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xXInkedPhoenixX

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Everything posted by xXInkedPhoenixX

  1. xXInkedPhoenixX
    🤞🤞
  2. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Aww cute little jailbirds!
  3. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Ok, explain this to me gamers.....an aquarium game...but you already have ACTUAL aquariums.....isn't this equivalent of a race car driver playing a racing game? 😂 Whyyyyyy
  4. xXInkedPhoenixX
    @eatyourpeas this is why I was wondering what kind of wood....possibly Oak Moss...which I believe is a type of Lichen. That's my best guess. Sadly no pics of it growing underwater that I can find so it's hard to id, it should look different growing underwater- at least I think so.
  5. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Guppies or Endlers hands down. You have the color (and you can have all of similar colors or every single one can be different), durability, personality, activity even interaction (like you'd get with a Betta) and you can keep more than 1 even in the smallest tanks. You also have options for easy breeding. Bettas IMO have too many parameter requirements and once sick seem to rarely come back from it which is a bummer and a dispointment for new fish keepers. I'd rather someone start with fish they can keep easily. Schooling fish are great I have them but I could see new fish keepers getting bored with them especially since most new people start with 5 or 10 gallon tanks.
  6. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I'm guessing it came in with the wood, what kind of wood is it do you know?
  7. xXInkedPhoenixX
    IMO the only algae eaters that work well in smaller tanks (I have a 4.12 and a Flex which is probably more like a 7 gallon when all calculated in) is Nerite snails. Bladder snails would work too. The problem with bottom dwellers, is either they are too high waste producers or their food will foul the water since it needs to sit on the bottom (the water parameter balance is delicate in a small tank). The solo dwellers like Plecos and Siamese Algae Eaters get WAY too big, and the shoalers like Corys and Otos should be kept in groups of 6 or more to be comfortable. A Nerite and maybe a few bladder snails are the only good choice in a small tank like this.
  8. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Yep, totally get it. 70 is not warm enough for most tanks when it comes to ambient temperatures. I personally don't like to be cold and run cold naturally (my hands always ice) so my house is set to 72 and the room where my tanks are have help with a heater which is kept between 75-79 degrees depending on the day/mood and of course the whole room isn't exactly those temps it's just a setting on a heater. I also have a stove that's from 1940s whose (yes whose, when a stove is that old it deserves that title IMO haha) pilot light is on 24/7 I can nearly cook on stovetop without it being on. So I'm lucky not to have to use heaters. I have a Pymeter and heaters in case they are needed so I do have the potential to have a set up like yours because I'm always prepared!
  9. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Several members here use Rooibos with good effect if you search the forum for rooibos you can get their opinions and brands they use. While IAL *might* be the best of tannins for aquariums, most similar tannins like with Rooibos is going to have benefits- so if it's all you can afford and you want to go that direction I wouldn't discourage it!
  10. xXInkedPhoenixX
    @plantedtanks1052 welcome to the forum! Nice tank you have going there so far!
  11. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I completely realize it's not always possible depending on where you live, what you keep your house at, what species you're keeping. BUT these kinds of posts are exactly why I decided if I couldn't be low tech (where the only worry would be if my air pumps weren't working) I wouldn't go into this hobby at all. Heater failure- no matter what kind of failure- is a total nightmare to me!
  12. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Well it's great they figured it out so quickly! I feed mine in bowls and only occasionally get to see them (1 or 2 usually) feed, mine are definitely more active at night. Most of mine are offspring of my original 7 so I'm trying to get them to breed more so I can get some 2nd generation tank bred Otos in hopes they are heartier. I'll likely have to introduce more eventually.
  13. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I love my Otos too! I have about 50+ maybe more (impossible to get a count). They have super low bioload in my experiencce. I leave food in the tanks for them, Hikari Algae wafers and Repashy Soilent but they seem to like Repashy Super Green even more. I agree with prior statements, as long as the food is not fouling the water it's all good. I'm sure the shrimp eat some of the food. Usually the concern is UNDER feeding Otos! I think you're probably doing good!!
  14. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Awww, so sad. 😔
  15. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I would watch less TV too if I could see them, as what little I can see is defintely fascinating. I love the little dances that the boys do with each other and then the girl chasing and even the girls chasing other girls. I don't even have a clue if all 9 of them are still in there! 😫 I'm a deprived fish keeper.
  16. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Well to me even better, you can start now and hopefully they'll warm up to you! 🙂 All I can say is for now, at least my Guppies love me. 🙃
  17. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I was just discussing this very thing with @Mmiller2001 today as he has a beautiful planted tank with 14 Harlequins that are not afraid of him and I have 10 that swim away from me (and we both likely have hands IN tank every day). With "schooling or shoaling" fish I have a feeling it depends on numbers- what might be a sweet spot (14 for miller for example) for some. Sometimes it can be cover- do the fish feel safe? It might be something as simple as hand feeding your fish every day doing the same thing. Miller shared a video where he taps the glass and the Harlequins come for food- while tapping the glass for other households is a sign for fish to swim away! Fish do respond to routine- I feed my bottom feeders in bowls- they know where they are. My Black Neons (who also keep away from me) do come to the front of the tank when they know it's feeding time. Maybe you can think of something you can do on a regular basis that will get your fish to respond to you. I'm going to be working on that more myself and see what they react to.
  18. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Because my CPDs are in a small cube I don't get to see the drama, there's a little bit of an open space in the front/middle where they come out and feed and maybe squabble but once I approach the tank everybody scatters. Something I thought of when you said that happened to you I always think "oh no the cops!". Anyway, sad that I don't get the see the drama like you can, my tank has lots of hiding places. No signs of babies. If I sit in front of the tank long enough individuals and small groups will dart out from time to time. Darn it, I want a soap opera!
  19. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Ever seen a bird cleaning a Crocodile's teeth on a nature show? Don't eat the dentist it's helping you. Lesson learned. 🙃
  20. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Totally get the slowly part. I didn't like doing it because it seemed to make my fish uncomfortable but it definitely did the job faster. Medicating for longer I hate too, so it's 6 of one half dozen of another. You're probably just seeing the newer life cycles coming through. I would keep going until no signs after 7 days or unless fish show signs of stress.
  21. xXInkedPhoenixX
    I have treated Ich a few times successfully. I treated with API Super Ick 1x and 2x Seachem ParaGuard (I would use API again, I have Ich X but no experience with it yet). I treat Ich until there have been NO signs for 7 days. Upping the heat (I'm not sure 78 works it would have to be higher) helps speed up the lifecycle and like you said yes, when they drop from the fish, hatch from the substrate and become free swiming that is the only time they can be killed. Because technically you're not using heat yet, what you are likely seeing is other lifecycles happening at different rates. It's possible the Ich X isn't being dosed correctly? I know it's not as blue as API Super Ick is. You don't have any filter media running that would remove meds? I treated with heat 1x and the other 2x without heat- the only difference was it takes a lot longer when there is no heat. Definitely add an airstone if you use heat, it depletes oxygen.
  22. xXInkedPhoenixX
    BABIES!!! So cute! Congrats!
  23. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Sure why not!
  24. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Bare bottom totally fine. A lot of us use plastic bins. I use holding tanks sold by our big box pet store over here (that are plastic). So you know, I have a long term patient with popeye in a tank, There is a piece of java fern in there with him and I've used all sorts of meds (including Kanaplex) and salt and Indian Almond leaves, and while the plant is not super happy, is still green/alive (also know I don't run any sort of lighting so the plant probably hates that too)
  25. xXInkedPhoenixX
    Ah, that makes total sense (the organics) being food for the algae. I'm always hesitant to use fertilizers in my tanks- my plants seem to do ok of course they could do better- but I'm not in a competition bracket for anything. However thanks for telling me they don't negatively effect them, while I "know" that in a way I still have hang ups about them so hearing that helps. Your Harlequins are super "red" like mine are so they must be really happy with their environment. How many are in there? I have 10- they are scaredy fish. I should put my hands in more often and see if that changes it.
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