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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    it's pretty awesome. I dig it.
  2. nabokovfan87
    soak the tube in really hot water for a minute or so, then you should be able to slide it on and clamp it. It looks like it'll fit alright.
  3. nabokovfan87
    How much food is a topic all by itself.... I can link some videos from zenzo for that topic because he really has some good discussion on techniques for that. That being said, I hope I can help when it comes to how and trying to really feed certain levels of the water. Ultimately, it's down to feeding the right food to the right section. I don't think it's ever as simple as buying a food that says "semi-floating" and then half of it is at the top and half sinks and you're done. I tend to get all my foods out, pull portions or set them out, then try to feed. Any time I feed fish on the top, I feed one section, then another side of the tank. Just trying to spread that floating style food out enough. Then I will take something that sinks and go to the open sections of the tank (sand areas for instance) and feed bottom dwellers. I want to feed it in an area where the filter won't suck up the food, or turn the filter off, but where when the filter is running it can push that food around. Mid water feeders, you might have to feed the top, then stick something to the glass or feed a tab to the bottom where they can go and pick at it. There's all kinds of things to feed and having a mix of shapes and foods helps. Drop in a pipette of live food in a few spots in the tank, then a wafer. Then feed a little bit more of the live food if they've gone to town on it. (don't feed too much that you crash the tank) I use a feeding tube and feeding dishes for shrimp just to make sure they get that food. You definitely can and it's generally fine. I tend to feed every morning, once a day, and then whenever I feel like it feed in the afternoon and sit and watch the tank. Let's say you feed 10 or so times a week. Once every day, that's 7, with 3-4 days you feed at night. Should be plenty. The smaller the fish, the better it is to feed smaller meals more often.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Looks like some fin rot going on. You'd want to use something like kanaplex and aquarium salt. The black one also seems to have some sort of sunken belly, this seems like it would also indicate that paracleanse is a good one to treat with as well. Minimum 3-4 treatments to thoroughly treat for internal parasites.
  5. nabokovfan87
    It's fully adjustable. You can dial the flow down to fit what you need. Be sure to check out the tidal mod thread in my signature.
  6. nabokovfan87
    You oto, she looks good! She's just grazing, yeah. They will move around like that when they see shadows too, so standing there recording and seeing her move around is normal. That's good. The shrimp activity, her getting touched on the body or something, could spook her and explain some of the movement you were seeing. If the shrimp were breeding or swimming around, sometimes the oto will even shoal with them and just cruise around following things in the water. They are a cool fish. As long as the girls aren't a weird color (pink is good , red is stressed) and she's eating, you're doing well. 🙂
  7. nabokovfan87
    She's "nano fish sized" if you get a big enough tank. 😉 Water Testing Results AFTER the water change: GH: 14 deg (was 16 deg) KH: 5 deg (was 5 deg) Tap Water Testing Results: GH: 5 deg KH: 4 deg
  8. nabokovfan87
    Corydoras do just fine with salt. I can send you research studies if you would like that verification. 1 TBSP per 2G is the dose I use. 1 TBSP per 5G is the recommended dose for sensitive fish and shrimp.
  9. nabokovfan87
    KH is definitely on the lower side (ph for me is about 7 at that KH). So that's good! I would look into something like equilibrium to give the shrimp a little GH if you go down that route. Not much, but just a little bit. definitely. Whatever you get, make sure you get some calibration solution. I think they need to be calibrated each time you test (or just about).
  10. nabokovfan87
    Yep! I highly recommend the GH/KH test kit. I have that same... is it 7 or is it 7.6 weirdness on so many PH tests. I tend to use the low range one and ignore the high one because of that issue. Maybe that helps!
  11. nabokovfan87
    I wouldn't expect it to automatically crash the tank if you have robust filtration and a good cycle with strong bacteria in the tank. Whenever you add meds, add in the air stone, which also helps out get oxygenation to the fish and that strong bacteria. Test daily, or twice daily for ammonia-nitrite-nitrate if you can at this time. If you run into ammonia or nitrite, the best thing would be to do a water change followed by prime and a bacterial starter like seachem stability or fritz zyme 7. At that point, tag me, let's review filtration and go from there. Test for everything you can as well and let us know water parameters. If one of the mods can, please move this one to disease section for us. 🙂 Do you have aquarium salt on hand?
  12. nabokovfan87
    In my experience some lines of amano shrimp can be sensitive to higher PH. It may or may not be related, but something to test for (high end for me is 7.6 and my amano showed stress). They won't usually go on the banquet blocks or much of anything when they are pretty happy. I can see them grabbing a betta pellet or two and running off to eat it in a darker place of the tank. I wouldn't adjust temp, just be aware of how that affects oxygenation. The added airstone in the tank helps and you can just mess with the flow as you deem ok for the betta. Yep! A lot of time they will use the ramp on the HoB as their own personal mountain spring. 😂
  13. nabokovfan87
    @ktk4beees once you get to 50 posts, you should have the buy/sell/trade section open up on the forums and you can post it as a free fish to try to rehome it as well. Check on the co-op website for a local partner store and maybe that's the best way you can find a good place to rehome it to. Unfortunately, every store knows that common plecos are a bit too.... common for their own good.
  14. nabokovfan87
    Grace the shark being her feisty self. She's got some scuffs in this photo around her eye and by her dorsal, but it's normal. She's fine! She gets those abrasions from rubbing into things and has a lot more room these days. 🙂 But, Love the photo because she's so hard to get a good sharp focus on! Most of the time this is what you get. She is definitely reminiscent of her name and such a graceful moving fish... every morning I just sit and watch her do her thing. She is a bit magical. Fist survivor.... Second survivor (almost to the day, year later. My pandas, Mom and her kid First time I raised the fry by myself... 3 generations. The middle or right one is the first survivor above. Loving the moss and it was nearly looking perfect for me! I really just enjoy watching the shrimp do their thing in a wall or carpet of moss. It's one of the most calming and relaxing moments for me. Finally getting one of my favorite plants to grow after months of trying.
  15. nabokovfan87
    it's very very common for this to happen when first adding shrimp to a tank. With amano shrimp specifically there are reasons for why they in particular tend to escape. All shrimp will go a bit crazy when parameters aren't ideal, but amano shrimp really do think they are semi-aquatic sometimes. 1. A betta typically is recommended to have a pretty high temperature. This does two things, it makes the shrimp pretty uncomfortable, depending what your temp is, but it also leads towards lower oxygenation in your water. Adding an air stone, fine bubbles, would give you some added oxygenation and shouldn't upset the betta too much as well. 2. Amano shrimp come from rivers and streams, which tend to have a good amount of circulation, while bettas come from a very different environment. It doesn't mean they can't be compatible, but it's just a note that they want slightly different things. 3. Most shrimp like to have wood and rocks to graze on. Wood works really well. A good piece of mopani can also act like a rest for the betta as well! It's definitely not a risk. It's moreso a balance of getting things right for the amano shrimp and keeping the betta happy. Any sign of stress and the amano will want out. You can keep the waterline a little lower during the first few weeks and see if that helps or use a net/lid on top of the tank for the first couple weeks. After the shrimp is acclimated and used to the tank, then you shouldn't have too many issues unless your water parameters run into an issue. Slow acclimation or drip acclimation is best for all shrimp and snails in any situation. Start there.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I'm sorry for your loss. As a sidenote, sometimes fish "chew" food by spitting it in and out. A lot of times I have certain foods that are just too dense and too hard for them to chew and that causes them to ignore the food when it's first dropped in. I would recommend using smaller food when you can, or using flakes which can be a little easier to chew. Another idea is to try to soak foods. You have a ton of food in hand, so I don't want to add another to the list, but for a betta, this might be a good one to look into in future. It's not a hard/dense food at all and from what I can tell on the label, pretty good (and affordable). https://www.aqueon.com/products/food/nutrinsect-betta-pellets
  17. nabokovfan87
    https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/boraras-urophthalmoides/?sfw=pass1701033660 I think they all do well. These ones are a bit more unique/rare and I would choose those. My second choice would be the brigittae
  18. nabokovfan87
    They sort of roll their eye. Definitely looks funny the first few times you see it! @Natalie is newbe sure to check out the panda corydoras appreciation society thread!
  19. nabokovfan87
    Because is was a soak and not per the directions on the box, yeah.... I would do a full treatment and this would be your first one. Prazipro being similar to paracleanse. The good thing is it will be in his zone of feeding and he can eat it when whenever he feels comfortable to. It'll stay in the water for 48ish hours sometimes.
  20. nabokovfan87
    If you can, a video would help us see if the shrimp are stressed or if they are showing breeding behavior (or just hungry). As for the oto, yeah, that's an interesting one. GH seems a little high, but might be ok. Both the shrimp and the oto would do well with a piece of wood in there to graze off.
  21. nabokovfan87
    The first thing I noticed is that you have an inert substrate, but you also have a very thin layer for that substrate. Val, PSO, and other plants like that need space for the root systems. It also helps when adding root tabs to have a little bit of height on the substrate (4-6 inches is typical, 3-4 inches as a good minimum). My gut tells me that there's just not enough on the root section for the val to utilize. PSO does a bit better because it's a stem plant as oppose to a rosette plant. This just means they feed in slightly different methods. Be careful with this and potentially have a tap installed so you can get water prior to the softener. The reason being is that some softener systems release salt into the water which could harm the fish and plants. ....... The only other note I would have is to keep the PSO contained. It is a nutrient hog and it grows really fast. It might be growing so fast that plants like val struggle to get what they need. It could be an instance of root feeding the val as your main method to make sure it gets nutrients. It should do well with that type of feeding and has for me in the past. Just make sure there's enough room for the plant (vertically, at least 3-4 inches of substrate if you can). Considering all the other plants are growing, I would use indicators on those plants to determine what's really going on here. If the crypts and PSO are showing new growth, take some good photos of that growth and let's see what we can see. The plants in general seem pale, but it could just be lighting.
  22. nabokovfan87
    First question I had looking at the tank photos is what is your filtration and how is it setup? Very high ammonia, so you should do an immediate 80-90% water change and test daily for ammonia. You can use dechlorinator once every 24 hours. Double dose it for this instance, perfectly safe to do so. Following that, you'd want to do a max 50% water change daily until the ammonia and nitrite is no longer an issue. As a general rule, if you do a water change and "something went wrong" with an additive, the guidelines are to add some carbon and do a big water change.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Alright, you get the campfire going, I'll go find a few hundred feet of christmas lights. 🙂 Reminds me of a road that Jimmy drove by on one of his streams up in Washington. Definitely a place you go for sunrise/sunset walks.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I add iron... not sure what really would be in their mix in terms of chemical compositions to bind the phosphate. Seachem has the little phosguard bags too, marineland has some stuff too. Interesting question. A few of the plants are pretty unhappy with me and we'll see how things go. I may end up just turning the light on, but I did question the phosphate pads as contributing to the issues. My gut tells me it's due to light or nutrients, but it's that battle of getting the plants to do one thing and the algae to stop being crazy. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iron(III)_oxide-hydroxide Iron(III) oxide-hydroxide or ferric oxyhydroxide[2] is the chemical compound of iron, oxygen, and hydrogen with formula FeO(OH). It seems perfectly safe to use! I add iron, it's just iron. Shrimp should be ok with it as long as it's not a huge dump of metal.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Active infection, so don't use the soak method for this! Follow the directions on the package. Cory did a recent video explaining and clarifying methods for this. Essentially, not enough meds can do more harm than good and cause the things to become resistant to meds over time. (it's not that situation at all) Not having a strong enough dose can also just not do anything. I would consider doing the above treatment for ~4 weeks (treat, rest for 2 weeks, treat again). The main thing is really, really trying to get spike to eat and fingers crossed we can figure it out. Try some repashy too if you haven't! I would think the soilent green would be a good one or bottom scratcher. Both have some bugs in their mix.
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