Lennie

To me, it is either a group or none when it comes to otos. When it comes to any schooling fish, it is commonly said at least 6-10. When it comes to otos, this is usually being ignored for different reasons, the main one being it is hard to supplement their diet naturally. It comes to my mind, do we keep our schooling fish because we can feed them, or because this is how they want to be kept in accordance with their nature. When it comes to our benefit of having their algae eating capability, we seem to ignore their need of schooling. Keeping otos in low numbers is not really different then keeping any schooling fish in low numbers. It is like suggesting to keep 2 barbs or 1 corydora. Otos are really social fish being in schools of thousands in nature. Rachel O leary says they are supposed to be visible, grazing all over, and she recommends 10-15 or more. So I think an ideal school of ottos would crowd your tank, to answer your question. They wont help your hair algae problem anyway. I would pass otos. You may want to get amano shrimp instead for that tank size to get any potential benefit in terms of hair algae.

I don't have access to any, but from what I remember, based on @Chick-In-Of-TheSea, @Guppysnail and @beastie's experiences, soilent green seems to be community favorite and community formula is not accepted as well as soilent green. They may share their own experience If you are short on budget and wanna try one, I guess soilent green might be a good choice to try

btw, I forgot to mention, I am not sure how good "neocaridina parameters range" term would work as Neocaridinas can do well in very wide ranges. It sounds a bit confusing. This is what a very reputable shrimp breeder guy has for his tiger shrimp here: PH 6.50 - 7.0 Tds 250-300 ms ( 190-200 ppm ) Gh 7-10 Kh 0-2 Temp:20-23C

Hey LDZ, If you loved them and willing to keep them, keep them in a low light tank. They seem to be not blind, but has visual impairment. So they seem to do well in a low light environment. Maybe lower your light, add lots of plants, especially floating plants so they have a better sight in a dimmed tank Here I'm sharing more detailed research I came by: "Melanie Kirchbeck, on the other hand, in a histological and comparative study(Kirchbeck, et. al., 2019) found that the eyes of OE and normal tigers alike had all the necessary features required for vision, i.e., lamina, medulla, rhabdome and lobula, respectively, medulla externalis, m. internalis and m. terminalis, as well as the crystal body. Compared to animals that live predominantly in the dark and rely rather less on their visual properties, neurophilic lamina and crystal body are usually rather weak to absent, but this was not the case in the OE. A shrimp eye has so-called ommatidia, i.e. several "single eyes", which are arranged in a cone shape. Depending on the incident light, there is a differently well-developed pigment layer between them - the melamine, which serves to shield strong light conditions, so that the shrimp can still see "sharply" and is not blinded. The absence of this intraommatidial pigment in the OE tigers was conspicuous, although individual functionless remnants of it were noticeable in the study. Thus, animals with Orange Eyes do not have the natural light protection in the eyes like other shrimp. This therefore results in glare when they are exposed to a strong light source. Although the overall image is still recognizable to them, they lack the ability to see it sharply. Conversely, however, they are able to see better at dusk and in the dark, because the residual light has a better effect on all the individual eyes and enables sharper vision. M. Kirchbeck therefore came to the conclusion that OE shrimps do have a visual problem, but that this can be positively influenced in the aquarium by dimmed aquarium lighting." https://www.garnelio.de/en/blog/shrimp/hollow-eyes-orange-eyes-handicap-or-blemish Also, I didn't know about the orange eyes and eyesight issues. Thank you for letting me know.

Are we sure this is a gold laser cory? Looks more of a green laser to me. Gold lasers are really bright gold/yellow color. Healthy fish can deal with a lot of stuff as long as it is not extreme or super sudden. They probably face such temp change during the day in their nature too. I wouldn't worry much myself

hey, you can check Aquarium Designer too on steam. If you want something like a survival/base building game, you can check Subnautica. Not exactly an aquarium game, but very related to underwater

Here are some pics from my tank/breeding setup!

Yes! @Guppysnail has some insane looking bully pair rn. Im excited for their babies too 😍 even if I will never be able to get them red lizards can be a lil fragile. They were the only fish I had a single loss after introducing them to my established tank. I know @CJs Aquatics also had a loss. We thought maybe they are a bit fragile until they settle in a new tank. maybe a better idea to introduce them second rather than first

Thank you Colu That brings a question on my mind. You know Sera Baktotabs are directly sold as antibiotic food. It is also kind of a broad spectrum antibiotic right, but a different kind, Nifurpirinol? Is Kanaplex the specific antibiotic that isnt absorbed well inside the body? Can nifurpirinol be absorbed well, or else why is it being sold as a food form by Sera 🤔 Is this a good substiture for Kanaplex overall? I'm asking this because Baktotabs is much easier for me to source than Kanaplex. We dont have Maracyn here. Directly taken the following from Sera's website: "Food tablets against bacterial infections The easily digestible and particularly tasty food tablets for freshwater and marine fish quickly and safely combat bacterial infections such as bacterial dropsy (fish show symptoms such as slimy feces, bloated belly, protruding scales and bulging eyes). This special food must be fed exclusively until the fish have recovered entirely." https://www.sera.de/us/product/freshwater-aquarium/sera-bakto-tabs/

There are many fish that to be sold under the SAE name but there is only one true SAE. Are you sure you got the true SAE? Here I explained it to my best knowledge before. The SAE pics seem to be down for some reason: This is a juvenile sae: Grey color, only two whiskers on mouth, the black stripe goes to the end of the tail I have a trio, mine are very active since I got them as tiny babies, all over the driftwood, plant leaves and rock surfaces looking for algae, but always swimming not hanging on somewhere really. They start to be lazier when they start growing. Also do you mean attaching to a glass or anything, like otos? Because they don't have the sucker mouth. Can yours be CAE?

Hey guys, Especially @Odd Duck and @Colu and whoever is interested in/knowledgeable about medicines. There is something I don’t understand about Kanaplex, and I wanted to ask here so maybe it is any help to anyone who sees this. I have been seeing a lot of conflicting info being stated about using kanaplex online. some say it dissolves in the water well and fish take it through gills. Some say it is better to mix with focus and feed it as a food, especially in internal problems that might be triggering bacterial infection causing ending up as a dropsy sendrome. Some say it is not absorbed well by the gut. And so on. so my question is: is dosing the water column general best option? Is there any specific occasions where dosing the water column or feeding in food should be preferred instead? I would appreciate if you guys can provide some clarity. Thank you! P.S: @Guppysnail I couldn’t be sure whether to post this here or to diseases. As it is some sort of a discussion, I started it here. Please change its location if you think it does not belong here :)

One adult mystery snail should be sufficient to keep cycle going in a 10g. They have a big bioload. As commercial food you can feed your snail hikari crab cuisine and repashy. You can offer veggies and see what it likes. Broccoli, grean beans, spinach, collard greens, carrot, pumpkin, zucchini, sweet potatoes, Peas, etc. give them a try and see what it likes. Peel everything you can, wash them good, get organic stuff, avoid pesticides, salt or additives. Blanch them to make them softer for consuming and it helps with sinking. Uncycled tank is also harmful to a snail just like it is dangerous to a fish. Probably more than the food you cut bcoz there is a tiny bit of copper to be fair. Best you can do is lightly feed your snail until you see no ammonia and nitrite and only nitrates. Then you can increase your snail’s portions to normal, if it seems fine, yoh can slowly stock your tank

Those kongo tetras tho. How beautiful

How big are your water changes? Approximately what % ?

Well, In my 7 shrimp tanks, I tried 4 type of leaves ( catappa, beech, fig and oak) and alder cones. If its sole option, maybe they go for alder cones. I personally haven't seen them prioritizing alder cones more than a driftwood 🤷🏼‍♂️If it's on their way, they pick around and move on. In my experience if given variety, especially catappa leaves, they prefer catappa leaves over anything I tried. I wanna try mulberry to see if it will compete the spot of catappas.

That sexing part is not correct at 1:40. That is siphon not penis Left side- siphon Right side- penis.

I am very sorry to hear that. I was as excited to witness her change dah by day. Im soo glad she spent her last times wkth you and under your care. Let me assure you, bettas are indeed on a very bad spot I think. Ive lost some of mine to very weird stuff. In fact at some point it was either this or that point. Like one of my males had a tumor growth on its head. Then it following weeks he had dropsy. Like… you understand me. you can perfect your care but they are genetically so weak and it is super hard to find healthy ones bcoz they are mostly being bred for their color and fin structure, not healthy genetics. That is why I am trying to avoid naming and personal contact with my bettas and not planning to get any more in the future. It devastates me. I hope Sunflower finds peace wherever she is. (I named her like that on my head :,) ). Thank you for providing her a good care and home

I have borneo loach and they are %99 of the time are on glass or rock/driftwood. Cories are basically almost always on the bottom. I wouldnt worry about borneo sucker really

I have 5 males in that tank all have the same problem. I already have 9 guppy tanks. I can spare the males to a QT, I have 3 free tanks on hand, but it won't be a problem solving issue in the long term I guess as guppies basically have babies every month >_> idk

Update: Increased the salt amount in the tank and applied a course of kanaplex. No difference on the tails, still lots of split ends 🤷🏼‍♂️ @Odd Duck @Colu

I wouldnt go for montecarlo. It's not really dying, but not really carpeting either 🤷🏼‍♂️ I have a lot of budget lights on hand, otherwise it would be extremely costy to light 26 tanks. I try to have good lights for my display tanks only

I named my gold mystery and blue mystery snails Rick and Morty. Sorry for your loss. As your Morti (kinda like Morty, ey?) passed away ( RIP), maybe you can name the blue crayfish Rick to remind of him? :')

@Guppysnail when you wanna end the bill: 🤪😄🤣 I've only tried Tropical's Aquasoil and I'm happy with it. If that's an option you consider. My kh from tap is pretty high, around 20, so it couldnt really make any changes on my kh and ph to be fair. Has been a while since I didnt check it but the last time I checked the lowest I've seen was around 13 if I'm not mistaken.

To be honest, I wouldn't go for it again personally, because plants are not cheap. I tried and ain't happy with the result after month still. And my tank is only 25 cm high. hope it works for you if you try