nabokovfan87

Sounds about right... Same way wolverine stops healing. Eventually he just can't anymore.

Good question. I haven't heard of any that can't. But just keep in mind that there is "too cold" for some fish.

They have a 50w one

1. What was the first fish you ever kept in some sort of an aquarium? 2. What tank are you most proud of and why? 3. How did you get here, specifically to these forums? 4. What is something you think you do to make the hobby easier for yourself that others can use? 5. What is something you specifically wish for guidance with in the hobby? 6. What fish do you miss most? 7. How often do you change water? Is this the same for all of your tanks? 8. What is better, one big tank or a rack of 20Gs, why? 9. When was the last time you spent 30 minutes staring at a tank? 10. What is your favorite food to feed your tanks?

I have a few pieces of mopani I keep for tannins and just because I really like mopani... You don't need to save the water at all. If you have a tank for it, toss it in, it will be fine and do just as well as cooking the wood so to speak. If you can a concentrate, this is like anything else in cooking, get botanicals and cook those botanicals to get a liquid, reduce that down to a concentrate and you're off. You don't need to do this, and you can simply control the amount of tannins by dosing in rooibos tea (organic) or by dosing in botanicals. If you truly want to go blackwater, then go for it! You're not going to insanely drop PH, but you will lower it slightly. Depending on what is in the tank matters more than PH to me. If you enjoy mopani, enjoy tannins, get a few pieces and just let it do it's thing. You'll get enough in there week to week and be very happy with the look.

That blue is ridiculous. Step 1.... they come from SCOTLAND. Step 2. find a tub. If they make it, you'll have a tank. I know there's an answer in here somewhere that involves a shark. I had a question / idea for a topic and it was one of those that I never posted. This article... the difference between the nurse shark and the grey nurse shark is what led me here. I'll say it again.... go watch the sharkwater movies. Especially #2 on amazon prime (free if you have prime). In terms of our hobby... it's a breathtaking story.

water changes with fry.... the undiscussed youtube creator content topic. Props for those photos. IDK what camera you were using, but lighting, contrast, THOSE COLORS. makes me want to hatch out some brine. If you can, please head over here and help us out.

I was talking about the entire breeder box itself. Should be able to remove it from the clip and then move it to a tub for an hour or so?

Honestly, looks fine. I would use salt right now, but that's just how I am in general. To keep the "cut clean" that is basically what I would do to reduce the risk of secondary issues. level 2 I think is 1/3 cup per 10g. Monitor it, keep an eye out day to day and then just make sure you have some erythromycin in case you need it. For barbs and semi-aggressive tanks this stuff happens and that's normal to have on hand.

Maybe a small tupperware to hold water and then just move the box into that during WCs.

That is awesome!!! What kind are they?

Let it run it's life. Replace it with the ACO version. Same price as a guard for most heaters. The one I'd recommend is the E-Series from fluval, but for some ridiculous reason no one except EU stocks it. As far as what to look for, you definitely need some space for flow, holes for flow as well. So you want something that has a lot of grooves and openings. Without dimensions, it's difficult to specify which one. As mentioned, etsy is a good choice, but just keep in mind design. Let me know if you need anything.

Sure thing. When I had them at 3-4 weeks mine were getting their colors still. At 5-6 they were at least a bit larger, could eat normal foods like repashy, they weren't afraid to be out and active. In my case they also had their colors and could camouflage with the substrate. size is 1/4" vs. 1/2" for most of the fish. 3 weeks: 5-6 weeks: Breeder box 5 weeks: Raised in tank, not in breeder box 6 weeks.

https://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/California-reaches-deal-to-shut-down-11248723.php It's been shut down.

January. You missed it by a few days 😞 What size tub would you need? If it helps, get a tub/tote for now.

Nitrite happens really quickly compared to nitrates. I've used that product probably 10x, or similar ones other times, and it's been beneficial in my experience. Some filters just fight bacteria and some surfaces aren't made for bacteria to colonize easily. Even some sponge, used in aquarium filters, is so smooth and plastic feeling that I don't like to use it. I understand the rush to want instant results. Depending on how the filter is setup, the amount of bioload on the tank, that really is where you determine if the tank cycles easily or not, apart from whatever is added to buffer the cycle. Say you cycle the tank with a small pinch and then add fish that have 5x the bioload, you'd basically crash the cycle while the tank appears to try to catch up.

both! 🙂 Welcome to the forums.

I generally prefer to keep moss with my corydoras above all other plants. they do like to graze on things, use it for eggs, and it fits with how they like to lay. It's a good choice! They will be fine with it. As for the mesh.... if it is plastic, should be fine. If it is stainless, I have had some wounds from similar mesh and do recommend you remove it and attach it. I tried burying it in the sand, didn't work, but there should be thread or something you can untie (or cut the moss itself) and glue it to the hardscape. Welcome to the forums!

Needless to say, the initial post here was a lot of thoughts and a lot of stress! I feel bad for you that all of these things have led to a severely, troubled, jumbled mess. Welcome to the forums, and I hope we are able to help out. Firstly, understand that a lot of the ACO advice is based on things Cory has personally done for 10+ years in the hobby. These aren't recommendations based on labels, but experience. As someone who had to write manuals for a living, I can tell you the information in them is important. Some of it is copy/paste and information that gets repeated leads to an over abundance of information and serious overload when it comes to what is the correct method. I myself was confused at the exact same ingredients, but difference in directions between the API meds and the Fritz versions. Same active ingredients, but a different set of steps. Dechlorinators, meds, and bottled bacteria all really shouldn't be used in conjunction. The goal is to setup the tank, get it going, then to bring in fish and to use meds once the tank is established. If you're concerned with dechlorinators causing issues with dosing in anything, the common advice is to wait 24-48 hours and then dose in whatever you need to. To the question in the title of the thread.... The reason why it's not more common is simply because seachem stability and API are in just about every single big box store across the country. Other brands are newer, have fancy new labels and terms, but might be exactly what we've been using for decades. There isn't really a legitimate reason to switch. Personally, I get what is on sale, I get what makes sense to get at the time, or what I have used before and has worked.

If you can see through it, you can swim through it! Pretty sure that is from a movie or something. Glad you got him out. I would've use something to try to ease the fins back into place. Difficult situation, keep an eye on the little guy. Let us know how he does.

There's a lot going on here. What do you mean that stability didn't work? Was it expired, failed, or did it simply not do what you expected? I also generally only use food to cycle tanks. Mostly that and time is what it takes. I've never heard of using plants to cycle a tank, but I do understand when people say that "cycling a planted tank is different than a fish only tank". Most of that is generally just down to time itself. One thing to keep in mind is that shrimp tanks can often have issues with cycle because it's such a low bioload that can quickly, exponentially rise. Something like a few otos or small fish is what I would recommend to have enough bioad to properly season and cycle the tank. Plecos are often used. So are snails. I wouldn't recommend or use snails, but I do know that a lot of people do. I'm just not on team snail!

Thank you @Chick-In-Of-TheSeaoit's definitely a good idea. Just doesn't work specifically better than my big ol hand in the tank diffusing the water. 😂 I will try to track something down and give it a shot. I think I like Mark's Shrimp Tanks method (mixed with yours) or having very small float valves and slowly adding water in using an airline so I can just not deal with the plants going everywhere. Checked on the tank tonight, the Corydoras have revolted and started pulling leaves off of the S.Repens trimmings. Fun stuff. They don't understand I am trying to make their plant hammocks bigger!

PH swings like that usually mean heavy bioload and very heavy organics. Very likely not helping everything. My assumption is that you have a situation where something is dead and that is causing some serious issues. Not irreparable, but concerning and I think measures taken to try to fix things thoroughly are required. I have had decor and rocks not intended for the aquarium cause some pretty extreme reactions. I would take everything live out of the tank, move it to a bucket. Clean the sponge in a sink thoroughly as well as the air stone, airline, filter plastics and make sure that things are clean and everything is functional. Keep everything in a 5G bucket right now, sponge at the base, or in a QT tub. I use a dark towel on the top to provide cover and act as a lid. Until we get the tank sorted out. I would recommend removing fish, filter, and plants. I do have a gut type of feeling the gravel is causing issues. Can't explain it, but it could be some coating and it wasn't rinsed well enough or is contaminated. Second to that, decor hides fish and can easily hide a dead fish or snail. Take the tank to the sink and go through everything. Remove the gravel, keep it in a bucket or dry it completely on a towel. Same thing with any decor. Look through all the little nooks and holes for a fish or snail that got stuck or got damaged. Once you have that done and everything is removed you'd want to get a new sponge that hasn't been used before on anything and clean the tank. Rinse it well more than you think you need to. Make sure it's clean under the rim, the lid, everything. Run the tank bare bottom for right now. This won't harm anything in the tank and you can isolate a lot of issues when it comes to the tank. The filter will have an easier time cleaning, the fish and snails will have an easier time eating, it will be easier to clean. Etc. We do need to figure out what your PH is normally. Weather would explain the PH crash like that. So this means we need to also do an off gas test on the tap water that you're using. What is the water test results immediately after you pour the water from the tap? What are the parameters after 24 hours of aeration (using an air stone)? Definitely need to remove anything that isn't designed for an aquarium right now just to isolate those as issues. I've had it happen trying to put in a shell into an aquarium and it went real nasty.

I use the seachem fluorite black. For a Betta tank you might be able to get some pond style gravel (those black river rocks common for gardens and planters). Anothera Stones for Plants, 3LB Smooth Natural Black River Rocks, Plant Aquarium Gravel Stones for Succulents Bonsai Terrarium Vase Fillers Fish Tank Indoor Outdoor Garden Decor（6-9 mm） https://a.co/d/eFlkR8n

It’s empty btw. 😂 Waiting for a new light… I know! 😂 But you said it's for shrimp. That's why I say that That pup sure loves the snow.