requires too much effort on anything but the softest buildup on glass.
  10. StephenP2003
    I'm definitely not breeding for profit, but I'm accumulating some opportunities for store credit -- that's all my LFS does. Livebearers and cherry shrimp doing whatever they want to do. One day I'll get my pleco pair to breed again. Male keeps fanning then expelling white eggs, no fry. Only got fry once, last October, one survivor. The endlers are breeding nicely in here. Quarantine tub currently growing out the neon black platies going to the LFS, along with extra ludwigia trimmings, corkscrew val runners, and some bacopa.
  11. StephenP2003
    I didn't know those Magnavores were that strong, but I was always curious why they were so expensive. Have you used the Flipper brand? The big one is like $70. I have the small and medium ones, curious how they compare. They certainly aren't as powerful.
  12. StephenP2003
    For me, it's either move things around and propagate... or set up a new tank. Gotta go with the former until another space in my house is cleared out.
  13. StephenP2003
    Maybe that's what I heard, rather than reusing it for a new batch of egg hatching.
  14. StephenP2003
    I could've sworn Cory mentioned on a livestream that you reuse the brine water. I might've misheard.
  15. StephenP2003
    What's a good food for otos? I've been feeding them repashy super green (not soilent green, don't know the full differences). I also have the hikari algae wafers that I put in a lot of tanks.
  16. StephenP2003
    I always rinse. Now my practice of rinsing has been validated by Dean. But that yummy brine poop water is safe to reuse for a hatching?
  17. StephenP2003
    My livebearers no longer go nuts for food because I feed the fry in there so much. But they seem to react the same for every food type.
  18. StephenP2003
    I was hoping that would work in my 40 breeder, but man it's getting pretty crazy. I've added breeding platys recently and they seem to be a big fan of eating babies, so hoping that sort of helps the self-management.
  19. StephenP2003
    I've had the best results -- in terms of circulating all the eggs -- by jamming some tubing up the spout and running air through there, in addition to air through the rigid tubing at the top. Otherwise I get eggs settling in the corners, even if I lengthen the rigid tubing. It looks like you use a much higher density than I do (I add 1-2 tsp per 2 liters) so YMMV.
  20. StephenP2003
    I got em too. I consider it a sign of nutritious substrate, just like finding earthworms in a flowerbed.
  21. StephenP2003
    It happens. I've heard it can be caused by diet, bad genes, and/or a plethora other things -- particularly if you're seeing a lot of them. I've had to "cull" one in the past couple months, but I'm watching it grow up happily in my son's tank rather than disposing. If you google "guppy bent spine" you get unpleasant results because the internet thinks any bent fish is fish TB.
  22. StephenP2003
    Or do I have some other problem? It's the only plant with this problem and happening in two different tanks. Can't tell if it's being eaten by the snails or it is deficient in potassium. But considering I dose potassium by itself, seems unlikely.
  23. StephenP2003
    I tend to keep my tanks well stocked. I have one that approaches 40ppm a week depending on what I feed. I pretty much never have less than 10ppm in any given tank, except my betta tank, so I don't dose nitrogen. I add potassium, iron, and trace minerals. I add easy green to my betta tank. I've never had a tank go higher than 50 so I don't know how it would affect the fish, but the fish seem to act the same at 50ppm vs 20ppm vs 5ppm.
  24. StephenP2003
    What if you passively or actively cooled the water as it passed through the python? I'm thinking a big fat radiator like the ones used in elaborate water-cooling setups for gaming computers. Or some other radiator... just that the PC ones are already made to accept fittings of various sizes and have streamlined designs. A slow-ish flow through one of these could be all that's needed to get the temperature low enough passively; otherwise, adding some cheap high CFM static pressure fans would almost certainly do the job.
  25. StephenP2003
    Speaking of salt, if some dummy added eggs into water and ran airstone for 24 hours before realizing he forgot to add salt, should said dummy dispose of those eggs?
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