xXInkedPhoenixX

@NanoNano @Lauren A I have heard some concern over their vision and wondered that too. SO FAR, Spark has excellent vision, in fact, her glowing green eyes are even easier to follow where she is spotting things than my previous Bettas. I have been finger training her and hoop training her and she does very well following along. I hope she maintains her vision. I use feeding rings in all my tanks simply because if I didn't the aggitation (even as low as it is in her tank) would send most of the food to the bottom of the tank. It's also beneficial because ALL my fish know where to go when it's feeding time. Spark (my GloBetta) likes the attention of getting fed by hand though, so a lot of the time I'm finger feeding her, then I put my finger and the rest of her food over in the feeding ring and she goes over to the corner and finishes her food. However, repetition of this sort will only help her in the future if indeed her vision diminishes over time. Like all my fish she is getting a variety, specialty Betta Bug Bites, freeze dried Tubifex, frozen blood worms, community flakes, and I'm starting to try Repashy- so far she's mostly spit that out. Ha!

Hi. Not much to tell from what you have so far, happen to have any pics of the tank now, then and maybe of the sick fish so we can see what you saw? That might help diagnose what may be going on. What are you using for filtration, chemicals if any, lights, cleaning, anything that might give a more complete picture to help.

Today Immaculate enjoyed a buoyancy test with the red root floaters, after working up an appetite we visited right topside of tank for a bite of cucumber. Still inexplicably the only baby in the tank little one is growing up fast and beautiful.

I know they can be controversial for some, I came about mine accidentally (story on my profile). I LOVE her. And she's beautiful without the blacklight.

Hi. I have the same plant (though I'm not sure about the "mini" version), I run a low tech set up and got the plant in a "bonus" with order of others so I just plopped them in. I've seen posts from other members that they're not at all easy to grow and may require "high tech" set ups, most websites say: Moderate to high lighting and co2 for optimal growth. Mine are 4 months old now and I've actually had to move them once but they haven't died yet and grown a little.- they were just tiny stems. I pretty much plan to expect they don't stay or if they do they'll be very small. I personally don't use ferts and the tank they're in has Caribsea substrate. The biggest one is only just under 3" which is only a little more than what it was when I got it, just a little "fluffier".

It's because when they are bigger they have this uncanny ability to stay still for so long it's almost like they've melted into the background.... ...just like baby ducks....

I like this old school design too, it really makes the fish pop in my opinion it's like visiting a public aquarium. Had one of these down the street from me, just prior to the virus outbreak it had shut down for "remodelling" but has not opened since. I suspect they are gone forever which is a shame, it was one of 3 in my area and in my estimation the best one.

Hi @Nayoni I am so very sorry about your tanks, what a tragedy. I've never treated popeye so bear with me on that, but I have treated Ich and have been successful. My recommendation there is to continue a parasitic treatment until all signs of any are gone (the rubbing/bouncing you described). My understanding of popeye is that it can be caused by parasites, bacteria and/or fungus so that seems rather bleak doesn't it. I'm going to guess that in your case it's probably parasitic AND bacterial- I'm going to further guess whatever it is your friend did caused something bacterial which raised the stress in your tanks causing immune systems to drop and the outbreak of Ich or whatever parasite you might be fighting. Treat your tanks also with appropriate doses of aquarium salts to help both of those things. I would probably change water every day in small increments before redosing any meds or salts. That would be my gameplan anyway. I was compelled to say something, hopefully there will be others with ideas. I wish you a whole lot of luck. 😞

Ah yes, sounds like you got your bioload issue straightened out for now. Sorry you had those losses. Hopefully from this point forward you won't have anymore problems. Adding plants always helps that. 🙂 You are welcome for the help. When you're ready you should post pics! 🙂

I would be nervous too adding a buffer like that because it's not a long term solution. What about the other ways of lowering ph? They also happen to be good for shrimp, driftwood, indian almond leaves or similar, something with tannins that will naturally lower it and also be beneficial for the tank overall.

In reading the ACCR dosage page on Fritz's website a quarter teaspoon aka 1.25mg is probably fine as it says you can dose up to 5x the dosage to remove greater ammounts of ammonia than 1.0ppm

What seems to be the issue in your tank?

Well just doing very QUICK research they do similar things BUT I see ACCR claims not to deplete oxygen levels which is beneficial as overuse of Prime (which I use and have never had issue with) CAN do.

Yes 1.25 mg is correct.

You might have to consider your substrate volume too I've never used ACCR so not sure if you can overdose.

So it would be a quarter teaspoon. Like breaking up a dollar, 4 quarters=1 dollar.

Been watching you struggle with this bowl since it's first "fail". Bleaching, it'd be yet more work but may be the only option ultimately. Such a bummer. You wouldn't think an 11g bowl would be such a problem. My 5g sure, but this makes no sense.

Your bowl seems cursed my friend. I had a 5 gallon tank like that and I just tossed it. Would be a shame if that had to happen though, the bowl is awfully pretty.

Hope he pulls through for you.

@Fish Folk well and that all makes a lot of sense because when you run higher temps medicating for Ich they tell you to add aggitation and air stones- hence I would think the same would be true if you kept a tank at those temps all the time. AND @Acara Mom if you look at what @Fish Folk says is a ram breeding tank I can see that most of the plants in there even including the swords are narrow leaf plants. I'm wondering if my weak theory that they disperse heat better has any teeth to it.

@Acara Mom It wouldn't surprise me to know hotter tanks have more plant issues. I run low tech with no heaters (my tanks run from 76 to 80 on their own). When I got my first tank set up I had an outbreak of Ich- I have a heater in my "first aid/emergency" fish kit and ran the heater to 82 degrees to speed up treatment in combination with meds. I found I had to do daily water changes because not only did my plants seem not too happy with the temps but it also caused some ammonia issues- likely due to the fact that heat only speeds up decay. But I do bet there are "tropical" plants that like the hotter temps. I'm wondering just thinking about heat dispersement in metal- thinking of a radiator- how there are small "fins" that are more effecient with heat than say a solld piece of metal- wondering if things like red needle leaf are better in hotter water because of smaller leaves.

@Fish Folk do you run heaters and what temps do you keep your tanks at?

Well, not quite as impressive in growth as others but from June 5th to July 3rd this is what I've got (top june, bottom july)...I've defintely grown some algae! 🙂

Yea mine are tiny, not even sure why they are coming off the parent plants they look healthy but too small to shove anywhere. I've just been letting them float.

I find tiny narrow java babies that have escaped the parent plant all the time. Do you let them float until they're big enough to glue or?