nabokovfan87

Should be the right one. Yes.

Mine never had any issues. He was with some Julii corydoras. Every fish has their own personality, so fingers crossed for that situation. I'm sorry about Punk, is there anything in the water besides salt? Have you tried any bacterial meds apart from the flakes?

I really feel like I should boil some cones or something tonight. I did a good size water change today and just cleaned the main feeding area. I tried to be extra careful adding water back in with the delicate baby shrimp in there. Almost busted out the ladder and dripped some water back in, but it's colder and I wanted to just do it manually, scoop by scoop, and get the tank up to temp. I messed with the air and try to adjust and balance that aspect. I added some heaping scoops of the GH buffer to cover that and hoping I have the dose dialed in. Testing tomorrow to verify. I dissolved it prior to adding the tank and in trying to be a lot better about the method to reduce stress on the shrimp. So far the total is 8 females, 1 male. 1 male and 1 female had no molt issues showing while 7 females did have molt issues. I could be missing one, but I believe that's where things are at. The last one I found was in the feeding dish the day before yesterday and it was a younger female, no sort of molt issues. I'm leaning towards food as the result of that one or she did molt fine, but still was overstressed. It's a big two weeks for the tank.

How was balancing? I have one pump with the collar on one tap and the ziss stone on the other and it's been a bit of a challenge. I had to open up the ziss to be able to not have the pump angry at me with the gang valve. I think that helped a lot. I was hoping that having everything on collars would make it a breeze again, similar to having everything on airstones.

Must be the guppy grass then! It sorta looked like moss. 🙂

I scoop mine up with a 5-8" fine mesh net.

I hope not broken or anything! Hoping for a speedy recovery.

That moss in the shrimp tank looks pretty perfect in the vid. Very cool thing you did @Guppysnail! as always. The killis look great! That one in the center of the photo looks so much like a rainbow version of a Greenland shark. It has a red line right where the doodle mouth would be. Can't unsee. 😂

If you're limited on time, I think episode one speaks volumes. It's a busy month, but it's also a very quick show and you can probably knock it out in ~2 nights or something. It's well done and it is one that I think is one of the better ones made of recent. I'll add more thoughts as I get through the other episodes, but for episode one... here we go! Ep 1: Ep 2: Ep 3: Ep 4: Overall, I really do enjoy this look into the chimp culture and how things work. It was really well done. I was glad when I stumbled upon it and I was really glad to get a chance to revisit it with fresh eyes again. It's a "long movie" of sorts, but it's just enjoyable and broken into manageable chunks. Even if you don't want to watch the whole series, I think the first episode is really enlightening and it's good to be able to share that! Love the pick, looking forward to more like it.

No it wouldn't be the issue. It's a benefit. Sometimes people have "dirty power" and that can absolutely wreak havoc on some electronics. They sell or make whole home power conditioners and portable units to rule that out. In a lab setting, that's why you use the expensive power supplies and what not to make sure the signal of the power isn't an issue. https://www.tesengineering.com/electrical-engineering-what-is-dirty-power/

Yep, absolutely. It helps the fish to have less stress when using meds (those 2-3 reasons mentioned above). You can see corys vid with the 800 gallon, he uses salt + ich-x all the time. Anything external salt with the meds is often the route to go. That's progression of the fin rot. Yeah. To be expected. You can see it progressing towards the body here. @Odd Duck@ @Colu any idea in the last photo what the coloration on the gills leans towards? @yve what meds do you have on hand? If possible, get some ich-x as well when you go to the store or from the coop.

Maybe. It's something you tend to see with water parameter things going on, maybe just verify ammonia / nitrite didn't spike on you. Always good!

Looks like a feisty boy! Is that redness on the cheek/gill plate any sort of thing or just normal?

That's huge! Nice work.

The weight is really down to the water weight and being a static load.

There's two ways to view this..... Maybe three. 1. The shrimp eat things like that, but the video shows them in the water column, not really shrimp friendly food! 2. The colony of whatever it is can crash and spike ammonia and nitrates which is very unhealthy for a shrimp colony 3. Adding something like white clouds or nano rasboras would eat that (hopefully) and then go ahead and help to control the population. That gives you the ability to keep micro crustaceans in check and that can ensure nothing is taking away food from the shrimp. Essentially, this can happen a lot when you're not doing enough cleaning on a tank. As mentioned in #2 it is a concern from some perspectives and shrimp keepers. @modified lungdo you know what this little critter might be?

Yep! You can use a good stiff brush like a potato brush to clean it. That will get off things like BBA and other stuff on the wood surface. Over time it should be acclimated to life under water and all of that would stop. Just give the fish time and watch behavior. You'd leave it in there for 7-14 days and it's essentially giving the fish electrolytes and the other benefits we mentioned. Co-op has some articles and videos on using salt, but please feel free to ask questions here as well, all valid concerns! If you see the issues progress, then you want to go ahead and react with medications and potentially (not always) remove the salt. I believe you're running salt + kanaplex right now. So after one week of the kanaplex, you'd do a water change of ~50% and then give the fish 24 hours and start over with the meds (recommendation on the bottle is 2 treatments back to back if the fish is not showing stress). At that point you'd only dose in salt for the water you removed.

That would point towards a power conditioning issue perhaps. Are you using a surge protector or anything? Yes. Others have reported this issue as well.

If you haven't, I would get in touch with coop support. Electronics whine isn't usually a good noise on a heater.

I use a fine edge wood saw. Gotta do what you gotta do! Definitely deburr your cuts though!

There's a few things going on. It's hard to see detail in the first 3 photos. In the last photo, on the tail it looks like what would be signs of fin rot on the tail. the gills are a little reddened which isn't good for corydoras. Can you please share full water parameters including temperature? If possible, try to get more photos of the fuzz or white stuff you see on the body of the fish. I only see the oddness in the tail on the fish, but not any white stuff on the body of the fish. If you have little spots all over the fish it could be ich. Treatment for that would be ich-x and salt. (co-op has a video on ich as well as a guide on how to treat it when cory encontered it in the 800G. If you have fungal issues, the treatment would be ich-x and salt, coincidentally. There is also a product called jungle fizz tabs which work for antifungal as well. For the fin rot in question, you would want to use a product like maracyn 2 or kanaplex as well as aquarium salt. Salt may cause some issues with your plants, so if you have QT the best thing to do would be to remove the fish to a QT system. If you don't then consider moving the plants to a bucket for a week or two. Salt dose with corydoras is going to be 1 tbsp per 2 gallons and after about 3-4 weeks they get a little uncomfortable with the salt dose. It should help with the gill redness as well as help with any external issues. Note, whenever you add salt or meds, add air. For corydoras especially you want to do this to make sure that they have good oxygenation. This looks a bit like extra slime coat being produced, but it's very difficult to see. If it's bacterial the kanaplex would help with that treatment. If you don't see improvement, after the kanaplex for the fin rot (usually 2 weeks of treatment) you can give the fish a break and then follow up with something like maracyn. fungal infection would present like a ball of cotton or appear like the end of a q-tip on the body of the fish. Note, because you have shrimp in there, it's best to move the fish out of this tank for treatment. Shrimp can handle 1 tbsp per 5G salt dose, but they will struggle with higher doses.

Definitely not the right tool! 😂 From the PC modding side of things this helps a lot to clean up the cuts: Inner Outer Reamer Manual Pipe Reamer PVC Copper Tube PETG Acrylic Tubing Chamfer Tool Pipe Deburring Chamfering Tool https://a.co/d/1438AcH The normal cutting tool would be something like: DURATECH Mini Tubing Cutter 1/8"-3/4"(3-19MM), Copper, Aluminum, Brass And Plastic Tubing Compact Cutter, With Replacement Wheel https://a.co/d/bJEvebu There's a few models and kits and all that. I purely post this for the sake of if someone wants to clean things up or cut the parts with less of a risk of injury! By all means, use what you got.

Use an active substrate, wood and botanicals, as well as a product like seachem acid buffer. There is also peat moss balls that you can use in filtration.

The kit comes with pieces to increase the height. I can measure what you need to buy I don't have calipers for a tight tolerance design measurement. Are you saying you want to replace the kit tube with PVC or? The kit also has two pieces that are adjustable height and slide to give you that adjustment.

If you want to remove the snails, probably safer that way given the issues. If you do see one on the glass or something you can just smoosh it.