Mmiller2001

You can separate all the fish or euthanize all the fish and let the tank run for 30 days or more. This will stop the life cycle of the worms and cure the tank. You can target dose the fish with medicated food as well. This is the most effective way. Here's a recipe I used 1TBS Freeze Dried Daphnia 1/8 TSP Fenbendazole 1 1/2 Scoops Seachem Focus 1 Pinch Epsom Salt 1/2 Cap Garlic Guard 1/2 Cap RO water Soaked for 30 minutes and then frozen Feeding once a week for 3 weeks

Amano shrimp!

Welcome

I simply removed the infected and have never seen it again.

That's BBA.

Lower light intensity. Increase water changes. Remove excessive organics. Dose a liquid carbon to temporarily remove the ugly. Resource for algae. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control

True dosing numbers are as follows NO³ 15.63ppm PO⁴ 5.88ppm K 20.46ppm Fe .63ppm as proxy 4dGH 0dKH CA:Mg 2:1

Discovered a massive mistake, dumb mistake too. I was calculating the wrong water volume so my fertilizers were way overboard. Hopefully, with the corrected numbers, things will go more smoothly. I'm done with Fluval lights. Way over priced and not RGB. Novice mistake on my part, so I ordered a new light for the 75 gallon and will be selling the 3.0's. New light arrives tomorrow and these will be the last pictures with these lights.

I throw mine in the garden.

I raise PO4 or drop light intensity.

YouTube bulk reef supply

Please link the foam you use. I want to try this. Thank you.

Is that a window to the outside? And a 4 month old tank is pretty new and it's going to take time for the substrate/tank to balance. I would wait it out as the diatoms eventually disappear. Adding snails and shrimp can help too. If that's a window to the outside, you may have an unsolvable algae problem with the tank in contact with outside light.

https://aquaticarts.com/collections/tetra/products/black-emperor-tetra ?

Everyone's mileage differs, but I have dosed first time or after water change dosage every day for several weeks. After the algae was killed off, I stopped dosing to see if I was heading in the right direction with the changes I made. I've also dosed first dosing amounts then half the first dosing amounts every day for 2 weeks. That worked as well. My dwarf sag took a hit though.

And a budget option with true 660nm LEDs. If it fits. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LY4F2FV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_D70RDECSGTJR60N4ZD49?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WRJ565N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FR4BYRRG3V64QTRH27AZ Another excellent option.

How do I word this without a backlash? I can't answer your nano questions, but I can answer how the 3.0's grow plants. Over priced, non RGB lights, with inferior PAR at current Fluval prices making them an absolute rip off. <---Is that a sentence? And they grow plants just, okay. Low light plants, sure, but demanding plants, err ummm. They can not create the better contrast that true RGB lights can. I'm selling all of my 3.0 lights and I've bought better lights for cheaper. Non RGB alone at a ridiculous price is a deal breaker. Do some research but I would start here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NW6LPG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QKQB0ZFZ6TGPXGGB4GVH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

More plants, and more plants.

Fritz Paracleanse or API General Cure

Probably, do half then a few weeks do the remaining or next filter cleaning. The carbon can be removed any time.

You might consider treating them to rule out that possibility. And Colu's advice is sound.

No. And if you want to clear up your water, Seachem Purigen is superior to carbon.

If the filter has a compartment for carbon, I'd fill that with Matrix as well.