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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Yes. If you don't have anything in the tank right now you can change as much water as you want. Daily, with animals in the tank, 30-50% is best for the water volume change. For the quick start, follow the directions on the bottle. For prime, you'll dose that every time you change water. Secondly, let's verify that your water itself isn't causing some of the test results. Take a sample of water from the sink and test that water. Using an air stone aerate it for 24 hours and test again. It looks like on some of your test strips you're getting some contamination. Here's a video on how to help reduce that. They should be fine right now. Start off with a small dose not a full dose and work your way up to a full dose of easy green. Depending on light, plant selection, etc. Will determine how much you need. Something like anubias I almost always do a small dose, but we'll discuss all that later if you need any help. The water has nitrates, so the plants have something to use for food right now.
  2. nabokovfan87
    Understandable, just measure it and go with the number that you get. measure it 5-10x if you want and take an average if you want to. I'm just saying, it's not laser guided and the dimensions aren't that critical (non-metal parts) so just try to do your best and go with what you get.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Keep in mind both the inner and outer lip will have draft. One might be more apparent than the other, but both will have some sort of a draft angle to it. What you're showing is perfect, measure it just like that. Keep in mind, you're hand measuring a part. It's not a laser scan or something like that and you'll get a model that "works" if you measure as best you can. Yes, the draft angle makes things annoying, but it is there. Try to measure at the bottom of the lip when you can (highest draft angle / thickness) so whatever dimensions you have are at their highest value. I would measure overall as well as any individual dimensions you can get accurately. They both should make sense. Use the overall to guide any confusion though.
  4. nabokovfan87
    I have used it. It's mostly recommended when you're using meds because it is the non-sulfur based dechlorinator, unlike prime. That being said, I use prime day to day and don't have issues even when treating meds. I wouldn't say this buffers KH or does anything long term to have a drastic affect, but that's not something I can prove or test. I just get the feeling that from the amount of KH buffer I am using... the amount of dechlorinator you'd be using doesn't match up. It says it adds electrolytes. I really don't know what that really means when you get down to specifically what is being added. The slime coat additive (aloe) won't harm or mess with purigen. There's a lot of claims here. Obviously it's stating it's doing something to the alkalinity. It literally just might mean the formula uses a certain PH of water. Again, I'm really not sure what that means.
  5. nabokovfan87
    Welcome to the forums. That is definitely a tough situation. I am surprised to hear the shrimp and nerites are doing ok. I have some cupramine but never used it because of my shrimp. From research I have done, I don't know that the med can be fully removed from the tank. If you want to have a "best chance" I would suggest looking at something like heavy metal filters used for reefs. From the one I saw recently it is a membrane filter followed by two types of carbon filters. Running carbon in your tank should be a must for the next little while to do everything you can to remove the med as a minimum. disturb the substrate, considering pulling it to rinse it too if you really have no other solution. Porous rocks, wood, some things like that might absorb the med and leech it long term. I don't know if the silicone seals would absorb it, but that's another consideration. Best of luck with it. Potentially email the company and see what they say as well? https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116020503-Cuprisorb-100ml/dp/B0002A5VWK
  6. nabokovfan87
    Does the canister have a pre-filter sponge?
  7. nabokovfan87
    Yes. When the jaws don't fit use the depth gauge. If you need to do something like put a flat piece against an edge, that would give you the ability to use the depth gauge as opposed to the jaws to find your dimension. Another good example measuring the feature on this block
  8. nabokovfan87
    do you have a ladder you can set the bucket on?
  9. nabokovfan87
    Just finished moving the new fry to the breeder box. I definitely need a new turkey baster that works better. I recorded a video. Had two files and deleted the good one instead of the bad one, which sucks because I was going to count how many I had. Definitely "enough" and I should have a good size herd of corydoras. Beautiful photo!
  10. nabokovfan87
    Looks more like cysts than ich. Thoughts anyone? @Colu @Minanoras is this at all similar to what you've seen with your swordtails and their issues? It doesn't sound like what you described to me. Trying to tag some that might be able to help, sorry for the weird formatting, mobile issues with the forum software. @Odd Duck
  11. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, that's ich. Best of luck. Temp, salt, ich-x is the best way to fight it. Yes it can move pretty quickly.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Coloration is really pale. I would start by stopping feeding, add an air stone, and then wait for further review by other forum members. If you can, trying to take some more photos with more light on the fish directly. If you have a breeder box or something that would help the fish stay at the surface of the water and be able to rest if possible. What is the temp of the tank? As far as feeding, what foods are you feeding, and what sort of schedule?
  13. nabokovfan87
    Probably will release in a few days. I say 24-48 hours is my guess! Question, We were trying to figure out how or why WCs were causing issues. I saw someone using an actual drip input for their tank controlled by drops per second type of thing. I don't think you have an overflow, but do you think having a bucket slowly drip in new water would do the trick?
  14. nabokovfan87
    Sorry. Standards just means either a documented or industry accepted practice. In the US we use 1/8, 1/16th of an inch increments for a lot of measurements. In the EU, I assume things are based on 10's, but I don't know for certain. I haven't seen a ton of EU / Metric drawings. I apologize it's confusing. It's difficult to find the paperwork on my side, but I'll try tomorrow and use a .co.uk address and see what I can find. A lot of the results I was getting was transitioning US to EU units and how to do that. Did you see the bit about using the depth gauge to get that last measurement you needed?
  15. nabokovfan87
    Good choice. I would drop a little bit of food and see what you see. Obviously a very very small amount. You never know. Some corydoras have no / very small yolks.
  16. nabokovfan87
    For metric, I would assume the standards would be 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, etc. I can't say with certainty, but that's where I would start https://www.gsa.gov/cdnstatic/Metric_Design_Guide_PQ_-_260.pdf Check the section under mechanical and see if that helps at all.
  17. nabokovfan87
    So there is some confusion here, but not your fault. The part you have is injection molded which means there is a draft on the sides to release the part from the tool. The dimension at the Top or Middle is what I would use (or just pick a value you want to use that makes sense (measurement is slightly below a std. value, I would use the std value). If you want to model the draft on the part this would be how you do it... Remember, everything is off a centerline. So the CL here is the middle of the lip. you have the width at the top, width at the bottom, and your height. Draw those lines, then you just connect them. Most 3d programs will have a tool for adding draft. Normally you'd leave it as a standard flat design and then add the draft afterwards once the model is "done". This also makes it easier to edit long term. Second dimension, yes there is a radius on the corner there, but you should be able to measure it. The difference in value is likely just due to how tight you're pushing the calipers. either dimension will suffice. You're measuring plastic, so there is some deflection unfortunately. On your third dimension, you'd want to use the depth gauge (the end of the caliper)
  18. nabokovfan87
    Looks great. Really nice little terra cotta pots in the tank 🙂
  19. nabokovfan87
    Never thought I'd see that and I'm impressed you were able to capture it. Very nicely done. Best of luck with your new fry!
  20. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for your losses 😞
  21. nabokovfan87
    No cartridges on this filter by default. And yes, bypass at default is there. No rails to hold cartridges in place either. I think marineland might have cartridges like that but id have to check.
  22. nabokovfan87
    You should be able to put something in the cavity like you had, use the depth gauge and then measure it here right after the latch so the latch is out of the way.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I updated the post, be sure to take a look. The dark blue line measurement gives you a basis. Everything for drawings is usually centered along your centerline. The part itself is symmetrical. So that blue line gives you a center on the part that you can use to base all of your other dimensions. Offset is a command in drawing programs. So whether it's from your center, from an edge, whatever that is, you can "offset" to get a line parallel at a certain distance. Yes, outside meaning the outside edge on the outside face of the lid. (the outer part of the lip of the lid. Not the latch, but the actual lid itself.
  24. nabokovfan87
    On the calipers you can flip them over and measure the inside of surfaces a lot easier. So what you would do is.... 1. Measure the inside of the lid cavity (inside surface, dark blue line) 2. Measure the thickness of the first lip (red lines) 3. Measure the inside of the channel (light blue lines) 4. Measure the outside dimension of the channel (gives you outside edge, offset from inside edge) 5. Verify the thickness of the second lip (outside lip) You also can use the end of the calipers to measure depth. when measuring the depth that you were having issues with, use it along this red line here: Keep in mind, and it's a lot easier to show you in person or talk through it vs. text. But you know the height, thickness, etc. of that inner lip. That would be easiest to get all your other dimensions by using the offset commends. Measure a dimension, then offset it from that face. So for the "outer lip" the one you're having issues with. I would measure the inner lip first and sketch that out. Measure the height and then offset the thickness of the lid. So now you have an inner horizontal edge as well as the outer horizontal edge. You have a vertical edge and a height. like this: The measurements you don't know is the depth (you can easily measure it) or the thickness of that leftmost (outer) lip. So you measure the depth, you have an idea of what all of the dimensions are except for that outer thickness. This is where method comes into play. It's likely an injection molded part. Thicknesses for everything you're seeing should be fairly consistent. Using the corner you might be able to get that thickness or you can take a flat edge and set it against the surface and measure the thickness that way also. red line = "something flat" that you put into the cavity to measure against.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Preventatively there is a method to treat for the worms. (both meds) But I recommend doing this following or after treating with the med trio. If you plant to do this method, I would recommend holding off on paracleanse until you do this treatment. It does mean a longer QT, but for anything where you're treating internal parasites you want to do so multiple times. Originally from @Odd Duck Day 1: Siphon+water change, clean the substrate, black out the tank for 24 hours, dose in Expel-P Day 2: Siphon + WC, clean the substrate for worms, dose in paracleanse (follow the directions on the box for full treatment) Note: adding Aquarium salt here is also beneficial. Day 3-6: finish up paracleanse treatmen (Siphon+WC on day 6) Day 7: rest. Repeat this for 2 treatments, 3 minimum if you see any worms. Odd Duck recommended up to 6 weeks for a severe case. Normally you're going to want to treat for one week, rest, then continue another round of treatment.
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