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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Some of that stuff might be in rendering tools. In AutoCAD for instance, you design your "set" whatever that is, then you go into render and you have lighting engines as well as different tools used to add items into that render. They would show up as dots, but would pull from a rasterized image that is in the shape of a plant. Option 2, you model the plant. https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2020/ENU/AutoCAD-Core/files/GUID-B3071AE7-76BB-436C-9BAE-CC54CFBD4F96-htm.html https://www.autodesk.com/certification/learn/module/introduction-to-rendering?us_oa=akn-us&us_si=9627d270-139d-472b-9dc1-e00dd28c1352&us_st=render
  2. nabokovfan87
    She's been with me for.... Feels like a decade but probably slightly less. I've seen her actually take a chunk out of food less than 5 times. Think of her like a giant oto or giant amano shrimp. She's a grazer. That's the way their mouth is designed, pointed down, focus on aufwuchs and is in the same family as SAE or barbs. She tends to surf the glass and graze on wood and glass and substrate. She's usually doing good when it's repashy or frozen food time and she just gets a good healthy bit of food. (Usually puts her in a good mood) I feed her omnivore type of died focused on spirulina and brine shrimp cubes. And yes. She is 1000% nocturnal. Doesn't like lights. Always active after they go dim or when they first pop on she does laps before going to sleep. If I put a pleco cave in there or a cichlid cave she'd be happy as can be. Her body was too big for my biggest cave so I opted to remove them so she didn't tear herself up on the sides. She stuffs her head in there, even upside down or sideways to fit.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Corvus has a ton of great videos on technique.
  4. nabokovfan87
    It's likely going to take a few rounds of meds. I would start another one.
  5. nabokovfan87
    I would use ID of 12mm and OD of 16mm Or ID of 5/8" OD of 1/2"
  6. nabokovfan87
    Good point @Odd Duck for a lot of mold on houseplants they spray them with peroxide to rid it of mold. Totally slipped my mind. Finally having my morning coffee.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Very likely already there. My logic and my question being that if you're able to run batches, let's say you have a ton of tanks or something and need 100G of water. If you were able to run 50-75G of water in a batch, then have a containment for it to be filtered, buffered, aerated, and stabilized, then longer term it would give you a much easier time to review and control parameters. Something like KH/GH or TDS indicate "things in the water" but not specific about what actually is in the water. You're in a similar situation to me where the water is just not great. You might have high values of one thing for 3 months, then it changes, or when it rains you have another swing in parameters. Specifically membrane filters might help as well as carbon to give you the ability to try to remove peaks from whatever is headed your way from the tap. You clearly already have that side handled! But being able to condition water ahead of time, which you're doing, for all of your tanks might help a lot with your parameter swings. In my case, I drain out the tank and count the number of buckets I change. Per bucket I add a certain amount of my buffer. Then for each tank I slightly overdose prime (heavy metals + Chloramines) and then I dose in iron and my ferts. It seems like a lot, but the setup I have, I can probably dose all of those items in the time it takes one bucket to fill up from the sink. Not much, but just a list of things. Let's expand and say I needed to add a scoop of shrimp salts, or a scoop of epsom salts for magnesium deficiencies in plants. It's always going to seem like a lot, but it really, really isn't. My concern is always that I am adding in water and the fish (and shrimp) will have issues while things mix up. I do tend to have higher flow and good circulation for this reason! I'm just thinking for having to buffer a lot of tanks, I wish I had one of those 50G water totes or something... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/liquid-storage-tank-65-gal
  8. nabokovfan87
    You just won one order of plants from the Co-Op. Be real, what would you get, how much, and if you feel like it.... why? I am currently watching a video of a massive plant order (yep, donated for a YT video) and all I can think is of some hobbyist who could never have that opportunity, what they would do with a "free order". Go for it, let's have some fun!
  9. nabokovfan87
    It's a common sign of internal worms. Try treatment with paracleanse first. You'll need 3 full treatments. Make sure you do a good siphon after each treatment during each W/C as indicated on the directions.
  10. nabokovfan87
    Caribsea crystal river.
  11. nabokovfan87
    How many do you have now, 10+?
  12. nabokovfan87
    Is it cyanobacteria or mold? Photos might help us understand what's going on. I don't think most molds grow underwater, but I could totally be wrong. I've seen stuff like that on the trim, HoB, or lid before. Just remove it and clean things off.
  13. nabokovfan87
    Are you able to setup a holding tank to condition water beforehand? Run it through a carbon block and then store 50-150 gallons or something? I think you have the filter, but maybe not the holding tank?
  14. nabokovfan87
    Depends more on flow than anything. Too tough for them to get to the top and that causes issues, but having a tall tank is generally fine. I've had fry in 29G, 55G, and 75G without issues. 12-18 inches. Both shrimp and Corys want space (front to back, left to right). Imagine a 40B as an ideal for both or something like a 75G. It's an interesting dilemma, not sure I really understand. Soil, or a lot of high organics in the soil would cause PH issues. I wouldn't bring corydoras too high, so there is a balance there.
  15. nabokovfan87
    You can just setup the tank and slowly acclimate them over a few hours. Days even. Just drips over a very long period. Beyond that. Setup the new tank, every day take a bit of water and add it to the old tank. Slowly transition them over an extended period.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Look online for an O ring kit. Probably available at the hardware store too. Just measure the diameter and the thickness of the material and you should be able to replace it. Ziss is a Korean company I believe. Not many, if any, replacement parts available.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Hate when that happens.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I won't spoil the result but needless to say, I've spent a lot of time adjusting this thing. 😂 I went ahead and sorted through, removing about 20% and then brought everything back. That's the second cut in the video. I also adjusted the dial down from full power, down one notch" so people can see what that looks like. As always, sorry for the lighting and the camera issues. After the adjustments yesterday upon discovering the issue.... A. Adjusted the bag so the media was flat / as low as possible B. Verified flow C. Checked both twice. When I went back today you can see the bypass had changed. Why? No idea, on / off cycle during feeding maybe, but nothing else had changed. Today we see the bypass at the top of the chute and then a little bit by the back right corner (expected). It usually takes about 30-45 minutes for the filter to fully adapt to any changes, so I'll go ahead and check it again here shortly after removing some of the media. Keep in mind, this bag had extra media from the tidal 35 I tore down. Not really a lot, but it goes to show you how ridiculous the bag size is given that you can't really pack it full. The media in the filter itself, you can't really pack it full. Simply put, too much displacement leads to bypass and if you're trying to avoid bypass, that's a contributing factor. I'll let it run a bit more until we see the indicator pop up again. EDIT: WELL.... it's already halfway up. It's basically just water around the basket (not bypass). I'll keep an eye on it. Very annoying, and maybe there is a way I can mod the indicator. 🤔
  19. nabokovfan87
    I just got this picture of some health nut with brittle bones makes a smoothy with their strawberry flavored rock powder to go with their kale. LOL. Makes ya wonder sometimes.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Can you share a photo of what you have vs. what you'd want it to look like?
  21. nabokovfan87
    has definitely crossed my mind. As well as finding some O rings that would just fit around it... Or a bead of silicone at the top just for testing purposes. It's one of those choices I have to mull over for the "is it worth it" category. If we accept 5-10% bypass for full flow, after a week, maybe that's ok. I need to dive into what exactly, specifically is causing the weirdness. I think right now crushing the sponge is a big determining factor as well as porosity. I have what I have on hand, but there are ways we can adapt. When I take things apart I'll show you a side by side of the foams, one has been running for ~2 years or so and the other is brand new. Major differences.
  22. nabokovfan87
    In the substrate was there a lot of detritus. What are your nitrates and light at?
  23. nabokovfan87
    Correct. Based on how "adjusted down" the pump is determines that. Often, if you clean the pump and it's going full flow, you just have bypass. All the holes normally there that hide it are plugged and so it has nowhere to go but the outside. If I had a rubber gasket around the basket or a very tight fit that would help a lot to stop the.... "path of least resistance" and force the water through the media. Let's say at go, 95% of the water goes through the sponge, then over a few days we see this change... Day 0: 95% through the media Day 1: 90% through the media Day 2: 80% through the media Day 3: 70% through the media etc.... If we adjust the pump down by 20% the hope is: Day 0: 100% through the media Day 1: 100% through the media Day 2: 95% through the media Day 3: 90% through the media etc..... I have come to terms there are some issues I am just not going to resolve, but the question now is what is worth fixing (solved that) and what is the result (solved that). Now we are at the third part of that equation, trying to figure out what things can be done to tune everything we've worked on to this point. As an aside.... On the Tidal 55, 75, 110 you have no choice but to plug the skimmer, fix the intake, fix the basket, etc. On the Tidal 35 you literally do not have that option due to the way it's designed. BUT, because of the pump on the 35 being slightly less crazy, the basket fitting better, and the cutouts being removed or smaller, you actually can get pretty optimal performance by replacing only foams. It's part of what I am anxiously waiting to hear what @TeeJay thinks when he has had a month (or a few) running the new foams to see if he notices a big improvement or nothing at all. Things like how chunky is the water, how slimy is the pump, how well does the prefilter work, all play a role here in how long the bypass is slowed down. Hopefully we can sort that out, but for now there is a lot of trial an error testing. In terms of pump flow vs. design application in the real world, this is what you're looking at. My 35 I've ran on a 10G as well as a 20G. On the 55 I've ran that on a 20, 29, 55, and it didn't fit on the 75G (never had a 40B). On the 75 I've ran that on a 29, 55, 75. Never had a 110. When I ran my 75, I ended up with 2x 75G and I also tried the Aquaclear 110, but did not prefer having 1 HoB.
  24. nabokovfan87
    Definitely possible. That's what happened to me. You can then spot treat the wood to remove algae there. Plants have to grow and catch up, essentially, once you get enough of the plants in there to outcompete and then everything is balanced, then you'll see the algae back off.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Try to glue some on a rock and see how that does for you. How they interact with it. 🙂 I usually cut it about 1/8-1/4" long and just let it grow. Fuzzy puppy bath time photos from a year ago. 😂 Saw It when I was looking for an old tank shot for that new years thread. Had to share!
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