nabokovfan87

For floaters, Guppysnail above had mentioned only submerging them for 1 hour, then let them float. This is what I would recommend for this situation.

My 75G stand has 6 legs. so there is a design perk to what you're running in some situations. Let me show you how I'd shim it. Black part is the actual shim and placement. Kind of an annoyance, but get it sorted now and you'll have peace of mind moving forward.

Can you check the surface of the stand in both directions as well as the tank in both directions (fwd/back, left/right) on both sides of the tank? You probably need to shim up the left side of the stand.

First, welcome to the forums. Whenever the power goes out I like to add an airstone for at least 24-48 hours just to help the fish recover. It's stressful I would imagine. Oto and some plecos can be sensitive to temperature and oxygenation. Can you share a bit about the setup as well as any test results (including temperature) for your tank. Why did you start treating for ick? did you see white spots on any of the fish? Does the tank currently have a filter?

Very cool. Can't wait to see some pictures!

I think your best bet might be the garden section, but whatever it is you want to find.... I would start to look for "cover" for the rams. They will feel more secure and any aggression issues you have withe the species in the tank could be reduced long term. It helps them set territories and stuff too. That wood section in the middle of your tank is awesome, it's typically how I try to have cover for my fish that like it. I also will take rocks and lean them over on the wood or use the rocks to prop up the wood as well. I don' know if you've seen Dean's video on his setup. I can't imagine you're trying to breed the ram's but just raise them. I will share it just to give you an idea of what they prefer if that helps at all for your situation. They tend to like cover on their backs / sides so they feel like they can protect their section a bit easier.

I try to leave 3+ leaves on each bunch. This end is the direction of growth and the "healthiest" plant. You will probably get some Y's on the parts you cut. It does tend to happen for some varieties and that's why you get the weird shapes like you're dealing with. When I propogate mine, I try to get a good amount on either cut, but what I tend to start with is figuring out direction, branches, and checking the oldest part of the rhizome for unhealthy spots. That tends to be where you get the rot and sometimes removing that section really helps.

Very sorry @Minanora I know how much you were looking forward to them arriving to you. You're not "crazy" for being upset. I think we all can relate to the emotions you're going through.

I tested the tap water, 50 ppm GH, compared to normally 400 ppm. Not sure why that's happening, but that's definitely not fun or easy on my tank. I cleaned the breeder box out because of the mulm and leftovers at the bottom. It sticks to the moss and it just starts to fungus and it's not great. I clean it daily or every other day when I see it start to get bad. I assume a layer is good for them to have to graze on, but I generally try to dump in food for them to have fresh. Probably a sign that I keep overfeeding them. SO. bad news. I had the initial batch of fry, that is now a few weeks old. I have some other fry that are slightly smaller but are from the same batch. They look like about a week younger, but they were born at the same time. I had the latest batch of eggs that produced another 30+ fry. I added them to the breeder box. I see 1, maybe 2 left from that new batch. I would hope some of them swam out of the gate and are in the tank. I can't say that's the case, but that would be "best case" for some of them that were following the flow of the water. What likely happened was the bigger fry ate the wigglers. I'll tag this up to my own inexperience raising fry, but I thought they'd be ok together. 😞 When I raised the first batch I had a piece of filter floss in the gate so they couldn't swim through, but that also dangerously raises the water level for corydoras because the air gap is gone in most cases and it's easy for them to get stuck somewhere the lid interfaces with the container. That's how I lost one from the first batch. Why the water level needs to be so tight against the lid I really don't understand the design. One little chunk of food in the gate or moss and the thing is right on the cusp of overflowing. (not to mention how it's a pain to get level because of the adjustment they use that isn't the one the seachem tidal version's worm gear)

Feel better. 😞

Looks like a perfect panda playground. 🙂

Probably! Kind of crazy how big the tail is on the video. You have the "whale tail"/long fin variety and it was fun to see that difference. For the record, baby pandas are literally the best thing. Too adorable.

Repashy works extremely well. Especially the community one and soilent green. The bottom scratcher is a bit chunky, but works too. I just used a pipette and mixed a dash of powder. Yeah, environment has always done wonders for me. I've had the pandas in a tank for a long time. Added moss and then got fry non-stop. When you say "the hikari ones" do you mean the wafers? One of my biggest issues is finding pellets that aren't micro size, that they will enjoy, and that are good ingredients. In lieu of "fish meal" and potentially contaminates from whatever that could be (shark, mercury, etc) I was leaning towards shrimp, krill, or just something that is very specific about what is in the package. Hopefully that makes sense. I have just been trying to pay attention slightly more with what I'm feeding. The bug bites seems like a good option overall in comparison to other foods I have looked into. I am "fine" if something says fish meal, clearly fish eat fish, but I am just trying to evaluate that and specifically for my corydoras understand what they want and need. I have always been heavy handed when it comes to spirulina, and had to do a double take when I saw the fish meal as the #1 ingredient in the spirulina stuff. Things like that.... That's what I'm trying to figure out some improvements on my next food order.

Mine definitely don't eat algae. If I ever had to guess... They would eat brown diatoms. They tend to stick to the wood and pretty much never leave it. 1000% 😂

@Guppysnaili Will salvinia be ok in an RR treatment? Is that possible with floating plants? @BBlueccan you take a photo of the things you're seeing out of water?

This was recently clarified for me. The stream of bubbles is definitely damage of some kind and not pearling. 😞 Maybe I've never seen my plants do it.... Got them to flower, 😂 Anyways, I wanted to mention it just in case anyone who was confused by seeing this in their tank. There is a few threads here on it but I remembered this one and seeing the video and photos and stuff. Pearling, bubbles on the leaves that tend to stick to the leaves surface. Damage+gas release is what we see in the image above. Mmiller was totally spot on! Now I have to figure out why my plants were doing it and damaged so badly... 🤔

Some repeated issues glueing my anubias has led to a few rotten rhizomes. Pressure, meaning that when the glue is on the wood, that is sploodges outward and adheres is something that keeps the plant attached for me. I usually end up with something half the diameter of a dime, but whenever the glue is too thick, it usually doesn't hold and the plant wiggles. Great advice. Not a joke. I need a case of glue at this point with the amount of moss I have to glue. I bought 4 tubes and three were rock hard one was half solid. Reglued everything today, propagated a bunch of new moss yesterday, definitely need more. So.... Without being EU and having some of the products in the video. On a large scale wood scape, what is the "shortcut" to get a lot of moss glued in place? Yeah. Have to "plan ahead" pretty hard with that one. And even then, sometimes it doesn't sit just right and the glue is curing. I definitely don't recommend trying to do it with moss. 🙂

Very sorry for your issues and loss. I looked up whirling disease and it looks like it's specific to salmon and trout species. I don't think the corydoras can contract that, but I could be wrong. It's a parasite of sorts, no known cure so I would lean towards salt+UV if you're certain that's what you're dealing with. As far as other possibilities, was it crushed by hardscape or did it run into the glass lid (or wall) and hurt itself? Common things that might be relevant, PH, Temp, tank photos, etc. Are you seeing any issues with the other fish or in the tank? Edit: watching a video where it mentioned that disease and linking it to a thiaminase issue with the food. (Mussels, etc)

Well done @mountaintoppufferkeepertthat's a huge accomplishment.

Definitely tough. Maybe order the spare parts from the website in the color you want? I imagine there is a fish safe paint you can use in the water, but I have heard from Cory and others that fish will eat that layer off. You also might run into issues with sensitive species doing that as well. I would just get some tall plants and try to grow out the back or use a moss wall style on the back wall.

I would love a tank with 50-100 little corydoras that happen to look like nurse sharks 🙂 .

I just wait until CO2 is done for the day. Similar to those mentioned above, 1 hour before lights out, CO2 is cut off. so I'll have the CO2 off at 4 PM or so. do my WC after dinner to avoid any issues with changing the PH or wasting all the CO2 dosing efforts.

Here is some additional guides and resources that might be interested to you. This would help in terms of "how" when you're thinking about your design. https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/injection-molding-basics/ https://www.basilius.com/designing-for-injection-molding/

@JoeQ are you running CO2 during the siesta period?