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About Me

Found 9 results

  1. ZeroCool


    Hello. I am new and have been working on my fist 20 gallon tank . It’s been up almost 3 months . Was adding 2 of the last 4 fish I ordered . Like a fool I didn’t know about or have a quarantine tank. One of the new fish died and the other looks to have the same thing. Looking to treat the whole tank with kanaplex but I still have 2 other ordered fish coming in 24-34hrs and no where to put them. I want to treat the tank but was wondering about acclimating new fish in the middle of a treatment. Should I start the treatment or wait for new fish and do it ? Thank you . I have done some salt treatments in the time being.
  2. First noticed ich on Wednesday AM. Got new fish Sunday and Sunday afternoon did med trio. Then Wednesday AM saw ich only on the rummy nose tetras. Did partial water change after work and redosed Ich-X. Looked worse in the morning, did another change and another dose. Looked better after work on Thursday. Changed water and redosed. Now it's spread to other fish. Everyone is eating OK and I think med trio cleared some worms out of a couple of cardinal tetras that were pretty thin, they seem to be gaining a little weight. Been changing water and dosing Ich-X about every 12 hours since Wednesday afternoon. And it's not clearing up. Rummy nose look worse again today than last night. I know it's only 'killable' in the free-swimming stage... I bumped the temp up a couple of degrees (was at 76 got it to 78 now). If no difference in the AM, I might bump it to 80 when I redose. One thing I've noticed is that the blue color in the water is darn near gone within... half an hour? It's not there for long at all. Maybe that's normal. I've never used Ich-X and I haven't treated ich in probably two decades. Pic is best I could get on one of the rummy nose. Water Parameters: pH - my tap water comes out of the tap at 7 and ages to 8.2, this tank has Fluval Stratum which seems to drop pH to about 6.5. I change water straight out of the tap. Nitrates - tons of plants also in quarantine, nitrates are rock bottom... MAYBE "5" on the test strip this morning. Hardness - 18 degrees/320 ppm Nitrite - 0 Ammonia - 0 KH/Buffer - 16 degrees/285 ppm Water Temperature - 76 before this afternoon, now increased to 78 Thanks!
  3. 10G Betta tank with suspected columnaris. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think about the diagnosis! Onset: 6 days ago, white patch behind his head suddenly appeared. Hasn’t seemed to get worse or better. He is more lethargic than normal, but is still eating and occasionally swimming around the tank (not just up for air). Fin rot seems slightly better now but is still severe compared to what he had before this started. Current treatment: water change and gravel vac immediately and again yesterday; darkness in the tank for four days and now limited lighting, Ich-X (5mL), and Maracyn (1 packet). Left the Ich-X and Maracyn to sit for three days, did a 30% water change and re-treated with both yesterday. (Yes, I did a water change but wasted a couple days trying to figure out what it was before medicating!) Thinking of treating with kanaplex, but have qualms because it’s a heavily planted tank, with a nerite and otos in it that might also suffer or die. Thoughts? This is following a bout of BGA from lack of nutrients, and fin rot from the nasty BGA tank conditions until I got it figured out, killed, and now mostly cleaned up (there’s probably a random dead piece in the gravel). Previous fin rot and BGA were treated with two rounds of maracyn two weeks apart, one round of Paracleanse, big water changes and plant prunings, and more consistent ferts. Tank is recovering and looking much better, but betta’s fin rot is worse again and now he has a big white-tinged patch. He does have the marble gene, and he is just over a year old (he’s been with me a year and was a medium-sized juvie when I bought him). This appeared very suddenly about 6 days ago, more than a week after the last rasbora death. After researching, I found that kanaplex was probably my best bet, but I don’t want to lose my corkscrew vals or my other plants, or my otos, or my nerite, and seachem says it is hard on inverts and plants and some scaleless fish. On other forums, people say most of their nerites survived, and all their plants survived, but they didn’t have vals (which can be more sensitive). Nobody said anything about otos. Parameters: pH: 7.8 Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 10 Temp: 79.5F KH was high last time I checked it, but I haven’t checked it in a while because it remained steady for a long time and I do regular water changes with tap water and it is fairly hard tap water. I always have to double-dose my Prime because of the chloramines present in my tap water. Other tank inhabitants: 3 otos, one zebra nerite, 2 emerald-eye rasboras (2/4 rasboras died suddenly after I added the otos two weeks ago; no symptoms…betta may have reacted to more stock being added to his happy equilibrium and killed them…or maybe columnaris killed them due to their own stress after the otos). If this was columnaris, wouldn’t the betta most likely be dead already? Or noticeably worse? Wouldn’t the other rasboras or the otos be showing signs of it too? (They’re not, even though I know the rasboras are stressed from losing their school from the way they hang out with their reflections and zip around.)
  4. A few days ago, Grume developed a few small pinholes, maybe 1-2 of them, which I figured could be from his consistent clumsiness. However, two days later (yesterday), they were worsening. Today, I noticed thin white strings on his fins, though they’ve since fallen off from his wiggles. There are no behavioral changes, signs of stress, or anything similar, thankfully. I preformed a 40% water change, and noticed that the black spore-like dots on my driftwood now has a black jellyfish-looking fungus on it, growing on the underside. I plucked off the emerged fungus I could spot off of the driftwood. After, I added a dose of Kanaplex, which I’ll continue with, as per the instructions. Grume has handled Kanaplex well in the past, when I first quarantined with it as part of his Quarantine medications, so I opted to use this, instead of trying to wait for a medication to arrive by mail (although I ordered Maracyn just in case), since I’m 90% bedridden and am unable to leave the house and drive. My worry, which is why I’m creating this post, is about the black spores. They’re solid, they withstood multiple boilings, and since they’re now suddenly erupting with the fungus, I’m unsure if the Kanaplex would actually be able to go through the spores’ shelling. I have a photo of a younger looking fungus I missed, although it’s dark and difficult to see it. I’ve been plucking these off, and they’re squishy, float, and anchor to the wood extremely strongly. Given the state of the driftwood, would it be better to scrap it, once I finish the Kanaplex doses? Or, is there a different approach. I suspect this could have resulted from a light change, as my Finnex light broke and the Fluval light I ordered was much darker, which triggered a large algae bloom as well. Perhaps the fungal spores responded to the light change, ending their dormancy. I’ve since added a new Finnex light yesterday.
  5. Hey, quick question about KanaPlex dosing. I have a 30 gal that has minor epistylis, saw it this morning. I have seen the KanaPlex dose chart, and saw that it’s one scoop KanaPlex, one focus and a tablespoon of food per 5 gallons, does that mean I have to do 6 tbsp food?? My fish definately don’t eat that much 😂. Is there a better way to do this or am I just not understanding right?
  6. Kanaplex or marycin 2 they seem to treat the same things but which do you guys think is more reliable?
  7. Hello everyone, I am seeking any advice pertaining to a massive Rasbora die off in my 29Gal tank. My water parameters are: 76.5 degrees F, 0 ppm ammonia, PH: 7.4-7.8, 0 Nitrite, and 10ppm Nitrate. Food once a day: Sera San nature color flakes, live black worms (for the baddis), Some additive foods every other day (pick one): baby brine shrimp, blood worms and frozen brine shrimp I dose my tank with Seachem Florish Excel (1cap/day) and Seachem Florish (1 cap/ week). Symptoms: -white fins (different for each fish some dorsal some one side some tail etc.) -white spots on the sides of body -eyes popping off on the dead fish -isolation, and occasional belly up, then they flip back to normal and continue swimming -flicking against leaves, wood and walls Back story: About 3 weeks ago I was at a boring point with my tank. Went to the store and wanted to change things up a bit, guy at the store suggested 3 pea puffers and 3 scarlet badis... for a community tank (horrible idea in hindsight) I added the fish to my heavily planted tank comprised of (a lot of guppies 20+, 5 juli corys, 3 brocci corys, 15 harlequins, 13 neon tetras, 4 otosinclus cats, 5 amano shrimp, and 2 nitrite snails, and a lot of pest snails) the idea was to have the pea puffers and baddis feed on the pest snails, and help keep the guppies under control. Everything seemed great for the next week. Then I went on a 6 day vacation. Came home to 5 dead Rasboras all with bite wounds, and 1 dead guppy. The Rasboras that remained seemed very stressed, some bite wounds and fin rot, and white patches... I immediately did a 90% water change, returned the pea puffers in exchange for 3 more harlequins (13 total now) then did a 50% water change the following day. Went to work the 3rd day from being home and after work found 2 more dead Rasboras (not the new ones). Did a massive internet search to find that it could be bacteria Columnaris. Went to the local fish store to ask their suggestion; they recommended seachem kanaplex treatment + mixing it into the frozen brine shrimp food. In all 9 fish have died... 8 harlequins and 1 guppy (likely from birth while on vacation). The seachem kanaplex treatment says to stop after 3 treatments...the third treatment was 24hrs ago...so now I don't know wether or not to do a water change or to keep the treatment going...? Last night I finally got some aquarium salt to supplement the treatment but came home to another dead one today. I am down to 5 harlequins and 3 of which have white spots still... Will all my fish die from this? Am I treating properly? Also, will the aquarium salt kill off my plants? Im stressed, my fish are stressed, if someone could help that would be great.
  8. Mr. Fish has an early case of dropsy. Using only a bit of epsom salt and kanaplex as directed. Have had tank cycled with ZERO issues for a year. (ie ammonia always has been 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 20 - 40 (only around 40 a few times), PH always 8.2 (high I know but stable) with same values as recent as 3 days ago. Nitrates were a bit higher (30). I just did first dose of Kanaplex yesterday. I tested the water tonight (as I have been every few days lately due to his initial inactivity) and for the first time ever Ammonia is reading 0.25-0.35 ish. Nitrites 0 Nitrates 20. PH 8.2 All parameters are the same except Ammonia. I changed 25% of water a couple of hours prior to yesterday's Kanaplex dose. Same filter media in place as has been (sponges - several). No carbon. No UV. Temp at 70-72. I found a forum online with a fella that had an immediate 1.0 ammonia reading after kanaplex and he emailed seachem. (using API master as well) He copied their reply several days later stating that lab folks confirmed kanaplex CAN give a false reading for ammonia. I'm wondering if it simply killed off my good bacteria or do I trust this may be a false reading. So - next dose due tomorrow after a 25% water change, and I'm wondering this: 1. Do I risk another dose or stop? 2. Can I add some 'safe start' BB or will the meds simply go to work on that vs the issue at hand?? 3. And would safe start help fast enough IF ammonia spikes again or higher? 4. Is it possible or has anyone experienced kanaplex giving a false reading? 5. Is there any thoughts or ways to confirm false reading vs an actual cycle crash? Also, I am in Canada so access to most of what I'd like to have on hand is slow or impossible. API has an ammo-lock but haven't read reviews or details to know much about how helpful that will be. Plus I dislike adding much more. For water treatment, I use API Stress Coat +, but thankfully our well water shows 0 for anything concerning. I compare my tap water to my tank often and not a lot of difference shows. Appreciate any ideas or thoughts. I'm on NO sleep (fish watch) so could be missing something super obvious.
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