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anewbie

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Everything posted by anewbie

  1. anewbie
    This is species specific - it isn't a matter of 'skill' it is nature of the fish; nijjensi complex will mostly co-parent (pair forming); mac and hongsloi is a bit grey; agassiz, cockatoo, borelli, trif - only the mom parents - in a sufficiently large aquarium with multiple males/females you will see the male forming large territories with several females wondering into them for the sole purpose of breeding.
  2. anewbie
    This isn't strictly correct. Borelli are not pair forming. Each female will establish a territory independent of the other once they are ready to breed - the male could care less about them other than breeding but if you have a younger female that is not of suitable breeding age the male might try to drive it out of the territory; conversely the female that is ready to breed will not want any bottom dwellers in her area - and definitely not another young borelli. As i mentioned before the aquarium you are using is generally consider a bit risky for 2 of this species much less 3; and while the plan to remove the male is a good one you might find timing extremely critical. Certainly once the female lay eggs there might be a window where she is close to the eggs and dont' notice the male but if she does she will attack him and he will need to quickly find a place to hide. The exact level of aggression is highly dependent on individual fishes so what actually happens in your case is hard to predict and some do have short term success in a 15. The problem here is the female can kill the male (or another female) very very quickly if they hit it in the right spot. These sort of attacks are not going to be fin attacks or lip locking. She will target major organs - how they know where to find them - i have no clue - i guess it is one of the thing the fish lord taught them when he created them. Fin damage and lip locking are more territorial dance or what i call bickering - and i find males more likely to bicker than females.
  3. anewbie
    You are keeping gbr with honey gourami at 82 ?
  4. anewbie
    Someone ate my two year old blyxa nov (an expensive set of plants); I suspect it was a bunch of baby bn pleco but i suppose it could have been the panda gara - who knows - someone. My mystery snail (single snail) ate all my pearl weed and it was a forest - didn't take him long at all to munch through it all. thankfully he leaves my horn worth alone - though i think i kind of preferred the pearl weed.
  5. anewbie
    I wanted to mention a new crypt i picked up that on the surface seems quite nice: Cryptocoryne Pontederiifolia Red Lips - I've only had it for about 2 1/2 weeks so it is too soon to declare long term growth pattern but colour wise it is slightly deeper than Jacobensii pink and has the leaf shape of a pontederiifolia. Here is an awful picture - the leaf below the one i circle is in critical focus but that how it goes - i can take another one later when i get home if you want:
  6. anewbie
    My problem with the co-op light is that it has limited settings also (and more important to me) it doesn't have a sunrise/sunset and if you have fishes easily startled by the light jumping on at full from off then it is not a great option - other than that the speces seem good but i haven't checked it for colour balance et all and since you can't adjust the balance you either like it or not. - I'm not happy with the aquasky; the fluval 3.0 was my go to light but it is a bit yellow and i've not found an adjustment that is more neutral. I'm pretty happy (so far) with the new ai blade BUT it is not sealed like the fluval 3.0; does not have a 3 year warranty like the fluval 3.0 and is about the same price. It is quite a bit stronger - so this is definitely a high end light - similar to wrgb 2 and twinstar - maybe a little cheaper - not sure haven't compared them. I've not used the twinstar but was very unhappy with the wrgb 2 (though a lot of folks like it). All of these are overkill lights for your application so mentioning is probably not to helpful other than to state i would not buy the aquasky. On the less expensive side of things a lot of people like the beamworks (not claiming it is better or worse than the various hygger models; just mentioning it as an alternative). - When comparing lights be sure to compare the same size (length) - sometime people make mistake and end up comparing two models at different length which will mess up the comparison. - One thing you can do is search the model you are looking at and "par" to see if someone has measured par at various depths. 'par' is considered a more useful value than lumens.
  7. anewbie
    Link doesn't work. Is it correct that you are judging the quality of a light based off the price ?
  8. anewbie
    I guess you've had fat embers; i've never had fat embers. As to the lazy aspect that is what makes them a good candidate for a 15. I do not recommend all (or even most) species of many fishes to a 15. The species a. pucallpaensis is suitable for a 15. People get hung up on the genus rather than focus on specific species. It is like saying that all tetras are suitable for a 15 and that is not the case; there are many species of tetra that are not suitable for a 15....
  9. anewbie
    All sort of options - you could do a pair of A. pucallpaensis; or badis. You could do a group of shrimps and Pangio shelfordii; you could do some ember tetra or guppies. In my 10 where i keep a. pucallpaensis - i use shrimps and mystery snails to eat excess food. They will breed (though the frys should be fed bbs after a few days if you wnat them to make it); they arean't as colourful as some fishes but they are peaceful enough to exist in such a small aquarium. Badis are more colourful but should be fed live food which sounds like a no-no for your setup. Btw you didn't mention your water hardness and that makes a big difference on stocking - for example i would not put guppies in soft water (i suspect your water isn't that soft since you keep platies such). A 15 is pretty small for a perpetuating group of guppies - of course if you don't add females that won't be an issue.... While the size of the aquarium does limit what you can keep there are still hundreds of options....
  10. anewbie
    If you like melon swords then you might look at rubin swords.
  11. anewbie
    In terms of pure colour the kleiner prinz is going to be pretty close but it requires a fair amount of light and it won't be streaked but solid wine colour; in terms of your description red flame or various ozelot hybrid are likely close but they are going to be mostly green with various amount of red streaks in the leaves; the amount depends on the exact hybrid (red flame and ozelot are closely related); but they all tend to have dark green with dark red (maybe too dark to your liking); also they stay reasonably small - after 5 years my red flame was never larger than 7 or 8 inches. red flame will grow larger if grown submersed. The problem with these plants is they are not an 'exact' species and the label seems to be applied to a variety of similar plants so you never really know exactly how it will look until you plant it and give it a few years - also growing condition (light, co2, mineral content) will have a more noticeable impact on the exact appearance.
  12. anewbie
    Are you looking for a mix of red green or do you want specifically pinkish or deep red - there are a lot of different sword plants ranging from pinkish (mixed with green) to deep red mixed with green - folks mentioned melon - there is also red flame; ozelot and a few dozen hybrids. Rubin swords are more uniform in colour though with good lighting and get purplish; and there are some other sword plants with pink to purple leaves that are not mixed with green like kleiner prinz and purple aflame. Towards the pink direction there is echinodorus rose and oriental - generally speakingi think the red ones do better than the pink ones. Another one is echinodorus micracle. Too many to keep track.
  13. anewbie
    That part is true-ish; but ph also influence plants (some require acidic water other alkaline; what I don't know is if this requirement is due to ions in the water or some other factor being expressed as ph (i.e, is it the ph itself; ion (which i think is ph); or kh. My guess is people measure the ph but don't narrow into the specific of what is impacting the plants.
  14. anewbie
    Why is the tiger crypt on the cut list; is this s dutch thing or just an issue of too many options something has to go. Btw what gh/kh are you using? My tiger has been roaring the past year but i'm not being nearly as precise as you are with the chemistry. The only issue with 0dkh is making sure that during changes to the aquarium the chemistry doesn't change too quickly as some fishes have problems with rapid change - it isn't so much the actual ph that upset them but the ion level (if that is the right way to express it) and raising the kh from such a low level can have a large impact on the ion level. As for plants while i no longer remember specific species i do remember that across a large number of species some plants will have polar requirements to water chemistry (i.e, some prefer soft(er) water and other harder water; 'prefer' being an understatement for some species).
  15. anewbie
    One of these days i should post more pictures; but did the usual change on my 120; my lilies now completely cover the top of 1/2 the aquarium (that is 8 sqft of surface covered) and my jungle val leaves are exceeding over 8 feet (which at this point is getting annoying). I think next time i cut one i'll lay it out on the floor with a ruler. My festum snagged another serape and i still have another 7 weeks till i move (and can sep them). Oddly enough (or perhaps not) it is the females (which are relatively small - maybe 3 1/2 inches - that does the snagging - so much for the theory they will only eat what fits in their mouth - i think the theory should be they will eat what they can break into small pieces to fit in their mouth.
  16. anewbie
    This seems to be both dependent upon species and scaping; i have had some species where the male never accepts people - or at least haven't after several years. While the females generally seem more bold again exact behavior depends upon species.
  17. anewbie
    No clue but if they are WC and you can get the region of the catch that might help.
  18. anewbie
    I have 6 in a 40 (basically 2 aquahuna packs); i've had them for a while now - 5 months - they are like otto on steriod - instead of being eclusive and shy they are extremely aggressive eaters and disrupts other fishes trying to eat - they are fearless - they will fight among themselves but it seems infrequent - other than the aggressive eating they have left other fishes alone. They do eat bba which is a bonus. I think overall i prefer otto but otto can be more fragile and less entertaining if that matters.
  19. anewbie
    I'm going to disagree here but i've kept them for years and years and not a short period. Come back in 5 years and lets talk about it.
  20. anewbie
    What is special about eleocharis montevidensis as compared to other grasses ? Btw I really liked my Blyxa novoguineensis until it got eaten; the texture is quite nice though you have to be fairly close to see it.
  21. anewbie
    You nailed it. 10 feet long; 4 feet wide; 23 inches high - and it will be a pia to aquascape due to my lovely short arms. My hope is to make the scape similar to this: I will use a nicer substrate as i'm not a fan of coarse eco-complete and quite frankly it is not the best substrate for my stocking - though it does age well i will admit that much (this substrate has been in used for 5 years). The festy will move into the 450 as they are a bit harsh on the angels - though things might work better with the improved foot-print. The loaches will go into the 550 with the angels. - Gonna be a lot of work to set them up... and a lot of substrate - though thankfully i can move the substrate stone by stone if i have to as oppose to all at once.
  22. anewbie
    What I can now say first hand is a 550 gallon glass aquarium is one heavy thing - even with 12 guys carrying it. I strongly recommend you not try this by yourself.
  23. anewbie
    UGF work well when they work but over years they can get clogged as 'junk' gets trapped below the plates and there can be bacteria issues - i had one a long time ago but by the time i moved - 4 years later it was causing problems. I think they work better with coarser/large substrate than smaller fine substrate - but of course 90% of the fishes i keep want fine substrate so there is that conflict. I've seen something similar to UGF that is home made with drilled pvc lining the bottom of an aquarium - the guy who posted about it (it was on one of the monster forums for very large aquariums) said it worked quite efficient but i bailed on that idea - as one problem i have with larger aquariums is the work it takes to 'fix' a problem at the substrate level.
  24. anewbie
    As a general rule like most boita they should be kept in a group of at least 5 (the more the better) and they can develop bad social behavior if not kept in a group. Unfortunately yoyo do get fairly large over a couple of years and would require a decent size aquarium. zebra loaches are much smaller (not as small as dwarf loaches) but are also a lot more shy; dwarf loaches are still smaller - a group of 10 in a 40B is a sight - and they are not very shy and extremely active. Clown loaches are wonderful but a group of 10 would require at least a 180 and 240 or 360 would be nicer (though opinions differ here).
  25. anewbie
    The time to become very concern is once she lay eggs; generally speaking borelli are fairly peaceful and the male is usually not overtly aggressive towards females when they are not ready to breed (unlike some other species); however she can be a little fire cracker once she has laid eggs and despite her small size she knows how to seriously damage or kill the male so that is the time you have to be most careful. Given the small size of your aquarium you might consider removing him once she has eggs/frys.
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