test.tin

I find cardinals tend to have better personalities/ interesting behaviors compared to neons. My vote for cardinals

Thank you for the great suggestion. I was planning to add anubias once the fungus clears off the wood, but didn't think about having it be higher to poke out of the surface.

Hello everyone! Recently decided to come back to freshwater after taking a 2ish year hiatus to try out saltwater. As much as I enjoyed corals and saltwater fishes, I definitely missed having a planted tank. Decided to pick up a 7 gallon, 11x11x11 tank to start my journey. The hardscape is pretty simple, found a nice piece of wood and I broke it in half to get the shape I wanted. One of my favorite aquatic plant is this hydrocotyle verticillata that I had turned into a desk plant. I made sure to have the substrate and roots submerged the entire time, just in case I ever wanted to do a planted tank again. I gave the hydrocotyle a big trim and placed all the roots and cycled substrate on the bottom, covered with new substrate to hopefully speed up the cycling process. As you can see, a little hydrocotyle poked out already. Pretty excited since it's only been a week with water filled in. I'm still on the planning phase for what other plants I want. The round rocks are just there to hold the wood down, will remove them eventually. For stocking, I'm pretty excited to be able to put crystal red shrimps in the future. I've always wanted/loved them but have never gotten them due to having hard tap water. But thanks to trying out saltwater, I invested in a nice RODI system. Pretty excited to see how this tank differs due to using RO water compared to all my other previous tanks with hard tap water.

From my experience with neons, they tend to be pretty calm and non aggressive towards smaller creatures. Personally since they are already in a qt tank, I would just leave them in there to fatten/grow them up some more before adding them to your other tank.

When I use easy carbon, I like to fill a squirt bottle with all water. Ill pump one or two pumps of easy carbon into the squirt bottle. Then do a pretty large water change, so that the algae areas are exposed. Then I take the squirt bottle and spray where the algae is. Don't need to go crazy with the spray, as long as the areas you want is wet from the spray. Let it sit for a few mins. Then fill back up with water. Ill redo this every time I do a water change. Easy carbon degrades over time, so put new water and new easy carbon in the squirt bottle. But this is only a bandage to help handle the aglae, make sure you figure out the main problem for the algae. Maybe lower the light intensity, etc.

I think breeding might be difficult in that tank especially if you want to keep it low maintenance. I actually have the same all in one tank by UNS, when I test filled mine, the total volume I got was 5 gallons. I personally would just put 1 honey gourami and maybe a bunch of cherry shrimps. You can still breed but the bio load won't be too high.

Thank you so much!

If they just started to develop the white tip, then it's a sign they aren't getting enough calcium. Putting in cuttlebone is a good start. You can try feeding them blanched veggies that have calcium or specific food with calcium.

Hi everyone, I was browsing through offer up and ran across this post with a terrarium light that would look awesome for what I plan to set up. But I need help to identify to buy it. Thank you in advance!

That is weird that it doesn't even let you turn it on manually. I guess the downfall of my other timer is the same for this one too

Hey everyone, just wanted to ask members of the forum that has the kasa wifi timer. Lets say I set the kasa to turn on at 7am. If my internet is not on until 9am, does the kasa still follow through with the programing and turn on at 7am? I ask this because the last wifi timer I had will not follow the programing if there is no wifi, even though the program is set in the app and presumably stored on the timer.

Hello there! If you're getting yellowing and spots on leaves then its a sign you already needed fertilizers. Anubias are slow growers, so if they are showing signs now, it means its been needing additional nutrients for a while. Most likely your jungle val is using all the nutrients since it is a fast grower, not leaving much behind for the anubias Since your tank is understock, I would recommend you get a all in one fertilizer, like easy green. The good thing about easy green is that it provides your plant with all the nutrients, macro and micro nutrients. Once using easy green, you want your nitrate to sit around 20-50ppm. The reason is because in easy green, nitrate is used as an indicator since its easier to test than the other nutrients. So if you're sitting around 20-50ppm of nitrates, it means the other nutrients are gonna be in good range for your plants.

Def a good site to read and reread. You'll never know unless you try, you should def do a build journal. Im curious to see the result of a set up like that.

If you're planning to go very rich substrate next time, maybe try the ADA approach (lean dosing). On my next rescape, I am also planning to use a very nutrient rich substrate and will be trying lean dosing. Switching to a fertilizer that has no nitrate, I'm thinking about trying APT zero from dennis wong (2hr Aquarist).

That's super interesting to know, really wished that was printed on the bottle or said more. Very interesting thread you have created here Adam! Definitely gonna help me fine tune my dosing now that its not just a ball park guess.