Mmiller2001

100 percent, cut tops, replant and get the lower portion out of the tank.

This may help too. https://landoffish.com/anchor-worm-treatment/

Agree, these are real annoying. Look for Dimilin to treat this.

Waiting is the best solution.

The trim looks good!

Seachem Tidal series.

Is range detected in ppm? But it does look like you have enough Ca and Mg. Sometimes, too much light can cause that kind of curling, but I don't think that's the case here. Sadly, AR(Scarlet Temple) can be stubborn in some tanks. I've personally given up on it. Also, plants will get upset when they are moved into new water parameters which you might be seeing here. I would give it a few more weeks. Watch the new growth, the old growth will never recover. If new growth looks good, then cut it off, replant and remove the lower portion. This plant does best in aquasoils and under CO2 injection. It's sold as easy, but it's a bit misleading. An alternative would be Ludwigia Repens. It's much easier and will do well in low tech tanks.

I do, but many view it as "scary", but Seachem has potassium premixed, just expensive. I personally use dry fertilizers, there's an extra step in calculating the dose, but it's dirt cheap. Seachem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APILO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HWRMD04QKWWYTM3A7J2K My choice https://greenleafaquariums.com/products/potassium-sulfate-k2so4-1lb-jar.html 5 bucks and will probably last you 2 years. But takes a bit more initial calculating.

Thank you. My gut tells me ammonia. pH wouldn't concern me, especially with a drip acclimation. I use to drip acclimate, I'll be honest, drop and plop has been no different from drip. I've killed many fish in other ways though!

Okay with that yeah you will need to find dedicated potassium fertilizer.

Did you track the temperature of the water they were in over night?

What are your Nitrates?

This could be a lack of magnesium or an overabundance of potassium/ calcium. What is your GH and KH and what are you dosing into the tank. Do you know what's in your source water?

Ideally, that's what you want.

Agree, looks like moneywort.

You quoted that wrong, it's "go bigger", not "don't fix it".

Has to be one or the other?

I added some cherry barbs, and they seem to pick off the weaker small ones. My population is way down now. Maybe adding a few fish that will snack on them might help you.

Where were you able to order just females?

It's probably because of water parameters.

This, and I will add that these hobby level test kits can not be trusted without calibration. I highly recommend a decent pH pen, long term it's cheaper, and more accurate and easily calibrated. How much do those API test kits cost over the time of having your tank/s? This is the cheapest I would go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOHN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5473G0BJBPKGJWAFG9HT

I'm not sure what direction the 40 is moving in. I was able to purchase 3 more female Apisto's, so boy has been busy lately! Other than that, not too much to report, just some BBA I'm trying to figure out. Added some S. Repens, and Lobelia Cardinalis.

I had a chance to receive feedback from several people I follow on another forum, they are my inspirations, and I 100% listen to their advice. So, I have a couple of changes coming up. 1-I've ordered DTPA Fe 11% and 2-I'm reducing Micro dosing and splitting up how I dose. I have been dosing .63 ppm Fe (proxy) from CSM+B, today I lowered the weekly dose to .5ppm Fe (proxy). Once I receive the new DTPA Fe (11%), my new dose will look more like .4ppm Fe from EDTA CSM+B and .2ppm Fe DTPA. What this will achieve is lower Micro's Like Cu and B (as well as others) and be able to maintain a higher Fe PPM as well as have the 2 chelates in the tank. Apparently, DTPA will allow for more Fe to be available throughout the day. I will certainly be more active, here, when I begin the change. So for now, it's just a lower dose of CSM+B this week. The tank looked really clear this morning, so here are a couple of shots.

Thank you!