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Coronal Mass Ejection Carl

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Everything posted by Coronal Mass Ejection Carl

  1. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Did you use Ammo Lock? What's the pH?
  2. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Probably but it's a lot. I only add 16 grams per 40 gal for a fish that has permanent gill damage that I keep in a high oxygen tank (above 100% saturation). I used 2-4 grams in my 125 gal for nitrite. It would be useful for fish stressed from shipping also.
  3. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Kosher salt from Wal-Mart?
  4. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    This is exactly how my first Fluval E 200W behaved. "Low flow" errors and not heating. The instruction book tells you how to pop the whole guard off. That solved all my problems. The downside is that the suction cups are attached to the upper section of the plastic guard so you can't stick it anywhere unless you borrow the bracket from another heater. Or you can just remove the lower sections of the guard (I haven't personally tried this so I don't know how well this works).
  5. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    The Fluval Es are expensive but they do have dual electronic thermostats which should make it unlikely for them to fail on. I find they heat fine once you take the plastic guard off. I've measured the 300W ones consuming 295W.
  6. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    I have that one too and so have other people.
  7. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    If there's a warranty beyond DOA then I would be inclined to acclimate the way the seller suggests otherwise be prepared to claim you did even if you didn't. 1) Are these gas permeable bags? If they are then CO2 shouldn't build up since most materials are far more permeable to CO2 than oxygen. 2-3) How much does pH increase when you add a little tank water to it? You're also diluting the bag water. There's probably a way to calculate this if you make assumptions about ammonia, CO2, pH, and alkalinity levels but it sounds like it would be tedious. 4) This really doesn't make sense since the water in the bag plus whatever tank water you've added can't be that much. Even if ammonia was high in the bag it would also be significantly diluted.
  8. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Prime neutralizes chlorine (actually chloramine since that's what my tap water has) at a rate of 122 mg/mL. Safe neutralizes it at a rate of 0.515 grams chlorine per gram of Safe. The recommended dose of Prime (1 mL / 37.85 L) then neutralizes 3.22 mg/L chlorine and that of Safe (1 mg/L) only 0.515 mg/L. 3.22 / 0.515 = 6.25 You can also calculate that 1 mL Prime = 237 mg of Safe. For perspective, the solubility of sodium thiosulfate is 700 mg/mL so if API maxed out the ST in their Tap Water Conditioner they could blow away Prime in concentration. 500 mL Prime is $12.79 and neutralizes 500 mL * 0.122 mg/mL = 61 g chlorine. 250 g Safe is $9.99 and neutralizes 250 g * 0.515 = 128.75 g chlorine. 12.9 g chlorine per dollar for Safe and 4.77 g/$ for Prime making Safe 2.7 times more cost effective. If you go big: 4 L Prime 6.51 g/$ 4 kg Safe 20.6 g/$
  9. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    I've heard the Inkbird controllers have drift/accuracy issues. Ranco and Johnson Controls controllers have issues as well. Cheap heaters increase the chance of a leak. Multiple underpowered heaters decrease the chance of freezing or cooking your fish but increase the chance of a leak. Heaters with electronic thermostats decrease the risk of failing on though I've heard of some Cobalt Neotherms doing just that and I think they have electronic thermostats. A quality titanium heating element such as the one made by Schego decreases the risk of leaking but there's no satisfactory controller to pair it with. A thermometer with temperature alarms reduces the risk of freezing/cooking fish but does nothing for leaks. I don't think there's a perfect option yet. Right now I use a thermometer with alarms and Fluval E heaters. Together, they almost completely eliminate the possibility of freezing/cooking fish but the Fluval Es can still leak. I could mount it so the top is above the waterline though. The other possibility is to find/build a better temperature controller and use it with a Schego heating element.
  10. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
  11. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    100% sure. The numbers also match what you can derive from the amount of Prime or Safe Seachem suggests you use to neutralize bleach after recharging Purigen. Safe is only 3 times more cost effective than Prime when you correct the dosage.
  12. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    The reason I ask is because the recommended dose of Prime neutralizes 6.2 times more chloramine than Safe so if a single dose of Prime wasn't enough, a double dose of Safe would definitely not be enough.
  13. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Well, if you have chloramine, a contact time of 5 minutes and the use of activated carbon is required.
  14. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Are you trying to use it to remove chlorine from tap water?
  15. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Voice control sounds nice but at some point I might get a pet parrot...
  16. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    How much Safe do you use?
  17. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    My house thermostat is the same way. It's controlled by an app and if the server is too busy or something it won't work at all. I have to go to the thermostat itself to change any settings and its screen's backlight won't come on unless you touch it on one of the small virtual buttons (which are very hard to see without the backlight on). You would think it would light up if you touched any part of the touchscreen but no. Then I have to struggle with the terrible interface to actually change anything. Who designs these things?
  18. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Offline use is supposed to be possible but mine often just stops working because it can't connect to the server (even if my Internet is working). I don't trust mine. On several occasions it's failed to turn off as scheduled.
  19. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    I do think it's snobbery. I haven't seen any evidence that discus are particularly fragile and need massive daily water changes with RO. Meanwhile, the numbers coming from Stendker are what cichlids can easily tolerate: There's also nitrate/water change snobbery. On another forum, there's one fellow (who besides spewing out misinformation on a daily basis) that blames every illness on nitrate being >5 ppm and takes every opportunity to post pictures of his setup and low nitrates. In one instance, he suggested that someone whose fish had an obvious bacterial infection perform water changes to lower his nitrate levels (which were something like 10-15 ppm). I suggested treating the bacterial infection. He went with the water change advice and lowered his nitrate. Then the fish died. Gee, I guess it wasn't nitrate.
  20. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    BTW, people who do a lot of water changes should consider a heat exchanger to recover some of the heat from the water before sending it down the drain.
  21. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    I don't know what kind of boilers you use but in the US most have tanks and begin corroding from day one. I use cold water, fill a barrel, and heat it with aquarium heaters to avoid whatever might be in the hot water.
  22. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Boiler.
  23. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Do you have a tank water heater? Is it old?
  24. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    I've been able to buy it in the US without a prescription. People sometimes have trouble with clove oil and I suspect it's because they don't mix it with ethanol first.
  25. Coronal Mass Ejection Carl
    Here are the dissolved oxygen levels from my water change when refilling. The three red arrows roughly represent when water was low (~6"), medium (11"), and high (~17"). I wasn't able to reach a steady state oxygen level for the low water condition since the fish had spazzed out earlier and were hyperventilating. They hadn't recovered after some time and knowing how fish sometimes die if they overexert themselves, I turned on the oxygen concentrator for a bit.
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