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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    @Colu @Odd Duck The color on the fins indicated above looks like pattern to me. Is that what we're looking at? Any thoughts on the update and symptoms? You can always start with aquarium salt and catappa leaves for most situations. In terms of the above Information, are all of the fish eating do any of them look excessively bloated or have a sunken belly? The salt should help with some of the gill issues you mentioned. My normal dose is 1/3 Cup per 10 Gallons, (1 TBSP per 2 Gallons) The above recommendation is to start with prazipro. If you need help on the directions please let us know.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Pliers?
  3. nabokovfan87
    As long as the angel isn't dragging fins on the bottom, yes. If the angel is dragging, the. Something like a 20H or a plastic tote might be something to use for short term holding. Put everything into buckets or totes and try to keep it wet. Obviously the priority is to keep the filtration media cycled.... 1. Move the fish, wherer the fish are you can either: A. Setup the filter on that holding setup B. Move the media to the bottom of the tank and just add airstones to that holding tank 2. Move all of the hardscape, plants, etc. To bucket or totes. They will be absolutely fine. If you add an air stone it will help to keep the bacteria alive. 3. Scoop out the substrate and clean it if you wish. It is often extremely dirty. 4. Setup the new tank, level the stand, then the tank, etc. 5. Add the substrate and rocks, add the water to the tank to keep things damp. 6. Fill the tank (or plant it if you prefer to plant it with the water low, then fill) 7. Move your filtration to the new tank 8. Let that filter run for at least an hour or so and start to gather debris. Check the tank parameters before adding fish. 9. Keep the stocking light as you can, let the plants take hold and then let the filtration regenerate any lost bacteria. 10. After about 2 weeks or so, you should be safe to start adding fish, but the plants may take up to a month to acclimate. As a sidenote. You're going to love the 75G. It's such an easier tank to work with. I'm excited for you!
  4. nabokovfan87
    I would try a powder food.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Well, maybe a picture is worth 1000 words here. When you look at the tank you have that pot next to the sponge. I don't know if Acara are cave spawners, but potentially that's the draw. Right off the bat that means the left 1/4 of the tank is going to be the territory of choice. Second thing would be the "3 sides" method whereby rams want three sides around them to have that feeling of safety. The only real place that exists is the back left corner behind the sponge. Maybe all you're seeing here is the fish trying to have the preferential zone? Maybe it's a matter of the left side of the tank being a bit more open with exposed substrate as well? I would suggest trying to create a bit of a "lean to" structure with the wood and see if opening up the tank and moving the decor a bit helps with behavior. I can only imagine the fish (especially the tetra) would enjoy some vertical structure there to swim around and through. You could even build that structure over the cave that you have there. Moving it to the right side of the tank, or centered, with the wood over top.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Black or green... Depending on your personal preference. Nice! (And congratulations) 😂 But where is the Bolivian ram?
  7. nabokovfan87
    Looks like 20. It hasn't shifted to any red yet. (30+)
  8. nabokovfan87
    I was watching a random video, "2 tips that will...." basically always make sure you succeed in the hobby. The video was fine, the content was fine, but my entire takeaway from the video was that it was pretty new (just a few years old) and all I kept hearing from the speaker was the statement.... "We've got a video on that" "We've done tons of videos on this topic" "Go check out some of our old videos on this" To be quite blunt and clear, YouTube as a tool makes it seriously difficult to watch older videos. Having things in a playlist actually feeds the algorithm to make it easier to recommend an older video. If you watch a video from a playlist, it is very common for YouTube to recommend that series. However, if I want to watch an "older" video I have to load up the app, go to the channel, find the list of videos, and continuously load and scroll to the bottom. If I'm on the TV, then I have to scroll to the right for a very long time while it goes back in time. When I want to watch the next in the series, every single thing is manual. I have to go back to the feed, find the next one, one by one. I don't know why YouTube can't have a button to just start from the beginning or to pay attention to keywords in titles like "Part 1" and search for the exact same title "part 2" as the recommendation. It might, but not always. As a general rule I think it's been built into search tools for a while now to replace older links with anything newer that is "related". As a creator, it's perfectly fine to feel like you have a video for everything, but as a viewer it's difficult to manually access that content on most devices. But, there is more going on when a viewer asks for content to be remade. It's actually strange when I see some of the responses to requests for content. "Please make a video about...." "Yes, I have one." At this point the viewer is thinking to themself about that old video, how much the content helped them and how amazing and wonderful it was, but it's in 480p with poor sound and there's glare and all sorts of issues. Sometimes it would just be helpful to reference the old stuff, link to it, but try to bring back some of it and share those lessons again. Maybe the advice has changed or maybe you have further details to add to that topic that you didn't before. Maybe you're better now than previously at editing your verbiage and saying things in such a way that it's easier to understand. In philosophy there is entire schools of thought about how our experiences, history, and the journey of life shapes us for the very moment we are in now. Maybe that is the best way to view content on YouTube. It's a snapshot at a very specific moment in time and things adapt over time. I wish sometimes the creator would just appreciate it understand that the new fan they have wants to see more content, wants to experience new content and ask questions, has a passion for learning, and is sincerely asking for certain topic (or specific content) to be revisited. Another thing that makes it easier, puts things in the right order as well, is to just have a playlist where it has old videos. Then you can manually set the order. I understand that not every old video is worth the effort, but if you're trying to boost the views of old content it's a method to get exposure and make it easier on the user to access that content. I can't imagine it wouldn't help viewership and watch time. Just a list of 20, 50, 100, etc. Old videos from when the channel first started.
  9. nabokovfan87
    If you have a breeder box, try to move the male to that setup for ~3-5 days and just reset the tank. He will understand he can't terrorize everyone and that will lead to things calming down a little bit. I am dealing with this in my own situation. 4 females, 2 males. One of the males got attacked to the point where he's missing a bit of his tail now. The other technique is to move the decor around the tank, have floating plants or wood to break lines of sight. Things that can cover a bit of that upper area on the tank.
  10. nabokovfan87
    What else is in the tank in terms of fish? Can you show a photo of the setup for clarity? Is it possible the fish spawned or was attacked? Just be sure to target feed him as a start. You would want to feed the bulk of the tank and then drop some sinking pellets in his territory. If you see other fish then going into your acara's spot, then you would want to try to have hardscape in such a way to give him a place to hide, eat, and lower the stress. This is similar to what @Chick-In-Of-TheSea had to work on for her Bolivian ram setup and eventually the little one finally got the hang of the target feeding and has turned around from the start of the adventure! I will let her speak to it, but I think her ram is a much, much more outgoing fish as a result of all the efforts for individual TLC.
  11. nabokovfan87
    Anything over a 20G tank is quite big for a betta. If you're talking any normal sort of filtration you would stress out the fish to the point of severe damage, fins falling off in some of the worst cases I have witnessed. This may not happen right away, but it's something that could result in months and likely shorten the lifespan of the fish. I don't recommend a betta in that situation. It's much safer and better for the fish to have a tank where you can have that betta fish in optimal surroundings. Here is a great video on setting up a betta tank.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Do you mean with them swimming through it? The substrate is lighter than normal gravel I think and a bit "softer" after it's hydrated. It's a clay product from my knowledge and I would think it is ok with the loaches. I have corydoras on mine, but they don't necessarily bury themselves. The Tahitian (black) sand, you would have to specify which brand / version. Some of them have been removed due to metal content in the natural product. I don't think I've heard of it leeching any ammonia though. If you're taking about moonlight sand, it is one of the extremely fine sands from caribsea and I do not wish it on my worst enemy. It is very easy to get up into the water column and only really has use on air powered setups. It will get into sponge filters and stuff as well due to how easy it is to drift around. Here's the side-by-side if that helps to show you the granular difference. The one on the left is most definitely a fine sand.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Oh no.... I just noticed it because of how anubias grows. It'll grow roots and leaves based on how you have it. Just depends what you want! I don't even know what way is up today so you're fine!
  14. nabokovfan87
    I think this is about the best response / clarification any of us can give. Grab yourself a glass of tea and hit play. I'll comment below for "after the video" thoughts. This is one of my favorite and useful videos that I oft recommend viewing from Cory and the Co-Op and it seems to be apt for this situation. I think one thing to keep in mind is the temperature, resources, and the overall care of fish in Thailand at breeding setups compared to your own personal fish room. If you want to keep them "warmer" to encourage metabolism or other things which will have an impact on the immune system response of the fish, then I think a sensible range is likely near 76 degrees or so. 80 is a bit toasty for a lot of fish. I would also not drop the temp suddenly or anything, but you can likely just unplug the heater and let room temp slowly sink in. During the summer I specifically do not run heaters in any of my tanks as I am trying to keep them sustained as cool as I can manage. For a day to day, you're probably looking at 72 degrees or so as your optimal range for the fish, potentially down into the mid 60s. I don't keep goldfish, but that is just where the knowledge I have would keep them in my own care. I hope this helps! Ultimately it isn't something where anyone did anything incorrect and these things happen. "Be the fish" is a mantra from Eric Bodrock who is a highly regarded breeder trying to spawn species that have never spawned before. Ultimately, you saw the signs, asked for help, and here we are. You did everything right and it's awesome to see. Nice work!
  15. nabokovfan87
    Having dual sponges should be plenty. Adding salt, typically you'd want to add an air stone while the water has that in there. Potentially that was the issue.... But, I would say that your setup as described is more than adequate.
  16. nabokovfan87
    I wouldn't worry about the dose as much as just general oxygenation. Goldfish are cooler water species and this time of year it's just a bit hot. As temp increases, the oxygenation in the water is less so. That being said..... I would encourage you that any tank have an air stone if possible as well as emphasize that for any tank that is designed for fish that love cooler water (and in my experience also crave good oxygenation) as well as any tank that is just working higher temp than normal.
  17. nabokovfan87
    When it gets real bad.... Multiple layers of heavy duty foil works. I saw this recommended on the forums and it made sense to me. I guess it was a topic on one of green aquas videos and they said to avoid it because the amount of temp difference in the water could do harm to the fish. It's just too much of a localized temp drop. Not sure if it seriously matters, but it was an interesting thought.
  18. nabokovfan87
    Or he's hunting the ghosts!
  19. nabokovfan87
    Is it upside down? It looks dope. Seems to defy gravity a bit..... Or I need coffee.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Looks closer to 40 to me with the above chart on my phone.
  21. nabokovfan87
    I think the directions specify 3 minutes to test. The second photo it's a bit easier to compare. The API liquid tests it's so hard to compare because the scale goes from like a red to a "deep red" and in person I usually associated that with opacity.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Sterilite totes or setup a 10G on the floor temporarily. If you setup the tank on the floor you would want something hard like a wood board or plastic sheet under the tank to prevent the bottom glass from getting stressed. It is a semi-permanent thing, but just try to figure out something where you can lay on the floor or sit on the floor and visually monitor the fish. If the tank is empty, yes, but if the tank is not empty then it would not be considered QT.
  23. nabokovfan87
    A bit late to post, but the tank is back together. I think the amount of salt in the tank is "fine" and it'll be ok. The ferns are toast, non aquatic apparently, and the moss is a bit out of sorts. The anubias looks a lot better, but I do need to keep an eye on a rhizome or two. This will be the second time the plants have had any sort of fert recently. You can see everything is just sort of in place. This is the loose moss that I usually ball up in a section for them. And this is basically "the damage" so to speak from the entire treatment window. Just some green algae on the ohko stone. Ultimately, it feels much better to have a normal setup again. I am going to try to create that second colony, but that tank does have fish inside. Very minimal, but it does have some. I would argue it has less visible hides than this tank does. I will attempt it when I have some juveniles to move and go from there. The other option is to wait until I have ~10 adults or so. I am not sure which is best. I would assume that the smaller shrimplets can hide in the sußwassertang, but they are also bite size. I am going to use the warmer temps this time of year and hope that I can really progress the colony size. The goal is to have quality shrimp to sell with stable adults for the fall.
  24. nabokovfan87
    It's a good one to see because one of the main people on the film is a saltwater coral hobbyist. Here is a bit more about that process you hinted at. Some new developments. https://www.barrierreef.org/news/explainers/understanding-heat-tolerance-in-corals-great-barrier-reef
  25. nabokovfan87
    For fish interacting directly with the sand. I would recommend CaribSea Supernaturals sand. Crystal River is my current favorite, but there is a variety of colors that fit that grain size. Avoid anything too small as it will damage equipment. If you need help I can show you more details on things. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea Can you share your ram and the sand setup? Maybe a video of the beautiful ram eating? If you're specifically wanting black substrate, I also have used the seachem flourite black (they have a sand version, but normal is very fine as well.) It's a natural material where as some of the "black sand" is painted gravel with acrylic black paint.
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