Mmiller2001

Nothing.

I really liked this. FairmountSantrol AquaQuartz-50 Pool Filter 20-Grade Silica Sand 50 Pounds, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ5GXSK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MVRVMN0D2Q8012PEFH60?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Black here.

Off the top of my head. 82R 74G 78B, something like that. 71PAR @ 18 inches, and 114PAR @14 inches, we can assume they are similar. No?

I'm just starting to get into toxicities, so I still have a lot to learn. But apparently, certain nutrients in excess will block uptake of another. Magnesium, above 10ppm can block Ca and K uptake and there are others. I can't get detailed until I have a handle in this area. And I'm not that smart, recipe for disaster 😆. This is further complicated by sporadic posts across various forums. It's tricky for sure, you might observe what looks like a deficiency, say yellow stunted new growth with holes in lower growth, but you are dosing 25ppm of K. So why is there what appears to be a deficiency in K? Oops, I was dosing 20ppm Mg, or my tap water had high amounts of Mg. Then micro nutrient toxicity (over dose) can present like a deficiency. I should probably start logging all the places I find with information in this area.

It's so frustrating isn't!

Right! I'm trying to convince my wife to let me switch it out. But for now, it seems stable. I've broken more plant stems in Eco Complete than I care to admit. I'm disappointed with it.

Buy the hoods, they just slide right one, glare gone. Trust me, I've gone through as many settings as possible to remove the yellow tone. I see the same yellow tone in the bottom picture. It's a symptom on non RGB lights. Maybe my dry climate, but I don't have moisture problems and I'm not sure how anyone would without dropping the light into the water. PAR measure is an accepted value amongst top aquarists, it's a relevant value. That top tank pops, vivid and is beautiful. The bottom tank, although scaped nice, looks flat. Nothing on you, it's the light. I agree on the Twinstar, but I would buy Twinstar over Fluval, knowing what I know now.

100% Eco Complete. I also experienced the same issue. I run 0KH and by weeks end, it would be 2.5dKH. I did some research and this is a known issue. That said, after about 7 weeks, whatever was raising has been depleted and my tank is now 0KH.

Fluval 3.0 48"- $219.99 (71 PAR@18inches) non RGB light-Has pinks? No green? Finnex ALC 48"-$124.55 (117 PAR@14inches) RGB light-True Red @660nm*** RGB true red>How does a light, at that price point, not have reds? Then let's look at pricing when we need more than 1 light. Let's take my 75 gallon. I needed 2 3.0's=$439.98 Here, I get a warranty and a "not that great APP". 2 Finnex ALC's =$251.10 Here, I bought a true RGB light with true 660nm reds, no APP and shorter warranty Now, let's look at lights that are superior to both the Fluval and Finnex. Just research why they are superior, It's obvious. TwinStar S series-$229.00x2(24" length)=$458.00 Chihiros WRG II 120-$349.50 Why are we buying these expensive lights? To grow plants and visual appeal? Do I buy 2 Fluvals when I can buy 2 Twinstars for a few bucks more? Personally, I went Chihiros, why? I got and APP, true RGB, true reds and I only need to buy one with excellent PAR. So here was 2xFluval 3.0's and then the Chihiros. Notice the yellow cast on the Fluval. That's what you get at that price point? That's unacceptable! From my direct observation, my plants grow better and are more "robust" since upgrading from Fluval. Could that also be a result of other variables, sure, but I've been pretty consistent recently. Sorry, but fluval is way over priced.

I don't want to bore you, but having such a high GH could be interfering with Ca and K uptake. What does the water report say about Ca and Mg?

Another reason I like just pouring in dry powder! The mold made me nervous.

Remove carbon or purigen. But if you are mixing in food, now worries as it goes directly into the fish.

They have 71 PAR at 18inches. That's max output. Add lids, extra water depth and possibly tannins to PAR reduction. Bottom line, they are not RGB lights and over priced. There are definitely better lights at a similar price range. I would buy Finnex ALC lights before ever buying Fluval lights. My Journal, around page 3 has a comparison of Fluval vs another brand. Night and day difference. For the plants you listed, why buy an expensive light? Almost any light will grow those low light plants. A 3.0 is over kill.

If feeding Paracleanse doesn't work, dose it to the water column. It will not disrupt your cycle. You should treat for 1 month. Flukes have a decent life cycle.

Ah, okay, that could be ammonia burn then. They can present very similar. I would do antibiotics in food first. Then watch for continued flashing.

I tried it early on when I was figuring things out. I now do a lean EI, it's pretty similar to pps pro. I just didn't like mixing up bottles. I really like just tossing in dry powder, but who knows, maybe I will try it again. I'm seriously thinking about getting rid of Eco Complete and going Landen Soil. PPS Pro makes sense with aquasoils.

Look into Hygrophila Serphyllum, I did some research and some claim it carpets without CO2. I tried to find it with very little luck. I found 1 place and ordered it, but the website was very sketchy. Fingers crossed. If I do get it, I will toss it into a low tech tank and report back. Fingers crossed.

Might not be a bacterial infection, or you need a stronger antibiotic like Kanaplex. Also, with any antibiotic in the water column, test ammonia every day.

Wait, did you cycle the tank with him in it?

For gill flukes, I would treat externally.

What you are describing sounds like gill flukes. In this instance, I would dose Paracleanse into the water per directions on the box. I would go 2 weeks dosing per directions, rest one week and dose a 3rd time on the fourth week per directions.

Fluctuating pH is not a problem. Osmotic fluctuation is where problems begin. This is why maintaining consistent GH and KH numbers is a priority. Even then, GH and KH certainly fluctuate in natural habitats.

Don't focus on pH, GH and KH are infinitely more important. KH dictates pH, research your fish and try to recreate the GH and KH environment they come from.

The solo one in the front can get about 5 inches. The back right corner should get about 15 inches, but they may have goofed the info sheet. It's staying pretty small. There's some green Crypt under the Polysperma that should get about 12 inches. It's starting to take off, so hopefully it maxes out soon. CRYPTOCORYNE MIOYA back right. CRYPTOCORYNE HUDOROI under the Polysperma. And I think the small one in the Sag is Crypt Affinis.