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I may be way off base but it sort of resembles some type of freshwater bryozoan colony

Java ferns are great I’m not sure if they have red varieties

I use airline suction cups and put the stem end just above the gravel (too lazy to plant) it will plant itself. The main thing with wisteria....give it water and fish waste and it will grow out of control it doesn’t care what you do to it lol. If a live leaf breaks off and floats about it will grow roots seen it happen soooo many times.

Mystery snails need food. They cannot survive on algae and left over fish food. They need veggies. Steamed green beans are a favorite of all mine. You can use NO SALT ADDED canned. Either French cur or open them longways so they can get the meat. I weigh mine down in their food dish with plant weights. You can weigh them down with any aquarium safe object. Broccoli stems kale cucumber zucchini mine also love baby carrots all steamed. They also need algae wafers for vitamins and balanced diet. They eat ALOT. try 1 green bean and you will see it will be gone in 12 hours once they realize it is food. Pet stores never tell people about this stuff don’t feel bad. They are good fish food cleanup crew and maybe mine are just spoiled or lazy but they do terrible at algae control. also if you have ever used a copper based medicine it will leach out for years is my understanding which will kill them. I have zero knowledge of ghost shrimp care only neocaridina hope that helps...

Pennsylvania...but there are only 2 LFS within 2 hrs of me outside of Petco/PetSmart

Got it thanks

Ok what is a share icon? And when I found the YouTube video I did not see a web address link for that site....yup I’m that bad with internet stuff...sigh ....

That’s cool I never knew what their actual purpose was.

@Krillan1rforgive my lack of tech knowledge but here are some good ones by ACO to help you out...I can figure out how to take screenshots ROFL

I’m old and can’t figure out how to link that ACO filter upgrade for hobs video can you link it for this person to see.

Yeah I’ve never tried to run a tank on just sponges but after that video I’m giving it a try. My stock likes fast current in most of my tanks but the new one is just male guppy fry and snails galore so I went for it so far a medium and nano I had are preforming terrific

Filters provide surface area and oxygen bigger isn’t better. Stuff the compartment with coarse sponge and you will get more bioload filtration capacity (gallon ratings mean little)than upgrading to a bigger one stick a coarse sponge prefilter on the intake and it will supercharge your filter. Aq coop has a video that’s rather good describing how to upgrade your current filter for $10 or less

I hated every sponge filter I ever met even rigging them with sandstone airestones...until I met coop coarse sponge now I love them.

Thinking about this I want to add. Bare bottom is just fine no worries. But for the stocking level you have you simply may not have enough surface for BB to grow. Put something in there a big rock a big plastic plant dollar store pot scrubbers weighted down ugly but effective more plants anything just more surface area perhaps.

No worries @Krillan1r we have all been here at one point for one reason or another. I don’t want to assume anything about your knowledge level. You do have a bacterial bloom. This is not your beneficial Bacteria it is heterotrophic. While not directly harmful to your fish it greatly depletes oxygen and stresses your fish. Go old school fish in to finish your cycle it used to be the standard done right every one will be fine. Add 2-3 extra air stones or at least one it will distress your fish. Keep your nitrite at .25. Do not drop it lower you need some to cycle. Don’t let it go above .5. It takes 4 weeks for the bacteria to grow that converts nitrite to nitrate there is no speeding it up. Bottle stuff does not work read up on studies done by actual scientists. Be patient and consistent. Like I said back in the day....yup I’m old and love it...there was no other option. Please ask if I can help. If I have overstepped I’m so sorry. I love to see folks succeed in the most rewarding hobby. I’m sure there are thousands who disagree or have other opinions but I’m old and this always worked for me and my exotics vet agrees.

You said nitrite is your tank fully cycled

Awesome thanks. It has been there forever. It never grows more never changes. Knock on wood I have never had an algae problem in this tank of anytype outside of some green spot on the glass once in a blue moon. I’ll have to read up on it. It’s just been there so long I consider it hard scrape decor now ROFL

I place large smooth river rocks in all my tanks to grow my nerite algae I can never keep enough of the kind he enjoys. I rotate the rocks to his tank to ensure a good food source for him. I tried over feeding the tank ONCE just to grow algae. Had a brown diatom bloom like I’ve never seen thick coat on everything. My single olive nerite Nemo DEMOLISHED the diatoms in a week my tank sparkled. The bladders polished the plants in two weeks. The mystery’s went nuts for the extra fishy food. They are not good algae cleaners.

I did not know what group to put this in cause I do not know what it is. Long established tank this stuff has been there for eons since about 3 months into this tanks life . It grew then stopped has never changed nothing eats it it does not bother me I’m not looking to rid myself of it I have just always been curious and never seen anything like it possible algae possibly wood sap? It is hard and spiked in texture it doesn’t scratch off with fingernail...never tried to hard thought it looked interesting. Manzanita wood boiled 3 hours. Rested for a week or two I don’t remember exactly with daily scalding hot water changes. wanting to know is just an itch I’ve never been able to scratch. Thanks

Don’t know if this helps but I had a guppy go through this. After a week she swam on her side at the top of the tank for a week. I put her in a shallow 2 gallon with minimal bubbles to reduce all current with a well established sponge filter and fed her from my fingers. It took almost a month before she was close to normal. A month and a half later and she healed and is back to normal. I did give her Maracyn to prevent any bacterial infection from reduced immunity due to stress. Time was the key for her. Human women struggle to pop out one baby can’t imagine 35. Sorry I hope someone else can give you a fix for this but sometimes they can recover. So I may not have helped but maybe gave you some hope. Livebearers I use wondershell for hardness or api liquid calcium and epsom salt

I just put Pothos in mine last night because of a post I seen on how. The research I did ...because the Pothos have access to unlimited co2 they can really suck all the nutrients outs of the tank. This is why I wanted them to start with and they look awesome. I just bought some easy green as I have never fertilized due to heavy bioload. One tank was starting to show consistently 5 nitrate instead of my norm 15. I am watching to see the Pothos affect and plan to add easy green if needed. Sorry maybe someone more experienced with Pothos knows more.

Definitely more coop pads no am or phos I try to never add any media that needs replacing unless a need arises. I would also add some coop pad for at least a month and leave the cartridge in until new sponge is seeded. Then remove the cartridge and add more sponge so you don’t disrupt too much at one time.

I’m an easy route kinda person. I would use caps and glue moss or java fern to cover the holes.

I use homemade shrimp lollipops or you can buy glass garden shrimp lollipop the flock to them at the front of the tank and are reluctant to leave Going very slowly I use a 3D net and gently scoop several at a time off the lollipop. It works like a charm.

Here is an article from aquatic Veterinary Services : my exotics vet has said the same hope this helps I adore my guppies. My exotics vet also said NOT to suspect worms unless extreme weight loss White fish poop is a poop with no food in it. Most gastrointestinal systems work very similarly, fish, humans and other pets included. Your gut is responsible for absorbing nutrients and getting rid of wastes and undigestible material. In order to help move things along, our guts are lined with mucus-producing cells to help things slide through. Without this lubrication, you’d never be able to pass a single poop, swell up and die. Fish have the exact same cells in their guts! And although freshwater fish cannot become constipated (sorry, but we’ve already been over this – you’ll have to take your complaints up with osmosis), they still need a little extra help moving things towards the exit. Most of the time, you’ll barely notice this mucus coating because of what your fish eats. The mucus is stretched thin and you’ll see a mush similar in color to the pellets you feed. If your fish has not been eating, you will only see the mucus. This is the “stringy, white fish poop” in fish. Is this a sign of disease? Not really, it only means your fish hasn’t eaten. This may only be a few hours or a few days. Many fish, especially tropical fish, are used to foraging throughout the day. If they’re only fed a few times a day, some of the fecal movements may have food, others may not. And this is normal! A lot of those internet diagnosticians will recommend fasting fish when they are sick, which sometimes, isn’t necessarily a good idea. When fish are sick, they need nutrients to swim and run their immune system. Yes, some diseases may require limiting food, but that decision is for your veterinarian, not “helpful” strangers on the internet. Yes, the “white fish poop” does look a lot like an internal parasite. But unless your fish have come into contact with any wild-caught fish, invertebrates or unsanitized décor items, the chance of them getting an internal parasite is slim to none. In the 7 years we have been in business, seeing over 500 clients, we have diagnosed it three times. All of these cases involved wild-caught fish. The biggest different between an empty fecal cast and a parasite is that one is alive and the other is not. If your fish’s poop decides to get up and dance, preferably against the current, you may have something to worry about. Since they are so light and easily pushed around by water flow, some fecal casts can give the appearance of movement, but watch them closely. If necessary, pull it out of your tank using a turkey baster and put it in a clear glass or cup. In the still water, it will be easier to tell if it can move on its own. If it’s still swimming, despite being in a cup of calm water, that would be a parasite. So, let’s put the “stringy white poop” clinical sign away. Yes, it is a clear indication your fish is not eating, but you should know that already if you watch them during feeding time. There is no medication we can give you to get rid of it, and it is a NORMAL function of your fishes’ digestion. And never withhold food unless directed by your aquatic veterinarian.