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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. Bacteria is in the filter. Bacteria will be strongest where you have the most oxygenation and flow. I switch substrates a lot and I don't bat an eye at doing it. 1. Fish go into a bucket (or buckets) and I add an air stone and a lid with tank water. 1b. Hardscape and plants go into a bucket so they don't get damaged. 2. Siphon as much as you can while you drain the tank down as far as you can. Leave a little bit of water if you're scooping out sand. 3. Scoop out the substrate into a bucket using a cup, net, or wet-dry vac. 4. Clean off the glass and do whatever you need before you reverse things. 5. Add in your new, rinsed substrate in whatever layers you want to. Add a little bit of water to get it wet. 6. Replant while the tank is filling up, get the hardscape back in there. 7. Let it run for a little bit to clear any cloudiness and initial gunk. Usually 30-60 minutes. 8. Add the fish back in. It is very rare for them to release the toxin. The spines only really come into play when they are under intense stress (i.e. being eaten) Corydoras generally will scatter and swim away before they do anything. People who recommend to release the toxin prior to shipping will put them into a bag and shake it violently to scare them. Needless to say, I don't recommend that and try to just reduce stress. Corydoras are great fish. You can rinse and dry the old substrate to reuse it if that is something you'd want to do as well. When you put the fish in the buckets before you do all the work, I put them to the side somewhere quiet so they don't get spooked. It helps reduce stress and they can just relax.
  2. If you haven't, be sure to check out pecktec. He makes most of his tanks using simple plants and they often look like yours above. The coffeefolia you have is nice, would work well in the background. I would opt for something small that can easily be trimmed. Nana might still be too large, but either nana or nana petite would be my choice for the background. It would look more like a wall of plant vines on the tank. You could also take the moss and make a moss wall across the back or side of the tank. It really depends. Pulling plants will impact the way the tank is handling nitrates and some other nutrients. Depending on how long and how much of the plants are removed will determine impact. You could always start with a trim and go from there. Trim the plants, give them a few days or a week and give the tank time to adjust.
  3. The type I have likes strong flow. Cory had the same stuff show up in his 800G right across the output flow path.
  4. I don't see the shrimp smiling... That's the face of a shrimp hoping it gets some scraps. Looks perfect. Nicely done. I enjoy those little shrimp things. It's the same stuff I have all my pleco caves made from. Heck, you could put the little cubes inside the big house and that would give them a place where the snails and the Snoopy can't get to them. It'll be interesting to see how the interaction between all 3 develops and where the shrimplets end up hiding.
  5. She definitely feels she can hide well. Under the pink/red LEDs it glows a bit and is easy to see. It's a very intense orange in person. Red-orange is probably the right term for it. She sort of glides very slowly over things, prowling like a tiger in the canopy in the jungle. Then she darts and she is fast! One little flick of the tail and she goes across the whole tank.
  6. Reminds me of trying to wrestle an alligator or something. This is her, "I was trying to sleep Pappa and they came into my house" face
  7. Oh I thought you were noticing something, that's all. 😩 There is a thing called "pond foams" from the EU that comes in a pack with sets. It's a blue, black, green one on Amazon. I actually would point you to swiss tropicals foam just because the Amazon route, the stuff I have works extremely well, but it's slightly not thick enough. .85" instead of 1" thick type of thing. On swiss you can get a good size for whatever you need in whatever style you want. For once in a while use, polyfil is absolutely fine.
  8. Not sure which one but it was either one of his recent updates like this style where he's walking around the fishroom or it was one of the old vlog style ones. His old one with the lasers he just colony bred them.
  9. Yes correct. I usually use one big towel for the back and one for the front and it ends up covering. Some people use foil, there's a lot of ways. Sounds good. What do you mean "new media filters to change out" are you referring to the one use cartridges?
  10. Looks like Graeme has a project that might be helpful for you:
  11. moving at least 3 males should work well for you. I moved 2 and got away with it. 3 was much easier for them to pester each other instead of just one on one combat all day. The amount of swordtail male shimmy dancing all day long is ridiculous. 😂 What is your take and view on backgrounds for the tank. Do you prefer to black it out or opaque or leave it open as it is currently?
  12. All I can see is that corydoras. Is there something else going on here!? Deffo push that light as FWD as you can on the tank. It lights the fish better, but will stop the crazy algae on the javas and focus light on the swords. win-win-win
  13. @Streetwise or @Guppysnail maybe this should be in general and help get eyes on it? Whenever I work on a betta tank I usually put them into a container to the side to relax. It's very easy and lowers the stress for them. Having a dedicated plastic container for the fish, a jar, or something that you can use will be helpful I think. You might need a lid, but possibly ok without one! I did something similar in my tank with the artificial decorations. I had one on the left side of the tank and one on the right side of the tank. The one on the left was a wood shaped piece that was taller and the one on the right was a series of rock caves that was very tall. Eventually I removed both of those and replaced it with a ship that fit the tank better, but also gave room around the tank for fish to swim a bit easier. I would go with whatever fills the tank nicely in your opinion. I like both options. For the castle you'd want to be careful of the artificial plants on the side. They can sometimes be sharp and tear fins. With this piece in the tank, is their room in the front and the back of the tank?
  14. Based on a study I read about critters and neo shrimp... I would toss in bottom scratcher and super green as 2 more options. There is also the red one and spawn and grow. One for color, the other because it's similar to what is in a lot of shrimp foods. My corydoras went ballistic when I fed them bottom scratcher for the first time. It was a new type of protein for them. Further feedings they were more calm.
  15. Those eyes, that pattern across the body. I cannot imagine seeing these in person, but I'm excited to see these in future. Wonderful setup. Please breed some!
  16. The fish looks great, the tank looks wonderful as well! I'm excited to see how things develop for you and your son.
  17. Filter is tough.... What is planned to go into the tank?
  18. Hopefully you enjoy it! You have some nice choices in there for mosses that you've chosen.
  19. My gut tells me that it won't be an issue. You can rinse the sand well to remove as much of any of that liquid as well. The organisms that colonize saltwater are different than freshwater and would simply not survive without the salinity. The other thing to keep in mind is that you're likely going to have very high PH in that tank due to the coral in the substrate, if it is there. For your use case, I wouldn't be worried too much, but you may need to have a bit longer cycling time or extra rinse time for that substrate. Rinse it, toss it in a bucket with a lid for a bit, even dry it out, and then go from there perhaps is the best route.
  20. The first thing you would want to do is test and to monitor what is really going on in the tank. My advice would be daily testing and report back your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, PH, and KH. All of those parameters can swing heavily based on bioload and go into how the tank itself will cycle. During any of the days of daily testing, if you see any ammonia or nitrite you'd want to do a 30-50% water change on the tank. Repeat this until the tank is ultimately cycled. Aquarium coop also has a water change guide that can be helpful, I'll link that below. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/water-changes ......now, back to your questions at hand. 1. A sudden increase in bioload can be managed using the above advice and the above steps mentioned by everyone. If you run into issues it could be an indication of filtration being incorrectly setup. The real key there is that filtration matters and how it's setup matters. If you would like to review it, please feel free to post details for your tank and how it's setup. Having the tank setup for a long time is promising. 2. In some cases you can remove the attacking fish for a few days and let them "cool off". I have had this work to success in my case. Another method is to reset the boundaries in the tank. To do this you'd want to move around the hardscape and try to create new places for the fish to call their own. Adding things, removing things, trimming plants, all of those can be done to reset the boundaries.
  21. @RennjiDK Looks very well done, nice work! A tip from Mr. Amano regarding the Moss and how to initially plant it. This will help encourage growth and give it a more natural look.
  22. I vote it's at least 500 amano eggs right there. 😂 ^^ Gotta love it when the forum robot scrolls you to some weird old post for no reason. Oh whales. It looks like bits of marimo moss balls or something, is that what the carpet plant is?
  23. Well shoot. I though you got the fancy pro series penguin!
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