CT_
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Everything posted by CT_
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🙂 yeah I did the math and its only a few dollars of electricity for the month I'll need it. I ran an extension cord and joined it in one of those dry boxes made for chaining Christmas lights. I'd been wondering how to fed these to my tank. My cardinals would go nuts (they're vicious!). I didn't try because I was worried about other pathogens, though I just threw my rice fish in the same pond so how worried can I really be?
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Agreed. I'm equally if not more skeptical of seachem's claims about prime beyond its ability to dechlorinate water. I do believe that seachem employs smart people and that they made a good product for its primary use. Beyond that, some of the people writing seachem's website and other copy of theirs are clearly not in sync. There's multiple contradictions and inconsistencies on their website's product's info pages.
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It's mostly this page that gives me the impression that he has a beef: https://aquariumscience.org/index.php/5-5-3-2-3-prime-safe-and-sodium-dithionite/ It has stilted language, some statements I believe to be strawmen and statements I know to be verifiably false. IIRC Somewhere he also dares seachem to sue him for slander if he's actually wrong, and uses the fact that seachem hasn't to prove he's right. IANAL but my understanding is to prove slander they'd have to prove what he said is false and to do that they'd have to reveal "trade secrets", which is probably more important than winning an internet argument to seachem.
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NH4 + is also one proton different so I find it plausible that NH2- is also not toxic to fish. My understanding came from a best guess during a water cooler conversation from a chemist I work with filtered through my thick skull, which is why I'm skeptical of my beliefs.
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Yeah :/. across the whole website there's a lot of cool experiments the guy does but he doesn't add enough information to know exactly what he did or what his results were, just what his conclusions were. He also has a section defending his writing by saying that academic papers are equally vague (not true IMO, though that's subjective I guess) and not reproducable. There is a "reproducabillity crisis" across science right now, especially cancer research (medicine is especially hard, so I don't blame anyone) but academic papers usually still have enough methods that target audience can infer most of what was done.
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I was under the, very possibly mistaken, impression that whatever hydrosulfite salts they have in there took NH3 -> NH2-, at least temporarily, which lowered the total NH3 , NH4+ (ph of course keeping that ratio fixed). Is that plausible?
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I'd be careful with this source. This guy clearly has a beef with sea chem and their prime product specifically. There's lots of interesting stuff there that's food for thought but this guy is vague in a lot of places that make me skeptical too.
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Have you been spying on me?! 😄 I'm in a similar boat. I discovered mosquitos yesterday (i thought i had months before they'd show up!) so I'm racing out to buy some WCMM today, and a threw a 200W heater in my pond to help the transition for my rice fish from indoor to outdoor and give them a bit of extra "summer" heat for spawning since tank spawning didn't work.
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Do white clouds eat mosquito larvae? Also will they play nice with rice fish? My tub has got larvae faster than Iexpected.
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You could consider keeping less floaters. Ie pull more or every week. In my 15g I restrict the floaters to one corner. They'll pull nitrates out at a rate proportional to their numbers.
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Huh. Looks setup okay to me but I'm not an expert on setting these up as I only have one. You could try adding a bit of line to lower the airstone which may help them "gain inertia " before they have to get restricted at the top.
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I think that would have the same effect of making the filter shorter and the uplift tube longer. I suspect there's an underlying issue. Could you take a picture of the problem and how your filter is assembled (maybe one without the sponge so we can see the tube routing etc) If you want to prototype your idea you could wrap that area in saranwrap and see how well it works.
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What Chembob said. except I think if you got an acrylic tube and made it long enough (like a few times longer than it is wide) it would be compliant enough to not stress anything. Especially if you put the tanks in place then glued the tube. Also I bet if your hole isn't a perfect fit the gap filled by the silicone would be compliant enough too. You could test wiggle room before gluing. I say go for it if you want! but maybe put it in the basement incase it all explodes 😛
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I've heard tails from a one legged sea captain wearing an eyepatch (or maybe I just read it on the internet) that unhatched eggs can clog the digestive system of fry and kill them. IDK how true that is though.
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Tests showed 0 nitrogen and 0 phosphate + ferts and healthily plants makes me dubious. I'd double check your tests are working right. Try testing your tap and also testing tap+dilute ferts. Also with 4 otos the diatoms should be gone in a day.
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HA! okay. I was hoping that there was a simple answer like "oh yeah its known that algae needs 5x the phosphate of a plant" or something. oh well. I'll take a peak at literature, maybe I'll get lucky.
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It got to the point where I was dosing of phosphates to keep up my macro levels. I'm now winning the war on algae and i just tested my phosphate which was consistently 0 and now its 1.0. was my algae sinking all that phosphate? I had just assumed it was my floaters.
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Out of curiosity why is that? are they too soft?
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You can store it in the bottom of my fish tank . IIRC stratum is clay based. I think the worst case drying it out is you lock in some extra organics, and need to double check your parameters before putting fish in next time.
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Cory taking on aqua bid?! I personally know I'd love to do a little trading, especially with locals here. I haven't asked in the past because it was against the forum rules.
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I'd judge any filter bought or made on a few things weighted by personal preference. 1) aesthetics (and noise) does it look and sound okay for my goals. 2) filtration. does it move enough water through enough surface area? (and you can break that down into bio/mech/chem filtration if you want) 3) robustness. Will it pump all the water out of your tank onto your floor killing all your fish. how you get there is up to you. quality, effort, cost, are the general tradeoffs.
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It can be all of those or none of those depending on design and execution. Down side is when you curse the guy who made it you're cursing yourself.
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Yeah I'm ultimately not worried about the outdoor temps, and Seattle rarely stays as high in the 60's overnight except for the "heat wave" we get in summer for a week. I'm more worried about the shock going from 75 to 55F over the course of an hour or something. Its 8 fish going into 20-30 gallons so I'm not even too worried about cycling, though the tub has been "setup" for more than a month now with some decaying plant matter inside (sort of by accident and not a ton), so i think its fine.
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Nice 🙂 I'm pretty new to shrimp but word on the street is they get more skilled and can carry more without dropping them with age.
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My rice fish have spent their time indoors unheated at 68 during the winter when I got them and now its 75 indoors and going to be close to 80 today in the seattle suburbs. I want to get them in the tub pond but that water is still 53F. Is there a good way to get them acclimated? or is the temp difference too much? I could use boiling water to bring the pond up to say 60-65. Tonight will bottom out at 50 and then it'll be cloudy and 50-60 in a week, but we've got 5ish days of sun coming up.
