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Found 11 results

  1. Is it recommended to add API Aquarium salt with every water change or add salt only for treatment? is there any cheaper version of API Aquarium salt?
  2. Hey, I have both finrot and popeye that I'm dealing with, I've read reviews on api melafix on the internat saying that it worked and some saying it didn't. I know on the thanksgiving stream @Cory said he never had success with it. I live in Canada so lots of meds are restricted, the only meds I can find are API Super Ick Cure and API Melafix and of course the basic aquarium salt. I have tried aquarium salt for these infections, it helped a bit for the popeye, but the finrot hasn't gotten any better. My question is do you guys think Melafix would clear up my probelms? Also is it plant safe? I have some plants in my QT tank because I'm setting up a new tank soon, and they were on sale for a very good price.
  3. So I'm starting to wonder if I'm using this kit correctly. how do you guys look at the tube after wards from the side or do you look at the bottom or top of the tubes. I might be over thinking this. so since i test realized i forgot to look at my results does the if you leave the test longer then 5 mins will that effect your results ??
  4. I know I know, Cory has done a video on this. But I am a numbers and charts person, so I wanted to offer some more data on this topic. I have a background in chemistry and I know a lot of you NERMS on here like this sort of detailed analysis, so here it goes. Once I saw the video, I thought it was genius! Of course! If you are in the ballpark, much better to use those quick test strips (which you will use more often than the liquid kit because they are so easy. As a reminder, you can see Cory's video here: Because I thought this was great info, I went out and bought some test strips to compliment my API test kit. Of course, like any info on the internet, I also wanted to test it. I did a quick test a few weeks ago and got very different results. Whoa! That's weird, and not what Cory's video showed! So today I sat down and did some more precise testing/recording numbers. For this experiment, we have to accept that the human eye just sucks at interpreting color accurately. If we wanted to get super precise numbers, we would want something like a spectrometer, but that's not financially realistic for the average person. (Doesn't mean I'm not looking 'em up on ebay after this...) I have two different tanks I tested this on, but only once each time. One is a planted 60 gallon community tank and the other is a 10 gallon snail tank. I try to keep the gH higher in the snail tank for shell health, so that measurement is particularly important. Both tanks are moderately/heavily planted. The snail tank is overstocked, but I'm pretty diligent about water changes. The Community tank is a little understocked, and please note that I administered some General Cure today to deworm, so that could potentially interfere with results. When I did the test, I had to break my bad habit of not shaking the API test kit for a full minute. You can categorize this under "I am smarter than the sum knowledge of all fishkeepers." arrogance. Surely, not shaking for a full minute couldn't make that big a difference, right? Well, I can get into my previous quick and dirty results, but yes, you need to shake for the full minute. I got very different nitrate results when doing this. Anyway, you can't test the API kit if you aren't going to use it according to the instructions. Please note that I DID NOT USE THE API TEST KIT FOR pH. I have a pH meter which I consider to be the most accurate option available, therefore I compared the test strip to the API kit on nitrate, nitrite, gH and kH. You can see the results below in chart and list form: OK, so what are we seeing? Well first we're seeing that my nitrate levels in my tank are WAY high and I need to fix it, but that's for another day. Within the community tank, everything is pretty much the same between Tetra and API. This is consistent with Cory's results. Now if we look at the Snail tank, we see some variation. Ph and nitrite are looking the same, but gH, kH, and most concerningly nitrate are showing differences. The difference in nitrate could be because of the logarithmic scale it uses to refer to color. Ever notice how the measurement chart jumps from 0, to 5, to 10, then 20, then 40, etc? It's a bigger and bigger difference with each color change on the chart. So if you have a very high concentration that you are reading, and you're having trouble reading it, your mistake matters more than if you were reading something closer to 5. (Ex. Is it 5 or 10? Eh, it's close. Is it 40 or 80? Whoa, big difference!) I did have trouble figuring out the color of the nitrate on the API test kit; I have included pictures of the results here so that others can give input, if you like. Please note that because I thought the API nitrate reading was between 40 and 80 ppm, I split the difference and called it 60ppm. I have no explanation for the difference in KH and GH readings. API results for Snail tank: Tetra test strip Snail tank results: OK so what does all of this mean? I think it means that if your tank is generally healthy and you are just doing regular water checks (once a week, once a month, etc) and you want a heads up on anything that might be an issue, you're probably ok using the Tetra test strips. But if you are having issues with something, you may want to try the API kit. BUT, I would argue that we don't really know which method is more accurate. Within the fish community, we sing the praises of the accuracy of the API Master test kit. But why? What are we comparing it to? Well, we have reports of the test strips going bad very easily, so that's one reason. But ideally, I would want to measure my water parameters with a mass spectrometer (this is me being a super nerd- it is a scientific instrument which gives you VERY accurate reports of concentration. Again, not realistic for the home hobbyist at all! But has anyone every tried it? Ever? Anywhere? I expect API did the testing, but those aren't exactly easy to look up. Why do we choose API as the best? I think it's worth considering. Tl;dr The API Master test kit has fairly similar results to the Tetra strips if you are measuring low concentrations (everything in your tank is going as expected,) but there can be major differences if you have something like nitrates very high. This is because it's tough for the human eye to read colors accurately. I have no explanation for the differences in kH and gH in one tank but not the other. Also, consider that we don't necessarily know that the API Master kit is the most accurate. Everyone says it is, but what are we comparing it to? Thanks for coming to my TED talk. lol I don't work as a chemist anymore so sometimes it's just nice to get this out of my system. I hope some folks find this helpful/interesting.
  5. I lost the sheet to tell me what this means can someone help me out.
  6. We recently lost an albino cory catfish, a white molly, and a danio in my 55 gallon freshwater tank (their bodies had some lesions and red lines on them) I thought my ghost shrimp were attacking them and eating them since I found the shrimp eating their dead bodies. I had my water tested at the local pet store and they said my water levels/readings were all really good. I noticed one of my black skirt tetras had a white dot on its nose so I assumed I should treat for ick, which I did. Then I noticed the same fish was losing its back tail, and a neon tetra was missing its top lip. I started the next day with API Pimafix and Melafix. Its tail was still rapidly disappearing next day (fin rot), so I added EM Erythromycin to the treatment. The neon tetra died and so did my black skirt tetra (the fish basically dissolved into nothing). Now I'm going to complete the 7 day treatment with Pimafix, Melafix, and 4 day treatment of EM Erythromycin to ensure all the other fish are ok. My question is, do these medicines rid the entire tank (gravel, decor, live plants, water) of fungus, bacteria, whatever disease is in there? Or do those only treat living fish bodies? Do I need to use a parasite treatment or other medicine? How soon should I wait to introduce new fish? I had all those other fish for 6 weeks +, but added some small neon tetras a week prior to the few that died (assuming they were carrying a disease even though none of the new guys died). The only other thing that's different is I started feeding my fish freeze dried blood worms, could those possibly carry disease? Pic attached, sick tetra on left, "healthy" on right.
  7. Its been my experience that is does not. Has anyone had success with it?
  8. I am confused when reading the results of my testing kit. My API reads as follows (remember, I don't think it is done cycling) PH 7.4, PH high range 8.4, AMMONIA .20, NITRITE 2.0, NITRATE 5.0. MY TEST STRIPS: PH 7.2, CLORINE 0, HARDNESS 300, NITRITE 10, NITRATE 20, AMMONIA 0. I tested twice with API. I'm not sure how to compare the two or if it is even necessary. I am really confused about API high range ph ( it has never been that high) and nitrites and nitrates. Should I do a water change or wait and let it continue to cycle? My betta seems to be very happy. I would like to add 6 cherry barbs but hesitate to do anything until I can make sense of my testing.
  9. So I saw a FB post from a fella who used API Algaefix in his planted tank, and said it did wonders without killing the plants. It being FB, naturally some controversey ensued and the post dropped off the map before I could form an informed opinion. Meanwhile, curiosity got the better of me and I tried it in a planted nursery tank. By golly, two doses later, all the hair algae is gone! No noticeable side-effects on fish or plants. Most of the green dust algae is still present, which I actually like. So what has your experience been? And is there any reason not to use it for occasional hair algae suppression? Other than algae, is it detremental to any plant or animal species? I'm especially concerned about my valisnaria, as I accidentally killed off a bunch with a hydrogen peroxide treatment earlier this year. And I don't want to accidentally harm my fish. TIA!
  10. I have an issue with my tendentious where shaking the nitrate bottle just isn't feasible for me, I will suffer all week with pain in my arm now from it. I actually went to test strips for a long time, now I'm finally out and down just to my master test kit, which I really want to use, but I can't seem to get myself to as it is self-inflicted pain. I'm really looking for suggestions here. I'm watching my nitrates a lot as I have a lot of newly established tanks, and I need to keep an eye on it to make sure I get the right water change schedule and volume going right. Any suggestions? Should I just give up and deal with test strips (I know they aren't as accurate, but I just don't know what else to do - and tbh, I've not noticed that much of a difference in them when I compare the liquid kit).
  11. I can't tell if I have too much, or too little, or what. According to the phosphate liquid test from API, I have 2 ppm phosphates in my tap water. The test registers the same in all my tanks, regardless of my feeding or fert dosing (some tanks get flakes more than others, some get live baby brine, some get more repashy, frozen, etc. -- some tanks get easy green, others just get potassium and iron). I even have a bag of Phosguard in my 90G filter as an experiment. It's been running with the phosguard for about 45 days, with no change in phosphate levels. I've had issues with a couple different plants, like dwarf sagg and hygrophila, that look like phosphate deficiency (green spot algae on yellowing leaves), but test shows 2ppm still, which by all Google indications is fine if not high. So, how accurate is that API test really? Is it even testing for the right thing, or is the phosphate in my tap water not "absorbable" or something? I did do a control test on distilled water and got zero phosphates.
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