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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    If you can, grab a tupperware/glass container or specimen container to try to get a clear photo from above. I would recommend cleaning it with bleach after use just to be safe. Hopefully someone can give a good ID for you. Welcome to the forums.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Looks very similar in terms of the fish's slimecoat going into overdrive. From another website that might be helpful for future knowledge. If someone is trying to ID this. I do see the spots on the puffer eyes so I think Colu is 100% right. Wishing you both the best in treatment. cc @rockfisher
  3. nabokovfan87
    @DiscusLover black out the tank for 24 hours when dosing the med. It's broken down by the lights. 😞 Minimum 3 treatments. Here is the video on the method of treating for worms.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Looks like it could be body rot, columnaris, or some sort of a spinal injury. The tail is deformed. I would get some gloves (you don't know what it is) and try to get the fish out. Clean any equipment used in that process and euthanize the fish. For the next 2-3 weeks be sure to monitor the tank daily for white marks on other fish. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea has a great thread about treating her nano fish for columnaris that might be of value to look back at. Very sorry about your fish struggles. Take the time to make sure you have what need be and just go through in case you need it.
  5. nabokovfan87
    typically some heavy metals... iron, potassium, magnesium, etc. will lead to some algae forming and it's usually not fun to try to get rid of. A lot of keepers don't have test kits for that sort of thing. It is the type of thing where you might not realize you are way over or have an issue. You're dosing iron because a plant has a deficiency, algae in the tank as well harming the plant from thriving, then you run into further issues because of the dosing issues. That being said. I think there is a lot of well written articles, guides, tips, notes, comments, and those sorts of things said in passing by some very talented plant keepers. Especially someone doing EI dosing, they really have a grasp for what to add to their water, when, and how much. I encourage you to look up some of the posts on iron in this section, there was a thread just recently diving into how hard it can be to get enough iron in the tank. There's also been stories of back in the day using iron nails to add iron to planted tanks. Just keep an eye out. My advice would be that whenever you're dosing any metals to a tank, have a kit to test for it. That's all. Some plants do need that added dosing. From the ACO blog article.
  6. nabokovfan87
    PVC is a nice touch. It's definitely something I need to add to my QT setup. Ich is just a difficult disease sometimes. Ich can show up as a result of stress. Something like temperature, PH, etc. can trigger that in some cases. This video might be helpful. I really, really had a hard time with Ich when it happened and I lost about half my tank. It was setup for almost 3 years and then I had new fish that introduced it. It happens, and unfortunately you live and learn.
  7. nabokovfan87
    red is the go to. I would like black rili / tiger versions. My own personal choice would be something like that, or a black rose variety. I would want a dark merlot red as opposed to the brown that you tend to see off of the chocolate line.
  8. nabokovfan87
    I would take a potato scrubber to the wood or something, but yeah, this is what sounds like the right path. A good healthy rinse in a hot shower or something, Clean it as best you can because you don't know what's going on with the stagnant water and organisms in that water. Add an airstone, cover the lid (no light) but leave an air gap, and just let them sit. Barring that, dry them out and just let it be what it is going to be. You'll likely have them with water somewhat and possibly sink if it's short enough time between no water and more water. Whenever I soak wood I either cover it, or have an airstone. Safest way is to have both just for the sake of it.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Something might have leeched into the wood and it might now be an issues, but I don't think that's what is going on here. It sounds a lot like Old Tank Syndrome and just too many organics have built up over time. It is a shock to the fish and they likely are trying to acclimate to new care regime. Adding air helps, adding salt helps (but can't add that with the frogs/snails). The main thing that is going to fix it is to clean everything really well, remove the built up junk in the substrate as best you can, and then going to a better water change schedule. The other factor here is temperature. I can't say what temp frogs want, I assume it's slightly cooler than the betta. I can't say what the temp was before it was in your care, but it was likely too low for at least one of the fish, but that's hard to say. The reason I mention it is because when something is off like temperature, you do have a higher stress level on that fish, opens up potential for disease, and it's probably been lingering or nagging the fish, causing them to have issues when acclimating again. There is a lot of "I think" assumptions in that string of sentences, but hopefully that helps to have the other perspective. A very worthwhile video to help out with this situation too.
  10. nabokovfan87
    First things first, add an airstone if you can. If you already have one, add another. Frogs might be having skin irritation issues with the water quality. BECAUSE ammonia is this bad, I would recommend your next water change be a big one. BEFORE you do this. Test the water and compare it to the tap water. You'll want to run an off-gas test 1. Take a sample from the tap, test everything you can. PH, KH, GH being the big ones 2. Take that same sample of water and aerate it for 24 hours, retest. 3. Compare test #2 results to the tank, that is what the fish are acclimating to when you do your water changes. use one dechlorinator and one bacteria-in-a-bottle per day. Dose once, minimum 24 hours apart.
  11. nabokovfan87
    what is the difference between cyclops and seed shrimp? I have one of them in my tank and need to understand why (healthy ecosystem, I get it). It's likely due to substrate cleaning regime? Extra junk in the substrate being there? Is there a movement trait or light trait to determine the difference between the two? for clarity, the thing in my tank looks like cyclops. Not sure what the options are, but that's the body shape. It is very likely I have both.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Literally my favorite. Then there's the great white. Oceanic white tip. Awesome to hear. Hopefully it was extremely enjoyable.
  13. nabokovfan87
    She protects them! She's honestly very good. Always takes care of her pandas and would keep the parents away from the fry. She's in the other tank, I moved her back with her pandas when I was able to get a tank for them. 🙂 This tank just had the black corydoras and then it has 2 male swordtails, amano shrimp, otos, and a clown pleco.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I spent a minute or two searching the tank for little fry to see if a bunch of them had jumped out of the Hang-on box. I was staring at the S. Repens roots at the front glass, looked up at the substrate line and staring back at me was this little one. From batch 1, in the tank (colony bred style, she's definitely a fighter) I checked the rest of the tank, I did find 1 (potentially 2) of the fry from the second spawn. Not a ton, but at least some did make it. I will try to circle it, but best of luck. I promise it's there! Very hard to see, I think this is it. Staring right at me.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Really nice setup so far. I had to giggle when I saw it. The light in the pond that inevitably always ends up as a shelf for everyone who ever has a light over a tank.
  16. nabokovfan87
    They'll get there. 😂 All that new space! Gotta see what parts work out. Now you get to imagine little corydoras in science coats and glasses looking all smart. 😂 Best of luck with it. Hopefully you see results soon, good thinking.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Correct. Water hardness would indicate caradina vs. neocaradina species. You'll want to run what is called an off-gas water test. 1. Take the sample from the faucet, test it immediately for everything you can. 2. Take that same sample and aerate it for 24 hours with an air stone, then retest everything. 3. Compare that to your tank. Your parameters for #2 and tank should be pretty similar if not the same.
  18. nabokovfan87
    What is your KH and GH?
  19. nabokovfan87
    Looking better. Almost there! Whenever you get the pad and all that stuff in place. Fill the tank 25% then recheck, fill it 50% recheck, fill it 75% recheck, etc. It's a deceivingly large amount of weight and can "settle" once the weight is on place or a little bit of time after the tank is setup. Looks good.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Sounds like it's egg time! Give whatever corydoras you want to spawn some frozen food (or just a good meal) tonight and maybe that will trigger things when the rain starts. *Runs to go feed his little fishes* It's magnificent, racks on one side as far as the eye can see!!! That's an awesome little fish room. I can't wait for you to have it done. It's going to be pretty special.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Blackened form. Some are about 1/4" and ready to go into the tank. Others are 3 days old. Others are about half that size and still developing their patterns. Definitely odd to see so much variation on just a day or two days apart on a spawn. (Of course the youngest is from the second spawn)
  22. nabokovfan87
    Some bulbs do go dormant. Maybe they woke up?
  23. nabokovfan87
    LOL. Thanks @tolstoy21 Now I'm just going to feel bad for anyone that ACTUALLY does that and is that literal.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I definitely believe it's a real thing. some fish just literally can't grow and internally their organs compress into one another when there's not enough space. I've never experienced it, but I am worried about it happening when I lost my ability to have the 75G up and running. https://cafishvet.com/fish-health-disease/fish-stunting/ Part 1 of the study: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6856111/ Part 2 of this study: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/337097902_Effect_of_Duration_of_Stunting_on_Physiological_Recovery_of_Stunted_Milkfish_Under_Field_Conditions_A_Relevant_Farmers'_Advisory https://www.biorxiv.org/content/10.1101/2020.04.04.025049v1.full Both of these seem pretty technical, might be helpful with the topic.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Worked fine for my sand tank. PH below 7.5, hard water, CO2. It was growing without CO2 as well.
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