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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Hit up The Secret: Dare to Dream that was just added. Definitely more positive.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Yeah.... The "fun times" are when you have to beg the adults to move the car..... Or else. I can try to hit the net, but can't promise what the other kids do. 😂 Pretty sure she did. It happened like 15 minutes after my mom getting home from some 10-12 hour shift. She definitely needed some sleep. Didn't hurt sitting there. Definitely broken.
  3. nabokovfan87
    😂 But right now I have some half dead and totally dead ZZ plants! (That's on my plant table thinkamajig)
  4. nabokovfan87
    Hey all, A genuine question. What is the last movie you watched that changed your life? I don't want to add too much subtext here or answer what that meaning to the question is for anyone. I will have to ponder it for myself and think on it as well. Please feel free to share. If you wish to share why as well, that is entirely welcome. Many thanks.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Anything that deteriorates uses the oxygen. I believe that may foul the situation over time. Interesting. I appreciate that, meaning I feel the gravity of that statement. It's one of those things where I really do see that neocarodina shrimp seriously can be difficult and it's a pretty fine line at times between success and struggling with a minor shift. Related.... And I flash back to a discussion I had where I was told by another hobbyist that I cannot care for my own shrimp because I recommended avoiding a small setup (under 15G) for a colony. It was a tough day and the comments stuck with me for far longer than they should've. Since then, I've seen a 75G shrimp tank with 1000+ shrimp. Hundreds. It was hard to put the activity of that colony into words and I can only now fully appreciate the effort it takes for that group of shrimp to thrive long term. Interesting. Yeah, plants are a huge learning curve and have been. The focus for me the past 2 years or so. Maybe the surface plants cut all gas exchange and blocked out the lights as well. Tough to say. I do get what you mean though about the height difference and issues that may cause as well. Sometimes it's a puzzle! It's been fun to follow along and to see a successful journey with it. I genuinely don't think I could pull it off, but one day, maybe...
  6. nabokovfan87
    It almost looks like fungus growing on something. Hm. Snap some more pictures of you can. If the hydra hasn't eaten algae yet it will be non-green at first. Any recent changes, all equipment working and cleaned?
  7. nabokovfan87
    If you were to redo things, add a plant or change the size of the jar or shape, etc... is there anything you'd change with what you know now?
  8. nabokovfan87

    Fish tb

    nabokovfan87 replied to Cmullins's topic in Diseases

    Was it ich?
  9. nabokovfan87
    You can't know what "normal pH" is without an off gas test. What the fish will tolerate isn't the same as what the pH would be if the tank didn't have a KH crash.... If there is one happening, causing stress on the fish. 1. Why you need to do water changes or replenish KH. (One of many reasons.) 2. When you have any issues, step one. Test.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Found this channel / vid. Lots of good details.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Note to self.... Every single time you do it, you're gonna forget and realize it immediately and quickly, but the seltzer bottle is literally like opening a volcano and will get everywhere.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Literally reading this right now. 🙂 As a sidenote, I didn't realize how many bulb plants there really are!
  13. nabokovfan87
    I would put the eco complete as the base, largest size bits on the bottom, and then top it with stratum or something like controsoil. My current setup has the heavier (but small size) substrate on the top and it works pretty well. You'd want about 4" in the front with 6" in the back of your substrate. Essentially, get your feet wet with stems and then decide if/when you go into the co2 side of things. some good stems to try first would be: -Pearlweed -Staurogyne Repens -Moneywort -Bacopa Caroliniana -Pogostemon Erectus -Ammannia Gracilis (for some color) Here's a fun one on one of the above stems.
  14. nabokovfan87
    When you're treating an active infection, follow the directions on the box! It's explained in the most recent video from the co-op about this as well.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Hello hello, Thanks to the wonderful, kind efforts of @Chick-In-Of-TheSea I have some new plants!!!! 😍 Like much of the plants out there, there are some I have only researched and never had hands on. These ones are a bulb type, aponogeton ulvaceus species. They came in looking pretty good and of course I'm excited for the new plant-venture. A few questions though and just wanted to confirm everything. 1. The bulb is above the substrate when planted and the roots go down. I should or should not slightly submerge the bulb to help it root a little bit? (let's say 25% of the bulb covered?) 2. Some of the leaves might be ok. I don't know how much melt to expect? Previously I've heard it will fully melt back, then regrow once it's acclimated. 3. Some plants you want to trim the emersed leaves to encourage growth, I don't think these are ones that you would as it should be submerged growth. I was reading online, but google was giving me results for terrestrial bulb plants, that if you can save a leaf or keep a leaf, it's a good idea because it will help it to recover. So.... I definitely should try to recover all the leaves, right? 4. If anyone has info or a guide on how, propagating these out? I've heard some are very difficult, others might be easier. I appreciate all of the guidance. Thank you!
  16. nabokovfan87
    You're a special case! LOL I can only imagine what "normal" is for some of the high tech tanks. There is also tanks that have breeding parameters and so it's lower for that reason.
  17. nabokovfan87
    pH being low is indicative of excessive waste. Unless you're running blackwater, botanicals, or a ton of wood, the PH should be 6.8 or so. Active substrate will tend to buffer down things, but stabilize once it's charged in that 6.8 range. First thing I would do is dose in prime, add air, and give yourself some time to test the KH of the tank as well as your source water. Clean the filtration and make sure that is working properly. Once you have confirmation where things are the likely next step would be water changes, adjust filtration, adjust KH, and/or adjust air. Fish at the surface could be temperature too, affecting oxygenation. Let's check everything and see what parameters should be and triple check everything. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh
  18. nabokovfan87
    😂 Well you definitely win the more fun story. I just felt like an idiot for a bit. Not even a 'whoops", but mad I had this crack eat the wheel on my skates and whatever happened happened. My mom worked late that night, nurse, and so she got home and went to bed. My grandma was over with us and I can inside and sat in the chair trying really hard not to move for a few hours. When my mom woke up she talked to my grandma and was pretty frustrated she didn't get woken up, but it is what it is. I still remember that day and some of those moments in the hospital like yesterday. Pretty sure I just played in shoes after that. ....and it wasn't even the worst injury from street hockey. (I'm a pretty awesome goalie and my shins have the dents to prove it.) I learned, I failed really, really hard at life because I could not mentally or physically understand how to eat a taco left handed. Just couldn't do it. 😂 I commend you all for being able to have fish tanks with that. I could do it now, back then.... Nah. Water changes get to wait, unless we bust out the python.
  19. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for your loss. 😔
  20. nabokovfan87
    @Steele I apologize for the tangent about water mixing! I know you're trying to do your best for the fish and I can't confirm if it's causing the deaths you're experiencing. I would keep an eye out like @Guppysnail mentioned for aggression and mating behavior. Hopefully some of the other rainbow keepers can chime in here as well with any related advice and experiences too!
  21. nabokovfan87
    I wouldn't do the step of adding the buffer and shaking it. One you let it sit, things will stratify and that's partially what you're trying to avoid. Meaning.... Just add in the buffer whenever you aerate the water for your water change. After about an hour everything would be mixed, dissolved, and oxygenated. I've seen reports that ~30 minutes is enough if you really are pressed for time. A note from the salty side of things... much longer time to dissolve and mix, but it is specified on each brand of salt. Once the desired salinity level is reached you should let the water continue to mix and aerate for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer. Some salt mixes are best used within 3-4 hours of mixing (Red Sea Coral Pro) while others should mix for 24-48 hours before use (95% of other salt mix brands).
  22. nabokovfan87
    @PotatoFish I can't say for sure, but I think the puffer is missing it's tail? There might be fin rot going on there. That's awesome. I love the attention to detail to shift things around for the fish to explore. 🙂
  23. nabokovfan87
    @Colu Here's the vid. I noticed some listing to the side at the 3:45 mark or so and @Chick-In-Of-TheSea mentioned also seeing it at the 2:43 mark. I understand, I agree. I just really don't know what else to do as far as reducing the stress on Spike. Watching the feeding, the tetras are immensely active and he's just sort of staring at them with the, "you done yet"? I don't think rams are timid at all, and being able to cut way back on the food would help the bacteria in the tank as well. I'm not sure when the tetras are safe to move... but I think removing them may help in some way, that's all.
  24. nabokovfan87
    A lot of times, you'll see people who breed and keep shrimp say you need to drip water back in. You don't. A lot of the time issues come when water has been sitting and used or their is older mindsets where they say you have to use "aged water". For some lines of shrimp, dripping the water back in slowly is absolutely helpful. Basically, you want stable water. Water in = water out, reducing all the shock and stress as much as possible. That's all it is.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Just combine these two. 2 hours is plenty to dissolve the minerals and give the water time to "wake up".
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